PS If you are planning a trip to Switzerland , here is my brand new guide to Switzerland on a budget , my guide to Zurich on a budget and also checkout my guide to the best free things to do in Basel and the best things to do in Chur

1. Visit the Musegg Wall

Address: Auf Musegg, 6004 Luzern

Medieval fortification stretching 870m with nine towers, offering sweeping views over the Old Town, lake and Alps

An ancient fortification that protected the city in medieval times, serves as a historic landmark, a home to Lucerne’s wildlife and an excellent place to take in the views of the city and the surrounding mountains. Nestled in the heart of the Old Town and stretching over an incredible 800 metres, navigating the Musegg Wall and its nine towers is a wonderful way to drink in Lucerne’s history. The 31 metre high, Zyt tower houses a clock face on its exterior that can be viewed from as far away as the Lake. Jackdaws, common lizards and insects call this well preserved wall, their home, and is undoubtedly one of Lucerne’s best preserved historical. Keep in mind that during the winter months (November-March), the Wall and Towers remains closed for visitors. 

2. Visit the Lion Monument

Address: Denkmalstrasse 4, 6006 Luzern

Moving rock-relief memorial to the Swiss Guards, carved into a cliff face in a quiet park

The ‘Lion of Lucerne’ designed by Bertel Thorvaldsen, is a moving tribute to those Swiss Guards who perished in battle, during the French Revolution. The rock relief carved into the cliff face is a spectacular 10 metres long and 6 metres high but rather than the size of the sculpture, or the grandeur of the carving, it is the expression of mortal pain on the lion’s face that is the most arresting. Situated in a city park in the centre of town , the stunning grotto with the poignant sandstone carving allows visitors to step back in time and pay homage to the lives of six hundred brave souls.

3. The wooden bridges of Lucern-Chapel Bridge and Chaff Bridge

Address: Kapellbrücke, 6002 Luzern

Europe’s oldest covered wooden bridge, its interior lined with historic paintings of Lucerne’s story

Lucerne’s Chapel Bridge is Europe’s oldest covered bridge. Made from wood, the footbridge traverses the River Reuss diagonally, and its gorgeous interior paintings depict several scenes from Lucerne’s history. The beautiful bridge suffered fire damage in 1993 and several of the paintings were destroyed at the time but have now been lovingly restored. The bridge stands as a symbol for the city and its central Water Tower and the bridge with masses of colourful hanging flowers – are emblematic of the city’s beauty. 

The smaller, less well-known Chaff Bridge is not to be ignored. This bridge also contains a number of panelled paintings although the theme of some of these paintings is death and the ever changing cycle of life. Built later than Chapel Bridge, not only is Chaff Bridge shorter, the purpose of its building was to connect the flour mills to the Old Town. Bread was made in bakeries in the New Town, to lessen the chance of a fire breaking out in the Old town, and the Chaff Bridge was an important means of connecting the people of Old Town with an important source of sustenance.

4. Swim in the Lake at Ufschötti

Address: Alpenquai, 6005 Luzern

A 200m sandy strip on Lake Lucerne, ideal for a summer swim, picnic or barbecue

If you are a sun worshipper and crave the feel of a sandy beach between your toes, then look no further – a dip in Lake Lucerne is possible during the summer months at the swathe of green space known as as the Ufschötti. The park is south of Lucerne’s main train station and consists of a strip of sand 200 metres long, adjacent to the Lake. Have a picnic in the green space behind the beach, shaded by trees or enjoy a barbecue. During the summer months, a beach bar serves hot and cold drinks. Other amenities include toilets as well as showers to be used after a refreshing dip in the Lake. Sip on a cold drink and look onto the beauty of Lake Lucerne, shrouded by mountains in the background .

5. Visit the painted squares of the old Town of Lucerne

One of the best things about strolling through the Old Town of Lucerne is its pedestrian only streets, enabling the visitor to take their time, drinking in the historical sights – one of which is the incredibly beautiful painted squares scattered about town. Start at the Weinmarkt, originally the site of a fish market, but now pay special attention to the beautiful fountain with its octagonal basin and column made of limestone. Of note are the frescoes on the façade of the Hotel des Balances and also the special fresco depicting the miracle of Jesus turning water into wine. At the Hirschenplatz, you will find the Kornmarkt – a trading hall, a granary and then the Town Hall – in its long history. Do pay attention to the facades of the historical houses in the square. The Mühlenplatz is Lucerne’s largest historic square, but it is Kapellplatz that is home to the colourful Fritschi Fountain. 

6. Go shopping at one of the many excellent 2nd Hand clothing shops in Lucerne

1. FIZZEN Lucerne

Address: Löwengraben 15, 6004 Luzern

Curated mix of vintage and new fashion pieces, accessories and quirky gifts, with sister outlets in Basel, Bern and Zürich

Mixture of well curated fashion pieces, both brand new and vintage plus accessories and unique gifts make this a must visit in Lucerne. They have outlets in Basel, Bern and Zürich too.Second-hand clothing shop for women and men, also running upcycling and patching workshops

2. The Secondhand

Address: Bruchstrasse 45, 6003 Luzern

Second-hand clothing shop for women and men, also running upcycling and patching workshops

At The Secondhand there is a nice selection of second-hand clothing for women and men.The Secondhand also conducts workshops where you learn how to patch or even color your favorite piece.

3. Ziitlos

Address: Mythenstrasse 7 (and Industriestrasse 17), 6004/6005 Luzern

Second Hand: quite retro

In the Ziitlos branches at Mythenstrasse 7 in Lucerne and Industriestrasse 17, the name says it all. Here everyone who is looking for the very special outfit from days past in Lucerne or wants to browse for cool unique items will find what they are looking for. Stylish home and fashion accessories can also be discovered in the small, fine second hand shops.

For a few francs more..

7. Swiss Transport Museum

Address: Lidostrasse 5, 6006 Luzern

Switzerland’s most popular museum, covering cars, trains, boats, aircraft and space, with a planetarium and cinema

One of Switzerland’s most popular museums, the Swiss Transport Museum is dedicated to documenting and exhibiting all things related to modes of transport – cars, trains, boats and aircraft. The presence of a planetarium and a cinema complete the museum experience. Exhibits include various reconstructions of Swiss rail lines, examples of road vehicles, a Car Theatre, a Space exhibit house, various Swiss aircraft, aerial cableway exhibits, and lastly a collection of artworks by Swiss artist Hans Erni. Swiss Travel Pass holders get up to 50 % discount for museum entry.

Where to stay in Lucerne on a budget

Capsule Hotel Chapter Lucerne

Capsule Hotel Chapter Lucerne is a fantastic option to have in terms of price, location and the facilities. Nestled in the heart of the city, steps from the iconic Chapel Bridge, Lion Monument, the Old Town plus with a Coop supermarket next door, the location is perfect. 

The innovative pod-style beds, inspired by Japanese capsule hotels but featuring Swiss design, are arranged in double-decker configuration. For additional privacy, you can opt for a lower pod by paying a small premium.

Accessibility is prioritized with a specialized wheelchair-accessible pod. The hostel offers gender-segregated shower and restroom facilities, plus a fully accessible bathroom for guests with disabilities.

Security is managed through smart technology – each pod’s sliding door locks via a smartphone app using Bluetooth, or alternatively through a 4-digit PIN provided at check-in. This single system grants access to both your room and individual pod.

Inside each pod, you’ll find thoughtful amenities: a plush mattress, adjustable lighting, mirror, and garment hooks. A whisper-quiet ventilation system ensures comfort, while the interior decor features cloud murals overhead and Swiss Alpine imagery, adding a local touch to your stay. Luggage and footwear can be stored beneath the bottom pods, with cable locks available for security. A separate luggage storage room provides an additional storage option.

Then there is the stunning shared space, a glass-walled lounge which shapeshifts from peaceful morning coffee spot to perfect coworking spot to evening entertainment hub.

Whether you’re looking to get some work done, read a book from their wonderful library of books on their comfy leather sofa, join the weekly movie nights, catch a comedy show, or bond with fellow guests over board games, there’s always something for guests here.

There is an onsite bar where you can enjoy baked goods, pizza, flammkuchen at an affordable price plus a selection of wines, beers and soft drinks if you are thirsty. At under 80 CHF a night, Chapter Lucerne proves that thoughtful design, comfort, and community does not need to come with a luxury price tag.

Plus, you can get 15% off your stay with the code: CAPSULE15  at the Capsule Hotel Chapter Lucerne and at any of their other locations , which currently include Zurich and Basel

1. Enjoy the amazing Street Art

Basel has a diverse and interesting street art scene and everywhere you walk in the city, you will find an eclectic mix of murals, graffiti and installations, especially on the outskirts of the city. You will find striking graffiti and murals along the tracks between the Swiss SBB railway station and Schwarzwaldbrücke bridge, as well as around Schänzli near St. Jakob-Park and the Sommercasino. The harbour also features impressive street art. Additionally, the Bell site showcases Basel’s largest installation, a 1,700 m² wall created by over 30 artists during the Change of Colours event in August 2020.

