There’s something about crossing a border on foot that I’ve always loved—whether it’s a rickety bridge from Costa Rica into Panama or a frigid nighttime crossing between Thailand and Laos. For a place as compact as Gibraltar, my day trip felt unexpectedly big—views of Africa, wild macaques, and the strange delight of walking across an active airport runway. From Málaga or the Costa del Sol, it’s an easy, quirky, genuinely fun day trip.

Quick Take: Gibraltar in One Day

Gibraltar is a strange blend of red phone booths and Spanish cafés, views into Africa, monkeys, caves, and cliffside lookouts. It’s a British Overseas Territory on Spain’s southern tip—tiny (just 2.6 square miles), historically layered, and visually dramatic thanks to the Rock of Gibraltar.

• 🚗 Drive: best flexibility from Málaga
• 🚶 Cross on foot: often faster than driving
• ✈️ Runway walk: unique highlight
• 🐒 Monkeys: fun but bold—secure bags
• 👶 With kids: town is easy; the Rock is not stroller-friendly
• 💳 Pay by card: typically better value than cash euros

How to Get from Málaga to Gibraltar (Car, Bus, or Guided Tour)

There are three main ways to do a Gibraltar day trip from Málaga: drive, take the bus, or join a guided tour. We drove, since I live along the Costa del Sol, and for our group (toddler + grandparents), it was the right call.

Driving from Málaga

We drove from Benalmádena in a rental booked through Discover Cars (they provided credit so I could try out the service). It gave us the flexibility I wanted with a toddler and grandparents—especially on a day when everyone’s energy runs on a different clock. If my son had been older, we likely would’ve added a stop in the charming town of Estepona on the way back.

From Málaga, it’s roughly 1 hr 45 min to the border at La Línea. The drive from Málaga was straightforward and smooth most of the way, mostly on modern highways with no tolls on our route. The only real slowdown was a predictable bottleneck near the final town—traffic crawls there most days.

We parked on the Spanish side at Parking Público Parque del Ayuntamiento in La Línea de la Concepción. From there, it was an easy walk to the pedestrian border crossing—and it avoided the vehicle queue that can build up entering Gibraltar and (even worse) leaving in the late afternoon.

Taking the Bus from Málaga

If you don’t want to drive, ALSA and Avanza buses (check the bus timetable on Omio.com) run from Málaga to La Línea de la Concepción (near the Gibraltar border).

• Pros: affordable, simple, no parking stress.
• Cons: fixed schedule and more stops (up to 3 hours one way)—less ideal if you’re working around naps or traveling with older relatives who may want to move at their own pace.

Travel Tip: If you’re visiting with kids (or mixing ages in a group), a car makes Gibraltar easier. You can arrive earlier, leave when you want, and avoid being locked into a bus schedule. If you’re set on taking the bus, the Malaga bus station offers luggage lockers for about €4.

Joining an Organized Tour

If you prefer a structured day—or you want a guide to handle the Rock logistics—an organized tour is worth it. This is often the easiest option for travelers without a car, or anyone who wants to maximize sites like the caves and tunnels without navigating transit on their own.

Crossing the Border & Getting Around Gibraltar

From the Ayuntamiento parking lot, it was about a 10-minute walk to the border. We crossed mid-week in May around 10:30 a.m. and breezed through with no crowds—weekends and summer can be slower, especially for cars. Bring your passport—you’ll go through border control and then walk across Gibraltar’s airport runway to enter.

Traveling with a child and one parent? Read this.
Because our day felt so casual, I didn’t bring my son’s travel authorization papers (I only had scans on my phone). Border staff asked for them and made it clear digital copies weren’t sufficient. Since my son was born and lives in Spain but travels on a U.S. passport, they were attentive about a child crossing with one parent. I was ultimately waved through—but next time I’ll bring printed copies.

After crossing, we took a bus to the cable car base. If you book your cable car ticket ahead, there’s a free shuttle bus in most seasons (about every 30 minutes) just past passport control—cross the street and you’ll see it. The municipal bus is another option (about €2.50 per adult), but it winds through town with many stops before ending near the cable car.

Either way, taking the bus saves your energy for later. On the way back, we walked from the base of the Rock to the border—mostly downhill and manageable.

Things to Do in One Day in Gibraltar

Gibraltar can be done in a tight day—but how much you’ll cover depends on mobility, weather, and whether you’re wrangling a stroller.

We bought the full Nature Reserve combo tickets online (be sure you’re booking from the official site), assuming we’d make use of everything included. In hindsight, with a toddler and grandparents, it was overkill—we used only a fraction of what was included.

Ride the Cable Car to the Rock Summit

We went up straight away, partly because the cable car stops running earlier than most people expect. We’d bought tickets online, and the queue moved quickly—about 20 minutes. The ride is short (around 6 minutes) and a bit crowded, but the views open up dramatically once you’re at the top.

We squeezed in with a lightweight travel stroller, but I wouldn’t attempt this with anything larger—there are stairs at both stations.

Enjoy Coffee with a View at the Top of the World Café

The Top of the World Café was calmer and more pleasant than we expected for such a busy viewpoint. The wide terrace over it gives you one of the best 360° views in Gibraltar—sea cliffs, the town below, and Morocco across the water. My parents settled in with pastries, my toddler ran laps around the tables once he finished his cinnamon-dusted babyccino, and I sat near the glass watching ferries move across the Strait. The café sits outside the ticketed Nature Reserve area, so it’s an easy stop even if you skip the full pass.

Wander the Old Fortifications

From the cable car station, take the higher path to the left for a quick wander through the derelict fortifications—this stretch doesn’t require entering the ticketed Nature Reserve.. The concrete bunkers and lookout positions feel rugged and cinematic, and it’s a fun place to scramble around.

This is also where we met our monkey.

We’d parked the stroller for just a moment… and came back to find a macaque sitting inside it, having tossed our jackets out and bitten clean through our 1.5-liter water bottle. Water was spraying everywhere, a small crowd had gathered to film it, and I didn’t even see the monkey at first until I was almost face-to-face with him. My mom shrieked. The monkey scattered.

