Bigger Than Your Head

Whites and Rosés, Unusual and Delicious

Fredric Koeppel — Mon, 07 Sep 2026 15:52:28 GMT

Some of the grapes featured in the wines under review in this post will be unfamiliar to My Readers. A couple of them were new to me, and I’ve been at this business for more than 40 years. Perhaps that phenomenon is a reflection of the broadening of vinous scope for importers and winemakers, of a willingness to assay new things and make the risky bet that consumers will follow.

The Virginia Wines Governor’s Cup Competition for 2026

Fredric Koeppel — Tue, 01 Sep 2026 19:10:46 GMT

It’s always fun to write about the annual Virginia Governor’s Cup Competition, this time for 2026. Judged by a panel in a rigorous process overseen by judging director Frank Morgan, this selection of 12 wines provides a snapshot of what’s going on, wine-wise, in the Blue Ridge State.

What’s going on seems to be a transition from the ubiquitous and seemingly obligatory cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay to grapes more suited to the state’s verdant hillsides and declivities and its varied microclimates. Of six red wines, three are 100% cabernet franc, while the grape figures in several other blends. One red wine features the lagrein grape, seldom seen outside northeastern Italy. Of three still white wines, two are petit manseng, a rare grape from southwest France, and the other is vermentino; a “blanc de blanc” sparking wine is the traditional 100% chardonnay.

It’s encouraging to see the state finding its footing. Since America lacks the European heritage of regional wine cultures, experimentation has to occur to find the right places for the right grapes to flourish. Still, plenty of wineries in Virginia are producing chardonnay and sauvignon blanc, cabernet sauvignon and pinot noir and doing a fine job. I think, however, that this year’s Virginia Governor’s Cup Competition serves as a prediction for the future.

The problem is distribution. How many restaurant wine lists, how many retail stores outside of Virginia offer the state’s wines? As can be asked about the wines of New York, Michigan, Texas and other wine-producing states. There are wines I mention in this post that I would happily drink again, would even place in my house-wine rotation, but that’s not possible. It the label doesn’t say “California” or “Oregon” or, to a lesser extent, “Washington,” well, good luck finding national distribution. And that’s a shame.

These wines were samples for review.

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White:

Barboursville Vineyard Reserve Vermentino 2024, Virginia. 13.5% alc. 100% vermentino, made all in stainless steel; production was 1,650 cases. Estate director and winemaker is Luca Paschina.

Very pale, straw-gold hue; beguiling aromas of lemon and pear, jasmine and acacia flower, seashell-like limestone minerality; bright acidity keeps the wine lively and enticing; flavors are broadly citrusy, with a hint of nectarine; that slightly saline flint and limestone minerality emerges on the mid-palate and persists through the lightly herbal finish. Drink through 2027, as a delightful aperitif or with grilled shrimp or mussels, seafood risotto and the like. Excellent. About $24.

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Woodbrook Farm Vineyard Petit Manseng 2024, Monticello. 15.4% alc. 100% petit manseng; fermented and aged in French oak, primarily neutral. Production was 172 cases.

The color is radiant medium-gold; on the nose: quince, pear, peach, hints of honeycomb and lanolin, with a riesling-like touch of petrol; prickly acidity, quite dry, lots of lemon and pear on the palate; a texture that feels slightly dense and chewy; altogether attractive except that the 15.4% alcohol — where did that come from? —leaves a bit of a hot finish. Very Good+. About $28.

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The Winery at La Grange Petit Manseng 2024, Virginia. 13.9% alc. 100% petit manseng, fermented and aged in French oak. Production was 189 cases. Winemaker was Seth Chambers.

Light straw-gold color; a leaner and more lithe interpretation of the grape than the previous wine, with beguiling scents of honeysuckle and lavender, lemon curd and melon, and just a touch of honeycomb; lovely balance and tone on the palate, offering notes of spiced pear and quince and intriguing hint of lemon oil and green tea; vibrant acidity and a modicum of limestone minerality complete the picture. Now through 2027. Excellent. About $40.

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Sparkling:

I was supposed to receive the Trump Winery Blanc de Noirs 2018, Monticello, the actual winner, but instead got the Trump Winery Blanc de Blanc 2019, Monticello. 12.5% alc. 100% chardonnay, aged four years in bottle on the lees. Winemaker was Jonathan Wheeler.

Medium straw-gold color, enlivened by a steady stream of tiny bubbles; lemons and pears, hints of jasmine and acacia blossom, touches of green apple and bread fresh; a lush texture balanced by elements of flint and limestone minerality and brisk acidity. Enjoyable but lacks depth and dimension. Now through 2028 or ‘29. Very Good+. About $65.

