Kittens typically poop at least once a day. Very young kittens, especially those still nursing, may go more frequently, around two to four times a day. As they transition to solid food, their bowel movements may become more regular and occur once or twice a day.
Kittens should wee several times a day. Young kittens, especially those still nursing, may urinate frequently due to their small bladders and high liquid intake. As they grow and start eating solid food, they will generally pee less often but still multiple times a day.
Kittens usually learn to use a litter box quite quickly, often by observing their mother. Once trained, they typically prefer to use the same place every time.
But it’s possible that your kitten has pooped or peed somewhere other than their litter box, especially if they are still learning or if the litter box isn’t easily accessible. Check under furniture, in corners, and other hidden spots where your kitten might have chosen to go.
Here are some signs that your kitten may be constipated or having trouble urinating:
A diet low in fibre or lacking in proper nutrients can lead to constipation. Ensure your kitten is eating a balanced diet appropriate for their age. Consult with your vet about high-fibre foods or supplements.
Not drinking enough water can cause hard, dry stools and reduced urination. Make sure your kitten has access to fresh water at all times. Wet cat food can also help increase their fluid intake.
Changes in the environment, new pets, or unfamiliar people can stress kittens and disrupt their elimination habits. Create a calm, secure environment for your kitten. Provide hiding spots and maintain a consistent routine.
If the litter box is dirty, too small, or in a noisy area, your kitten may avoid using it. Keep the litter box clean and place it in a quiet, accessible location. Ensure it is the right size for your kitten.
Conditions such as intestinal blockages, urinary tract infections, or other medical issues can cause problems. If your kitten hasn’t pooped or peed in more than a day or shows signs of distress, consult your vet immediately for a thorough examination and appropriate treatment.
Physical activity helps stimulate bowel movements. A sedentary kitten may become constipated. Encourage play and exercise to keep your kitten active. Interactive toys and regular playtime can help.
Ingested fur from grooming can accumulate in the digestive tract, causing blockages. Regular brushing can help reduce the amount of fur your kitten ingests. Special diets or hairball remedies may also be beneficial.
Mother cats play a crucial role in stimulating their kittens to eliminate waste, especially in the first few weeks of life.
Mother cats lick their kittens’ genital and anal areas to stimulate them to urinate and defecate. This not only helps the kittens to wee or poo but also keeps them clean.
If you are caring for very young kittens without a mother, you will need to help them wee or poo:
Monitoring your kitten’s bowel and urinary habits is crucial for ensuring their overall health. While occasional constipation or urinary issues can be normal, prolonged problems should be addressed promptly. If you’re ever in doubt, don’t hesitate to consult your vet to ensure your kitten receives the care they need.
Before you go, make sure you check out other kitten care tips too –
Why is my kitten not eating?
Why My Kitten Won’t Stop Meowing?
Why My Kitten Won’t Stop Biting Me?
Why My Kitten Won’t Stop Sneezing?
Why My Kitten Won’t Drink Water?
Why My Kitten Won’t Stop Licking Me?
While you are here, make sure you check out other kitten care tips too –
Why is my kitten not eating?
Why My Kitten Won’t Stop Meowing?
Why My Kitten Won’t Stop Biting Me?
Why My Kitten Won’t Stop Sneezing?
Why My Kitten Won’t Drink Water?
Why My Kitten Hasn’t Pooped or Peed
Yes, it is quite normal for kittens to lick people. Licking is a natural behaviour in cats that starts from a young age. Mother cats lick their kittens to clean them and stimulate their bodily functions. As kittens grow, they may lick their littermates as a sign of affection and bonding. When kittens lick their human companions, they often continue this behaviour as a way of expressing love and seeking comfort.
In most cases, licking is a sign of affection. Kittens show love and trust by grooming their owners. It’s similar to the way they would groom their mother or siblings. When your kitten licks you, it’s their way of saying they trust you and see you as part of their family.
However, if the licking becomes excessive, it might indicate an underlying issue. Obsessive licking can be a sign of stress, anxiety, or a medical condition. It’s essential to observe the context and frequency of the licking to determine whether it’s a harmless act of affection or something more concerning.