Lesson learned: secure more than snacks. Gibraltar enforces steep fines for feeding the monkeys—posted signage warns of penalties running into the thousands of euros—and they’ll happily unzip bags, grab bottles, and rummage through anything that’s left unattended. Our food was sealed in my backpack—I just didn’t expect a water bottle to be the target.

We saw monkeys clustered around the cable car station and fortifications, not tucked away on remote trails.

Wonder at the Skywalk Glass Platform

The Skywalk glass platform hangs over the cliffs with sweeping views. My toddler and I loved it; my parents refused to step onto the glass. The elevator access is a big plus—it’s one of the easiest “wow” viewpoints on the Rock (Nature Reserve ticket required).

Walk Main Street & Shop for Souvenirs

After descending by cable car, we wandered Main Street. My toddler napped in the stroller, which was perfect—the town is flat and stroller-friendly.

Souvenirs were much cheaper here than at the summit. We bought a little snow globe and a long-armed hugging monkey that became the mascot of the day. The shopping streets are pleasant, but more of a wind-down than a must-do.

Fish & Chips (and an easy kid reset)

My parents grabbed fish and chips, and my toddler and I shared the chips (we’re vegetarian)—simple, comforting, and exactly what everyone needed after a big day.

From there, we walked slowly back toward the border, warming up in the afternoon light. Around 5 p.m., the vehicle queue was enormous—another reason I’d park in Spain and walk.

Even without rushing, these stops filled most of our day—trying to add more would have felt crowded.

If You Have More Time in Gibraltar

(Or you’re visiting without a stroller)

Note: Most attractions on the Upper Rock—including caves, tunnels, and suspension bridges—require a Nature Reserve ticket. Lower Gibraltar sights like Europa Point, Catalan Bay, and Main Street can be visited without one.

• St. Michael’s Cave — dramatic limestone formations and a colorful light show inside the Rock.
• Great Siege Tunnels — hand-carved tunnels with panoramic viewpoints and deep military history.
• Moorish Castle — remnants of Gibraltar’s early fortifications, with portions accessible inside the Upper Rock.
• Windsor Suspension Bridge — a short, scenic bridge walk high above the cliffs.
• Mediterranean Steps Hike — a strenuous but iconic route for fit adults or older teens.
• Europa Point Lighthouse — the southernmost point, with calm views across the Strait.
• Catalan Bay — a colorful beach village, best in warm weather.

We skipped these this time to keep the day relaxed with a toddler and grandparents.

Practical Tips for a Smooth Málaga → Gibraltar Day Trip

These are the details I wish I’d known before going—especially helpful for families and day-trippers. A few of these caught us off guard, even after planning.

My Toddler’s Favorite Things

• Walking across the airport runway
• Riding the cable car
• Running around the Top of the World Café terrace
• Standing on the Skywalk glass floor
• Watching the monkeys (from a safe distance)
• The long-armed, blue monkey toy we brought home

Currency & Payments

• Official currency: Gibraltar Pound (GBP), which is pegged to the British pound
• Euros are accepted, but often at poor exchange rates
• Best value: pay by card in GBP
• No need to exchange cash in advance

Stroller & Accessibility Notes

• Stroller-friendly: town center, Main Street, buses, border crossing
• Not stroller-friendly: most of the Rock, fort paths, cable car station stairs
• A baby carrier is significantly easier at the summit
• A lightweight travel stroller is doable, but inconvenient

Parking & Border Notes

• Park on the Spanish side in La Línea de la Concepción
• 5–10 minute walk to the pedestrian border crossing
• Vehicle queues peak around 5 p.m. and can stretch far into town
• Walking across the border is consistently faster than driving

Cable Car Logistics

• Buy tickets online to reduce waiting
• Expect closures in high winds—check the forecast
• Ride time: about 6 minutes
• Bus from border to cable car: ~20 minutes

Best Time to Visit

• Mid-week and shoulder seasons are ideal
• The summit is cooler and windier than the coast—bring a light layer
• Cruise-ship days bring heavier crowds

Is Gibraltar Worth Visiting?

We probably won’t rush back—but we were all glad we went.

Gibraltar packs an unusual amount into a small space: wildlife, cliffside views, layered history, and the novelty of crossing an international border on foot. It’s especially compelling if you dream of standing on a cliff looking straight toward Africa.

For families or mixed-age groups, the key is pacing. Skip the full-access tickets, prioritize the views, enjoy a coffee at the top, watch the monkeys from a respectful distance, then wander back down through town. Treated as a relaxed day trip—not a checklist—Gibraltar made for a memorable detour from the Costa del Sol.

Frequently Asked Questions

This travel story (A Little Border Crossing… A Day Trip to Gibraltar from Málaga ) first appeared on the A Little Adrift Travel
Blog, thank you for following the journey. :)

I spent the better part of a week in Rome this past spring with my 3.5-year-old son and my 60-something parents. Having done all the things in Rome while backpacking Europe in my 20s, I went in with modest expectations, a lot of snacks, and a toddler who has specific ideas about the pace and sites fit for our trip (spoiler alert: He wanted to find playgrounds).

Over our six days though, both my parents and my kiddo found their own kind of magic in the Eternal City. My parents were often content to sit on a terrace sipping coffee, and my son is an avowed lover of “ding dongs” (church bells), large fountains, and gelato—so Rome was a hit.

Exploring Rome together was one of our better multi-generational family trips (Paris in winter with a baby was less fun). Here are the things my parents and toddler genuinely loved (and still talk about), plus ideas throughout to make a trip to Rome easier for everyone.

Family-Friendly Things We All Loved in Rome (Even the Toddler)

1. Riding the “Big Bike” in Villa Borghese

📍 Pedal-assist “Bici Pincio” bike rental in the Borghese Gardens, near the Spanish Steps

This was a highlight of the week for everyone—all three generations rode together through the shady park on a giant quad-style electric bike. I drove, but there was a kids’ steering wheel, and pedals for all of the grownups.

