Offering its very own adventure along the way, a three-hour road trip from Dubai took us deep into the depths of the Empty Quarter, where we drove winding desert roads that skirted towering sand dunes and led us straight to the luxurious gates of a once-in-a-lifetime Arabian escape…
An adventurous staycation, a luxurious vacation or a romantic bae-cation: no matter what the occasion, Anantara Qasr Al Sarab delivers, particularly in a time where the luxe traveller seeks as much from surrounding experiences as they do from the resort they have chosen for their city ‘switch-off’. And these days, despite a backpacker background, I’m all for that luxe living, with a generous side of exploration and fun.
When a resort has the chameleon-like ability to blend into its surrounding landscape – without forgetting the cultural ties to its chosen location – it gets an immediate thumbs-up from me. Qasr Al Sarab has that rare ability to make you feel as though you have left the UAE, despite the UAE being at the heart of its design and destination features. When you take that left-turn from the highway and start your approach to the resort, the anticipation of your secluded hideaway starts to build, and what you are met with at the end of that road certainly does not disappoint.
Ananatara Qasr Al Sarab is a sprawling Arabian fortress built across multiple levels; its walled walkways, turrets and courtyards create a lost-world feel with an air of secluded tranquility that’ll have you believing you are the only guests at the resort (once you have ventured beyond the check-in lounge), even if it’s at high-capacity. It’s as magical as it is wander-ful and nods to the country’s cultural heritage in every aspect of its design details.
From garden and terrace rooms to suites and royal pool villas, the resort offers a plethora of possibilities. We opted for the Deluxe Garden Room, which – by Qasr Al Sarab standards – is the ‘basic’ option in the resort’s accommodation hierarchy, but by normal hotel standards, it is the furtherest thing from basic you could ever imagine. We were whisked away to our ‘room’ (more like a mini, secluded villa) by a golf-cart and had a two-stairway private entrance into our hidden abode. What can you expect behind your over-sized entrance? A plush bathroom with an oversized tub, a bedroom that oozes traditional charm but offers modern amenities and a decent-sized garden that looks out over the endless dunes.
If you’re searching for wrap-around desert views with kaleidoscopic sunsets, stars and secluded suites, you’ve come to the right place. If you are searching for rolling sand dunes to satisfy your adventurous soul, you’ll find those in abundance, too. You do not drive deep into the Empty Quarter to just look at the golden view; getting out and traipsing to the top of the dunes is a must… just plan your trip for a winter month if you want to explore during the daytime.
We took to the ‘slopes’ just after breakfast for some morning exercise; this seems to be a good choice for anyone who wants to feel wildly alone amidst the dunes. However, the more popular thing to do is to traverse the dunes just before sunset, so if you don’t mind sharing the experience with strangers then that’s an option, too. We were a couple of sundowners deep at that stage, where we were equally rewarded by the views from the pool bar followed by our garden terrace.
Were you even in the Empty Quarter if you didn’t stumble upon a desert swing that definitely wasn’t put there to lure in the insta-travellers who have flown halfway across the globe to pose at the ‘most instagrammable hotel in the world’?! Damn right, I took a photo of me swinging into the social frenzy. If you’re into your photography – or just your Instagram – Qasr Al Sarab is designed to deliver photo ops at every corner.
More than desert swings, the resort’s massive pool offers all the chill-out vibes that you came for. Set to the backdrop of the dunes (do you see the recurring theme of this dreamy desert location yet?!), the pool also features a swim-up bar area where you can sip cocktails until your heart is content. Not one for sharing poolside bliss? Book into a villa for your own pool instead… just expect to pay at least double the price for your privacy.
Anantara Qasr Al Sarab offers a number of dining options that range from poolside pizzas to private dinner-by-design on the dunes and bedouin-style barbecue experiences that let you taste Arabian culture under the stars. If you are staying in one of the luxurious villas, the resort can even arranged for private catering. Sunset lounge? Check. Steakhouse with wine-cellar? Check. Brunch-style breakfast with mini donuts and fresh honeycomb feature? Yup, that too… just make sure you get to breakfast early as we were slightly disappointed that the hot food was a little cold when our lazy-morning selves arrived.
Okay, okay… so, like me, spending your days on a sun-lounger does nothing for you. Fear not because the resort also offers a variety of activities including fat-biking, horse-riding, archery, camel trekking, desert drives and more. Even though the resort offers dune-bashing, you don’t have to worry about it disturbing the peace; these adventures happen far away from the oasis of the resort.
And if you’re there for the a zen-sational time instead, the opulent Anantara Spa will impress, or you could opt for a desert yoga session.
A big statement to make, but Anantara Qasr Al Sarab is a definite feature in my ‘top 5 hotels around the world (from those I have been to so far)’ – a round-up article that I will create… soon. While you’ll likely get more affordable rates during the hotter months, I would highly recommend booking for the cooler months to enjoy perfect temperatures during the day and all the cool, wintery feels at night. For the everyday expat who is already familiar with having the desert on their doorstep, this resort is a bucket list splurge (starting from AED 1,850) that you should plan for while living in the Middle East. Trust me, you won’t regret it.
See more of the Middle East or check out a variety of travel inspo under destinations.
]]>My first experience of Taiwan was a quick city break, where I tracked down some of the best things to do in Taipei and spent a day exploring the coastal city of Kaohsuing in South Taiwan. I had wanted to make my way over to the rugged East Coast, but there wasn’t enough time, so you can imagine how excited I was when the Taiwan Tourism Board heard about this and invited me back to see more of the island. Not only did they welcome me with open arms after a direct flight from Dubai to Tapei, but they helped to plan an itinerary that made sure I would get to grips with some East Coast Taiwan adventures in Taroko National Park.
The East Coast of Taiwan is an adventurer’s playground. Its dramatic, geological landscapes are actually the result of the island’s high seismic activity, so you can expect sheer cliffs plunging into the Pacific Ocean, marbles gorges, deep canyons, turquoise rivers, stunning waterfalls and winding roads that wrap themselves around endless mountains. With such scenic diversity, it’s no wonder that when the Portuguese stumbled across Taiwan in the 1500s, they named the East Coast ‘Ihla Formosa’, meaning ‘the beautiful isle’.
Whether you’re in search of a budget road trip that allows you to skirt winding roads on a scooter, or you’re looking for a luxe experience that mixes mountain peaks with private transport and tour guides, the East Coast of Taiwan will ignite even the coolest of adventurous souls.
Here’s all the need-to-know info and a two-day itinerary for Taroko National Park on the East Coast of Taiwan – because that’s where you’ll want to spend all your time.
If you want to get to Taroko National Park and experience everything mentioned above, then you need to head to Hualien; it’s a small city on the East Coast. To get from Taipei to Hualien, you have three main modes of transport: you can drive there, catch a train or take an internal flight. We caught the train from Taipei to Hualien and then flew back to save time. There was also a driver assigned to us for this 6-day Taiwan trip, so he drove to Hualien (with the luggage – conveniently) because you need a mode of transport to get around Taroko Gorge and the national park.