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Red:

Cross Keys Vineyards Cabernet Franc 2024, Shenandoah Valley. 14% alc. 100% cabernet franc, made all in stainless steel; production was 273 cases. Winemaker is Andrew Bilenkij, though, oddly, the winery’s website does not name him. Of the cabernet franc wines reviewed here, this one most conforms to the Loire Valley model, not that such a condition is necessary, but it is interesting.

Medium ruby-purple hue, with a flush of magenta; raspberries and blueberries, hints of violets, bell pepper, oolong tea; a few moments in the glass elicit undertones of white pepper and pine; lithe and supple on the palate, propelled by vivid acidity and a keen (though modest) edge of graphite minerality; flavors lean toward blue and red, including a touch of spiced plum; a few moments in the glass unfurl touches of flint and wild currants. An elegant quaff. Drink now through 2028 or ‘29. Excellent. About $38.

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Fifty-Third Winery and Vineyard Two Springs 2023, Monticello. 13.85% alc. 72.8% cabernet franc, 22.2% merlot, 3.3% cabernet sauvignon, 1.7% petit verdot; aged 21 months in French and American oak, predominantly neutral barrels; production was 202 cases. Winemaker was Chelsey Blevins.

Medium ruby-mulberry hue with a hint of magenta; plums and cherries, fairly exotic with notes of sandalwood and dried sage, crushed cumin and ancho chili, just a hint of bell pepper and tapenade; vibrant acidity propels cherry and currant flavors through dusty, furry tannins; lots of body and presence, yet light on its feet. Super attractive. Drink now through 2028. Excellent. About $37.95.

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Glen Manor Vineyards Vin Rouge 2023, Virginia. 13.4% alc. 67% cabernet sauvignon, 19% cabernet franc, 10% merlot, 4% petit verdot, aged 17 months in oak barrels. Production was 225 cases. Winemaker was Jeff White.

Very dark ruby-purple color; black currants and cherries, permeated by hints of lavender and lilac, black olive, mint and eucalyptus, smoke, graphite and plums; lip-smacking acidity drives juicy black and blue fruit flavors touched by a compote of stewed plums and black cherries, underbrush and conifers; moderate, velvety tannins and a dry granitic finish. Now through 2030 to’33. Excellent. About $37.

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Granite Heights Winery Humility 2024, Virginia. 12.7% alc. 100% lagrein grapes, aged in French oak. Production was 57 cases. The grape is native to the valleys of South Tyrol in northeastern Italy. Winemaker was Luke Kilyk.

A very dark ruby-purple color; black currants and raspberries; mint, cedar and graphite; smoke, black tea and tapenade; ripe and fleshy and gradually unfurling notes of blueberry, rhubarb and fennel seed; acidity so spiky and lively you could almost call it pungent, tempered by dusty, cushiony tannins and spiced and macerated black and red berry flavors; the whole package is dark, spicy, loamy — and eminently drinkable. Nothing humble here. Excellent. About $52.

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Michael Shaps Wineworks Cabernet Franc 2023, Virginia. 13.7% alc. 100% cabernet franc; no available information on the aging regimen. Production was 595 cases. Winemaker was Michael Shaps.

Medium ruby-magenta hue; red currants and mulberries, just a touch of black raspberry, all infused with hints of violets, black tea, baking spices and woodsmoke; these elements segue seamlessly to the palate, where bright acidity keeps an even keel on mildly dusty tannins and a moderately dense texture; gains some traction of limestone minerality through the finish. Drink now through 2029 or ‘30, especially with a medium-rare ribeye steak, hot and crusty from the grill. Very Good+. About $40.

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Pollak Vineyards Merlot Reserve 2023, Virginia. 14% alc. 100% merlot, aged 13 months in French oak, half new barrels, half neutral. Production was 147 cases. Winemaker was Benoit Pineau.

Very dark ruby-purple hue; expansive bouquet of blueberries and plums, permeated by hints of warm spices — cloves, cinnamon, cumin, allspice — cedar, oak and touches of vanilla and cocoa powder; grippy tannins, a thread of vibrant acidity, a core of lavender, violets, bittersweet chocolate and loam under juicy red currants and blue plums; occupies the mouth with deep presence and personality, leading to a finish charged with granitic minerality and burnished oak; could use a year or two to settle down, but bursting with potential. Drink through 2033 to ‘35. Exceptional. About $60.

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7 Lady Vineyards Meritage 2023, Virginia. 13.9% alc. A blend of 44% merlot, 37% petit verdot, 19% cabernet franc, aged 20 months in a mix of French, American and Hungarian oak; production was 931 cases. Why, oh why the oversize, thick, heavy environmentally-unfriendly bottle? Winemaker was Zach Clancy.

Dark ruby-purple shading to an ethereal rim; scents of macerated red and black currants and cherries, hints of crushed violets and lavender, graphite, cedar and mint; a substantial presence on the palate, displaying good balance among acid, fruit, wood and tannin, with an aspect of granitic minerality that increases from mid-palate through the large-framed finish; currants and cherries, yes, and a touch of wild blueberry. Drink now through 2033 to ‘35. Excellent. About $65.