Here are my favourite spots:

1. Gerbergässlein

4001 Basel

Commissioned by the rock bar L’Unique across the alley, this is probably Basel’s most famous street artwork – it is a massive artwork featuring an array of world famous musicians, from the Beatles to Jimi Hendrix to Ozzy.

2. Malaga loves Basel – Kohlenberg

Kohlenberg 13, Basel

Dest Jones from Basel and urban artist Lalone from Malaga both created this mural as a homage to Pablo Picasso and his influence on the cities of Basel and Malaga.

3. Sommercasino

Münchensteinerstrasse 1,

4052 Basel

A former society house dating from the 19th century, the Sommercasino besides being a popular hotspot for concerts and parties, is also a popular hangout spot for local graffiti artists and you will find some impressive artworks and motifs on the entire facade.

4. Space Invaders

Clarastrasse, 4005 Basel

Across Basel you will find 20 Space Invaders by Paris based Invader, a leading light of the urban art world. Of the 20 pieces, the most famous one is in Kleinbasel, around the Corner from the Messe Basel. Created in 2019, “The Golden Pot of the Art World”, is one of the biggest in the world.

5. Port

Uferstrasse, 4057 Basel

Along the remote edges of Klybeck right upto the “border triangle” aka Dreiländereck where the three countries meet, you will find a great mix of murals and graffiti art adorning everything from the walls of industrial buildings to freight Wagons and also in the culture space, Holzpark Klybeck.

2. Museums you can visit for free in Basel

– Kunstmuseum Basel

Kunstmuseum Basel houses the second largest public art collection in Switzerland, after the Kunsthaus Zürich and is listed as a heritage site of national significance.Its lineage extends back to the Amerbach Cabinet, which included a collection of works by Hans Holbein purchased by the city of Basel and the University of Basel in 1661, which made it the first municipally owned and therefore, open to the public museum in the world. Its collection is distinguished by an impressively wide historic span, from the early 15th century up to the immediate present. Its various areas of emphasis give it international standing as one of the most significant museums of its kind. These encompass: paintings and drawings by artists active in the Upper Rhine region between 1400 and 1600, and on the art of the 19th to 21st centuries.

The collection can be visited for free on Tuesdays and Thursdays from 5 to 6 p.m., Wednesdays and Fridays from 5 to 8 p.m., and the first Sunday of each month.

– Museum Tinguely

A visit to Museum Tinguely is a must for an insight into the life and genius of Jean Tinguely, one of Basels most celebrated citizens for his pioneering work in the field of kinetic works.

Spanning his career which last more than 4 decades, the museum is the largest collection of his works, from early, filigree reliefs to his monumental machine sculptures from the 1980s.

Inspired by Tinguely, Museum Tinguely is very playful and interactive, hosting diverse events and exhibitions that will bring out your inner artist.

The museum is free to visit late on Thursdays between 6 – 9 pm.

– Hoosesaggmuseum

In the heart of the charming and steep Imbergässlein, once the street of Basel’s spice merchants, lies the fascinating Hoosesaggmuseum (Pants Pocket Museum). There’s no entry fee, but also no entrance possible to this museum- the entire collection is displayed within a two-foot-by-two-foot window in the door of Dagmar and Matthias Vergeat’s 600-year-old home, tucked away in this narrow pedestrian alley in Basel’s Old Town.

This unique museum showcases miniature collections small enough to fit in your pocket. Anyone with a private collection of tiny objects of more than 30 items can display them here for a limited time, adding a personal and whimsical touch to the exhibits.

3. See Niki de Saint Phalle sculpture at Solitude Park

On our way back from Museum Tinguely, we strolled through the beautiful Solitude Park ( Later discover that Niki Saint de Phalle and Tinguely were partners in life and art, the ‘Bonnie and Clyde of the Art World’ ) we discovered one of Niki de Saint Phalle’s colorful painted polyester sculptures. I’m a huge fan of her buxom, bold and beautiful sculptures and followed her work ever since I saw an exhibition of hers in Nice and Hanover. So this was a really cool discovery.

4. Go for a swim down the Rhine River

In late spring and summer, the most popular thing that locals do to relax and cool down, is to go for a swim down the Rhine river. Everytime we walked down Kleinbasel, we saw people of all ages drifting down the river. Most people use their “Wickelfisch”, a swim bag where they can store their clothes and valuables securely, to float down on the gentle current through the city. There are plenty of places on Kleinbasel to dry yourself. I was super impressed at the number of showers and toilet facilities along the river – this city really knows how to enjoy summer. Plus, don’t forget all the marvellous buvettes for enjoying an ice cold drink. Our tip is Flora, which has a great selection of affordable wines and beers on tap.

Note: You can hire a Wickelfisch from the Basel Tourism Information Point for 10 CHF. Also worth remembering, sometimes the current can be pretty strong so it is advisable to check conditions before you go for a dip – Basel tourism website is a good place to check.

5. Hop on a Rhine River Ferry for just 2 CHF!

Not free but pretty much free at just 2 CHF- hop on a Rhine Cruise for the princely sum of 2 Swiss francs which lets you cross the river in Basel: Choose from the four Rhine river ferries “Wild Maa”, “Leu”, “Vogel Gryff” and “Ueli”, which all link the Grossbasel to Kleinbasel. Attached to a long wire cable, the boats are driven purely by the current of the Rhine itself.

1 of 4 ferries to cross the Rhine: after roaming the scenic area of St Alban, an upscale residential district of Basel dotted with villas and Gothic and baroque merchants’ houses, we hopped on the Wilde Maa ferry from St Alban in Grossbasel to Kleinbasel.

6. Exploring Klybeck

If you are looking for something bit more alternative, then I definitely recommend a visit to the former industrial district of Klybeck on the banks of the Rhine, which has been a popular magnet for artists and culture lovers since it was formed back in 2014. Holzpark Klybeck which reminds me a lot of Holzmarkt25 in Berlin has lots of cool street art pieces and is packed with pop-up bars and restaurants made from shipping containers and wooden pallets. I recommend having a beer or cocktail at the friendly Patschifig. Also, recommend the rustic Landstelle, by the Rhine river next to Holzpark for a refreshing beer or cocktail after a dip in the river from the nearby jetty.

7. Visit the Basel Munster

Together with the Mittlere Brücke, the Basler Münster (Cathedral) is probably the most famous landmark in Basel. With its red sandstone walls, colourful roof tiles and twin towers, no other building adorns the cityscape of Basel like the Cathedral. The former episcopal church, was built between the years 1019 and 1500 in the Romantic and Gothic styles. The crypt, the chancel, the tomb of Erasmus of Rotterdam, the Gallus gate and the two cloisters are witness to a fascinating tale of construction over a period of several centuries. The piazza in which the Cathedral stands is today a popular meeting place and is often used for concerts and events.

Tip: Visit ‘The Pfalz‘

At the back of the Munster, we discover the Pfalz , a terrace that offering wonderful views over the Rhine and one of the most popular viewpoints in the city. From the terrace we could see the ‘Reaction Ferries’ crossing the Rhine river and since we needed to hop to Kleinbasel, we decided to try them out.

8.  Basel for free- take a self guided walking tour

If you are short on time and prefer the independence of exploring the city on foot at your own pace, then the free Basel City App is the one you should download. There is a wealth of history and stories in every corner of Basel’s Old Town and this app, gives you the lowdown of all the stories and places you can discover. You have 5 different walking tours to choose from and they all start and finish on the Marktplatz.

9. Basel Nightlife for almost free

Basel’s nightlife punches above its weight for a city of its size. There’s something for everyone. You will find a nice mix of easygoing pubs and also cozy, dimly lit bars spread through the the  ever-popular Steinenvorstadt to the lively Rheingasse to the hip Klybeck district. If you are on a tight budget and avoid expensive drink prices of bars, join the locals for their after work drink by the Rhine river ( grab a drink from Migros or Coop ) at Landstelle.

10. Visit the epic Johann Wanner Christmas Store

I lived in Edinburgh for many years and one of the novelties you can find in the city is not one but three year round Christmas shops. However in terms of scale and variety, this shop ( just around the corner from Tapas del Mar ) was astounding. I don’t think I’ve ever been to Xmas shop like this. If you are the person who lives and dreams of Xmas, then you will love this place.

11. Explore Basel for free with the BaselCard

Getting around Basel is a dream, thanks to its efficient and well-connected transport system. The city’s backbone is its extensive tram and bus network, run by BVB. Trams crisscross the city, while buses fill in the gaps.

Visitors staying at any hostel, hotel or guesthoise get a fantastic perk – the Basel Card is for free! This magic card allows you free use of public transport and discounts on attractions.