No matter how you get to Hualien, bear in mind that you will need further transport to get you to Taroko National Park, whether it be a bus, a scooter or a car/van.
When people travel to the city of Hualien, they are usually there for one reason – to get themselves to Taroko. Lots of budget travellers base themselves in Hualien because it has a lot more variety to offer in terms of the food and accommodation options, but we were fortunate enough to be staying in an incredible mountain-side hotel for the night – more on that later.
Taroko National Park is Taiwan’s top tourist destination. Covering 1,200 sq km, the park is 90% mountainous and boasts 27 peaks over 3000m. If you have time on your side, spend 3 days in Taroko, but you can cover a lot of ground with just two. We were there for the majority of two days and one night, but it’s such a scenic part of the island that it would be a great place to chill and enjoy nature. Also, try to get there mid-week; remember that popular hotspots come with tourists, particularly on the weekends.
For those who want to avoid the crowds:
The Qingshui Cliffs are just one feature of Nature’s jaw-dropping creative canvas. From Hualien, we drove along Highway 9 to get to two spectacular viewing points of the clear-water (Qingshui) cliffs.
Highway 9 is the only coastal road in Taroko National Park that allows you to drive between the mountain peaks and the Pacific Ocean, which means you can see the cliffs plunging vertically into the blue-turquoise waters. The road snakes along the coastline and is made up of a series of tunnels that have been carved into the cliffs – the engineering behind the mountain roads in Taiwan is actually insane… and it gets even more impressive as you navigate your way through Taroko Gorge. You’ll easy spend a couple of hours just taking in your surroundings around the Qingshui cliffs.
Did you know that Taiwan has 14 recognised indigenous tribes? Neither did I until I got to the East Coast where a high concentration of indigenous people live. So, lunch on both days in Taroko was tribal-style cuisine, and it didn’t disappoint.
After visiting Qingshui cliffs, we drove to our first, incredibly scenic spot for lunch. It happened to be in a wooden hotel that sits on its own mountainous plateau; it’s called Taroko Village Hotel, and many Taroko Tribal members work there, so you can expect a Truku tribal menu with a contemporary twist, and you’ll be eating in picturesque surroundings. While we only visited for lunch, it looked like an incredible hotel option with around 28 wooden tribal suites set against the backdrop of many, many mountains.
On our second day in Taroko, we stopped at Dajeeli Tribe Restaurant for lunch; it’s s an extremely authentic spot that’s hidden away among the trees. It’s the kind of place that I would never have had the chance to experience if it wasn’t for Stephen (Stephen was the tour guide, the fountain of knowledge and the kind-hearted soul assigned to take me into the depths of Taiwanese culture.) Tables and benches at Dajeeli are made from driftwood slabs and the décor is true to its indigenous roots. You can read the story behind Mother Gao, but the food speaks for itself and its history. You can expect a cheap banquet-style feast made up of mountain ingredients and served on mountain leaves; you can hit your bamboo-tube rice off the rocks to open it up and scoop it out. And you’ll wash it all down with Oolong tea served in a papaya shell.
If you’re the type of traveller who aspires to be more ‘outdoorsy’ but loves fancy hotels far too much, then there is one place in Taroko Gorge that blends the best of both worlds. While in Taroko National Park, I was fortunate enough to spend the night in the park’s only five-star hotel, known as Silks Place Taroko. Yes, I can confirm that luxe adventures are a thing, and there are more and more people looking for the plush life meshed in with rugged landscapes and mountain adventures.
What I loved about Silks Place – more than the incredible rooftop that boasts temperature-controlled jacuzzis, two pools, real fire-pit features and a cosy outdoor lounge – was that it is not one of those invasive five-star hotels that drops itself into a landscape without any consideration for its surroundings. Rather, Silks Place is nestled into the mountain-side and is relatively low-key upon approach. It’s only when you walk around the hotel from inside that you appreciate what it is hiding. When you stand on the rooftop and look around you, you’ll see mountains – everywhere – and in the distance, you’ll catch a glimpse at all the things you plan to do tomorrow, including hiking trails, suspension bridges and hill-top pagodas.
Just a stone-throw away from Silks Place, you’ll discover Pudu Bridge, which leads you the stairways that will take you to a hill-top Pagoda, known as the Xiandge Temple. From the temple, you can take in the views of the Tiangtiang village. It’s an ideal way to start your day because you’ll generally find that no one else will be there, so you can enjoy a peaceful morning under the colourful, and musical, pagoda.
Visiting Taroko National Park and taking on its trails is totally free, so you just need to think about your transport, food and accommodation. There are three main types of trails within Taroko National Park: scenic trails, hiking trails and mountaineering trails. With some much more gruelling than others, you can choose a trail that works for your fitness and endurance level. Across the two days that we were there, we mainly covered scenic trails, which are super easy and very flat, but I already want to go back and do the Zhuili Old Trail (this one takes you to the mountain tops and needs a permit). Here’s the easily-accessible trails that we covered, which can all be done relatively quickly.
The Baiyang Trail is also known as the Baiyang Waterfall trail, and it’s probably the most fun because it brings you through six tunnels, across a suspension bridge and delivers a Water Curtain Cave as well as waterfalls at the end of it.
Need-to-know: this is a short 2.1km trail that anyone could do. All you’ll need is a torch, a rain poncho and a couple of hours to enjoy it all.
The Etertnal Spring Shrine trail, also known as the Changchun trail, is a quick stop-off that takes you to a monastery that juts out from the bottom of a mountain. It was built to commemorate 226 military veterans who died during the construction of the Central Cross-Island Highway between 1956-1960. Once you’ve seen the engineering feat that is the highway, you’ll likely wonder how there weren’t more fatalities during its construction. It is an incredible road.
Need-to-know: The Eternal Spring Shrine trail is more of a famous pit stop for pictures, which draws the tour buses. The trail is super short but it was closed the day we were there due to damage to the passageway.
The Tunnel of Nine Turns, also known as the Jiuqudong trail, is just 700m in length and, yes, you guessed it – this trail brings you through nine turns. What is interesting is that this trail used to be a part of the Central Cross-Island Highway, but it has now been pedestrianised. The marble gorges and the Liwu River that runs through it make it incredibly scenic; there’s also an ascending air current at the end of it, so it suddenly gets very windy.
Need-to-know: this is a quick roundtrip that will only take you about 30 minutes; you can read a little bit more about the history and the viewpoint at each of the nine turns here.
The Shakadang Trail greets you with many signs that include messages such as, “Beware of poisonous bees or snakes” and “Heavy rockfall; do not linger”. However, don’t let that put you off; it’s totally fine. The Shakadang trail winds through canyons and opens up into a rock-strewn river. About halfway in, you’ll also find a couple of small stalls, one of which serves up “the best mountain sausage in Taroko”; it is undeniably tasty. Once you’re a couple of hundred metres in, you will feel like you’re alone as the tourists don’t seem to venture too far after taking a quick one-hundred photos.