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Valley Road Vineyards Cabernet Franc Reserve 2023, Virginia. 13.7% alc. 100% cabernet franc, aged 20 months in French oak, 75% neutral, 25% new barrels. Production was 111 cases. Winemaker was Corry Craighill.

Very dark ruby-mulberry hue shading to an evanescent rim; first impressions are of graphite and oak, followed by spiced and macerated currants and cherries and an intense aura of potpourri, that is, dried rose petals, violets and lavender; a few moments in the glass bring out notes of rhubarb and pomegranate; quite dense and chewy on the palate, displaying formidable dusty tannins and polished oak, a finish of loam, leather and tar. Give this a year and drink through 2030 to ‘33. Very Good+. About $42.

Do We Care that Today Is “National Red Wine Day”?

Fredric Koeppel — Fri, 28 Aug 2026 20:49:24 GMT

National Red Wine Day was created in 2014 by Jace Shoemaker-Galloway, a prolific children’s book author, animal-care advocate and holiday writer. She has created 26 “national holidays,” including Prevent Plagiarism Day (Feb. 19), Keep Off the Grass Day (April 21), Silly Sayings Day (Oct. 13), Green Bean Casserole Day (Dec. 3), and, naturally, White Wine Day (Aug. 4).

My Favorite Wine Note, Not by Me

Fredric Koeppel — Mon, 24 Aug 2026 22:44:54 GMT

When I started learning about wine in the early 1980s, I took a two-pronged approach: 1. To taste as many wines as possible, and 2. to be guided, as much as possible, by my reading in the literature of wine. I say “as much as possible” because, living at the time in a small town in north Mississippi and then, after 1986, back in Memphis, my access to fi…

What’s So Great about Wine, Anyway?

Fredric Koeppel — Sat, 22 Aug 2026 20:44:35 GMT

Wine is a beverage, a product of agriculture, like potato chips and croissants, but you never hear people say, “Yes, we’re selling the house and moving to potato country” or “It’s so chic and sophisticated here in wheat country.” No, it’s wine country people of a certain fiduciary prowess crave, with all the implications of luxury, elegance, cosmopolitanism, beautiful views from stone terraces where beautifully dressed, highly presentable men and women sip gleaming jewels of wine from the perfect glasses, surrounded by beautifully tended vineyards.

Wine of the Day, No. 904, and a Bonus

Fredric Koeppel — Wed, 19 Aug 2026 15:46:57 GMT

I don’t know who comes up with these “days” to honor individual grape varieties, and it doesn’t really matter because I’m a day late anyway. Today is probably International Alicante Bouschet Day, and I’ll miss that one too.

In any case, I offer, on this Wednesday, August 19, 2026 — and isn’t the year going by quickly! Or maybe not quickly enough! — two …

Steven Kent Winery: Four Versions of Cabernet Franc

Fredric Koeppel — Wed, 12 Aug 2026 21:35:46 GMT

Steven Kent Mirassou is the 6th generation of the Mirassou family that pioneered the cultivation of grapes in the Santa Clara Valley in the mid 1850s. As a direct descendent and great-grandson of second-generation Pierre & Henrietta Pellier Mirassou, he represents an enviable heritage that extends back to the beginning of California’s wine industry, though the family only switched from selling bulk wine to producing varietal bottlings in the 1940s.

Wine of the Day, No. 903

Fredric Koeppel — Mon, 10 Aug 2026 18:18:51 GMT

The Res Fortes Merlot Madness 2022, from France’s southwestern Roussillon region, is a knock-out that deserves to be your House Red until the 2023 version hits our shores soon. Made all in stainless steel by estate owner Moritz Bak, the wine displays a very dark ruby-purple color and penetrating aromas of ripe raspberries and plums, permeated by scents …

Six Recent Purchases

Fredric Koeppel — Sat, 08 Aug 2026 15:21:38 GMT

As samples for review from wineries and importers dwindle to about one degree above zero-zip-zilch, I turn more and more to purchasing the wines I write about for the edification and education of My Readers. Such a situation is unsustainable, which is why I constantly ask, nay, insist that readers enter into a full paid subscription, $60 a year, people. I need that dough to maintain this website and keep the reviews flowing, as well as the expression of and exchange of ideas.

Tongue Dancer Wines: A Re-Introduction

Fredric Koeppel — Wed, 05 Aug 2026 15:54:14 GMT

I reviewed the chardonnays and pinot noirs from Tongue Dancer Wines on BTYH from 2016 to 2020, then — Nothing. Well, O.K., starting in 2020, things got pretty rough. Many wineries and importers stopped sending sample bottles around that time and never started back. (Yoo-hoo, you can start again.)

