Sharks have been on the planet for 450 MILLION years, which is more than all of the items below ranked from “least to most insane” (when the follow items first appeared)…

1. Pangea – 200 million years ago
2. South Pole ice cap – 35 million years ago
3. North Star – 70 million years ago
4. Dinosaurs – 250 million years ago
5. Saturn’s Rings – 10-100 million years ago
6. Atlantic Ocean – 180-200 million years ago
7. Mount Everest – 55 million years ago
8. Flowers – 300 million years ago
9. Trees – 390 million years ago

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We love a villa pool just for a handy dip to cool off from the tropical heat. Sometimes we will linger in the pool with a drink. So a modest sized plunge pool is just sufficient and this is the format of most villa pools. But if you enjoy a proper swim with maybe even some morning laps (without having to get to and from resort pool and then dodge all the other swimmers cavorting in it), then .Here has the longest villa pools in the Maldives. They are so long, they can fit at the front of the villa, but instead have to run along it side (see photo below).

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This is the first year since COVID that we have not visited the Maldives in July. One might think that now would be a more opportune time than ever. The Maldives Complete site is on track to hit 3 million visitors this year. The destination just keeps adding new properties and features.

But a number of considerations have put us off:

• REEF DECLINE – It used to be that the accessibly shallow coral reefs were one of the main attractions of the Maldives. The reef decline has not only continued pretty much unabated to where “live” areas are more the exception (or even rarity) rather than the rule. This started happening years ago, but we consoled ourselves that the other marine life was still abundant and we enjoyed the fish soup and other favourite creatures. But as any ecologist will tell you, the coral is the foundation to the reef ecosystem and in recent years we have witnessed a palpable decline in marine life making the Maldives no longer the best snorkeling in the world which was one of our greatest joys visiting there.
• WEATHER VOLTAILITY – Also due to the climate change, the weather has just become that much more volatile. While peak times of February had uninterrupted clear blue skies and placid waters, July was still delightful with its scattered clouds, gentle sea breezes and occasional passing shower. But these days, February gets the July weather of old, and July weather is getting more and more risky more frequent and more intense actual storms.
• MULTINATIONAL INVASION – But the main reason for our demurring was the invasion of international luxury brand properties. I do understand the country wanting to get the most revenue per square hectare that it can out of its limited above-water land mass. And I appreciate the splurging of a fine luxury experience as much as the next person. But the problem is that in more cases than not what is being introduced is “faux luxury”. As Ryan of the Ryan Experience explains in “My #1 Problem With Luxury Hotels”.

But the problem extends far beyond just high-end hotels in the Maldives. This trend is just a subset of the megatrend, so well-articulated by Cory Doctorow, I see everywhere – the “Enshittification of Everything”. Especially acute when the vulture capitalists of private equity get involved to apply their mastery of value extraction to their investment. The business model is to invest in the veneer (the brand plus the wrapping) and not the substance (the underlying product or operations), the frosting not the cake (as exemplified by OTT pastry producers like Lola’s Cupcakes), the sizzle not the steak.

True luxury is almost always…simple (for a brilliant portrayal of true culinary luxury, check out this scene from “The Hundred Foot Journey”). Its quality has no need for adornment. The Krispy Kreme Original Glazed (hot of the press), not the Chocolate Chip Banana Bread donut from Comfortland. A striking example in the restaurant establishment is London’s famed Ivy Restaurant. Renowned for lending a master chef’s hand to traditional British comfort food and an elegant surrounding. Private equity bought that name and then rolled out a chain of mass- produced eateries with extravagant décor curiously much more opulent than the original ever was or ever needed to be. The new Ivy outlet now flaunt the visual clues that you must be somewhere fancy (so your nan feels like she is actually being taken to a special place for her birthday lunch), but the food is bland fare that is mass-produced in a central facility and reheated on site. The look is stunning, but you are paying top dollar for mediocre pub grub.

A Maldives property is becoming as de riguer as a New Bond Street shopfront for every luxury brand in the world, whether they have any hospitality operation or not. Hire in self-absorbed fancy designers who concoct visually dramatic spaces with very little understanding of optimising the Maldives experience. Or just cookie-cutter construction out of a corporate style guide. And for many of the undiscerning affluent who are drawn more to the appearance of luxury than appreciating true luxury, this works just fine. A few well-positioned selfies for their Instagram, a tick off their bucket list and off to the next exotic locale never to return.

Nearly gone are the (a) charming home-grown properties developed and run by Maldivians (Oaga and Syam are rare exceptions to this trend representing a bold statement in guest experience by a new generation of Maldivians), and (b) passion projects (like Soneva, Velaa, Amilla Fushi under the Kruse’s) that were more labors-of-love than mercenary tourist traps.