Need-to-know: the Shakadang trail is a flat 4.4km trail. Give yourself 3-4 hours for this one, but you could spend a leisurely half-day there if you wanted to chill.
Swallow Grotto, also known as the Yanzikou trail, sits on the Central Cross-Island Highway and let’s you enjoy the dramatic terrain of the gorge and the Liwu River. The trail used to be the old road, but this was separated from the highway due to the level of rock fall. As such, there are now two tunnels that run through Swallow Grotto.
Need-to-know: it is highly recommended to wear your helmet for this one. Free hard hats are provided upon entry to Taroko Gorge.
The East Coast of the island is just another reason why it’s time for Taiwan to feature on your travel bucket list. The next time I visit, I’ll probably take on the Central Cross-Island Highway (Highway 8), the most picturesque route in Taiwan!
Sponsored: This trip was in collaboration with the Taiwan Tourism Board; however, all opinions are my own – as always. Explore #TimeForTaiwan and #HeartofAsia to see more of what the island has to offer on Instagram. Alternatively, you can explore more of my top things to do in Taiwan!
]]>Here are 15 things to do in Hong Kong, curated from three trips (so far). A massive shout out to my friends who now live there and have fast-tracked the discovery of all these awesome adventures. This only scratches the surface of things to do in Hong Kong, so I can’t wait to get back for trip number four…
Possibly the top thing to do while in Hong Kong is to experience the iconic views from the top of The Peak. The quickest way to get to the top is on the Peak Tram, but there are multiple walking paths if you like to earn your mountain-top vista with a bit of uphill exercise. Sky Terrace 428 is the highest viewing point, where you can experience panoramic views, and if you like to see a city transform from day to night, then get here just before sunset.
Tip: If you buy The Peak Sky Pass for HK$99, you’ll get a return trip on the tram and access to the Sky Terrace. You can lower the costs by skipping the tram and/or the Sky Terrace if you’re on a budget.
This is essentially two awesome things to do in Hong Kong, packed into one afternoon adventure. Sitting on Lantau island, the big, bronze-seated Buddha is not to be missed. The Big Buddha, also known as Tian Tan Buddha, is Lantau’s most iconic attraction and the most enjoyable way to get there is via the cable car. You can hop on the Ngong Ping 360 from downtown Tung Chung to Ngong Ping; the sky-high journey will take you through the Ngong hills, across the mountains and along the ocean.
Tip: a return-trip will cost you around HK$235. If you’re feeling fancy, you can get a glass-bottom Crystal Cabin for HK$315.
Hong Kong is dotted with hidden bars and speakeasies. So, if you want to transport yourself back to the prohibition era, then go in search of the hidden doors and alleyways where you can grab a quirky cocktail and be ‘Sssshh’d’ – just for the hell of it. Feather Boa was a top choice for some vintage vibes and frozen Daiquiris, but it has now closed down. Stockton Speakeasy is another one we found under a lightbulb down a dark alley, but its a lot more upscale, so you can expect prices to match.
Have you even been to Hong Kong if you haven’t bought cans from 7/11 and joined the Lan Kwai Fong street parties?! Lan Kwai Fong is a nightlife hotspot; it’s essentially a curved street, which is lined with restaurants and bars, but you can happily pop to 7/11 to buy drinks for your street-side antics. If you time your visit right, you’ll can catch one of the street carnivals; either way, you can expect everything from jelly-shot madness to upscale nightlife bars.
I love the Mid-Levels in Hong Kong; the famous outdoor escalators bring you up and down the city hills, and they are lined with pubs, restaurants, shops and more. You won’t regret taking an afternoon or evening and bar hopping your way from top to bottom – or vice versa. Make the most of happy hours and people watching from window terraces. Grab a neopolitan pizza at Motorino, sip on $35 happy hour cocktails at Ibirico & Co or enjoy a lazy evening at Peak Cafe. There are So(Ho) many bar options to discover along the escalators.
Novelty Dim Sum is a thing. Unless you’ve been hiding under a rock, you have more than likely seen the crazy food creations all over social media. The Cantonese dim-sum craze is worth exploring and you can get your hands (or chopsticks) on some of the best novelty dim sum in Hong Kong at Yum Cha; the BBQ piggy buns and the Hot Custard buns are a must.
If quirky food is not your thing, then swap the novelty dim sum for some fine-dining dim sum at Lei Garden. Lei Garden holds a Michelin star for its top-notch cuisine. so you can expect steamer baskets full of bite-sized goodness. There are even private dining rooms for those who want a bit of privacy.
Mong Kok offers a glimpse of the lesser-known side of Hong Kong life – on the Kowloon peninsula. You can expect a myriad of street stalls, markets, bustling alleyways, hidden (and super cheap) massage rooms, plus a whole lot of people. It’s certainly not the place you go to relax, but if you’re looking to get to the heart of the everyday Hong Kong hustle, then this is where you’ll find your crazy, not-so-fancy adventures.
Sunsets over sunrises… any day. Mostly because sunset is an acceptable hour to kick back with happy hour cocktails and watch a city transform from day to night. If you’ve visited The Peak, then one of the best places to catch a spectacular sunset in Hong Kong is at Eyebar. Eyebar is a stunning rooftop bar in iSquare, that looks back at Hong Kong from Kowloon; it’s definitely one of the best vantage points in the city – especially if you want to watch Hong Kong’s sunset laser show (A Symphony of Lights). The laser show kicks off at 8pm every night, so you can linger after sunset and enjoy it all from Eyebar.
There is no shortage of bars in Hong Kong, so you’ll never quite be done. If you’re looking for some of the best bars in Hong Kong, you’ll have to do a little more research because I have only scratched the surface of what’s on offer. But if you’re happy with a handful of places that I’ve tried and tested then Varga is great for delicious cocktails in a vintage living room setting. Lily & Bloom is upmarket industrial and oozes some low-key romantic vibes. Le Jardin is a great option for drinks in an (almost) secret garden. And if all three are a bit too fancy for you, then go rogue and have some beer pong fun at Racks, a dive bar along Wyndham road.
Again, it would be absolutely impossible for me to name the best restaurants in Hong Kong because the list is never-ending. The city is a melting pot of cultures, and you can expect a foodie scene to match. I’ll keep thing simple by recommending one breakfast spot – because everyone loves breakfast. The coffee and the Chorizo Avocado toast at The Cupping Room gets a massive ‘YES’ for being immensely tasty. Oh, and La Vache! SoHo is also a popular – and delicious – choice for unlimited fries and steak.