Besides free public transport across the city, you also get a 25% discount on a range of attractions — including Basel’s museums, the zoo, Theater Basel (box-office tickets only, excluding premières and special/guest performances), the sightseeing bus tour, guided Old Town walking tours (reservation needed), a workshop tour at Jakob’s Leckerly, public day boat trips with Basler Personenschifffahrt, the Reigoldswil-Wasserfallen cable car, and Nordstern (box-office tickets only, subject to availability). On top of that, cardholders can rent an e-bike at the SBB railway station through Guest Bike Basel for CHF 25 a day.

1. Sapori Del Sud

Address: Spalenvorstadt 34, 4051 Basel

Beloved Italian-Sicilian takeaway near Spalentor, famous for pastrami sandwiches and arancini

Right next to the Spalentor lies a slice of Italian and Sicilian heaven – Sapori Del Sud is a takeaway run by the affable Antonio Russo and his mother, Grazia who specialise in preparing paninos and their signature pastrami sandwiches, which in a bite takes me back to New York. The prices are very reasonable – 11 CHF for a Jumbo Sandwich, which is enough to feed two people

2. Coop Restaurant Basel Pfaufen

Address: Freie Strasse 75, 4051 Basel

Self-service Coop buffet restaurant atop the Pfauen department store, pay-by-weight salad and hot buffet

Whether you are looking for takeaway sandwiches, snacks or a proper sit down meal, Coop is your life saviour in Switzerland. If you are looking for simple, affordable meal in Basel with lots of good options that include their signature salad buffet plus chicken and fish, prepared on demand in front of your eyes, then definitely pop into Coop Restaurant at the top of the Pfaufen department store on Freie Strasse, Basel’s popular shopping street. The buffet which you pay by weight and plate size, includes plenty of vegan/ veggie options that include fresh salads and self-serve dishes to sandwiches, soups, desserts and both sweet and savoury snacks. For a stacked plate from the buffet with a mix of items, expect to pay around 15 CHF. It can get crowded around lunch time so be prepared to wait a little. They also have daily value specials that range from pastas to Asian classic dishes. Currently they are offering Fried Halloumi on Mediterranean-style rice for just 9.95 CHF or Arabic casserole with aubergines, tofu, herby bulgur and cucumber salad with pomegranate for 13.95 CHF. If you are looking for a great breakfast buffet, they also offer a all-you-can-eat breakfast for CHF 19.95 per person- you can refill your plate and cup as often as you like, until 10.30. Plus they do a coffee and cake combo from 2pm everyday for 5.95 CHF too.

3. Buon Gusto Streetfood Basel

Address: Marktplatz, 4001 Basel

Food truck serving Sicilian-inspired burgers and steak paninis

Dominated by its vibrant rouge red 16th century town hall, the Marktplatz is a definitely worth wandering, especially during the week when there’s a busy weekly market on where locals come to buy fresh vegetables, fruit and flowers. If you are looking for good quality burgers and panini sandwiches at the market at a reasonable price, then Buon Gusto Streetfood truck is a popular choice with locals and visitors. Burgers ( veggie, cheeseburger ) and Paninis ( include famous steak panini ) start at 13.50 CHF and portion of fries is 5 CHF.

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4. Pilz Hüsli

Address: Marktplatz, 4001 Basel

Mushroom and truffle specialist stand also serving risotto and pasta dishes

If you are a mushroom and pasta lover, then the Pilz Hüsli food truck at the Marktplatz is also a great choice. Open from Monday to Saturdaym ( till 2.30pm ) besides offering fresh and dried mushrooms, they also serve an inexpensive delicious lunch, from an excellent mushroom risotto to a four cheese ravioli with mushroom sauce, all from 13 CHF.

5. Mum’s Kitchen

Address: Margarethenstrasse 45, 4053 Basel

Cosy Vietnamese restaurant near the SBB train station, known for pho and lunch menus

Close to the main train station, this Vietnamese restaurant offers a lunch menu offer of a choice of main dishes ( from thai red curry chicken to fried tofu with veggies ) and water for 18 CHF. Good price-quality ratio for Basel

6. Za Zaa

Address: Petersgraben 15, 4051 Basel

Stylish Syrian-Lebanese restaurant for mezze, salads, hummus and falafel

A stylish Syrian-Lebanese eatery in the heart of Basel, Za Zaa  offers a nice range of dishes, from homemade soups ( Yellow Lentil soup with Curkuma: 9.50 CHF) to traditional salads ( from 12.50 CHF) , excellent hummus, both cold and warm mezze and great falafel teller. ( from 23.50 CHF)

7. Lily Maxim

Address: Rebgasse 1, 4058 Basel

Modern Asian eatery blending Thai, Indian and Chinese dishes

Serving a mix of classic Thai, Indian and Chinese dishes, if you are looking for an  unpretentious dining experience with fast, good service, then you will like Lily Maxim. The food is adapted to local tastes but there is a good range of condiments to customise the dish to your style. Curries ( Thai Green or Red of Yellow Curry start from 23.50 and their Lentil Dahl Curry is 19.50 CHF)

8. Klara

Address: Clarastrasse 13, 4058 Basel

Kleinbasel food court with nine international kitchens around a central bar

Another excellent option for dining is Klara, a food court that serves culinary treats from Japan, Argentina, Thailand and Africa. Locals rave about the hummus and pita from Yoya Pitabar and the pasta and pinsa from Lamia Pastaria. Our pick of the bunch was the Vietnamese Diner, Nón Lá Vietnamese Corner. Sabrina loved the Bun Bo Nam Bo ( 24.30 CHF with 10% discount for takeaway ) and I tried the Banh Mi with their special lemongrass chicken ( 16 CHF) and it was fab.

9. Markthalle

Address: Steinentorberg 20, 4051 Basel

Historic market hall turned lively international food court near the train station

Located near the train station in a beautiful listed building that originally served as the local market lies the Markthalle. Since 2014 it has been repurposed into an international food Court featuring dishes from all around the world at very reasonable prices. There is a great variety of choice here,  from delicious empanadas to ceviche to kebabs and also delicious curries. When we visited, late on the weekend, we also found an excellent local preloved clothes market packed with locals.

10. Coffee at Café Unternehmen

Address: Gerbergasse 30, 4001 Basel

Grand former-bank coffee house is “Basel’s living room” with organic lunches, cakes and coworking space

This architectural gem dating back to 1912 was formerly the Swiss Volksbank and is Basels unofficial living room where you will find people hunched over their laptops working away, tired shoppers lounging on the stylish Eames chairs sipping on coffee or locals enjoying their excellent terrace, scoffing one of their delicious range of cakes and pastries.

11. Jakob’s Basler Leckerly

No trip to Basel is complete without sampling the famous Basler Leckerli biscuits, a ginger biscuit popular in the region that reminded us a lot of the popular German Xmas treat, Lebkuchen gingerbread cookies. The place to try the Basler Leckerli is Jakob’s Basler Leckerly, the oldest biscuit manufacturer in Switzerland, dating back to 1753.

Berlin has one of the most democratic drinking cultures in Europe

No matter wherever I travel in the world, I miss Berlin’s bar culture. Name a city in Western Europe where you can do drinking across multiple areas for less than €10? Berlin’s bar scene is incredibly diverse – on a typical evening you would start with a €1 sterni from the neighbourhood Späti, proceed to a classic bar, and then prop up the bar at a classic Kneipe where the same family has been pulling pints for over a century.

Spätis are the cornerstone of Berlin’s 24/7 nightlife scene, where strangers meet and become friends. This is where the Friday night starts with a wegbier, a €1 Sternburg beer to go, ( In fact there is a Spati to the left of Schonhause Apotheke on Danziger Strasse that has Sterni for €0.70 ) and where the party often ends. Späti culture is one of the reasons why Berlin still is one of the cheapest nights out in Europe.

Kneipes, meanwhile, are like a time travel capsule to a different era – the photos on the wall, the sense that this room has absorbed a hundred years of conversation and smoke. The word Kneipe comes from the German word “kneipen”, which means to pinch or squeeze, a nod to how these tightly packed places were filled with working class, hardworking people, poets, artists and lowlifes, all gathered together for one purpose: to drink cheap beer and talk till the cows come home. Checkout my guide to best bars in Berlin.

Is Berlin cheap or expensive?

Is Berlin cheap or expensive? From the cost of a night stay in a hostel to a cost of a beer in Berlin to the price of a public transport ticket, I summarise it in this guide on how much does it cost to visit Berlin

Berlin is still one of Europe’s most affordable capitals for food

Currywurst stands, Turkish kofteci sandwiches, the best Banh Mi, falafel rolls with peanut sauce – Berlin has an incredible streetfood culture. My favourite is Sahara Imbiss, a Sudanese takeaway that’s been one of my favourite Berlin cheap eats since 2010: fresh falafel, halloumi, kofta, chicken or fohl beans, all topped up with their signature peanut sauce, for €4 a steal. Given the city is home to the biggest Turkish community outside Turkey, don’t leave without trying a legendary Doner Kebab or köfteci sandwich either. Checkout my full guide to the best cheap eats in Berlin.