An integral ingredient to the faux luxury veneer are the shill endorsements by Instagram influencers, celebrity junkets and industry “awards”. In the interest of full disclosure, I have gotten quite a few courtesy comps and freebies from properties welcoming me to their property. But there is no compromise on the integrity of my judgement, primarily because my content doesn’t judge. I go there to get material and data for the database (resort categorize me as a “content creator”, not an “influencer”). I don’t lavish praise. I identify aspects which I sincerely feel are the Best (or “only”) of the Maldives in the “Best of the Maldives” series (and I have to disenchant a fair number of marketing managers that I have seen their extra special feature in other places or that I have seen it better).

The Maldives is still one of those rare places on Earth where you don’t just feel like you are on a special place on the planet, but that you are on a different planet altogether (other examples include Iceland, the Grand Canyon). It’s distinctive topology with the typically tranquil waters around it occupying that space just above and just below the water give it a special intimacy with the ocean rarely found. We look forward to find more truly inspired properties amidst the growing numbers of corporate confections littering the seascape.

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You arrive in an exotic country and then transfer to a small turboprop plane to traverse an expanse of water with a final short ferrying to your resort island. There you are welcomed with a cool towel and a refreshing drink before checking into your villa overlooking the water. Where are you? The Maldives? No, Xugana, in the Okavango Delta of Botwana. The “Maldives” of Africa.

Sometimes people are looking for the Maldives, but just not the Maldives. Maybe the distance is too far for them. Or there is some logistical or budgetary obstacle. I’ve researched a number of possibilities in “Maldives Methadone”, and “Like the Maldives Only Taller”. I even personally visited one of the candidates, Ray Caye in Belize – “Maldives of the Americas”.

A number of agents might point to a couple of islands off the Zanzibar coast (eg. Bawe Island) as the “Maldives of Africa”. But these are more “Indian Ocean” than “Africa”. If you want the true African aesthetic and vibe, Okavango Delta fits the bill better in which the Xugana safari camp is an exemplar.

• ISOLATION – Per the introductory paragraph, Xugana is off-the-beaten path. You take a long-haul to a major airport in the region with a connecting flight to Maun, Botswana followed by a puddle-jumper flight to the Delta followed by a boat transfer to the property. The result of which leads to a property set in what seems like the middle of nowhere with no sign of civilization for as far as the eye can see (less true of the Maldives resorts near local islands, but a cherished characteristic of all the others).
• PREMIUM DESTINATION – The quality of the landscape combined with the logistical challenges of supporting the remote properties (see above) make both premium destinations with luxury quality properties at about $1000/night.
• WATER – This is, of course, what it is both places are all about. Both destinations are defined by water. There is more water than land. All of the excursions take you to various “islands” (see photo above and directly below).
• ELEVATION – Of the land that does exist, neither of the destinations have any elevation over a couple of metres making for an intimate connection between water and land. The land exists in that space right at the edge of the tranquil lagoon waters. And the lagoons’ own shallow depths make for distinctive aquatic life that thrive in the shallows. In the Maldives, the lots of the wildlife linger in the shallows of the lagoons just under the surface; in the Delta, lots of the wildlife linger in the shallows as well just above the surface as waders or eyes peeking out (see photos below)
• DIGESTIVE TERRAFORMING. And the land that it there owes much to the digestive processes of a few residents. The sands of the islands are famously the by-product of parrot fish and other coral munchers grinding down coral (to get to tasty polyps inside) and excreting the powdery calcium carbonate exo-skeleton, also known as the white sands that make up the beaches and sand bars of the area. Similarly, large sections of the Delta landscape is the by-product of termites digesting trees and using the nutrients to make gigantic mounds which are the only places where the land rises significantly higher above the water level (see photo below)
• WILDLIFE – Maldives wildlife is more aquatic with some on land; Okavango is more land with some aquatic (hippos, crocodiles, otters). I’ve already written about the “Snorkeling Big 5” which riffed off the notion of the “Big 5” from African Safari’s. I would say that one could add the variant of the “Water Big 5” for which I would propose Hippo, Crocodile, Fish Eagle, Elephant, and Water Buffalo (the latter two already in the original “big 5”).
• SUSTAINABILITY FOCUS – Both the Maldivian and Botswanan governments have invested in significant sustainability initiatives as their appeal rests entirely on the vibrancy and health of its nature and environment.
• AESTHETIC – A popular design aesthetic is rustic chic. Roughhewn timers and thatched roofs to provide that indigenous vibe.