Hong Kong egg tarts or Portugese eggs tarts are a staple snack to seek out while roaming the streets of Hong Kong. There are plenty of bakeries dotted around the city, so there’s no shortage of options for those looking to create an Egg Tart travel guide. I’m giving a shout out to Queen Sophie’s as an un-egg-spected option.
Just when you think you’ve seen a little bit of everything in Hong Kong, someone tells you there are beaches and boat parties. Possibly the most popular beach in Hong Kong, Repulse Bay is an upmarket neighborhood that boasts a crescent beach, a temple and a shoreline of dining options. So, if you fancy an afternoon of beach bar bliss and surfer-town vibes, then swing by Repulse Bay and base yourself at Lime Wood.
If you have ever been to a Rugby 7s weekend around the world, you’ll know that you’re in for a weekend of sporting (and drinking) fun. Expect fancy dress and some extreme antics in the wild South Stand (not suitable for kids!), and a more relaxed atmosphere around the rest of the stadium. If you can plan your trip around the rugby 7s weekends, then it’s a definite addition to any itinerary. The Hong Kong 7s will be held from 3-5 April 2020, so check it out.
If you want to escape the high-rises and city bustle, then one of the best things to do in Hong Kong, given its mountainous landscape, is to get outdoors and go for a hike. Hong Kong offers some serious trails with epic views, of which I have only done one small one from The Peak. However, here is a list of top trails that you can use as a starting point for discovering some seriously awesome landscapes.
The TurboJet ferry takes you from Hong Kong to Macau, which was a Portuguese colony for over 400 years. When you cross the Pearl Delta river to Macau, you’ll quickly realise why the city has earned its nickname as the “Las Vegas of Asia”. The city is a wonderland of over-the-top hotels, high-rolling casinos, sky-high adventures and old-world charm.
Things to do in Macau include exploring the UNESCO-listed Old Taipa Village, which captures the fusion of European and Asian culture. While in the old village, make sure you stop off for a drink in the Old Taipa Tavern and pick up a Portuguese Egg Tart from Lord Stow while you aimlessly wander the back streets. Book a night in The Venetian Macau and catch a Gondola ride through the hotel’s waterways before hotel hopping to see the other extravagant resorts in the neighbouring areas. Hop on the Skycab Cable Car to Wynn Palace Hotel (yes, the hotel has its own cable car). But most importantly, have some fun on the casino slot machines… or, if you have the money to splurge, join the high-rollers for some big-boy bets. Like to live life on the edge? Take on the world’s highest bungee jump from the top of Macau Tower!
And that’s your action-packed guide to another of Asia’s top destinations. For more travel inspiration, check out top destinations around the world.
]]>A 30-day challenge is a strategy for developing a new habit. It’s an opportunity to stay motivated through self-discipline. It’s a plan for overcoming fears and developing inner confidence. It’s a short-term experiment that is absolutely doable… unless you’re me, and you fail to think it through properly.
Sometimes, you just need to give yourself a kick up the a** to set things in motion or get back on track. We all have our own reasons for setting ourselves a 30-day challenge; here were mine:
My 30-day writing challenge took me 56 days to complete. In short, I went about it all wrong. Here are 3 things you can do to ensure that you successfully complete your 30-day challenge:
So, where did I go wrong? Well, I failed to do all three of the above. I decided to set myself the challenge of writing ‘something’ every day for 30 days. The problem arose from the fact that I had never intended to just “write something“.
Seemingly, what I had meant when I vocalised this challenge was that I wanted to write 30 articles for my website. This meant – to the perfectionist in me – that I would create 30 articles with selected photographs from various destinations that I have travelled to. This also meant – to the storyteller in me – that sometimes these articles would consist of thousands of words, drawing on experiences and articulating my travel musings. You see the problem here, right?
The list goes on. I had, in hindsight, set myself up for nothing but failure. These were mistakes that I actually realised on day two (when I was already off-track), but I was mentally invested at that stage, so I told myself that I would trudge on and embrace the learnings… no matter how long it took.
30-day challenges are great for kick-starting progress in any aspect of your life. A 30-day challenge that revolves around writing or self-expression, however, can be tough… especially if you pride yourself on being a creative soul. There’s a lot of overthinking involved and, unlike forcing yourself to the gym for exactly 30 minutes, you can’t always force yourself into a creative mindset. Even if you’re an Editor, writing for yourself rather than a brand, can bring about feelings of vulnerability. Here are my three key takeaways from my 30-day writing challenge:
Once you let go of fear, judgement and self-criticisms, you’ll start to focus on your journey of progress and you’ll develop an inner confidence, alongside a new, healthy habit.
Pay it forward: the next time you see or hear of a friend who has set themselves a 30-day challenge, know that they are trying to overcome an obstacle, to better themselves in some way, to build new habits; maybe, they’re simply trying something new. Ping them a quick message, support their journey and wish them well. Be happy for them.
]]>Paris is red lipstick with a spritz of French parfum; its a seductive ooh-la-la whose whisper echoes through a room.
Paris is arches and bridges and cobble-stoned streets; it’s Romanesque architecture boasting ornate feats.
Paris is the Notre-Dame, but it’s also don’t give a damn – unless you speak en Français; it’s a reserved politeness delivered in a distinctly Parisian way.
Paris is the Eiffel Tower, but it’s also ‘I fell for you‘; it’s whimsically romantic but it’s cliché, too.
Paris is the Arc de Triomphe, but it’s also triumphantly ironic; it pays tribute to the dead, yet Champs-Élysée‘s more iconic.
Paris is croissants, baguettes and boulangeries; it’s Croque Monsieur but also Crème Brülée.
Paris is bicycles, scooters and European trains; it’s an overcrowded subway, but no-one complains.
Paris is museums and galleries and fashionable boutiques; it’s aspiring artists, models and haute social cliques.
Paris is a city sealed with a passionate French kiss; it’s rose-tinted reminiscence and a dreamer’s ‘What if…?’
This is Paris – Paris to me.
Prefer tips and itineraries to travel poetry? Check out these top destinations around the world instead.
]]>Having flown from Abu Dhabi to Paris with Etihad, I hopped on a morning train from Paris Charles De Gaulle Airport and woke up in the south of France, at Marseilles St. Charles station, just four hours later. In a city that’s full of surprises, here are the best things to do in Marseille:
Parc National Des Calanques should top every list of best things to do in Marseille; it is breathtaking. You could very easily spend an entire day discovering the natural beauty of this national park along the coast of Southern France. The coast’s limestone cliffs and bays have created steep-walled inlets that have formed impressive calanques (coves) that form a sprawling, dramatic landscape.
The towering calanques plunge into crystal blue waters where you can swim or chill for hours; it’s incredibly peaceful and feels like a world away from city life. Not one for sitting around? Fill a backpack with snacks and hike your way around the Calanques to bask in the beauty of this national park.
Tip: visit on a weekday morning to get the Calanques to yourself. Technically, the Calanques are situated between Marseilles city and the university town of Cassis, but one metro ride from the harbour and a 40-minute bus journey will get you there.