My son gripped his tiny steering wheel, shouting “faster!” every few minutes, and pointed out every dog and fountain we passed. He delighted when we got stuck in a ditch and I had to haul us out. But mostly, we all enjoyed the breeze as we as we coasted down Villa Borghese’s wide, shady lanes. We also cruised past sweeping vistas of the city skyline, where my son delighted as the church bells’ song echoed across the city at the top of the hour.

We got off the bike to explore a few corners of the park, but we mostly just enjoyed the ride. It was a bargain at €25 for an hour on the four-seater (and €15 for a two-seater). Once it was over, we found a shady spot near a busker rocking out on the guitar (my son and my dad were entranced), unpacked a small picnic I had picked up from the market on our walk to Villa Borghese, and enjoyed the vibes.

2. Sampling Gelato Every Day

📍 Everywhere

This is an obvious for any trip to Rome—with or without kids—but we really “primed the pump” for my kiddo. He knew that when all of the churches and touring were done for the day, he could try a new gelato flavor—his favorite part of the day. He sampled strawberry, mango, stracciatella, and cinnamon. The adults enjoyed the classics: stracciatella, hazelnut, and lemon, with a few out-there flavors thrown in there to keep things interesting.

As for picking a gelateria to go—it’s so important to consult Google maps. I visit Italy frequently since we live close (Spain) and friends live in Sicily, so my standards are high. Many gelaterias have fancy, eye-catching gelato display cases—avoid! These are usually overpriced and touristic.

If you spend a few minutes using Google maps, you can find a gelateria even locals would visit—even near the most touristy spots. For example: Nearly every gelato shop near the Spanish Steps was overpriced, gimmicky, and poorly rated on Google Maps, but La Strega Nocciola knocked it out of the park.

3. Engaging in a Colosseum Treasure Hunt

📍 Colosseum with a printable scavenger hunt

Let’s be honest: Without the treasure map, interest in the Colosseum would’ve lasted five minutes for my three-year-old. But another blogger’s free printable scavenger hunt completely saved the experience. He clutched his “map,” declared himself an explorer, and gleefully ticked off lions and gates and a “big, big cross.”

That interest in checking off items on the map gave my parents time to take a fairly sedate pace through the long hallway of artifacts and information. We visited in early May, so it wasn’t too crowded (also thanks to the timed entry tickets you have to buy ahead of time). We spent about an hour inside, and no one felt rushed. We were also all losing steam and ready for dinner, so the Colosseum felt like a great way to end our first day in Rome.

Parent Tip: Print something interactive before you go. The Colosseum is big, crowded, and mostly rubble—a tough sell without a toddler-friendly hook. Same goes with the Roman Forum, but there’s also a printable for that. Oh, and the Colosseum has an elevator if you bring a stroller, or if your parents are low-mobility (my mom has a bum knee) and need a lift upstairs.

4. Admiring Rome’s Many Public Fountains

Most of my son’s biggest grins in Rome came from the city’s fountains—the grand ones and the utilitarian ones.

At the Trevi Fountain, he threw in penny after penny (six in total) and leaned in to touch the water every time we passed, despite the many signs (and side-eyes). Each visit brought a new wish and a hopeful glance—he was convinced that one more coin might unlock something magical.

At the base of the Spanish Steps, the lower fountains were less crowded and a bit more forgiving for kids who just wanted to lean over and touch the water spray. No one scolded him here, so we let him splash for a few minutes before munching on fresh roasted chestnuts from a nearby cart.

But it was Rome’s little drinking fountains—the nasoni—that completely stole his heart. He first spotted a teenager plug the spout to make a thin stream arc from the top hole, and after that, he had to try every one we passed. He got soaked more than once perfecting his “water trick,” but it was pure joy. And for us, it was a welcome way to cool off in the May heat—and to refill our water bottles with aqueduct-fed water straight from the source.

He was so proud when he finally figured out how to drink from the arc on his own. Back home in Spain, he was genuinely disappointed to discover that most fountains don’t work that way.

Note: Rome’s nasoni fountains are scattered all over the city and pour clean, cold drinking water—bring a reusable bottle and a dry shirt if your kid’s likely to go all in. And the Trevi area gets packed, so visit early in the morning or after dinner for a bit more space to toss in a coin or two.

5. Making a Toddler-Tolerable Vatican Visit

📍 St. Peter’s Basilica + Piazza San Pietro

Let’s be honest—toddlers and Vatican Museums don’t really mix. We skipped the full museum tour and Sistine Chapel entirely (it was closed for the Conclave). But we did make time for a walk through St. Peter’s Basilica and Piazza San Pietro. The wide-open square gave my kiddo space to roam while we admired the architecture and soaked in the significance.

The real win? The bells. We happened to be there when they rang out overhead, and my toddler’s eyes lit up. Meanwhile, my parents got the spiritual and historical dose they were hoping for without anyone melting down inside the museum halls.

Bonus: If your child still naps in a stroller, that would be the best time to tackle the museums, especially if you have your heart set on the Sistine Chapel. We used the free Rick Steves audio guide for St. Peter’s Basilica (he offers one for the Sistine Chapel too) and deeply enjoyed the history and commentary. Meanwhile—it was the holes in the floors with grates covering them that kept my toddler entertained. He was obsessed with watching the people in the crypts walk by down below.

6. Bonus: Exploring Ostia Antica as a Day Trip

We took the train to Ostia Antica and it was a surprising hit. This Roman ruin site is quiet, stroller-manageable, and full of space to explore. My son could run ahead, my dad took his time photographing everything, and my mom and I wandered together reading the info boards. It was a relaxing day out of the city and only a 40-minute train ride.

You can read the full post on my main blog: A Toddler-Friendly Day Trip to Ostia Antica

What Helped Make Rome a Win

Where We Stayed in Rome as a Family

Our hotel near Campo de’ Fiori had a communal kitchen and two double rooms with a connecting door. Il Tempio Della Capitale made a great base for mid-day rests.

Our Favorite Kid-Friendly Eats in Rome

Breakfast Win in Trastevere: Mammò Trastevere on Piazza di Giovanni della Malva was a favorite. Good coffee, affordable Western-style breakfast, and the nearby plaza offered enough space to entertain my squirmy kid while we waited for the food.