In most cases, licking is a harmless behaviour that signifies affection and bonding. However, if your kitten’s licking becomes excessive or is accompanied by other signs of distress, such as hiding, aggression, or changes in eating habits, it might indicate an underlying issue. Here are some points to consider:
Kittens licking their owners is common and often endearing. It usually signifies affection, grooming instincts, or a need for attention. However, if the licking becomes excessive, it might be a sign of stress, anxiety, or a medical issue. It is important to understand the reasons behind it. Remember, if in doubt, always seek advice from your vet.
]]>Sneezing in kittens, much like in humans, is a reflex triggered by irritation in the nasal passages. This can be due to a variety of reasons, ranging from benign irritants to more serious health concerns. Understanding the causes can help you determine whether your kitten needs medical attention or just a little extra care at home.
When your kitten sneezes, it’s important to note any accompanying symptoms, as they can provide clues about the underlying cause.
Yes, kittens can get what is often referred to as “feline flu,” which is caused by feline herpesvirus (FHV) and feline calicivirus (FCV). These viruses are highly contagious and common in cats, especially those in shelters or multi-cat environments.
Persistent sneezing in kittens can be caused by a variety of factors, from simple irritants to more serious health issues like respiratory infections or feline flu. By understanding the potential causes and accompanying symptoms, you can better determine the appropriate course of action to help your kitten feel better. Always consult with a vet if you’re concerned about your kitten’s health, especially if the sneezing is accompanied by other symptoms like nasal discharge or snorting. With the right care and attention, your kitten will be back to their playful, healthy self in no time.
Make sure you check out other kitten care tips too –
Why is my kitten not eating?
Why My Kitten Won’t Stop Meowing?
Why My Kitten Won’t Stop Biting Me?
Why My Kitten Won’t Drink Water?
Why My Kitten Won’t Stop Licking Me?
Why My Kitten Hasn’t Pooped or Peed
Yes, it is entirely normal for kittens to bite. Biting is a natural part of kitten development and play behaviour. Kittens use their mouths to explore the world around them, interact with their littermates, and learn important social skills. However, while occasional biting is normal, persistent or aggressive biting needs to be addressed to ensure it doesn’t become a problematic behaviour as they grow older.
While you are here, make sure you check out other kitten care tips too –
Why is my kitten not eating?
Why My Kitten Won’t Stop Meowing?
Why My Kitten Won’t Drink Water?
Why My Kitten Won’t Stop Sneezing?
Why My Kitten Won’t Stop Licking Me?
Why My Kitten Hasn’t Pooped or Peed
Sometimes kittens bite when they are playing and that’s completely normal. But sometimes it’s hard to tell if they are play biting and aggressive biting. Here’s a few tips:
Understanding the underlying reasons for your kitten’s biting behaviour can help you address it effectively. Here are some common reasons why kittens bite and how to handle each situation:
1. Teething:
2. Playfulness:
3. Attention-Seeking:
4. Overstimulation:
5. Fear or Anxiety:
6. Lack of Socialization:
With proper training and socialising, most kittens will outgrow biting as they mature. By addressing the behaviour early and consistently using positive reinforcement techniques, you can help your kitten learn that biting is not acceptable. Here’s what to keep in mind:
If your kitten’s biting persists or worsens, it may be helpful to consult with a veterinarian or a professional animal behaviourist. They can provide additional guidance and strategies tailored to your kitten’s specific needs.
]]>Yes, it’s quite normal for kittens to meow frequently. Meowing is one of the primary ways kittens communicate with their human caregivers. Since they are still learning about their new environment and expressing their needs, kittens often use meowing to get your attention, express discomfort, or communicate other needs. However, excessive meowing can sometimes indicate an underlying issue that needs addressing.
Kittens meow for various reasons, and each meow can have a different meaning. Here are some common things your kitten might be trying to tell you:
If your kitten won’t stop meowing, here are some steps you can take to address the behaviour:
While it’s normal for kittens to meow frequently, excessive meowing can sometimes indicate an underlying issue. By understanding the reasons behind your kitten’s vocalisations and addressing their needs, you can help them feel more comfortable and reduce their meowing. Remember, patience and observation are key. If you’re ever in doubt about your kitten’s behaviour, don’t hesitate to seek advice from your veterinarian.