The lazy backstreets of La Panier, Marseille’s old quarter, deserve at least an afternoon of your time. With its cobble-stones, colourful boutiques and cosy cafés, Rue Du Panier is easily my favourite street in Marseille; it’s also the main street in the La Panier neighborhood. The alleyways of La Panier are hide the history of the ancient greeks with distinctive houses that exude a village-like feel with their shuttered windows and hanging baskets (or clotheslines). The streets are narrow and steep; they also pop with an eclectic mix of street art.
Tip: take yourself on a a self-guided street art and wine tour (make stops at multiple cafés) of La Panier to soak up its old-wordly charm. If ascending and existing La Panier from the bottom of the hills, find nearby 7VB and grab yourself a speciality coffee in the hipster basement.
If you want to discover a distinctive, old-meets-new attraction in central Marseille, then visit MuCEM & its adjoining Fort Saint-Jean.
MuCEM – the Mueum of European & Mediteranean Civilisations – is hidden behind contemporary walls of the J4 building; the intricacy of the J4’s cube-shaped design is a spectacle in itself, but if you want to learn more about Mediterranean Civilisations then visit the museum inside. It’s worth noting that while the museum is interesting, there are only certain segments of information that are translated into English, which takes away from the full understanding. It could also be better sign-posted to guide you through in a logical order.
MuCEM’s rooftop walkway takes you from the contemporary architectural design of the J4 building to the old Fort Saint-Jean, which is steeped in history that dates back to the 12th-century. If not for the history, then visit for the panoramic views of Marseille and the surrounding ocean.
Tip: check Fort St-Jean’s closing times fort before you go. While it seems more like part of the city that you can stroll into at any time, the coastal wonder closes its doors to the public when the sun goes down, so make sure you lap up those views in the late afternoon.
The Cours Julien quarter is lined with bohemian bars and restaurants, with adjoining alleyways that boast bookshops, boutiques and splashings of eclectic street art. At this stage, it’s probably worth noting that I visited Cours Julien twice while in Marseille and had two very different experiences.
My first experience of Cours Julien was very much a successful solo soirée. I took myself to the hippy-esque, hill-top square with just enough time to watch a kaleidoscopic sunset before taking myself for a couple of glasses of wine (just one of the many romantic evenings that I have spent with myself…).
The second visit to Cours Julien was not quite the same. Two friends arrived in Marseille the following day and, having proudly discovered the neighbourhood by myself, I offered to take them to Cours Ju (as the locals call it) to end the evening. While sat in the square, we were approached by both drug addicts and a foul-smelling (just being honest) woman who wanted to tell us about her couscous dinner, without realising she was putting us off our own. Oh, and we also witnessed an ambulance pull up after a waitress seemingly collapsed. I spent the entire time expressing how “it definitely wasn’t like this yesterday!”
What both nights did have in common, however, was great food and drinks at La Baleine, which is a community cinema cum bar and restaurant. You can sit inside or join the throngs of locals in the outdoor square.
Tip: Check the area out, stop for food and embrace its lively atmosphere; expect to find eclectic characters sharing a bottle of wine on the main steps.
Vieux Port is the Old Harbour in downtown Marseilles; the pedestrian-friendly, natural harbour sits at the end of Marseille’s main street, Canebiere, and it’s a great place to get to grips city life. The area is a hub of lively activity and a great place to people-watch while you wine and dine in one of the many bars or restaurants that line the central harbour. You can expect to see fishing boats, tourist boats and expensive yachts on the water; you’ll also find a mirror canopy at the very end of the harbour, just beside the steps down to the metro, which comes alive with street performers throughout the day.
Tip: this area is buzzing with tourists in search of those seaside Mediterannean vibes, so if you’re not into overly commercialised neighborhoods then a sunset walk is more than enough before you head to dinner in another part of town.
Love France? After you’ve discovered the best things to do in Marseille, why not hop on a train to the historic centre of Avignon, explore Grenoble or venture to the foothills of the Alps? If you want to venture outside of Europe, check out these top destinations in Asia or Africa!
]]>In a world where people are selling you quick ‘hacks’ to happiness, getting rich, losing weight, success and… well, pretty much everything, just remember that the proliferation of this hack-and-hope culture has risen in correlation with the number of people living their ‘best life’ on social media. That is, to put it politely, there’s a lot of BS out there.
The first-time I ever flew Business Class was on an Emirates flight from Dubai to Bangalore… and it was completely unexpected. You know, one of those surprise upgrades that we have all seen people bragging about on social media, which “always happen to everyone else – just not me”.
It was a confusing experience; partly because I was under the impression that a successful man I (barely) knew had rang Emirates and upgraded me*, but also partly because nobody approached me with a bill for the handful of mojitos I drank while basking in all my business-class glory before I off-boarded the 4-hour flight. I had no idea how this ‘upgrade’ life worked, so leaving the plane and collecting my ‘priority’ luggage before strutting my tipsy self through fast-track security was the actual-factual dawning of my realization that flying Business Class was, as far as a frequent flyer is concerned, the absolute dream.
*Note: following on from my ‘thank you!’ WhatsApp, I found out that the successful man I (barely) knew had not – as any normal person would have fathomed – played any role in the upgrade. Awks.
Following on from that first experience, I became a lot more comfortable with the idea of flying Business. So comfortable, in fact, that I spent my next Business Class experience (a return work flight from Dubai to San Francisco – 3 years later) sleeping for 14 of the 16 hours that we were onboard. Impressive, I know – especially since it was a brand-spanking new A380. That’s the double-decker airbus with an accompanying bar – a free bar, may I add.
I could not get over the fact that while I had been brushing my knees off the economy seat in front of me for the last decade, there were people stretched out – horizontally – in a chair that had the ability to massage them. And I wanted a bit of that life… just a glimpse.
That one flight bumped me up with enough points to attain and retain Silver Status for an entire year. Once you’re at Silver Status with Emirates, there’s a whole lot of benefits that you can take advantage of. For example:
Okay, so if you live in the UAE then you already know that there’s a lot of cabin crew living in Dubai and Abu Dhabi. But there’s also a lot of other permanent airline staff, including engineers, pilots, check-in staff, office staff and more.
Both Emirates and Etihad are huge airlines, and Etihad is the UAE’s national airline. Now, one of the major perks for working for the national airline is the heavily-discounted flights that are assigned to staff every year. This makes business class tickets extremely affordable.
So, what’s that travel hack you came here for? If you know people working for Etihad (or Emirates), the chances are that they have plenty of tickets that may never be used. Yep, you read that correctly; there are likely thousands of discounted flights going to waste because your friend or acquaintance has too many to use up. If you spend a small fortune on flights, you may have just shed a small tear.
