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Discovery Park – a transit-accessible hike in Seattle
The how and why of car-free hiking: blog on WTA.org
Turn Off The App – Go Outside! – plan a car-free outdoor adventure!
]]>My last night in Malawi was spent in Lilongwe, the biggest city, partying at a giant circular cluster of about 40 bars and clubs with a friendly Malawian and a couple other backpackers. All went smoothly except that we had to bribe a police officer on the way back due to the passenger not having her seatbelt on! We negotiated a fine of 2000 kwacha, about 4 US dollars. Pretty ridiculous given that seatbelts usually dont work in most taxis and minibuses you find in Malawi.
The next day I was off to South Luongwa National Park in Zambia. Traveling there from Lilongwe required a complicated mixture of share taxis, buses, and even a bicycle taxi. Ill let pictures tell the story of my adventures in the park.
]]>Unex turned out to be an incredibly interesting person and I ended up hiring him to be my guide for Mt Mulanje. During the journey up the mountain we discussed all kinds of things. He told me about how foreign mining companies unsuccessfully tried to exploit minerals in the mountains. He described how they were involved with environmental NGOs who advocated for eradicating an invasive pine tree that locals grow for wood. They claimed the pines needed to be removed as they were detrimental to the native cedars. The NGO removed the pines (assumptions were this was really for mine prospecting) without replanting cedars which had two detrimental effects. It led to massive erosion and also without pines to harvest locals turned to illegally harvest the cedars. The mining operation was attempted but locals overwhelmingly opposed it and staged a massive protest with many thousands of people from the surrounding villages. They destroyed mining equipment and leveraged a Malawian law that enables locals to legally block activities on their communal land they all oppose.

The site where the Japanese company tried to establish a mine. Chambe peak is in the background, the second highest peak in the Mulanje range.
Other interesting things I discussed with Unex included his attempts to start a hiking tour business. The only thing he lacks is startup capital which is basically impossible for people like him to come by here despite the seemingly enormous tourism business opportunities. Sadly most of the tourist money seems to flow through foreign entities that do expensive all-inclusive tours bringly little to the local people and economy.
I hiked into a “government hut” where we camped the first night, it was one of the more intense backpacks ive done, close to 2000 meters of elevation gain. Unex and I combined efforts to cook food and we all shared food, beer, and burbon with another group of a guide and a Croatian and English tourists who I befriended on the journey up.
Despite the bad look weather (a little rain and overcast) Unex and I decided we’d give it a shot and hope for the best as we began our climb up Sapitwa, the highest point in the range at 3003 meters. When we arrived it was still overcast so we cracked open 2 Carlsburg beers and talked. Right as we were packing up to head down the clouds opened up to show the magnificent panoramic view of the majestic Mulanje Range. Couldn’t have felt luckier.
]]>Friendly faces greeted and laughed with the mzungu (me). Curious what side the white person was on, a man decked out with a red suit something out of a circus tried to convince me to go for Red. With the exception of a small group of white people being shuffled off to the VIP section led by a Malawian man, it appeared I was an extremely rare breed out of the thousands there. Inside the stadium there was never a lack of fascinating sights, men dressed as women in their teams garb (very interesting given the extreme homophobia that exists here), a couple where the man had a hilarious mask making awkward jestures to the crowd as he passed. Myself along with my fellow Blues on my side of the crowd was dying with laughter. The teams were evenly matched and played extremely aggressively. Halftime was histarical as 3 acrobats jumped through hoops contorting their bodies in seemingly impossible ways.
Near the end of the game Raymond announces we must go as things are going to get violent. Red was going to win 1-0 and the sides of the crowd separated by color leaving a large gap in the stands. Outside the stadium i was intrigued to see what would happen and so we stayed observing from a hill outside. The crowd grew more chaotic as people poured from the stadium. Raymond then insisted we leave as the intensity grew…within a minute the mob begins to flee running abruptly and kicking up a dust storm. Before I knew what happened my face and eyes were burning like never before as I fled the area with Raymond down a dusty trail. People shared water to wash the tear gas from their faces as we made our way to safety. I laughed off the tears with other fans who found me amusing.
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A view from the bus ride. The immense trees are the sacred Baobob
Meeting friendly Malawians is a nonstop affair. The people were consistently the nicest and warmest I have ever encountered anywhere in the world. Malawi is truly deserving of its title as “the warm heart of Africa”. People came up to me all the time just to meet me and have small conversation. People shared food on buses and on numerous occasions I was invited to stay at peoples houses.
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