Make sure you check out other kitten care tips too –
Why is my kitten not eating?
Why My Kitten Won’t Drink Water?
Why My Kitten Won’t Stop Biting Me?
Why My Kitten Won’t Stop Sneezing?
Why My Kitten Won’t Stop Licking Me?
Why My Kitten Hasn’t Pooped or Peed
Kittens typically start drinking water around the time they begin weaning, which is usually between 3 to 4 weeks of age. Prior to weaning, kittens receive all their hydration from their mother’s milk. As they transition to solid food, they also gradually start to drink water to supplement their fluid intake.
The weaning process usually begins when kittens show an interest in solid food, which can occur as early as 3 weeks of age but typically starts around 4 weeks. As kittens begin to nibble on solid food, they also become more curious about their surroundings, including exploring the water bowl. At this stage, it’s essential to provide fresh, clean water in a shallow bowl that is easily accessible to the kittens.
While kittens may start drinking water around 3 to 4 weeks of age, they may not drink large amounts initially. It’s essential to monitor their water intake and ensure they have access to water at all times, especially as they continue to grow and become more active.
Sometimes it’s difficult to tell if your kittens are dehydrated. But here are some common signs to watch out for:
1. Lethargy: Dehydrated kittens may appear unusually tired or lethargic. They may lack their usual energy levels and show little interest in playing or exploring.
2. Dry Gums and Mouth: Check your kitten’s gums and mouth for moisture. Dehydrated kittens may have dry, sticky gums and mouth due to decreased saliva production.
3. Sunken Eyes: Dehydration can cause the eyes to appear sunken or dull. Check for any changes in the appearance of your kitten’s eyes, such as a lack of moisture or brightness.
4. Loss of Skin Elasticity: Gently pinch the skin on the back of your kitten’s neck or between their shoulder blades. In hydrated kittens, the skin should quickly return to its normal position. Dehydrated kittens may have skin that remains “tented” or takes longer to return to normal.
5. Decreased Urination: Monitor your kitten’s litter box habits. Dehydrated kittens may produce less urine or have difficulty urinating due to decreased fluid intake.
6. Panting or Rapid Breathing: Dehydrated kittens may pant or breathe rapidly as their body tries to compensate for fluid loss. Pay attention to any changes in your kitten’s breathing patterns.
7. Weakness or Collapse: Severe dehydration can lead to weakness, collapse, or even unconsciousness in kittens. If your kitten shows signs of severe dehydration, seek veterinary attention immediately.
If you notice any of these signs of dehydration in your kitten, it’s essential to take action promptly. Offer your kitten fresh, clean water and encourage them to drink. If they continue to show signs of dehydration or if you’re concerned about their health, contact your veterinarian immediately! Dehydration can be serious, especially in young kittens.
1. Water Bowl Placement
Sometimes it’s as simple as where the water bowl is placed. Kittens may avoid drinking if the bowl is near their food, litter box, or in a high-traffic area where they feel vulnerable. Move the water bowl to a quiet, low-traffic area away from their food and litter box. Cats prefer to drink from a separate water source, so providing multiple water bowls in different locations can encourage drinking.
2. Water Quality
Cats are sensitive to the taste, smell, and temperature of water. If the water tastes or smells off, they may avoid drinking it. Stale or dirty water can also deter them. Provide fresh, clean water in a clean bowl daily. Some cats prefer running water, so consider investing in a pet fountain. Using filtered water can also improve taste and smell.
3. Bowl Type
The type of water bowl may influence a kitten’s willingness to drink. Some kittens may not like the shape, size, or material of their water bowl. Experiment with different types of bowls, including shallow dishes, wide-bottomed bowls, or stainless steel bowls. Avoid using plastic bowls, as they can retain odours and harbour bacteria.