Immoral moral of the story? Befriend someone* who works for a big airline and gets heavily discounted tickets that often go to waste…
This is my secret to frequent and affordable travel. Why? Because I’m willing to take the chances of flying standby with Etihad. This means I get placed on a standby booking, then I go to the airport and if there are available seats in business class (or economy), I can board. Some people hate the ‘risk’ involved with standby flights, but to-date, this risk has paid off for me every time.
*(Maybe even marry them for unlimited access to aforementioned tickets? Just an idea…)
So you’re already high on the tiers of airline rewards and you’ve never had an upgrade? You know no airline staff and can’t imagine getting to know any without feeling like you have an ulterior motive? You are the unluckiest person in the world and the chances of you being selected for a surprise upgrade are negligible? Let’s finish with a handful of other ways that you can increase your chances of getting an airline upgrade:
You may not be able to ‘hack’ your way to a free upgrade, but there are plenty of ways to increase your chances and to get your hands on cheaper Business Class tickets.
Check out top destinations for your next getaway, and let me know if you get an upgrade somewhere along the way!
]]>The island nation of Singapore is a mashup of long-standing cultural quarters, cuisines and architectural creativity that has seen it forge eco-friendly skyscrapers and put environmentalism at the forefront of its quest to set a global example for sustainable urbanism. It has transformed itself from a developing city into an environmentally innovative powerhouse, and it’s certainly worth a stop-off for a quick city break while you’re in Asia. Here are 10 top things to do in Singapore to get you started:
Okay, okay, I know this only happens once per year and it certainly isn’t cheap, but if you can get your hands on tickets to the Singapore Grand Prix then plan your trip around the race weekend. How this island nation can set up a street circuit smack-bang in the middle of the city, with serious festival vibes, and still function, blows my mind. What a location and what a way to gear-up for some post-race parties and non-stop music under the city’s skyline.
In the past, if I had read an article that listed an airport as a ‘top thing to do’, I would have questioned visiting that city in the first place, but believe me when I tell you that Singapore’s new airport terminal is a destination within itself. I won’t dwell on it because I have already curated a guide to the Jewel Changi Airport Terminal that gives you a glimpse into all the insane things you can find at Singapore’s airport, but make sure you allocate a bit of time to enjoy it after you’ve dropped your bags off at check-in.
When I flew from the UAE to Singapore, I certainly didn’t expect to stumble across an ‘Arab Street’, a ‘Muscat Street’ or a ‘Haji Lane’, but I found all three in the Kampong Glam neighborhood. The self-proclaimed ‘Muslim Quarter’ is steeped in history, and its centrepiece is the gold-domed Sultan Mosque that points down a boulevard lined with restaurants and cafés. Don’t miss Bussorah Street; it’s essentially an art gallery (#GelamGallery) featuring an eclectic mix of art works and colorful splatterings. Once you’re done, wonder down across to Haji Lane to explore the boutiques and bars that line the narrow alleyway; aim to be there for late afternoon when it really starts to come to life. It’s a little bit hipster, a little bit chichi, but also a little bit ‘backpacker’ vibes… without the backpacks.
The best breakfast I had in Singapore was in the heart of Duxton Hill, in an upstairs café known as Group Therapy. Not only was it the best breakfast in Singapore, but I also recall exclaiming that the crispy ‘Parma Ham Eggs Ben’ was “a definite top 3 contender” in the list of best Eggs Benedict I have ever eaten. Bold statement, I know. If you love to escape a city’s main attractions then take a stroll through Duxton Hill and soak up its indie personality, juice bars, boutiques and hidden restaurants. If returning in the evening, pop to nearby D.O.C, along Tanjong Pagar, for an authentic Neopolitan pizza cooked up by animated Chef Davide.
Temples, beers, buddhas, budget bites and market stalls: a trip to China Town is a must for the not-so-snobby tourist. Hawkers Centres – essentially open-air food courts – are a foodie’s dream for getting to grips with Singapore’s melting pot of cuisines; they’re also the most budget-friendly way to eat in the city, and China Town is home to one of the most famous: the China Town Food Complex. Want a craft beer to wash down a cheap Michelin meal? You’ll find it here.
Just across from central China Town, we discovered Ann Siang Hill and Club Street, where restored houses ooze quaint vibes by day before the hill (and its rooftop bars) come to life at night. Given we were passing through, it would have been rude not to stop for a couple of afternoon drinks. We were loving Ox Well & Co for its gin bar and rooftop, plus Birds of a Feather in nearby Amoy Alley, but for a list of the best bars and restaurants in the area, check this out.
I can’t say that I am a fan of zoos, but I told myself I would add Singapore Zoo to this list because, from what I learned while there, it has done its bit for endangered species, it simulates natural habitats and I can see how families would love it. Singapore Zoo is a sprawling landscape that houses almost 3000 animals and there’s plenty to explore while you’re there; however, you’ll need to get a bus or taxi from the nearest MRT station because it’s well out of the way of the main city. Prefer to see animals in the wild? Me too, so perhaps wait for your South African adventure in Kruger Park or plan a trip to Swaziland if Singapore Zoo is not for you.
If the film Avatar suddenly became some kind of futuristic reality show, it would probably be set in the sci-fi surroundings of Singapore’s Gardens by the Bay. Possibly one of the most Instagrammed hangouts in Singapore, Gardens by the Bay is home to out-of-this-world ‘supertrees’ that light up the city skyline at night. You can stand among the grove’s supertrees on a suspended OCBC Skyway for a fee ($20, I think), or you can just chill amidst the serene surroundings for free and soak up the light and sound show. You can also expect to find a Floral Fantasy area, a Cloud Forest, a Flower Dome and more attractions that draw the crowds along Singapore’s famous gardens.
Ah, Marina Bay Sands: Singapore’s iconic hotel that is oh-so famous for housing the world’s largest infinity pool. If you’ve ever tried booking into Marina Bay Sands on Singapore’s F1 weekend, you’ll know that it is ridiculously out-of-budget for someone like me. However, that doesn’t mean you can’t swing by and visit the Skypark Observation Deck for the skyline views. If you’re feeling particularly fancy (we weren’t), you can book dinner at the rooftop’s Ce La Vi lounge. Alternatively, you could just skip the luxury of it all and find an awesome spot along the bay to admire the architectural masterpiece of Marina Bay Sands from below. Note: it looks particularly good at night, and even better when it’s lit up with fireworks following the Grand Prix – just another reason to book your tickets for next year.
As my Singapore Stories state: Sentosa Island is basically one giant playground for kids and adults alike. You can expect adventure activities, beach clubs, a theme park, golf courses, high-end hotels, casinos and an old fort (the fort isn’t worth visiting at the height of a humid day). Did I love Sentosa island? No; I’m more of a Duxton Hill or Kampong Glam kinda girl. But did I have an action-packed day of fun? Yes. We took the cable car to and from Singapore Harbour to Sentosa Island, ‘The State of Fun’. My two highlights from the day were (1) racing down the Skyline Luge and (2) the high-speed Revenge of the Mummy rollercoaster at the island’s Universal Studios.