Best things in life in free and Berlin has a ton of free experiences

Just like my other favourite city in Germany, Hamburg, the thing I love about Berlin is how accessible and open it is to everyone – irrespective of your colour, race or economic means, this city has something for everyone. Some of the best Berlin attractions like the Brandenburg Gate, Mauerpark and the East Side Gallery are free.

Tempelhofer Feld

My favourite place to take friends visiting Berlin is this former airfield turned public park. This is THE place to watch sunset in Berlin plus the airfield track is an amazing place to cycle, rollerblade or even windsurf, or you can have a barbecue or just picnic with friends. In the summer, every evening here feels like a mini festival. Do not miss this place.

The Brandenburg Gate

Berlin in the 18th century had 18 gates to the city and now the only gate that stands is the Brandenburg Gate. Once a symbol of a divided city, the Brandenburg Gate is now the iconic symbol of Berlin and of reunified Germany. It’s worth hanging around the elegant Pariser Platz in front of the Brandenburg Gate to just observing the flow of tourists and also colourful characters that seem to congregate here.

The East Side Gallery

The longest stretch of the Berlin Wall that still remains. In 1990 the city commissioned 105 different artists from around the world to create murals along the wall in celebration of freedom and the reunification of Germany, essentially turning the wall into an outdoor art gallery.

Tip: If you are keen to learn more about what life was like behind the wall, I highly recommend a visit to the very moving and haunting Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer (Berlin Wall Memorial) in Prenzlauer Berg. A memorial to the victims of the Berlin Wall, this stretches for 1.4km along Bernauer Strasse, along the actual course of the Wall. This is probably the best place to learn how all the elements of the hated barrier and the death strip fit together, how the border fortifications were enlarged and perfected over time, and what impact they had on the daily lives of people on both sides.

The Holocaust Memorial

After Brandenburg Gate if you continue to your left and you’ll find yourself in front of the Holocaust Memorial, another moving and symbolic architectural gem of Berlin. The memorial’s 2,711 concrete slabs or “stelae” of the memorial are arranged in a grid pattern and varying in height from 0.2 to 4.8 m help create a confusing, disorientating and claustrophobic ambience which was the creator, Peter Eisenman’s intention. The memorial is one of those places that you have to experience yourself to fully realize it’s meaning.

Mauerpark

One of the largest and most famous flea markets, every Sunday from 7am to 5pm, with associated outdoor karaoke in an amphitheatre where brave souls can belt out their favourite tunes in front of a large crowd from 3pm.

And the one thing not to do in Berlin: visit Checkpoint Charlie. It’s the most overrated tourist attraction in the city – the building has been moved to another site, the Berlin Wall has been torn down, and even the sign you see is not the original. Had it been left in place with 100 metres of wall on either side, it would have been a better look back at history. Checkout my full guide : 33 free things to do in Berlin.

Limited time in Berlin? Focus on one neighbourhood

Each of Berlin’s neighborhoods has its own history and character. Given how huge Berlin is, if your time is limited, I would recommend focussing on one hood. Mitte is a good start. You have the best of Berlin in one area, from the Reichstag, to Museum Island, the iconic TV Tower, the sprawling magnificent Tiergarten park and the ugly but pretty Potsdamer Platz.

Walking up Unter den Linden takes you past the Neue Wache, with its iconic Mother and Son sculpture, and into Lustgarten, a green oasis that’s been through many reincarnations – from a site for political demonstrations during the Weimar Republic to a venue for Hitler’s mass rallies, to its happy current form. For those keen to learn more about what life was like behind the Wall, the Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer, stretching 1.4km along Bernauer Strasse along the actual course of the Wall, is probably the best place to learn how all the elements of the hated barrier and the death strip fit together. Full guide: free walking tour of Berlin Mitte and also my self guided free walking tour of Berlin Wedding

Berlin is one of Europe’s greenest cities

Despite being a busy, dense metropolis, Berlin is one of Europe’s greenest cities. Treptower Park is a treasure trove of many unusual interesting places, each with their own history, dominated by the monumental Soviet War Memorial, the largest Soviet memorial outside Russia. Further out, the Gardens of the World in Marzahn really transport you to a different world, thanks to ten very different gardens drawing inspiration from countries and cultures across the world – my favourite is the Oriental Garden, constructed over two years according to the principles of the Qu’ran’s Surah, where for a few moments you could be in Granada, Seville or Marrakech. Full guide: Berlin outdoor activities.

The perfect day trip from Berlin

On the doorstep of Berlin you have the beautiful area of Brandenburg. Just a 40 minute ride from the chaotic and bustling Berlin, stepping into Potsdam feels like entering a different universe. Often visited as a popular day trip, I quickly discovered that spending a day does not do the place justice. Potsdam was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1990, covering more than 2,064 hectares and containing 150 buildings built between 1730 and 1916, an astounding complex of palaces and parks that were the envy of royalty across the world. Frederick the Great built Sanssouci Palace here to escape the bustling German capital, and named it Sanssouci, meaning “without worry”. Full guide: best things to do in Potsdam.

Getting around is easy, once you know the system

Berlin’s public transport system is extensive, user-friendly and reasonably reliable. It’s also not that expensive given its size, especially compared with other large European cities like London or Paris. Once you know how to use it, there are several legal ways to spend less: picking the cheaper Kurzstrecke (€2.80) over a full-fare Langstrecke ticket (€4.00), sharing a Kleingruppe day pass across a group, saving with a 4-ticket bundle, or switching to the Deutschlandticket at €63 a month if you’re staying two weeks or more. Full guide: how to legally hack the Berlin public transport system.

So, is Berlin worth visiting?

Even after 14 years, there is never a dull moment here. It has so many rich and complex layers of history, one of the most accessible and affordable bar and food scenes in Europe, a huge amount to do for free, and it’s greener than most people expect. Come with more time than you think you need.

More Berlin guides on the blog

• Where to go for a drink in Berlin: 22 best bars / spätis
• Berlin Outdoors: 48 hours off the beaten path
• Perfect weekend getaway from Berlin: Potsdam
• A self guided free walking tour of Berlin Mitte
• 33 free and fun things to do in Berlin
• Berlin Public Transport System Guide: 10 legal travel hacks
• Berlin’s best cheap eats: 18 restaurants from just €4

PS Also checkout my earlier guide to Volcano Hopping in Iceland and a review of the Bus Hostel in Reykjavik.

Where to eat in Reykjavik on a budget

1. Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur

Tryggvagata 1, 101 Reykjavík 

The legendary harbourside hot dog stand that’s been feeding locals since 1937, and once got the nod from Bill Clinton.

Once selected by the Guardian as Europe’s best hot dog stand, Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur (English: The Town’s Best Sausages) for more than half a century have been feeding hungry locals and tourists alike across their chain of hot dog stands in Reykjavík. Billed as Iceland’s national dish, these hotdogs have got the thumbs up from various celebrities visiting the city which include Bill Clinton and Anthony Bourdain. Order the hot dogs with “the works” (in Icelandic “eina með öllu”), i.e., all condiments which include ketchup, sweet mustard, fried onion, raw onion and remolaði, a mayonnaise-based sauce with sweet relish. Hot dogs start from 920 Kr (€6.50).

2. Saegreifinn

Geirsgata 8, 101 Reykjavík 

A ramshackle green fisherman’s hut by the old harbour, famous for its lobster soup and grilled fish skewers.

Saegreifinn, or Sea Baron restaurant down by the old harbour, serves what is claimed to be the best lobster soup on the planet. In a green, old fisherman’s hut you can choose from the lobster soup (2890kr, €20.36) and a choice of fresh seafood (starts from 1990kr, €14) or grilled potato (650kr, €4.98) barbequed on skewers.

3. Noodle Station

Laugavegur 86, 101 Reykjavík 

A spartan noodle counter on the city’s main shopping street, known for its fragrant, star-anise-laced broths.

Noodle Station is a spartan, wee joint that serves up a choice of 3 noodle soups: noodle soup with beef (2610kr, €18.39), noodle soup with chicken (2690Kr, €18.95) and vegetarian noodle (1710kr, €12) soup. Spicy, flavourful with strong notes of star anise and lemongrass, this is a fast and cheap option for visitors to the city.

4. Ramen Momo

Tryggvagata 16, 101 Reykjavík 

Iceland’s first dedicated ramen and dumpling spot, run by a chef-and-partner team using mostly Icelandic-grown ingredients.

Established by ramen chef and founder Kunsang Tsering and his wife Erna Pétursdóttir, Ramen Momo is Iceland’s first restaurant dedicated to ramen and dumplings. The food, similar to Noodle Station, is flavourful and with some great options that include their housemade ramen noodles (1,490 ISK) and gyoza (1,290 ISK). Most of the ingredients used at the restaurant are made in Iceland and you can taste that freshness in the dishes. Special dishes on the menu include their delicious Vegan Tantanmen (3370 Kr), kimchi and seaweed salad (1490 kr each) and Red Beets Gyoza (2350 Kr, 5 pieces).