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When I first started visiting the Maldives, a friend advised that I look for a resort with a “house reef”. This is where lots of coral has grown attracting marine life for great snorkeling. Over time, we learning how to scuba dive and shipwrecks (plentiful in this land of lurking shallow reefs) were a highlight to visit. Now . Siyam World has introduced (yes, ‘introduced’) the Maldives’ first ‘house shipwreck’. In the desolate sandy lagoon near the island, they have sunk a retired ship to create a massive habitat for all sorts of marine life as well as a new dive site that is as captivating as it is convenient.

It was launched last week as the “Wreck to Reef” event.

• “The story began in 2021 when Sun Siyam Group Founder and Chairman, Hon. Ahmed Siyam Mohamed, shared a vision of creating something truly meaningful beneath the waters of Noonu Atoll, a dive experience that would not only attract visitors but also contribute to the future of the marine environment. What followed was an ambitious journey to source, prepare, and scuttle a vessel that could serve as both a world-class dive site and the foundation for a future reef ecosystem. After being located in Lhaviyani Atoll, carefully cleaned and prepared near Malé, and following government approval, the vessel was transported to Noonu Atoll and scuttled within Siyam World’s territorial waters in October 2024…The bow points dramatically towards the reef at 10 metres while the stern descends to 24 metres, creating an exciting and accessible dive for certified divers…Already recorded around the wreck are guitar sharks, blacktip reef sharks, nurse sharks, lemon sharks, grey reef sharks, Napoleon wrasse, eagle rays, stingrays, turtles, moray eels, octopus, groupers, snappers, boxfish, batfish, angelfish, nudibranchs, and large schools of jackfish. Soft and hard corals have also begun colonising the steel structure, signalling the start of its transformation into a thriving underwater ecosystem.”

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Over a decade ago, one of my “Haven’t Seen Yets” was using 3D printing technology to create homes for one of the ocean’s creatures – hermit crabs. Anantara Dhigu has gone one better to use the innovative approach to create a home for ALL creatures – “Anantara Dhigu Maldives Resort Partners with rrreefs on an Innovative 3D-Printed Clay Reef Restoration Project”

• “Anantara Dhigu Maldives Resort has placed 13 flower-shaped reef structures in its surrounding lagoon, produced by reef restoration company rrreefs using 3D printed fired terracotta clay, steel reinforcement, and a minimal concrete component for structural integrity. The installation, named Theyra Maa — meaning “13 Flowers” in Dhivehi — was developed by a team that included Co-Founder Josephine Graf, Head of Production Mauro Bischoff, and Marine Ecologist Dr. Julia Spaet, alongside Dr. Gerrit Nanninga, a Research Fellow in the Department of Earth and Environmental Sciences at Ludwig Maximilian University of Munich. Bischoff described the material and geometric rationale behind the structures: “We designed the Theyra Maa reef structures using durable and sustainable materials, with fired terracotta clay as the primary component, complemented by steel and a minimal amount of concrete to ensure structural integrity.”

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I love maps in general, especially oldie-worldie maps. And there are few places on the planet where maps were vital in the Old World than the Maldives which formed a minefield of reefs across the maritime East-West trade route. “The VOC’s mapping of the Maldives: navigation, shipwrecks, and cartography in the heart of the Indian Ocean” by Ruud Stelten and Wendy Van Duivenvoorde not only features a trove of maps (some featured here), but also provides an excellent account of the history of mapping this corner of the world:

• “Throughout the VOC’s existence, its ships experienced numerous mishaps in the Maldivian islands, whereby vessels were wrecked, sailors died, and trade goods were lost. As a result, the Company made various efforts to chart the archipelago in order to better understand its physical layout and safely navigate its treacherous waters. This has resulted in a rich cartographic record, which, albeit limited in size, provides fascinating insights into the VOC’s development of knowledge of the Maldivian islands. Until now, however, it has been unclear how these charts came into existence, who made them and why, how the Dutch navigated the Maldivian waters, what dangers the islands presented, how many Dutch ships wrecked here, and how this influenced the VOC’s decision making on its sailing routes. This article aims to address these issues by exploring the role the Maldivian archipelago played in the VOC’s shipping network. By investigating how the Dutch came to understand the geography of the Maldives and how to map it, this study aims to provide an understanding of how the archipelago influenced navigation, shipping and commerce, and the establishment of shipping lanes. Furthermore, this study will examine how the archipelago’s dangers were mitigated, and what happened when ships did fall victim to its treacherous reefs.”

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Everything old is new again. Especially at The Barefoot’s Heritage Villas where the property has crafted well-appointed luxury villas in truly Maldivian style. Many resorts claim to be “authentic”, but they are often at best “Maldivian inspired”:

• “The villas are built with coral stone walls and coconut wood frames and are intended to offer “a rare chance to step into the past”, while still giving guests access to hotel services and curated experiences such as guided bike tours, yoga, snorkelling and cultural activities.”