Chestnuts at the Spanish Steps: Fresh roasted chestnuts from a vendor near the base kept all of us happy (and the hangry at bay) before we rode the nearby elevator to the top of the steps (and then onward to the nearby Villa to ride the big bikes).

Small Wins & Tips for Success

• Low-key starts were key. We always had a morning snack in the hotel fridge for my son—yogurt, fruit, toast—meaning we never felt rushed to get out the door. We started most days at Mammò Trastevere just over the river from our hotel, then we were well-located to explore. Most days also included a mid-afternoon break to encourage a toddler nap in the stroller. We aimed for one main activity per day (plus a park or snack break), and that rhythm really worked for the multigenerational aspect (even my dad needed a nap one day).
• Getting Around: We walked everywhere in Rome. Public transport + strollers = chaos. The buses and trains work well though, and we used both for our Ostia Antica day trip.
• Use Google Maps to cluster activities and plan breaks. I combed through Google Maps and other travel blogs for restaurant recommendations, top-rated gelaterias, and historic sites hidden down alleyways. I starred all of the recommendations on my map. Then, as we walked around, I always had a fun way to break up walks longer than 20 minutes. And it allowed us to easily pivot when hangry.

• Slot in fun stuff around the adult stops: We also visited the Pantheon—my son was unimpressed, but my parents were floored. We bought tickets ahead of time to avoid the crushing lines—we had no wait. And with snacks in hand and a bit of stroller pacing, it worked out for all of us.
• Expect a different Rome by season. Spring gave us warm afternoons, cool mornings, and crowds that felt manageable. Summer, though, is another story—heat radiates off the stones, shade is scarce, and everything moves slower with a toddler in tow. If you’re visiting June–August, plan early starts, long siestas, and any big sights before 10 a.m. I suffered from mild heat stroke my first time in Rome 20 years ago after not hydrating properly during July sight-seeing.
• Bathrooms require strategy. Tactical wees at every stop were essential. Public restrooms are rare, so we relied on cafés, gelaterias, and museum stops—basically anywhere we bought a snack or coffee. If traveling with little kids, don’t pass up a bathroom you see.
• Stroller notes: Rome’s cobblestones are rough. We brought a lightweight travel stroller and made it work, but something with bigger wheels and better suspension would’ve helped. Ours came in handy for midday naps in cool, echoey churches or shady spots. (I used a mesh Ergobaby Omni 360 carrier for years, and I’d recommend it for babies and small toddlers)
• Day Trip Bonus: We took the train to Ostia Antica—easy, low crowds, stroller-manageable, and full of space to explore. You can read the full post here.

Would We Visit Rome With a Toddler Again?

Rome was more toddler-friendly than I expected, especially since we let go of any sightseeing checklist and followed the group’s energy instead. We skipped the Vatican tour in favor of a wander with the free Rick Steves audio guide (great decision), kept our days short, and built in lots of snack stops. Although I had done my research, the bikes were one of those things I’m surprised no one else mentions as a kid-friendly activity in Rome. It was truly a hit for us.

Rome works best if you accept that you’re visiting to soak it in, not check off every major sight. That mindset shift made all the difference for us. I’d go back in a heartbeat with a kid of any age.

This travel story (A Little Family Travel… Rome With a Toddler (and Grandparents in Tow) ) first appeared on the A Little Adrift Travel
Blog, thank you for following the journey. :)

On a five-day trip to Rome with my toddler and 69-year-old parents, finding the right day trip took me hours of research. We wanted something close, low-stress, walkable, and, well, cool. It needed to address why we were in Rome in the first place: for the history.

After spending a full day exploring Ostia Antica with my toddler and parents, I can confidently say: This was the perfect day trip from Rome for our family.

Why Day Trip to Ostia Antica?

Just 30 minutes from Rome, Ostia Antica is one of the best-preserved ancient Roman cities—it’s a quieter, more approachable Pompeii. I couldn’t wrap my head around the time commitment needed to visit Pompeii from Rome (I’ve visited it previously and believe is incredible). But with my parents and toddler in tow, it was simply too much round-trip travel time for a single day. The villas in Tivoli were a serious contender for our day trip, but the need for long walks and taxis between the villas meant Ostia Antica just made more sense.

Ostia Antica was once a bustling port city at the mouth of the Tiber River, and it’s now a sprawling archaeological park with welcoming ancient streets, well-preserved tiles and frescoes, and even a Roman theater.

What made it great for our family:

• 🚼 Wide open spaces for my toddler to explore safely
• 👟 Mostly flat walking paths with benches all of us used to rest
• 📸 Beautiful photo spots around every corner
• 🌳 Shade and greenery for breaks and picnics

And unlike the chaos at the Colosseum or Forum the day before, we weren’t jostling for space—it was peaceful, uncrowded, and still filled with Roman History.

Why We Skipped Pompeii and Tivoli

Pompeii is incredible, but requires hours of travel and more intense walking—too much for my toddler and parents. Tivoli looks beautiful, but the villas are spread out, and getting between them involves taxis or long uphill walks. Ostia Antica hit the sweet spot: immersive ruins, close to Rome, and walkable for all of us.

What to See at Ostia Antica (Even with Little Kids)

We spent around three hours wandering the ruins, stopping often to let my kiddo explore and giving my parents plenty of breaks in the shade. Then we spent an hour between the small museum and café, which made for a slow but interesting day.

The Necropolis

Don’t rush past the graveyard near the front gate—it was one of our family’s favorite spots.

The small tombs, low arches, and maze-like layout make it surprisingly fun to explore. My toddler darted through passageways while my mom followed him. I loved seeing the carvings up close, and my dad relaxed under a tree for a while just taking in the peaceful atmosphere. This section offers a quiet, shaded start to the visit—and it’s a great time to read (or listen to) the history before walking deeper into the ruins.

The Roman Theater

One of the most intact ruins onsite, the theater seats 3,500 and still has great acoustics. It was under renovations while we were there, otherwise my toddler would have surely run up and down the steps.

The Baths of Neptune

Famous for its black-and-white mosaic floors, the bath complex at Ostia Antica made for a fun wander.