6. Krua Thai

Skólavörðustígur 21A, 101 Reykjavík 

A fast, friendly and reliably good Thai spot on the road up to Hallgrímskirkja.

If you are visiting Reykjavik and craving something different, then Krua Thai is a great choice for Thai food lovers. Their Chicken Penang Curry and Green curries (starts from 3650 Kr, €25) are fantastic and come highly recommended. Service is quick and friendly, portion sizes are generous and overall a safe option.

7. Reykjavik Chips

Vitastígur 10, 101 Reykjavík 

A cosy Belgian-style chip shop with a serious sauce selection, plus solid burgers and fish and chips.

For the best chips (normal or sweet potato, fluffy on the inside, crunchy on the outside) in Reykjavik plus for excellent fish and burgers at reasonable prices, Reykjavik Chips is the place locals and visitors go. Portion sizes are good and they also have an excellent range of sauces, from ketchup to their signature spicy mayo sauce. Staff are super friendly. Small cone of fries starts from 900kr (€6.35), burgers start from 2590kr (€18.25) and fish and chips from 2900kr (€20.40).

Where to drink in Reykjavik on a budget

8. Kaffi Vínyl

Hverfisgata 76, 101 Reykjavík

A relaxed vegan- and vegetarian-friendly café with a vinyl shop attached, strong on electronica and vintage grooves.

A nice relaxed place for a coffee.

9. Grótta Lighthouse

Grótta, 170 Seltjarnarnes

A tidal lighthouse at the northwesternmost point of the peninsula, with a geothermal footbath tucked among the rocks.

Bring your own drink when visiting the north-westernmost point in Reykjavik where the Grótta Lighthouse is located. From here you enjoy the views over Flaxaflói bay, Esjan and on a clear day see even Snæfellsjökull glacier. Dip your feet into the warm geothermal waters of the Grótta footbath which you can find amongst the rocks by the seashore.

10. Kex Hostel

Skúlagata 28, 101 Reykjavík T

The hostel bar in a converted biscuit factory, centrally located with a strong live music programme.

Or grab a beer here. Centrally located and with a big emphasis on live music, this place is a popular meeting point between locals and tourists.

11. Gaukurinn

Tryggvagata 22, 101 Reykjavík

A lively venue for live music, karaoke, standup comedy, cult movie screenings and a weekly drag cabaret.

From live music, karaoke and standup comedy nights to cult movie screenings and a weekly drag cabaret: Gaukurinn is definitely worth stopping by. Happy Hour starts from 2 till 9pm with beers starting at 600kr (€5).

1. Sa Pesta 

Via dei Giustiniani 16R, Genoa 

A no-frills institution since 1889, serving farinata straight from its wood-fired ovens.

Made from basil, garlic, pine nuts, sea salt, pecorino, parmesan and oil, Trofie al Pesto Genovese is Genoa on a plate. Every Genoese family will swear that their pesto recipe is the best, and no two dishes are the same. Trofie (fresh homemade pasta) is the classic pairing, although Trenette, a narrow, flat, dried pasta similar to linguine, is also excellent. A good place to try this is its namesake trattoria: Sa Pesta , a no-frills old trattoria located in Genoa’s old city district.

2. Focacceria Titti e Fede 

Via dei Macelli di Soziglia 4R, Genoa 

Small, unassuming foccaceria that serves the best focaccia in the old town.

Another typical Genovese delicacy and Genoa’s best cheap eat is focaccia, freshly baked bread typically rolled out or pressed by hand into a thick layer of dough and then baked in a stone-bottom or hearth oven. Focaccia is everything to the Genovese. They dip it in their cappuccino, snack on it at work, or enjoy it with a glass of wine during aperitivo. You can sample focaccia at a bakery, bar or sciamadda. My tip is Focacceria Titti e Fede. You can try focaccia with cheese or onions, and even polenta, here.

3. Antica Sciamadda 

Via San Giorgio 14R, Genoa 

A sciamadda dating back to 1850, known for its farinata and vegetable tarts

Stop at Antica Sciamadda for another Genovese speciality, farinata di ceci. Thin, perfect and cooked in their famous wood oven. This is also a good place to try some local classics like torta di bietole, a tart with chard, and polpettone, a classic potato and green bean, meatloaf-style pie.

4. Antica Friggitoria Carega 

Via di Sottoripa 113R, Genoa 

Fried seafood snacks served under the Sottoripa arcades since 1890.

This hole-in-the-wall pescheria friggitoria by the Porto Antico has been serving fried seafood snacks since 1890, where in a cuoppo, a rolled-up paper cone, you’re served all kinds of fried dishes, from fried calamari and octopus to shrimp and anchovies. A small paper cone starts from €8, and you can also try panella (chickpea fries) and polpo condito (octopus salad) here.

5. Trattoria delle Grazie 

Via delle Grazie 48R, Genoa 

Unpretentious neighbourhood trattoria in the caruggi, strong on the Genovese classics.

If you are looking for a traditional trattoria to sample local Genovese cuisine, then the inexpensive Trattoria delle Grazie, tucked into one of the caruggi near the Old Port, is a safe bet. The menu has all the classics, like Gnocchi al pesto (small potato dumplings with basil-based pesto), Pansoti alla salsa di noci (Ligurian ravioli with a creamy walnut sauce) and Cappon Magro, a wonderful layered cold seafood salad that Genovese people eat on Christmas Eve. Finish off with their excellent tiramisù.

6. Antica Osteria Ravecca 

Via di Ravecca 29R, Genoa 

A cosy osteria near Porta Soprana with a solid list of local pastas and wines.

Another great local restaurant for sampling classic pasta dishes from Liguria is Antica Osteria Ravecca. Their homemade pastas, like Raviolo antica Genova al tocco (ravioli with a traditional Genoese slow-cooked meat sauce), are fantastic, as well as the famous Mandilli al pesto, hand-made pasta shaped like “silk handkerchiefs,” similar to the flat sheets used to make lasagne. Their lunch menu is great value for money.

7. Bar Delle Vigne 

Vico dell’Amor Perfetto 5, Genoa 

A family-run aperitivo spot with a generous free buffet alongside your drink.

Best aperitivo in Genoa, and great for cocktails and Aperol Spritz, is the family-run Bar Delle Vigne. For those of you unaware of the tradition of aperitivo: basically, for the price of a glass of wine, beer or cocktail in the evening (between 5 and 7pm), you get a generous portion of free light bites, where you get a good mix of meats (prosciutto, salami), local cheeses and focaccia with your drink.

9. Paul Vineria Genova (Da Paul) 

Vico dei Caprettari 22R, Genoa 

Cheap glasses of wine served in an atmospheric bar in the heart of the Centro historico

Another classic local wine bar is Paul Vineria Genova. Glasses of wine start from a mere €1. Try their Chardonnay Frizz, a slightly fizzy white wine from the Veneto region, and they also have excellent Malvasia. You can bring your own focaccia sandwiches with you if you’re hungry. The owners are lovely, warm people.

10. Bar Degli Asinelli 

Via di Canneto il Lungo 78R, Genoa 

The classic spot for Corochinato with a slice of lemon and a basket of focaccia.

Last but not least, our favourite way to start an evening in Genoa would be with a glass of the local favourite, Asinello, better known as Corochinato, which is a fortified wine from Genoa, flavoured with an intriguing mix of 16 herbs and spices that include two types of wormwood, cinchona bark and rhubarb. The place to go is Bar Degli Asinelli, where it’s served chilled with a slice of lemon and a generous basket of focaccia. A glass costs a mere €1.50.

Tip: Before sunset, pop over to the pastel-coloured fishing village of Boccadasse on the outskirts of Genoa.

11. La Strambata 

Piazza Nettuno 5R, Boccadasse, Genoa 

Right on the pebble beach in Boccadasse, good for an early aperitivo as the sun goes down.

La Strambata does a great aperitivo, with outside tables facing onto a nice pebble beach with painted fishing boats.

12. Antica Gelateria Amedeo 

Via Boccadasse 7R, Genoa 

Genoa’s most famous gelateria, serving cones since 1927.

After, Antica Gelateria Amedeo is the place to go for their excellent gelato and frozen yoghurt.

The paperwork

Before you look at a single hostel, you need to take care of the paperwork and be prepared. Nearly every hostel that accepts 16 and 17-year-olds without an adult will ask for the same three things:

• Written parental consent, dated and naming the exact stay
• A copy of the parent or guardian’s ID
• Travel insurance in the teenager’s name

Without these, most reception desks will simply turn your daughter/son away at the door, whatever the website says. And she’ll almost always be booked into a private room, never a shared dorm. Dorms are off the table for unaccompanied under-18s at nearly every hostel I looked at.

Where it’s easier, and where it isn’t

Policy varies a lot by country, and this is worth knowing before you plan the trip.

• Germany and France: 16-year-olds can often check in alone, no adult needed
• UK: widely accepted from 16, though some hostels still want supervision for younger guests
• Spain: the default is 18, adult accompaniment required below that
• Nordic countries: some places hold a hard 18+ line, though it’s not universal

None of this is EU-wide law and the policy is down to each hostel, so the only real way to know is to ask.

