Thanks to contributors on my previous post I have settled on dev,stop,fix etc - Cheers all!
Now I am poised to develop my stuff (a couple of rolls of 35 mm FP4 first off) I am thinking of dust
Dust and drying marks used to plague my processing back in the day - I never got around to buying a film drying cabinet to manage the dust - drying marks I had to use a squeegee and wetting agent.
This time I can afford to buy (if anyone has a spare, drop me a PM please) or there's always...
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This is on BBC iPlayer now:
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Belfast: The camera club helping to keep printed photography alive
The Central Photographic Association camera club is celebrating its 120th anniversary.
A few years, well decades ago, I coordinated and put on a series of exhibitions at the MAC in Birmingham, about 14 in total. One photographer, Ian Elsom, lived in Coalbrookdale, he cycled to and from work in the Black Country every day.
I had just committed to a 5 year project working in the Black Country, but took up his challenge to visit two locations in the Ironbridge Gorge, on my way home. The first was the Ladywood tile works, I was amazed, I made a hand-made...
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Can anyone help me?
When developing my 4×5 Kodak Tri-X 320 sheet film in HC-110 using a Stearman SP-445 tank, I consistently get this band along the top edge of the sheet that doesn't seem to develop like the rest of the negative.
Does anyone know what could be causing this?
I'm using a Zone VI 4×5 camera with a Rodenstock APO 210mm lens.
Thanks in advance for any advice.]]>
Delta 100 in home-mixed Pyrocat, Chamonix and 110mm SSXL, Imacon PII scan.
]]>Lens - Kodak Ektar 203mm f/7.7
Zebra Dry Glass Plate - ISO 2
Developer - HC110 Dilution B
Peth head mill - dry glass plate by Kevin Allan, on Flickr]]>
i recently got off e.bay after pressing the buy it now button at 02:30am a Kodak half plate model B with Kodak Ektar 8 inch f7.7 lens in Epsilon shutter both built in uk, no going back now big rabbit hole on the horizon.
At present trying to get used to using the...
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I have made a progressive journey in film photography, initially with Nikon SLR's etc then onto a Mamiya C330 which put me onto the road of Medium Format, then RB67, then RZ67 (which I still love) until I found myself with a Fuji GX680 which is a wonderful camera and I enjoy using it very much........So of course I have now...
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]]>Zebra dry glass plate (ISO 2). HC110 Dilution B
Shell arrangement by Kevin Allan, on Flickr]]>
I used Ilford dry plates a friend kindly gifted me. They were found stored in the back of a church.
Rated at ISO 3 and developed in ID-11 1+3 by inspection (23C). Dev time was around 4 mins which was the time I’d previously used at 1+1 dilution at 20C. The darkroom is a bit warm at the moment. The plates are...
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Courageously taking on the void left with the destruction of Orwo are the nice guys...
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The Sinaron came with a Linhoff lens board, but it would not fit my Intrepid Mk4, So having a 3d printer I just made and printed one. If anybody needs a Linhoff board let me know.
Flack .]]>
We all appreciate the static, deliberate beauty of a well-crafted large format print. The slow...
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I’ve been browsing the discussions here for a little while, admiring the incredible patience, craft, and detail that goes into the work shared on this forum. I am completely new to large format photography and am hoping to learn the ropes from the wealth of experience you all have.
My daily background is actually on the exact opposite end of the spectrum—I work entirely in the digital tech space. Over the past few years, I’ve been developing and experimenting with different...
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Has anyone got one lying around I can borrow before I order one from USA]]>
I work with large format - 5x4 and 10x8 in wet plate / alt processes.
Its great to have a UK based resource with such knowledgeable people here.
Thanks and chat to you all soon.
Si]]>
]]>I don't normally dabble with camera movements much, but I have a project where I want to photograph a small rectangular object and use a little perspective correction.
The object when looked at from the front and above looks like this:
The goal is to make it look like an axonometric drawing (so it will be shot at an angle). Much like this:
To start out, I just put the object head on and then tried to do some perspective correction much like looking at railway...
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