The resort is located on the local island of Hanimadhoo so you can get a truly immersive local culture experience while still having a dedicated resort area (including a boat the serves alcohol which is often not available for local island guests). The best of both Maldives, old and new.

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Now why didn’t I think of that? I love sandbank experiences. I often describe the Maldives as that iconic cartoon of a plot of sand in the middle of the ocean with a single palm tree on it and the Maldives sandbanks are literally that image. I also love all things al fresco – dining, cocktails and event falling asleep under the stars on our loungers. But doing so on a remote patch of sand in the middle of the ocean sounds like the ultimate Maldives experience. And now you can experience it at the Fushifaru resort:

• “Surrounded by crystal-clear waters, Fushifaru Maldives is redefining romantic island escapes with its extraordinary ‘Sleep Under the Stars’ experience – an unforgettable overnight stay on the resort’s breathtaking private sandbank. This once-in-a-lifetime experience invites couples to disconnect from the world and reconnect with each other beneath a sky illuminated by countless stars. Combining barefoot luxury, romance and the raw beauty of the Maldives, the experience has been thoughtfully designed to create memories that last forever.”

The ultimate desert island experience!

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A popular YouTube format is the “7 Levels of…” feature. Often, it is used for segmenting entertainment – ie. Rappers, Singers, TV Shows, Film Twists. But another common subject is luxury items – Watches, Wine, Megayachts, Hi-Fi Systems, Whiskey. I’ve often written about the gradient of differences between Maldives resorts to try to help make sense of the cacophony of reviews and ratings, so I thought that I would put out my own version of “7 Levels”:

1. Guest House – The ultimate entry level is the “Guest House”. These were introduced in 2008 to provide low-cost options for budget travellers and to extend the benefits of tourism business to local islands (as opposed to the dedicated resort islands). In addition to providing a very wallet-friendly alternative, they immerse guests into the authentic daily life of the local islanders. However, these properties and their locations do come with a number of constraints imposed by the Islamic culture such as no alcohol, no pork, and no bikinis (except sometimes in special segregated areas). Furthermore, the guest houses themselves are typically quite simple affairs not much more than a basic B&B with few amenities (and sometime lacking in features such as air conditioning)
   • Price Range: $30-90/n
   • Equivalent: Bed & Breakfast, hostels, motel
   • Examples. West Sands, Royal Villa Royal Villa Fulidhoo
2. Local Island Hotel – In addition to guest houses, some of the larger local, inhabited islands have small hotels built on them. These properties are more expansive and expensive than the guest houses. They are offer more facilities and typically a higher standard of décor and amenities. Most with have reception services, dining, even a pool.
   • Price Range: $100-$300/n
   • Equivalent: budget motorway motel
   • Examples – Hotel Jen, AIG Grand, White Shell Beach Inn, Arena Beach Hotel
3. Budget 3 star – The Maldives started as simple, un-airconditioned villas catering to the diving community and you can still find a few very simple properties that still provide relatively basic accommodation, service, and food. You will have air conditioning, and the same dappled blue ocean and enchanting sunsets to gaze upon, but pretty basic services and often tired, dated décor.
   • Price Range: $100-$300/nt
   • Equivalent: Butlins, holiday par
   • Examples – Eriyadu, Embudu, Bandos.
4. Value 4 star – When we first started visiting the Maldives in the 90s, this segment was the most popular. It has more than the basics. Nothing truly luxurious, but well appointed.
   • Price Range: $300-800/nt
   • Equivalent: Holiday Inn, budget chain hotel
   • Examples. Gangehi, Reethi Faru, Kandooma
5. Luxury 5 star –The luxury 5-star is the current hot segment dominating the new entrants. The vast majority of Maldives guests are affluent travellers who expect a high standard of aesthetics, cuisine, service and amenities that these properties deliver.
   • Price Range: $800-2000/nt
   • Equivalent: Marriott, W hotel
   • Examples. Emerald, Siyam World, Amilla Fushi
6. Super Lux – This is the “Wow” category. Table stakes here are elegant design, gourmet food, and typically some “wow” offering like an underwater restaurant, observatory, marine center, or observation tower.
   • Price Range: $2000-4000/nt
   • Equivalent: Leading Hotels of the World collection
   • Examples. Soneva Fushi, Velaa, Milaadhoo, Cheval Blanc.
7. Private Island – The ultimate in Maldives island luxury is your own private island. In the past, billionaires have occasionally bought out an entire resort property, but it is difficult to do because guests may have already booked some of the rooms well in advance. Also, a small island can be 50 rooms (or 100 guests typically) and that’s a LOT of friends to invite on holiday.
   • Price Range: $50k/nt
   • Equivalent: Branson’s Necker Island
   • Examples – Soneva Secret, Four Seasons Voavah, Waldorf Ithaafushi.

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