The Museum & Its Frescoes

After wandering the ruins, we cooled off inside the small on-site museum—honestly, I wasn’t expecting much, but it was a highlight. My dad had mentioned the frescoes as one reason he wanted to go to Pompeii.

The frescoes at Osteo Antica are better: vivid reds, deep blues, and delicate figures that somehow survived 2,000 years of history and weather. I found these significantly better preserved than Pompeii.

It’s a short visit—20–30 minutes, tops—but well worth it. The museum also has statues, mosaics, and everyday objects that offered needed context to the ruins. For the adults in our group, the museum offered a picture of how this ancient site once rivaled Rome in complexity and culture.

For kids, it’s just the right size to point out a few cool things, have them pose like a few statues, and then go back to the free-roaming grass. My blood pressure spiked a bit inside with my high-energy toddler, and I ended up putting him in the stroller with some dried fruit for 10 minutes to keep his hands busy and off of the tipsy statues.

Tip: The museum is included in your entry ticket. The restrooms and shaded benches outside are perfect for a midday break.

Other Things to See

• Apartment Blocks & Shops: My parents enjoyed this section, but I sat it out while my toddler napped. You can wander into multi-story apartment buildings and storefronts that feel like time capsules from 2,000 years ago.
• The Forum: This is a classic Roman centerpiece you’d expect in any set of ruins, complete with temples, columns, and a palpable sense of history. Without the crowds of central Rome, we enjoyed this a lot.

🎧 Bonus Tip: Use the Rick Steves Audio Guide

Instead of hiring a tour guide, we followed Rick Steves’ free Ostia Antica audio tour, which walks you through the key sites with just enough historical context to keep it interesting—without slowing down the pace to frustrate my kiddo. You can also download a map that matches the audio route, which helped us stay on track and not miss anything important. Rather than use the buggy Rick Steves Audio Europe app, I just downloaded the audio MP3 here to all of our phones beforehand.

Tip: Download both the audio and the map before you go—there’s no Wi-Fi inside the ruins and cell service can be spotty.

How to Get to Ostia Antica from Rome

Getting to Ostia Antica is dead simple and ridiculously cheap—no car or tour needed.

🎟️ You can use a regular metro ticket (BIT) for the entire journey—just validate it once and you’re set. As of 2025, it costs just € 1.50 each way.

🚆 By Train (Best Option)

• From Rome, take Metro Line B to Piramide Station or take the bus to Piramide Station
• Transfer to the Roma-Lido commuter train
• Ride to Ostia Antica station (about 25 minutes) (often standing-room only)
• From the station, it’s a roughly 10 minute walk to the archaeological site via a pedestrian overpass and down some quiet streets.

🚗 By Car (Optional)

There’s parking available if you have a rental car, but honestly, public transport is easier and faster.

What to Bring

• Water: When it’s hot, you’ll be glad to have a refillable bottle—there’s a sidewalk fountain for refills between the train station and the entrance.
• Snacks: A small cafeteria-style café near the museum has limited but decent options. When we visited, they had a white asparagus lasagna (vegetarian), ham sandwiches, grilled vegetables, and one other (non-vetetarian) hot dish. Don’t count on a full lunch menu—bring snacks.
• Hat & sunscreen: There’s shade, but not everywhere. Use a quality high-factor sunscreen (this is my fav) and a wide-brimmed hat.
• Comfortable shoes: It’s a big site and though there are great grassy areas, the cobblestone and pebbled streets wouldn’t work well with flip flops.
• Stroller: Despite what others say, it’s not very stroller-friendly—a baby carrier (we used the mesh Ergobaby Omni 360 for years) would be easier on the many uneven stones and paths. I brought our lightweight travel stroller and although it was great for nap time, I could not push it through most of the archeological site with my toddler actually in it—the wheels get stuck within seconds in every cobble and stone.

If you’re planning a trip to Rome with family, Ostia Antica blends history, calm, and adventure. It offered immersive Roman history, yet it was compact enough for us enjoy in half a day.

We spent about four hours exploring at a leisurely pace—with plenty of snack breaks, photo ops, and time to let my toddler roam free. Wondering what else we did? Here are 5 Things My Toddler Loved in Rome.

This travel story (A Little Day Trip… Why We Skipped Pompeii for Ostia Antica ) first appeared on the A Little Adrift Travel
Blog, thank you for following the journey. :)

When I bought my two-month Eurail pass on a whim (and during a great sale), I had no firm plans for this trip with my toddler son. But I quickly decided it was financially advantageous—and fun—if I tried to hit as many of the most scenic train routes in Europe as possible.

That’s how I found the Bergen to Oslo train journey—it promised passage through some of Europe’s most breathtaking landscapes on a route famed for stunning vistas and serene beauty.

Another bonus? It’s virtually the only of Europe’s famed train journeys featuring a family car and play room to occupy little kids during its roughly seven-hour run time. If you’ve ever traveled with tiny humans, seven hours isn’t a relaxing prospect if you’re shoved into small seats trying to keep them happy and quiet, so as not to disturb the rest of the travelers.

You can understand then why I was thrilled when we set out from Bergen, leaving behind its picturesque mountains and fjords. I’m a single mom, and I had meticulously planned our 10 days in Norway to include this as more than a transport day—which I usually write off—this train itself is purported to be a gateway to a world where nature unfolds in its most pristine form. I was going to have the chance to immerse in the natural beauty that defines Norway, and to discover whether this train ride lived up to its reputation.

Why the Bergen to Oslo Train Ride?

Taking the Bergen to Oslo train journey, known as the Bergensbanen, isn’t merely about transitioning from one city to another—if you just wanted to get to the other city, you could fly. Instead, it offers the chance to witness a living museum of natural beauty and human perseverance while riding the highest mainline railway in Northern Europe.

Stretching 308 miles, the Oslo to Bergen rail journey unwinds across some of Europe’s most challenging landscapes—and also some its most stunning. Every time we emerged from a tunnel we entered scenes that seem conjured from a painter’s wildest dreams.

Constructed between 1875 and 1909, the Bergensbanen is a fascinating testament to human ambition and engineering prowess. Imagine the Herculean effort required to carve over 180 tunnels through unforgiving gneiss rock, to stand strong against relentless winter storms, and to secure funding for a project that many deemed impossible.