Hostels worth checking that will host guests 16 or under

1. Amstel House, Berlin 

Set inside a century-old Art Nouveau building in Moabit, this is a big, lively hostel with a 24-hour bar, a guest kitchen, a games room and an outdoor garden. It leans into its history as a former lodging house for young workers, now reworked into bright, budget rooms just a short hop from Berlin Central Station. As in most European hostels, teenagers coming alone must bring a written authorisation from their parents containing dates of arrival and departure, as well as a copy of the ID of the parent authorising it. They are also only allowed to stay in private rooms, never in shared dorms.

2. Hostel Vondelpark, Amsterdam 

Run by Stayokay, this is one of the largest and most modern hostels in Europe, tucked into the edge of Vondelpark itself, a few minutes from the Van Gogh Museum and Leidseplein. It’s a sociable, well-run place that draws everyone from solo travellers to families, with a bar, a restaurant and it has the beautiful Vondelpark on its doorstep, not bad for a city centre hostel. Guests aged 16 or 17 may stay without an adult but must bring a completed consent form.

3. Meininger

Hybrid chain, part hotel, part hostel, with properties across Germany and beyond, each one built around a guest kitchen, a games zone and central locations, these are affordable, clean places to stay with not much atmosphere like a typical backpacker hostel but work equally well for backpackers, families and school groups under one roof. Teens aged 16 or 17 can stay in a private room with permission from a parent or legal guardian. You’ll need to submit the necessary documents to the hotel; without these, they can’t complete check-in. Meininger has an “Authorisation for Underage Person to Travel” form on their site, which should be accompanied by a copy of the legal guardian’s ID. Send it by email, through their contact form, or bring it to reception.

4. YHA Hostels, UK

Britain’s long-standing youth hostel network, with properties ranging from London to countryside properties like Ambleside and Castleton. It’s the classic budget option for UK legs of a trip, well used to hosting school groups, families and solo travellers alike. Without an adult, 16 and 17-year-olds can only stay in private rooms at select 24/7 staffed hostels, and it has to be booked directly on the YHA website, with a signed parental consent form and photo ID. With an adult, 12 to 18-year-olds can stay in shared dorms.

5. Clink Hostels

An independent group of backpacker hostels in Amsterdam, London and Dublin, each set in a distinctive old building, ClinkNOORD in a 1920s Art Deco block on the IJ river, Clink i Lár in the heart of Dublin. They’re known for strong social spaces, in-house bars and feel embedded in the community vs your run of mill chain hostel.At Clink NOORD Amsterdam and Clink i Lár Dublin, guests must be 15 or over between March and October, and 12 or over from November through February, so flag this at the time of booking. Under-18s must be accompanied by an adult at all properties. Children under 16 must book a whole dorm or private room.

6. Generator 

If you are looking for a hostel with great locations and a very youthful social vibe, then the Generator is a solid pick thanks to their great locations in Paris’s hip Bellevue district where, from their cracking rooftop bar, the Khayma you can drink in the panoramic views of the Sacre-Coeur and Montmartre, or you can have a backstage pass to Amsterdam’s daily theatre in trendy Oosterpark with its bustling markets, elegant 19th century buildings and visit the nearby Wereldmuseum Amsterdam museum where guests can delve into the Netherlands’ complex colonial history

Private room bookings by unaccompanied minors are considered in Denmark, Ireland, and Germany for ages 16 to 18, and in the Netherlands for ages 17 to 18 only. A parental consent form, filled in and signed by parents or legal guardians, is required as well as a copy of the parents/legal guardian’s identification card is needed.

7. Ostello Bello 

Independent, Italian, and full of character, from Como and Milan down to Palermo, the hostel are social, very popular with locals, a great energy thanks to the volunteers and also cool events that range from paint and sip to their legendary karaoke night and the legendary evening aperitivo , a spread of Italian food and snacks for the price of a drink, plus big shared kitchens with garden herbs and free pasta and vegetables-perfect if your son or daughter is on a tight budget!

8. Circus Hostel, Berlin

A proper independent, with a basement microbrewery, its own walking tours on 1920s architecture and Cold War history, and, memorably, the world’s only museum dedicated to David Hasselhoff.

9. Czech Inn, Prague

 A private room or apartment in a 19th-century Art Deco building on Krymska Street. The basement bar runs live music and one of Prague’s best comedy nights, with breakfast for around €6. It sits in Vršovice, a proper local neighbourhood with independent galleries and even a working vineyard nearby.

What to look for, beyond the age policy

A few things I always check when I’m researching family friendly hostels apply just as much here:

• The availability of private or family rooms: Expect dorm-style bunk beds in many of them, which is no bad thing for a group of friends travelling together.

• Stay in a separate floor or wing away from the main dorms and bar area. It buys a bit of insulation from the late-night noise without losing the sociable bits of hostel life.

• A communal kitchen. Handy for keeping costs down over a backpacking trip stretch, and something worth checking for specifically since not every hostel with private rooms has one.

• Games rooms, common lounges, anything with a bit of life to it. The best hostels give teenagers somewhere to hang out together that isn’t just the bedroom.

There’s no single Europe wide age policy. Policies shift (YHA tightened theirs for 2026), and what a hostel’s website says isn’t always what the person at the desk enforces. Before you book anything, please email or call the hostel directly, get their current policy in writing, and only then hand over payment. It’s a five-minute email that saves a very awkward moment at check-in in a country you don’t know.

If your daughter or sons  trip includes a night or two with the whole family before the friends peel off on their own leg, my guide to family friendly hostels in Europe has some good options.

I’ll be honest with you. On my first visit to Prague, back in 2005, the food scene was quite limited with a big focus on hearty Czech and Hungarian cuisine, with a few exceptions. However, over the last 2 decades, as the city has blossomed, the food scene keeps on growing and diversifying. This guide is a love letter to all my favorite affordable spots in the city, with a few exceptions. PS Checkout also my guide to the best things to do in Prague.

1. Lokal Dlouhaaa

A modern twist on the classic Czech pub

Address: Dlouhá 33, Staré Město

Ever since I’ve been coming to Prague, I’ve had a soft spot for the Lokal chain of pubs. They offer a modern twist on classic Czech staple dishes at very affordable prices, with the added incentive of delicious cold Pilsner Urquell straight from the tank. I love the branch in Malá Strana and the slightly less raucous outpost in Karlín. Start with generous, delicious starters like sausages braised in dark beer (115 CZK) or liver pate with cranberries (95 CZK). Move on to mains like the pork neck steak (200g) with pepper sauce (225 CZK). Finish with their excellent apple strudel and whipped cream (55 CZK).

2. Soul Kitchen

A tiny slice of Greece in Vinohrady

Address: Korunní 24, Vinohrady

Not Czech at all, but worth the detour out to Vinohrady, Soul Kitchen is a tiny Greek taverna tucked away near Náměstí Míru, serving proper gyros pitas, souvlaki, meze plates, great Greek salads, keftedes (meatballs) with pitta, and tzatziki and salad. Finish with bougatsa and a strong Greek coffee. Small and popular, so go early or be ready to wait for a table.

3. Sisters Bistro v Dlouhé

A twist on the Czech classic, chlebíčky

Address: Dlouhá 39, Staré Město

When in Czechia, a must eat is chlebíčky, a local version of the open-faced sandwich, with toppings that might include ham, turkey, egg, potato salad, mayonnaise, salmon, or a spot of something green like a salad or tomatoes. My go-to place for chlebíčky is Sisters Bistro v Dlouhé, next door to Lokal in Staré Město. They do an eclectic variety, ranging from rye bread, avocado, tomatoes, prawns, coriander (45 CZK) to beetroot and goat’s cheese (57 CZK) to anchovies and herring (57 CZK).

4. Banh-Mi-Ba

Good quality, budget-friendly option for banh mi (best sandwich in the world!)

Address: Rybná 26, Staré Město ( Multiple outlets including the train station )

Another good budget-friendly, on-the-move choice, across the road from Sisters and also near the train station in Prague, is Banh-Mi-Ba. The banh mi sandwiches are fab, but the pho is average, so I’d give that a miss. They also do nice spring rolls and great Vietnamese coffee.

5. Antonínovo Pekařství

Budget-friendly bakery, perfect for breakfast

Address: Laubova 1689/4, Žižkov

If you still haven’t had breakfast, or need a snack between meals or a good cup of coffee, this local bakery in Žižkov is a great stop (they also have outlets in Holešovice, Karlín and Vršovice). The first thing that hits you walking in is the wonderful aroma of freshly baked bread. You can choose from 5 to 6 different types, all baked on the premises. Pair it with the soup of the day, or one of their open-faced sandwiches. Sabrina loved her egg spread sandwich, while I went for beetroot and cream cheese. Filling, good and cheap: two sandwiches came to 75 CZK, which is less than €3. They also do local sweet baked goods and good ice cream.