Top Tip: If you read my article on Taipei or Seoul, you’ll already know I’m a big fan efficient public transport. Some of these Asian cities really know what they’re doing, and Singapore’s subway system (the MRT) is one of them; it can whizz you around the city in minutes without traumatising you with those overcrowded, claustrophobic journeys on the tubes of London or Paris. Grab a ticket and get going!
]]>Jewel Changi Airport in Singapore is a glimpse at what the future of travel looks like, and that future is emitting some serious sci-fi vibes. The new(ish) Jewel Changi is a glass-domed rainforest with a Vortex Waterfall that cascades from the rooftop, a Canopy Park with a glass-bottom walkway and a Sky Train that takes you on a scenic journey through Sheiseido Forest Valley while transporting you between terminals. And let’s not forget the Mirror Maze, the Hedge Maze and the two Sky Nets that are suspended from the dome’s ceiling – one for walking along and one for bouncing on. I could go on…
…And I will.
Typically, I leave it as late as possible before heading to an airport to avoid the boredom of waiting around – except for the fleeting few months when I held Silver Status with Emirates and actually went early to make use of the complimentary Lounge Access. However, on this occasion, I made a point of being at Changi Airport 3 hours ahead of the flight to check out whether it’s actually deserving of the hype. Just to be clear, it is deserving of every ounce of that hype, and I could – quite happily – live there. To give you a glimpse of what to expect from the best airport in the world, here are a handful of things we managed to squeeze in before boarding our flight bound for Abu Dhabi:
Jewel Changi boasts a green, urban jungle that bathes in natural sunlight and, at its core, we found the world’s largest indoor waterfall. You can walk around the 40-metre Vortex Waterfall on 5 floors to see it from different vantage points and to enjoy a leisurely stroll through a rainforest before boarding your plane. There’s a light and sound projection at the waterfall when the sun goes down, but we didn’t have time to stick around for that.
Sitting on the top floor (L5) of Jewel Changi, Canopy Garden is a 14,000 square-metre hub that will lure you in with its multiple attractions. You can dine under the trees, walk the canopy bridge or – like us – you can put adult life on pause while exploring mazes and sky nets. It costs 5 Singapore Dollars for entry to the Canopy Garden, but you’ll need to top up if you want to to try some of the best attractions that are inside it.
One of the most surprising things about Canopy Garden and all its attractions was that it was so quiet, but I imagine it won’t stay like that for long as more and more travellers head to Jewel Changi Airport early for some pre-flight downtime. We didn’t even have to queue to get a ticket to the Manulife Sky Nets (15 SGD), but at the time we didn’t realise that one was for walking and the other was for bouncing. While the bouncing Sky Nets stretch across 250 metres, they only sit at a height of 8 metres, whereas the walking Sky Nets soar above 25-metre void. The Sky Nets are essentially huge web-like trails suspended from the ceiling, so you can catch some air time and wear yourself out if you want to go straight to sleep when you finally board your flight.
When you look down from the top floor of Jewel Changi Airport, you’ll see trains passing the Vortex Waterfall and making their way through the trees, palms and shrubs of Sheiseido Forest Valley. And if that wasn’t enough, both the rainforest and the waterfall make use of collected rain water that fuels the futuristic dome. We caught the Sky Train from Jewel Changi Airport to Terminal 3 and caught our last Singaporean sunset as it left the dome and passed over the highways below.
Singapore is a melting pot of cultures, so its foodie scene spans cuisines from across the globe, and its airport foodie scene is no different. Whether you want some fast food on ‘Food Street’ or a fine-dining restaurant experience, an Insta-worthy macaroon or a High-Tea experience, you’ll find so many top places to eat inside Changi Airport. What surprised us is that even if you’re sat in a food court, there’s a peaceful tranquility is that is highly unusual for an extremely busy travel hub. Perhaps it’s the sheer size of the terminals that makes it seem quiet… or maybe people are just hiding away in the fancy spas and funky transit hotels that I haven’t even mentioned yet.
Other than the exceptionally friendly immigration staff that recommended top things to do in Changi Airport as we were entering the departure area of Terminal 3, the first thing that struck me was the breadth of retail offerings that are hidden away inside. Whether you want to grab a t-shirt in Zara or spend the big bucks in Hermes, this airport has created insane boulevards of shopping outlets to give travellers the full shopping mall experience. Given we spent most of our time checking out Jewel Changi, the only shop we made it to before boarding was 7-Eleven.
Have you ever walked through an airport and stumbled across a butterfly sanctuary? Nor had I until I flew out of Terminal 3 in Changi Airport. Yes, there is an actually butterfly garden where you can zen with vibrantly-winged insects. It’s much like a smaller version of the Butterfly Garden at Singapore Zoo, except entrance is free to this green airport retreat.
If I had more time to kill, I would have made use of the free movie theatre in Terminal 3, but I didn’t so I just snapped a picture to prove to you that this free cinema actually exists. Just more real-life evidence that Changi Airport is a traveller’s paradise. You. are. welcome.
I would happily go back to Singapore airport again. In fact, I would look forward to the opportunity just so that I could discover more of what it has to offer. A quick Google search will bring you even more lists of top things to do in Changi Airport, and I suggest you do just that if you are stopping off or flying from there anytime soon. Here are some more things to try while at the airport:
When you think about it, Singapore’s investment in Changi Airport is a smart moves that certainly solidifies its positioning as Asia’s prime travel hub. Not only has it created endless employment opportunities, but it has also set the benchmark for airports across the globe by bringing to life an innovative travel destination within a destination. Where else in the world would you see an airport featuring as a must-visit attraction in a city? Yep, Jewel Changi Airport is a must when it comes to top things to do in Singapore.
Looking for more travel inspiration? Check out top destinations from around the world.
]]>While in South America, I met up with a friend of a friend named Shannon; we got along well – probably because of our love for spontaneous adventure, and soon we found ourselves taking an impromptu flight to Rio. After a few days of partying and exploring, Shannon and I decided that Bolivia was the next stop – and that’s when things started to get a little bit crazy.
We had spent just over two days getting to Corumba on the Brazil-Bolivia border, but we made the huge mistake of getting there late at night – when everything shuts down, including border control. Just as we realised that we had landed in a Brazilian town with nowhere to stay and no possibility of crossing into Bolivia that night, a Greek man who had been “living in the area” approached us; I was skeptical of his ability to get us a room in his “friend’s guesthouse” and his “border friends” who could get us into Bolivia first thing in the morning, but it was late, we had been travelling for two days and we decided that it was safer to check out the guest house. A few minutes later, we were in the living room of a local house while the shabby-looking Greek Guy spoke to someone in the kitchen before collecting payment from us for the guesthouse owners. Before we knew it, we had a room for the night without making any formal reservation. Something definitely wasn’t right; this was someone’s bedroom in someone’s actual house, but with no real choice, we locked the door and decided it was better than being on the streets.