As the train ascends from Bergen, the scenery unfolded and changed like a kaleidoscope, transitioning from the deep turquoise of Alpine lakes to the stark, windswept beauty of shrubbery above the treeline (when you reach 1200 meters above sea level in Finse), before descending into Oslo’s verdant valleys.

Train Amenities and Tips

If you’re booking journey on the train, here’s what you need to know going in either direction between Oslo and Bergen.

Seats

The standard seats are well-maintained and comfortable, offering a pleasant travel experience. The time flies by given the views.

That said, first class plus seats are nicer—the seats are comfier and more spacious, making the upgrade worthwhile for those with the budget to splurge. Either way though, there’s really only the barest of recline in either class.

All of the seats have fold-down tray tables, or you can book a four-seater if you’re in a group and have a large table between you.

Power Plugs and Wifi

Each seat is equipped with power plugs, so it was easy keep my devices charged throughout the journey. Wifi connectivity is available but spotty given the number of long tunnels you’ll pass through. Don’t count on a video call working, but it’s good enough to text with friends or send emails.

Cafe Car

The cafe car offers large bay windows and comfortable seating. The tea and coffee are decent, and the food options range from some typical train fare (especially by the end of the journey) to more locally-sourced options like smoked pepper salmon with potato salad, green beans and broccoli tops, etc. By the end of the train during our journey all that was left was snacks like muffins and chips. If you buy a sandwich and snacks in Bergen or Oslo first, you’ll be thankful for your foresight, but you won’t starve either way.

The only advantage to plus first class seats, besides being slightly nicer, is free tea and coffee, which you can easily purchase in the cafe car.

Luggage Storage

Ample luggage storage is available on the train, with designated areas for larger bags and overhead racks for smaller items. Store your belongings securely to avoid any inconvenience during your journey for you or other passengers.

The Bergen Railway Family Car, Explained

Traveling with children, especially as a single parent, makes ever journey both an adventure and a challenge. I loved the family car on the Olso to Bergen train and it’s one of the main reasons I was able to enjoy the train’s scenic vistas so much.

During my trip in early June, the family car was half-full and welcoming, and the soft play area was both fun and safe. Another single mom and her daughter, and a small toddler and his mom were the only others using the play room during that seven-hour journey, so it was relaxed and low-stress.

The Soft Play Area

The kids area of the family car is a good sized with cute nooks that my toddler just loved. There is a ladder and crawl tunnel, which helped get out his energy, and soft, padded cushions covered everything. My son used the small cushioned squares to assemble towers, to practice jumping, and generally keep busy rearranging things.

Besides a couple of random, non-English books on the shelf, the room was otherwise empty. Just a space, no toys. And the room’s TV was not working in summer 2023, but the other moms and I had brought plenty of books and toys. Usually, the TV plays cartoons with the sound off, but our under-twos never noticed it was missing.

The windows in this room are not as clean/clear as in the other areas, which was a tad disappointing since my son was too small to be in the room alone. I had to poke out of the room to snap photos from the huge bay window across from the playroom.

The Family Car’s Amenities

The family car’s thoughtful design includes a large bathroom with a changing table, and huge spaces for stroller parking—these are free but must be booked separately.

The seats in this train car are incredibly spacious, and some parents were able to park small travel strollers in the seat row while their toddler napped.

You’ll also get spotty but serviceable Wi-Fi, power plugs under each seat, hooks, overhead storage, and space to stow jackets and coats.

And there are huge cubbies for luggage storage at the front and back of the family car.

Tips for Family Travelers

Book your seats and pram space.

If traveling with a pram, secure a “space reservation” so you can park and secure the pram in the huge space available. This is ideal for those traveling with little babies who sleep in larger prams. On our half-empty train, I had no problem using one of the front-row seats to park my son while he napped and watch the landscape unfold around me.

Pack fun activities.

I brought an array of activities—sticker books, paint with water, and many books. The other little girl had some small wooden stacking blocks and the little boy’s mom supplied toy cars. Together, they were thoroughly entertained throughout the trip.

Bring your own food and drink.

I bought snacks and sandwiches in Bergen and we enjoyed a feast on the move. As vegetarians, this was a must, but also just cheaper and tastier. Things like grapes, croissants, bananas, raisins, a small jug of milk, and a huge bottle of water made the journey feel normal for my son, and kept us both fed on things other than plastic-wrapped junk food.

Is the Oslo to Bergen train worth it?

The Oslo to Bergen train is consistently rated as one of Europe’s most scenic train journeys for good reason. Although it’s a long day on the train, it’s worth spending that time to soak in the natural beauty of Norway. So yes, whether you’re solo, traveling with kids, or a couple vacationing, it’s worth seeing this region of Norway from the train window.

Ticketing and Planning Your Journey

Many travelers take this as part of Norway in a Nutshell or similar tours, but if you’re independently traveling in Norway, it’s dead simple to take this train in either direction, from Oslo to Bergen or Bergen to Oslo. I found cheap flights into Bergen from Zurich, and then home to Barcelona (my homebase) from Oslo, so I planned our entire route through Norway around that start and end point.

Many travelers journeying from Oslo also choose this route because you can get off the train in Myrdal and take the famed Flam Railway. I would have absolutely done this if my son had been older.

Booking Tickets

You have two options. Most travelers will use online booking, but if you’re using a Eurail or Interrail pass like we did, you have to call and make these reservations ahead. Unlike some of the scenic trains in Europe, I did not have to pay for my seats on the Bergen to Oslo train, I just had to secure the seat reservation by phone, and activate the trip in my app.

Online Booking

Book tickets through the official website of the Norwegian State Railways (Vy). The platform is user friendly and allows you to select the family car option. Don’t use passthrough booking sites—some are outright ripoffs, others just charge a steep premium. Through Vy you’ll have access to the cheapest prices, including if there are any discounted minipris tickets available on your date and time (these can be a lot cheaper!).

Always book your tickets in advance—at least 30 days, but they open 90 days ahead—especially if you’re aiming for the family car during the high summer travel season, as these spots can fill up quickly.