Anyway, I pondered this situation, especially in the light…

Notable Reprise No. 3: "Wine and Dance"

Fredric Koeppel — Mon, 27 Jul 2026 18:46:35 GMT

Wine and Dance

Fredric Koeppel

I always read every word of every review written by Alastair Macaulay, chief dance critic for The New York Times. Macaulay came to the Times from London in 2007*. He writes primarily about ballet and from a standpoint that’s not just knowledgeable and experienced but deeply passionate and revealing. Often, Macaulay’s writing…

Gianni Doglia: Four Current Releases

Fredric Koeppel — Fri, 24 Jul 2026 21:04:24 GMT

In 1947, Eugenio Rivella decided to stop sharecropping and buy into the land where he wanted to plant vines and make his own wines. Now, the estate is operated by Eugenio’s grandson Gianni Doglia, the name of the winery, and his sister Paola (pictured below).

A Notable, Perhaps Noble Reprise, No. Two

Fredric Koeppel — Mon, 20 Jul 2026 15:59:24 GMT

Today’s reprise is the second in a series of three that I’m posting at the request of Frank Morgan, a well-known authority on the wines of Virginia (and a valuable friend). When I mentioned last week on Facebook that a certain day marked the 42nd anniversary of my first wine column, he responded by saying, “Post your three favorite columns!” So, I’ve be…

Cattleya Wines: Some 2024s

Fredric Koeppel — Sat, 18 Jul 2026 18:32:29 GMT

Bibiana Gonzàlez Rave, working mainly in Sonoma County, is owner and winemaker for her labels Cattleya and Alma de Cattleya, named for an orchid that grows in her native Columbia. Her focus at Cattleya Wines is chardonnay and pinot noir from named appellations in Sonoma County; also on the roster is a syrah from the Soberanes Vineyard in Monterey County’s Santa Lucia Highlands. Alma de Cattleya is a second and less expensive label for chardonnay and pinot noir plus sauvignon blanc and a blended red wine, all carrying a general Sonoma County designation.

A Notable, Even Noble Reprise

Fredric Koeppel — Fri, 17 Jul 2026 17:02:47 GMT

Last week, I mentioned on Facebook that July 11 marked the 42nd anniversary of my first wine column published in The Commercial Appeal newspaper, an event that launched my career as a writer about wine and the wine industry.

Facebook friend (and actual friend) Frank Morgan — the person who knows everything about the wines and wineries of Virginia — sugge…

New Releases from Troon Vineyard and Farm

Fredric Koeppel — Tue, 14 Jul 2026 15:39:56 GMT

Applegate Valley lies in the southern reaches of Oregon, within the larger Rouge Valley AVA, which itself is subsumed within the vast Southern Oregon AVA. The Applegate Valley AVA, approved in 2000, holds 15 wineries and about 340 acres of vines.

Weekend Wine Notes: 12 Wines Notable for Their Diversity

Fredric Koeppel — Sat, 11 Jul 2026 20:57:12 GMT

I taste a lot of wine, and it all doesn’t fit into neat categories that make singular posts for this website. So today, I offer a dozen wines that reach into many nooks and crannies of the wine world for your edification and enjoyment. I offer these wine notes with a minimum of geographical, historical and technical detail, preferring, as is usual in the Weekend Wine Notes, to give you quick reviews, ripped, as it were, from the pages of my notebooks.

Vecchie Terre di Montefili -- Tuscan Sangiovese of Intensity and Purity

Fredric Koeppel — Wed, 08 Jul 2026 22:54:23 GMT

Serena Gusmeri says that she’s not fond of international grapes in Italy. The winemaker for Vecchie Terre di Montefili, in the Chanti Classico region above the medieval town of Panzano — halfway between Florence and Siena — means, specifically, that she doesn’t approve of the addition of cabernet sauvignon, merlot or syrah to the sangiovese-based wines of Chianti, nor for the trendy employment of small French barriques*.

Wine of the Day, No. 902

Fredric Koeppel — Tue, 07 Jul 2026 19:28:31 GMT

Bibiana Gonzalez Rave fashions primarily single-vineyard chardonnay and pinot noir from specific sites in Sonoma County AVAs for her Cattleya label. These are elegant and powerful, limited-edition wines that command appropriate prices in the $60 to $80 range. I’ll be writing about some of those wines next week.

Meanwhile, to keep the cash-flow on an even…

Andreola: Don't Call Them Prosecco

Fredric Koeppel — Wed, 01 Jul 2026 18:48:39 GMT

Few of the world’s wine-producing regions are without a hierarchy of quality when it comes to location, micro-climate and soil and the wines made there. Look at Burgundy and Champagne and how their vineyards are rated into tiers of quality or Bordeaux and its 1855 Classification of estates.