I can’t say I got much sleep that night, but when we did wake in the early morning, we didn’t linger. We took our bags and returned to the bus station. My friend did not have her Yellow Fever paperwork, and we thought we may need to use the Greek Guy’s “border friends” to cross without an issue, so we sat on the steps of the bus station waiting for him to see what he had to say. The next bit is a little bit hard to believe, but I am telling you that the following actually happened.
While sat on the steps, I looked up from the book I was reading and saw these cardboard boxes moving on the other side of the road; a few seconds later, the Greek Guy stood up from underneath the boxes and started to fold the cardboard away. That was the “holy sh*t” moment we needed to (1) realise that the homeless Greek Guy had just hustled money from us and a local family who had clearly agreed to give us a room for the night in their home and (2) to get up and walk (at pace without signalling alarm bells) to a the nearest local bus and jump on it. Goodbye to our Greek Guy… or so we thought.
About an hour later, we found ourselves waiting in a queue at the border so that we could finally cross into Bolivia.There was a lot of waiting around – these South American border controls are the kind where you rock up to a porter cabin, get the stamp and walk across into a new country… overly strict protocols didn’t seem to be the norm. While we were waiting, I catch sight of our Greek friend who is seemingly searching for us. Now, bear in mind that he would have had to realise that we weren’t at the bus station before catching a bus and travelling for about 20 minutes in order to find us. As he got closer to us, I muttered to Shannon, “pretend you don’t know him”, under my breath, and that’s what we did as he walked up to us and tried to convince us that we wouldn’t be able to cross the border unless we paid him. Fortunately, there were a few other travellers at the border that morning, and they looked at him with the same confusion and concern as we did had decided to fake in our attempts to get away from him. It worked.
To this day, I still can’t fathom how a man from Greece ends up sleeping on the streets of a border town in South America, but 30 minutes after this happened, the ordeal was over – for us, at least. We got through the border with no problems and momentarily celebrated our arrival in Bolivia… before encountering our next obstacle.
Our primary objective when we finally got to Bolivia was to see the salt flats of Salar De Uyuni; we wanted to get to grips with one of the most dramatic landscapes in South America. So you would, at the very least, assume that we had a plan to get there. It may surprise some, but we were winging this – absolutely winging it, so I’m not quite sure why were so disappointed when we rocked up to a shack-like ticket counter in the nearest town and they were not able to get us a bus ticket. But every problem has a solution, and a before long, we were in a car driving to an “airport”. In fairness, it looked like a shell of an airport that was in the process of being constructed, but there weren’t really any people. Again, it was odd. We sat down in a simple cafe area, and were soon introduced to a small family who seemed to be running the cafe. It was only later, when we walked a few metres down the corridor for boarding that we realised this family also seemed to be helping to run the airport. The young boy who had been helping his father to serve us food was now handing us our boarding passes and pointing at the fire escape which led us to the plane.
In hindsight, there was a lot of blind trust being given for our safety over those couple of days, but I think we were delirious with tiredness and seemed to laugh everything off while counting ourselves lucky for still making progress along the road. We weren’t able to continue on our journey when we landed in Santa Cruz so we showered, ate and slept in the city before taking on the final roads to Uyuni.
The next adventure came in the form of Bolivian buses. Picture a rundown, over-crowded bus packed with local Bolivian people crammed into seats and an aisle. Then picture Shannon and I squished onto metal seats – with me non-stop exclaiming how much pain I was experiencing in my butt bone while having my legs wedged in the air against the seat in front of me because they wouldn’t quite fit (Bolivian people seem to be relatively short). Now, hold that image and imagine this overcrowded bus coming dangerously close to cliff edges with dramatic drops. Then imagine, one week later, reading the news that a bus on that same journey actually did go off those cliff edges. Finally imagine, just as day breaks, your bus breaks down. And this single bus journey takes 26 hours when it’s only meant to take 12. And there you have it – the horrific ordeal.
We finally made it to Uyuni, went to the nearest shop to find some tablets for the altitude sickness we were experiencing, bought some wooly hats and a warm cup of tea then slept til the next morning.
While in Uyuni, we paid a visit to the nearby ‘Great Train Graveyard, also known as Bolivia’s Train Cemetery or ‘Cemeterio de Trenes’ if you’re well versed in Spanish. This Bolivian landmark is home to hundreds of abandoned trains, or locomotives, many of which date back to the early 19th Century and were imported from Britain. But why are they there, you ask? Back then, there were plans to expand Uyuni’s train network because it is a key transport hub for many connecting lines in South America; however, the plans were pulled when tensions mounted between Bolivia and neighbouring countries and industrial momentum slowed. With these Blivian landscapes subjected to some incredibly harsh elements, the trains were ultimately left in the salt desert to corrode.
Uyuni’s Train Graveyard has a fascinating history, but what is equally as interesting is that no corporation has come along to monetise or fence off the area. This meant that we were free to roam amongst the trains in a wild, natural landscape. It’s definitely worth a visit if you’re in the area.
Let me tell you one thing: the world’s largest salt flat in Salar De Uyuni is one of the most impressive landscapes that you’ll ever encounter. It was the sunniest of days even though the air was crisp when we finally got to see the beauty of the 4,000+ square miles of white, snow-looking ground that stretched into the horizon from every possible angle. Now, what is a salt flat, I hear some of you ask?
Salar de Uyuni’s salt flats are salt crust that remains from the transformation of prehistoric lakes, and it is magical. If you are there at the right time of year, there are parts that overflow with water, creating this mirror-like reflection across the plains, but this was something we missed out on. I looked up the pictures afterwards; it is a travel photographer’s dream.
Salar de Uyuni’s salt flats form one of the most extreme landscapes in all of South America, and you’ll be shocked to stumble across salt islands that are home to cacti, as well as a salt hotel that travellers now road trip to. So what does one eat while out exploring the salt flats for a day? Llama – apparently. Yep, our picnic lunch was an interesting one – eating chewy llama out of a tub. Definitely a lunch we’ll remember for a long time to come. Did we use the flat land to attempt some totally cliché pictures? You bet we did. We even bought a toy giraffe in the town beforehand to plan for the opportunity (bar the Snickers, the toy giraffe was all we could really get our hands on – this is going back a few years, prior to the evolution of the ‘Insta-traveller’).
Asides from one other quick city stop-off and an actual solo train journey across the white salt flats when Shannon and I parted ways, this pretty much sums up my Bolivian adventures… so far. Did I pretty much travel across the width of South America to visit explore Salar De Uyuni? Yes. Do I regret it? Not for one salty second.
While much of this particular South American excursion may sound like many people’s worst nightmare, this really was an adventure that I look back on fondly – despite the occasional ‘oh f*ck’ moment. I absolutely loved by time in Bolivia – I only wish that I had planned for it so that I could have explored more of the county.
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