On which side should you sit?

The difference is marginal really, since you can get up and look out of windows on either side, but the going advice is that from Oslo to Bergen you sit on the left—but views are better on the right for the first and last hour.

Which Train Should You Take?

The train takes roughly between 6.5 hours to 7.5 hours (slightly varied depending on which direction you take), so most travelers should book tickets on the morning train—you’ll have the best views during full daylight, and it gets dark early in the winter. This is true for any traveler, but especially families with children, since you’ll get into your destination in time to check into your hotel, get dinner, and still get the kids to bed at a decent time.

There is a sleeper train overnight, but reviews are mixed about the amenities, and you’ll miss all the views—only do this if you’re keen to just get between the two cities.

Other Ways to Get Between Oslo and Bergen

If you’re in it for the journey, take the train—it leaves and arrives in the city centers and is gorgeous. But if you want more flexibility, or to maximize your time, you have three other options:

Flying

Pros: The flight is quick, taking just 55 minutes, and with over 20 flights daily, it offers flexibility.

Cons: It lacks the scenic views of the train journey, is less environmentally friendly, and will still take hours once you factor in getting to and from the airport, and through airport security.

Driving

Pros: Driving offers complete flexibility to explore attractions like Flåm and Vøringsfossen waterfall. You can take scenic routes like Hardangervidda and make stops at places like Folgefonna glacier or Voss.

Cons: It’s time-consuming (7-8 hours) and requires dealing with potentially challenging driving conditions.

Bus

Pros: You’ll have some pretty views of Norway’s mountains and scenic landscapes without the need to drive.

Cons: At around 9.5 hours, it’s longer than the train, lacks the comfort of train amenities, and will miss some of the most breathtaking places the train goes but where there are no roads.

This travel story (A Little Adventure… Enjoying Norway’s Most Scenic Train Ride in the Family Car ) first appeared on the A Little Adrift Travel
Blog, thank you for following the journey. :)

Although known as a mega foodie destination, Oaxaca, Mexico is not a great spot for vegetarians; the food culture here is heavy on the pork. By the end of my time living in Oaxaca, I ended up cooking at home most days, or dining almost exclusively at the handful of vegan and vegetarian specific spots.

Since I usually love eating street food while I travel, this was a change of pace. Being prepared is the best way to tackle Oaxaca’s food scene: carry your own nuts and fruits for emergencies; save the best of Oaxaca’s vegetarian spots on your Google Maps; learn how to order your food vegetarian in Spanish.

Beyond that, use my extensive advice below to understand what foods always have lard (pork fat) in them (it’s way more foods than you think), and what foods you can safely order anywhere in Oaxaca.

How to Eat Vegetarian Food in Oaxaca

My key advice for vegetarians visiting Oaxaca, Mexico is to bring patience and diligence. Ask specific questions about your food—especially street food—and look out for lard and meat broths in sauces and corn-based dishes. While there are street foods you can eat, use the recommended restaurants and dishes as your starting point.

As a vegetarian, there are a lot of caveats to the food scene in Oaxaca and it really does help if you speak Spanish before you eat street food. Without Spanish, there’s little chance that you are guaranteed vegetarian street eats, or even vegetarian restaurant eats if you are outside of the city center.

Servers at the restaurants in the city center usually speak English and will often understand a request for vegetarian food. At the nicer restaurants, they will always understand it—but these restaurants are pricier, so it’s a budget saver (and tastier) if you can eat at least one meal a day on the streets.

At street stalls, vegetarianism is not understood. They understand the word vegetariano, but every aspect of what that entails is simply not a part of the local culture. Oaxaca’s indigenous and long-running food culture is deeply entrenched; culturally, vegetarianism is just not understood.

There are two main things you’ll find in your food in Oaxaca, specifically: pork lard and chicken stock. 

How to avoid pork lard in Mexican food.

Let’s talk about pork lard. It’s called both asiento and manteca de cerdo. It’s in everything. This is the largest obstacle to eating vegetarian in Oaxaca; the pork lard is a base for many of the foods most notable in this region. They use pork lard on the tlayudas and the mamelas.

All seven types of mole, the signature sauce, have either lard, chicken stock, or both. You can be 100% certain that if you are not in a vegetarian restaurant that the mole sauce (pronounced MOE-lay) is not vegetarian.

You should always ask specifically about pork lard, using one of those two words, because they may make you a quesadilla, but then add a smear of lard to one side of it without you even realizing it—the smear of lard helps the dough get crispier as its cooking.

Does Oaxaca cheese use rennet?

I’m sad to say that yes, the stringy cheese Oaxaca is most famous for does use rennet in the preparation process to separate the curds and whey.

Many vegetarians I know let this slide in their daily lives—rennet is used to make nearly all hard cheese like parmesan, cheddar, manchego, and Swiss cheese—so you’re likely going to want to apply that same logic here. Even though Oaxacan cheese isn’t completely vegetarian, it’s delicious and worth adding to the list of cheeses you try. It was a staple of my diet when I lived there.

Safe street foods for vegetarians in Oaxaca

Quesadilla

The easiest street food that is almost always safe for vegetarians is the quesadilla with flor de calabaza (squash blossom flower). But to eat even a quesadilla, you need wiggle room in your food standards. Your quesadilla will share a cooking surface, called a comal, with the meat and lard-filled foods.

These surfaces are incredibly hot, so any food on the surface burns off quickly, but local cooks will not take care to avoid contamination.

And I as I noted, Oaxaca cheese uses rennet, so there’s no escaping that if you’re eating cheese.

Mamelas and tlayudas

Although things like the mamelas and tlayudas can be made without the lard, which is usually the first layer, the black beans at all street stalls are cross-contaminated with lard. That means this is not usually safe for vegetarians unless you’re at the Pochote market.

It’s these little nuances that make it hard for many vegetarians to enjoy the street food culture in Oaxaca. It’s possible, but you have to be aware, patient, and kind when they don’t understand. The idea of avoiding lard is just not understood, it’s the base of all of their foods here.

If you’re a flexitarian, then you might look past the trace contamination—they will execute your request to the best they understand, but not always to the degree that a strict vegetarian or vegan might require.