Not cheap but worth the splurge…

6. Kuchyň

Castle-side dining with the best view in Prague

Address: Hradčanské náměstí 1, Hradčany

Come here for one of the best views of Prague. It is incredible, and even better with a cold Pilsner Urquell in hand. The food is a cut above your average hearty Czech fare too, based on recipes from the kitchens of 16th century aristocracy. We started with chicken liver pate with plum puree (125 CZK) and Vienna frankfurters with mustard and horseradish (95 CZK), both delicious. I’m not usually a pate fan, but this one won me over. For mains, the beef hanger in red wine with potato dumplings (245 CZK) was sensational. The signature dill sauce with eggs and potatoes (168 CZK) was nice too, though neither of us are big dill fans. After all the beer and food, the strawberries with cream and nuts (95 CZK) was the perfect way to finish.

7. Kantýna

A butcher’s counter and canteen rolled into one

Address: Politických vězňů 1511/5, Nové Město

Just off Wenceslas Square, if you love meat, no-frills Czech home cooking with generous portions at good prices, then this is your place. In this cavernous canteen-style dining hall, you can choose from the in-house butcher grilled cuts of ribeye, steak, chicken or sausages which are then cooked for you. (There is also a cooked meat counter.) You can choose your sides, like mashed potatoes or veggies, with a variety of sauces that include chimichurri sauce. There is a separate counter for ordering drinks. It’s loud, casual beer hall style dining that is great with friends or loved ones.

8. Masala Keramička

Great value Indian food in Prague

Address: Keramická 3, Prague 7 (Letná)

Tucked into a quiet corner of Letná near the Technical Museum. Part of a small local chain, it does contemporary Indian classics like butter chicken and chicken tikka masala, alongside veg thalis if you are looking to try a mix of dishes in one meal. There’s a garden for warmer days and a lunch menu from 159 CZK (€6.58).

9. Mundo Picante

Great value Mexican in Prague

Address: Krymská 8, Vršovice

A hole-in-the-wall Mexican takeaway-style spot on Vršovice’s Krymská strip, not far from the Czech Inn hostel, serving easy tacos, burritos, quesadillas and nachos. Tacos range from beer barbacoa to BBQ chicken to Indian veg. They have a Taco Tuesday where tacos are 50 CZK (€2) a piece. Frozen margaritas are on point too.

10. Beas Dhaba

Pay-by-weight vegetarian dhaba

Address: Týnská 19, Staré Město

A good, affordable option in Staré Město that I have been visiting for more than 20 years. It’s a self-service, pay-by-weight vegetarian dhaba. The food is simple, with a decent range of veg curries, dahl, plus raita, pakoras and also a good salad selection. Grab a tray, load it up, and pay for the weight at the till. There’s a quiet courtyard out back for warmer days, and a jug of free water on every table. Go an hour before closing for a 50% discount on your meal.

11. Garuda Restaurant

A decent, affordable taste of Indonesia

Address: Milady Horákové 686/12, Prague 7 (Holešovice)

As a newcomer to Indonesian cuisine, I can’t claim any authority on authenticity, but on taste and cost, this was a decent lunch option in Prague 7. The daily lunch menu changes, but we enjoyed traditional dishes like nasi goreng and sapi rendang. A small bowl of soup comes free with any lunch dish, so for 145 CZK (about €6.50), it’s pretty good value.

12. Manifesto Market Smíchov

Prague’s best-known street food market

Address: Náměstí 14. října 82/16, Smíchov

A proper cultural and gastro hub. Come any day of the week and you’ll find a bubbly, fun-filled atmosphere with a wide variety of food from upcoming, budding chefs: tacos, hummus, craft burgers, fresh seafood, plus cocktails and fresh, frothy Pilsner Urquell straight from the tank. Prices are above average, so prepare to splurge a little. It’s set in a former parking lot wedged between the 20th century National House of Smíchov and an old market hall, and the design is genuinely eye-catching: food stations housed in corrugated metal-covered units surrounding a shallow pool.

13. Garage Karlín

A taste of Canada in the heart of Prague

Address: Křížíkova 58, Karlín

There’s a strange novelty in finding Canada’s beloved fast food, poutine, in Prague, but it’s really good, especially after a few cold Pilsner Urquells at Lokal. Fries, delicious cheese curds and gravy — this is a place I keep coming back to whenever I’m in Prague. Top it up with pulled pork, shredded beef or bacon.

Drink stops worth the detour

14. Vinicní Altán

A hidden vineyard terrace with the best views in the city

Address: Havlíčkovy sady 1369, Vinohrady

A vineyard hidden away in the heart of the city. Come here for beautiful views and very affordable, good wine. I love this place.

15. Veltlín

My favourite wine bar in Prague

Address: Křižíkova 115, Karlín

The guys here know their wines, and if you want to discover Czech natural wines, this is the place to come to.

Tip: The Pilsner Urquell Experience

A 90-minute, deep dive into their proud brewing history

Address: 28. října 377/13, Nové Město (bottom of Wenceslas Square)

Not strictly a cheap eat, but if you’re heading to Prague this summer, it’s worth the spend. Spread across 3 floors just off Wenceslas Square in a beautiful Art Nouveau building (the former Prague Central Bank), the new visitor centre is a fast-paced, hands-on, interactive museum telling the story of the country’s most popular beer.

With wireless headsets, light shows and projections, you learn how the first pilsner was created, covering everything from the ancient gods dedicated to beer, to its history in Bohemia going back to St Wenceslas, patron saint of the beverage, to exactly how the distinctive light-coloured Pilsner-style beer was developed by accident, all told in a light-hearted way. Midway through the tour, you get your first taste of the beer (this made me very happy) and meet one of their brewmasters, before learning about the brewing process. I picked up some fun facts I didn’t know before, like the importance of foam in the perfect Czech pour: it keeps the beer from going flat and adds to the taste.Before you leave the storytelling floor, there’s a 360° game hall where you can play a round of ice hockey. The tour finishes in the beautiful Beer Hall upstairs, where you’re offered two more beers by friendly tapsters. Unlike most brewery tours, this 90-minute experience involves a lot more beer drinking, and is a lot more fun for it.

At 441 CZK (€19), it isn’t cheap, but between the experience, the friendly staff and tapsters, and three drinks included in the tour, I think it’s good value.

Bonus tip: Visitors can also attend the Tapster Academy and learn to pour beer three different ways: the hladinka, šnyt and mlíko. Great fun, and a proper splurge at 825 CZK (€35), so it depends on your budget and how much beer you want to drink (all the beers you pour are yours to keep, and we poured probably 6 or 7 and barely drank them). In hindsight, I wish we’d had lunch first, so go on an empty stomach. Don’t skip the brand shop either: you can take home a personalised, hand-engraved beer mug or a bottled Pilsner Urquell with your name on it.

I like to think of Ile de Ré as the island of “no tomorrow”. This is the perfect place to lose all track of time. You happily live in the moment here and escape the worries and stresses of everyday life. There is not even the chance of finding a pub to watch my beloved Liverpool FC. No distractions. Absolutely none. Bliss. Given its popularity, the “white island” is best visited in autumn or spring, when you can sidestep the summer invasion of well-heeled Parisians and Brits. It is also wonderfully accessible to budget travellers, just half an hour from the charming port town of La Rochelle, which is well served by budget airlines. ( Checkout my recently updated guide to the best things to do in La Rochelle )

I went in September, when the island was full of wrinkly pensioners and families soaking up the last of the late summer sun. At just 30 kilometres long and 5 wide, Ile de Ré is made for exploring by bicycle, with over 100km of cycle tracks linking all ten villages, never more than 10km apart. Which is a bit of a bummer, since I am not much of a cyclist. I prefer to walk.

And Ile de Ré’s streets were made for walking.

Close your eyes a moment. Don’t look at the pictures. Just picture it. Long winding lanes lined with whitewashed cottages. Picture-postcard blue shutters and green doors. Baskets of flowers hanging from every house. Pretty wrought iron balconies. And maybe, just maybe, the odd black cat dozing on a windowsill.

Getting around the island

If you don’t fancy cycling, you can hire a car, but you may not need to. From April to September a free electric shuttle called RespiRé loops between the main villages of Saint-Martin, La Flotte, Sainte-Marie and Le Bois-Plage, which is ideal if you are travelling on a budget and happy to walk the rest. Otherwise the regional Line 150 coach runs the length of the island all year.

Explore Saint-Martin and meet the donkeys in trousers

One of my first stops was the charming port town of Saint-Martin. You know you have arrived when, just outside the ancient fortifications, you meet the woolly and very cuddly “donkeys in trousers” who are the island’s lucky charm and symbol.

Since the 19th century the donkey has been a hard-working citizen of Ile de Ré, used to collect seaweed along the coast, to work the salt marshes and to help in the fields. The tradition of dressing them in gingham trousers dates back to protecting their succulent legs from the mosquitoes that plagued the marshes. Genuinely.