Elotes and esquites

One street food snack that is always safe is elotes or esquites. These are corn snacks served out of metal carts that park near the zòcalo each evening. One is served on the cob, the other is corn shaved into a cup. All of the street carts will serve you either snack. Both types are served with mayonnaise, cheese, lime, and chili—it’s delicious and I prefer mine in the cup as the cob is incredibly messy.

Those are the survival tips for eating outside of the vegetarian restaurants in Oaxaca. Let’s look at the vegetarian, and the vegetarian-friendly (they have at least one interesting veggie dish on the menu) restaurants in the city.

What can vegetarians eat at restaurant in Oaxaca?

Guacamole

For vegetarian-friendly restaurant foods, you’ll have more options. Most restaurants serve guacamole and it’s a great snack—I tried the guacs all over town. Also, most comedores and cantinas, or rather hole-in-the-wall restaurants, will fix you an omelet no matter the time of day; these small restaurants can also prepare a cheese quesadilla with the famous Oaxaca string cheese, called quesillo.

Rice and beans

Note that beans and rice is a flexitarian dish—there is often pork lard in the beans, and anything but white rice is likely cooked with chicken stock for additional flavor.

Vegetarian mole

There is a weekly organic market called Pochote and a woman there sells veg mole, but the protests muddled things up and it was disbanded. It’s back in the city during high season but the location changes, as do the vendors, so ask your guesthouse for the latest location.

Oaxaca Centro Vegetarian Restaurants

Calabacitas Tiernas; Porfirio Díaz 1105

Also called La Jicara for the book shop that shares the premises. Offers a vegan menu alongside vegetarian ones and the menu changes often. While once only vegetarian, they added in a few meat options. Very tasty food and the dishes are more interesting than you find in many places. It gets busy at dinner, so go for lunch or before the dinner rush.

Cafetería Xiguela, Hidalgo 202, Barrio Jalatlaco

This both a health-food store and restaurant combo with a commitment to healthy, local food.

A.M. Siempre Cafe, C. José López Alavez 1355, Barrio Xochimilco

This is a great spot for breakfast and a good coffee, and they won’t mind if you camp out with a laptop for a bit and plan out your days in the city. I lived just around the corner from this cafe, so I found it in my regular rotation.

Oaxaca Centro Vegetarian-Friendly Restaurants

Chilhuacle Rojo, García Vigil 304

They serve a vegan coloradito mole, which is tasty and hard to find. This place has an organic farm-to-table premise and a range of options.

Los Danzantes and Catedral, Macedonio Acalá 403 and García Vigil 105, respectively

These are both fancier restaurants in town. If you’re in a mixed group and want somewhere up-scale, I enjoyed the vegetarian options here, although you’re looking at soup or pasta as your mains, not Mexican fare.

Casa Oaxaca: Skip it

There are a paucity of filling options at Casa Oaxaca, a spot highly rated but not remotely veg-friendly. It’s often recommended by fellow vegetarians, but I left super hungry—a few noodles in a bowl doesn’t cut it for me.

Praga Oaxaca, Allende No.106-A

This place is fun when you’re in a mixed group looking to relax with cocktails and good eats. While I didn’t always order food—we often went for sunset mezcal overlooking the church—the meals I had were spot on and had creative vegetarian options.

Happy Cow

Head to Happy Cow Oaxaca for a more extensive list. And do a search for Indian restaurants once you’re there—there were two at last count and they are tasty.

Always confirm your food is vegetarian

When ordering your food at smaller non-vegetarian restaurants in Oaxaca, always confirm it’s vegetarian, even if every ingredient listed is vegetarian. Be the politely persistent person ensuring your server understands you. Even if the menu is in perfect English, don’t count on every ingredient being listed.

I ordered a croissant drizzled in honey and walnuts at Cafe Nuevo Mundo (which has great coffee by the way), and the croissant came with undisclosed sliced ham (?!).

And then there was a time I was hangry and grabbed a slice of street pizza in the Oaxaca city center without questioning that the slice of cheese pizza was just that. Locals were lined up, so I grabbed a slice and drizzled on hot sauce. It took me half of my pizza to realize there was a thin slice of ham baked underneath the cheese (a reason not to drown your food in hot sauce, methinks).

The point is, you need to be vigilant when trying to eat vegetarian in Oaxaca. My Spanish is pretty fluent—I lived in Spanish speaking countries (currently living in Spain) for more than seven years. And yet, I struggled.

To successfully eat vegetarian in Oaxaca, you need preparation and patience. Clarify every ingredient and don’t assume that if you had it before that it’s made the same way somewhere else.

Spanish phrases vegetarians should know

Print it out, screen shot it on your phone—just find a way to have these phrases handy if you’re ordering food and your Spanish is rusty. These are the words and phrases that would be particularly useful for vegetarians:

Remember, clear communication is key, especially in regions where vegetarianism might not be as common—and that means Oaxaca if you’re anywhere but a touristy dinging venue.

Visiting Oaxaca

Use my Oaxaca Travel Guide to plan your trip, and take at least a few of my recommended day trips around Oaxaca or you’ll miss out on a lot of culture.

Safe eating advice

While tap water isn’t safe for drinking, bottled water is readily available. You’ll have a lot of options for street food both in the city, and while visiting the smaller towns on day trips. Read this guide to thoroughly understand the key principles of safely eating street food.

Where to stay

Midrange: La Betulia, a charming B&B linked to the En Vía social enterprise, offers a beautifully renovated, centrally located stay, while El Diablo y La Sandía stands out for its unique, family-run hospitality.

Budget: Casa Angel Hostel is the top budget choice, known for its clean, spacious rooms, full kitchen, free Wi-Fi, and vibrant backpacker atmosphere.

Upscale: For luxury, consider Hotel La Casona de Tita, which offers a quiet, comfortable stay with homemade breakfasts, or Casa de las Bugambilias, best loved for its charming ambiance and gorgeous bedrooms.

This travel story (Vegetarian Survival Guide for Oaxaca, Mexico ) first appeared on the A Little Adrift Travel
Blog, thank you for following the journey. :)