Saint-Martin itself is a bustling harbour ringed with lovely open-air terrace cafés, perfect for sitting in the sun with a cold bière and watching the boats, with a clutch of charming boutiques nearby if you fancy a browse.

And if the idea of creamy, salty flavours in your ice cream appeals, test your tastebuds at the stylish La Martinière parlour, which serves dozens of flavours of ice cream and sorbet ranging from the pedestrian to the gloriously bizarre.

Climb the church of Saint-Martin

If the lack of exercise is starting to nag at you, climb the bell tower of the 12th century church of Saint-Martin. Fought over by Catholics and Protestants alike, the church wears the scars of a colourful and brutal past. From the top you get mesmerising panoramic views over the Breton Strait and the rooftops of the town below.

The lighthouse of all lighthouses: Phare des Baleines

There are lighthouses, and then there is the Phare des Baleines. Standing 57 metres tall and facing down the stormy Atlantic from its rocky perch on the island’s north-western tip, this is a working lighthouse whose beam can be seen 50km out to sea. There is a museum at its foot where you can dig into the history of lighthouses and how they work.

Climbing the 257 steps up a memorable, vertigo-inducing spiral staircase brings you out at the top, where you are rewarded with sweeping views of the island’s coastline and the broad, fiery expanse of the ocean. Tickets start from around €4.35 for the lighthouse alone, with combined lighthouse, old tower and museum tickets from roughly €7.65, depending on the season. It is the most visited spot on the island, so come before noon or after 5pm to dodge the crowds.

Cycle to Le Bois Plage

Le Bois Plage is a small coastal town to the south of the island. Hire a bike from St Martin and pedal down to this charming sea side town along with any required beach paraphernalia. Apart from the charm of the beach, the cycle paths skirting marshes, oyster beds and vast stretches of unbridled Atlantic coastline are
a sight to behold. There is a very nice indoor market in town where you can pick up any required picnic supplies.

Visit the Cistercian Abbaye des Chateliers

About two miles away from St Martin, you will find the harbour town of La Flotte. Interestingly, La Flotte is slated as one of the most beautiful villages in France (Plus Beaux Villages de France). Enjoy either a morning coffee or evening drink, sitting at the harbourside or indulge in an ice cream whilst wandering the
shopping streets or the market. The grounds of the ancient Abbaye, built in 1156, are free to enter
and make for lovely photo opportunities. The ancient walls set against the cliff edge will transport you back to another era. The absence of a roof structure will have you looking up into the skies and trying to reconstruct the ambience of this sacred place in your mind’s eye.

Visit an Oyster Shack

One of the greatest pleasures on Ile de Ré costs almost nothing and takes about five minutes to find. Pull up a chair at one of the island’s oyster huts, order a dozen fresh from the water in front of you, pour a glass of local white wine and just sit there. There is nowhere better to be.

The island has been producing oysters for centuries and the huts, little coloured cabins dotted along the cycle paths and salt marsh edges, are where the farmers sell direct from their own beds. You are eating something that was in the sea a very short time ago, and you can taste it. A dozen oysters will set you back around €8 to €12 depending on size, and a glass of Pineau or a local white another €4 or so. One of the best value lunches you will have anywhere in France.

La Cabane Océane at La Flotte is the place to visit. Sitting on the site of an old oursinerie, an urchin farm, on the oyster beds of Petit Praud, it has a wonderful shaded terrace overlooking the sea. Everything you will eat here is harvested by them: Fines, Spéciales and Cocktail oysters, plus shellfish depending on what has come in that day. There is also a small boutique where you can buy oysters to take away. No reservations needed.

Address: 9 Route du Praud, 17630 La Flotte en Ré. Tel: 05 46 66 54 08.

Sample the mussels at L’Aile de Ré

For seafood lovers, and mussel lovers especially, a meal at Le Morinand in Le Bois-Plage is a must. Honesty flag for longtime readers: I originally raved about La Bouvette and its magnificent open-coal-grilled mussels here, run by Laurent Mertz. La Bouvette closed back in 2012 and the spot is now home to L’Aile de Ré, run by Ludivine and Julien, who kept the seafood focus the place was always loved for. It is a small, family-run dining room facing the vines and fields, and the mussels, smoked over a fire of pine needles, is still the main draw. Worth booking ahead, as they seat only a few dozen.

L’Aile de Ré, Raise Flottaise, Le Morinand, 17580 Le Bois-Plage-en-Ré. Tel: 05 46 09 29 87.

Where to stay: Hotel Le Vieux Gréement

In the heart of the village of La Couarde-sur-Mer sits the charming and still very lovely Hotel Le Vieux Gréement. You are right in the hub of things here, with a bar and tapas terrace on site, a beautiful church across the square, a cracking boulangerie a few steps away, and some of the island’s finest beaches a five minute walk down the road.

It has grown up a little since I first stayed. It is now a 3-star with 19 individually decorated rooms in the local rétais style. Standard doubles start from €115 in low season up to €145 in high season, with breakfast at €14 a head and a small tourist tax on top. Still a warm, characterful and well-run place, and good value for the setting.

Hotel Le Vieux Gréement

13 Place Carnot, 17670 La Couarde-sur-Mer. Tel: 05 46 29 82 18. Book direct at levieuxgreement.com.

Getting to Ile de Ré

La Rochelle airport is served by budget airlines, with Ryanair running seasonal routes from London Stansted, Dublin, Brussels Charleroi, Porto and more (worth checking current schedules before you book, as these change each season).

From La Rochelle’s SNCF train station, the regional Line 150 coach runs across the bridge to the island’s ten villages all year round. It costs just €2.50 one way or €4.50 return, and you buy your ticket on board or via the Ticket Modalis app. No need to reserve. A quick and very cheap way onto the island.

Plus, if you missed, here are my earlier guides to Bordeaux, Angoulême and Cognac which all share excellent connections with Ile De Re and can be combined, for a short break or longer visit.

Having lived as a digital nomad for 14 years, whenever I step into a hostel or meet other nomads, this simple question always floors me.

I have a complicated relationship with the idea of what home means. I guess having been born in England, moving to India at the age of 9, heading to Scotland for university at the age of 19 and then deciding to go fully nomadic in 2012, home is no longer a fixed place for me. It’s a feeling of connection.

I like to think I have not just one but several homes around the world where I feel happy and at ease. Lisbon. Athens. Vienna. Bangkok. Chiang Mai. Koh Lanta. Kolkata. Edinburgh. Madeira. Berlin.

Over the years I have developed a happy habit of returning to certain places. While the itch to explore new places is strong, with the constant travelling and intense lifestyle that nomads have, I have found great comfort in going back to the same spots.

It is like slipping into a pair of well worn shoes. You already know your way around the city, you have favourite haunts you are looking forward to revisiting, you know the language and the customs, you have a coworking space you like to work from, and you have a network of friends and contacts from previous trips that makes everything much easier than starting from scratch. Running a business from the road can be exhausting, and the fewer unknowns, the better you can focus your energy on the things that matter to you.

I’ve created a few rituals and ideas to give me a sense of home and connection wherever I travel. Here are my top 3 tips for you.

1. Stay at hostels

Rooted in the local community, hostels plug me into the DNA of a place. Great for meeting fellow solo travellers, and they usually have brilliant spaces to work from too.

Hostels I’d recommend for nomads: The Yard Hostel Bangkok and The Yard Hostel Chiang Mai, Circus Hostel Berlin, Next House Copenhagen, Sandeman Hostel and Suites Porto, Bogentrakt in Chur, Ostello Bello, YellowSquare, Zeus is Loose Thessaloniki, Hyve Basel, and Superbude Hamburg and Vienna. (Check out my guide to the best hostels for nomads.)

2. Invest in working from a good coworking space

The best coworking spaces feel like hostels: community, great places to work from and brilliant for connecting with creatives.

My favourites: Cowork Funchal, juggleHUB, St Oberholz, betahaus, Impact Hub Athens, Beet Community Palermo, KoHub Koh Lanta and Alt Coliving Chiang Mai.

3. Get into a routine

A few rituals and a routine give you structure on the road. Always start with a good cup of coffee. Aeropress is magic. The gym has become really important for us, and if there isn’t one nearby, a run or a walk along the beach works just as well. Cooking also brings a sense of home, so I carry a bag of Indian spices wherever I go.

And last but not least, a good travel adapter keeps you connected wherever you land. Our TESSAN Universal Travel Adapter, who kindly supported this video and our work, has been indispensable. If you are looking to reduce the number of adapters and lighten your backpack, then you should enter below our fantastic giveaway of 5 of the TESSAN Ultra Thin Universal Travel Adapter PD 20W. Equipped with 2 USB-C ports and 1 USB-A port, this adapter you can charge your smartphone, tablets, and accessories efficiently at airports, hotels, or cafes.

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In the video below, I have tried to explain what home means to me and how the concept of “home” has evolved over the years.

What does home mean to you? Would love to hear your thoughts in the comments section below and good luck with entering our TESSAN giveaway!