4. Illness or Pain
Kittens may avoid drinking if they are feeling unwell or experiencing pain, such as dental issues, urinary tract infections, or gastrointestinal problems. Monitor your kitten for other signs of illness, such as lethargy, vomiting, or changes in litter box habits. If you suspect they are unwell, speak to a vet.
5. Stress or Anxiety
Stressful situations, such as moving to a new home, changes in routine, or the presence of new pets or people, can cause kittens to reduce their water intake. Create a calm, comfortable environment for your kitten, providing hiding spots and opportunities for mental and physical stimulation. Gradually introduce changes and give them time to adjust.
6. Flavoured Water
Some kittens may refuse plain water but enjoy flavoured water or water mixed with wet food. Offer water flavoured with low-sodium broth, tuna juice, or water from canned cat food. Gradually reduce the amount of flavouring over time to encourage drinking plain water.
7. Medical Conditions
Certain medical conditions, such as kidney disease, diabetes, or hyperthyroidism, can affect a kitten’s thirst and water intake. Schedule a vet examination to rule out underlying medical issues. Diagnostic tests may be necessary to identify the cause of decreased water intake, and treatment will depend on the specific condition diagnosed.
8. Seasonal Changes
Kittens may drink less water during colder months or in dry climates when the air is less humid. Provide additional sources of hydration, such as wet food or water-rich treats. Consider using a humidifier to increase moisture levels in the air and encourage drinking.
9. Preference for Other Beverages
Some kittens may prefer milk or other beverages over water, especially if they have been offered alternatives in the past. Avoid offering milk, as many cats are lactose intolerant and can experience digestive upset. Encourage drinking water by providing fresh, clean water as the primary beverage option.
10. Behavioural Issues
Behavioural issues such as fear of water or negative associations with the water bowl can lead to avoidance of drinking. Use positive reinforcement techniques to help your kitten associate the water bowl with positive experiences, such as offering treats near the water bowl or playing with them nearby. Gradually desensitise them to the water bowl by making it a part of their daily routine.
Yes, kittens can get a significant portion of their water intake from wet food. Wet cat food typically contains a high moisture content, often around 75% or more, which helps keep kittens hydrated. This is especially beneficial for kittens who may not drink enough water from a bowl, as they receive moisture directly from their food.
Feeding wet food to kittens can help ensure they stay properly hydrated, which is essential for their overall health and well-being. In addition to providing hydration, wet food is also easier for kittens to eat and digest, making it an excellent choice, especially for very young kittens who are still learning to eat solid food.
While wet food can contribute to a kitten’s water intake, it’s still essential to provide access to fresh, clean water at all times. Overall, a balanced diet of wet food and access to water will help keep kittens properly hydrated and support their growth and development during this critical stage of life.
Make sure you check out other kitten care tips too –
Why is my kitten not eating?
Why My Kitten Won’t Stop Meowing?
Why My Kitten Won’t Stop Biting Me?
Why My Kitten Won’t Stop Sneezing?
Why My Kitten Won’t Stop Licking Me?
Why My Kitten Hasn’t Pooped or Peed
There you have it, folks! Ten possible reasons why your kitten might be avoiding the water bowl, along with practical solutions to address each issue. Remember, staying hydrated is essential for your kitten’s overall health and well-being, so it’s essential to encourage regular water intake. If you’re ever unsure why your kitten isn’t drinking or if you suspect an underlying health issue, don’t hesitate to reach out to your vet for guidance and support. Here’s to happy, hydrated kittens!
]]>Well, here are some reasons why your kittens aren’t eating well. But before that, you should find out what is the ‘normal’ frequency and amount your kitten should be feeding at their age.
I say ‘normal’, but every kitten is different. Use this as a guideline but not a strict rule.
Make sure you check out other kitten care tips too –
Why is my kitten not drinking water?
Why My Kitten Won’t Stop Meowing?
Why My Kitten Won’t Stop Biting Me?
Why My Kitten Won’t Stop Sneezing?
Why My Kitten Won’t Stop Licking Me?
Why My Kitten Hasn’t Pooped or Peed
Kittens have high energy needs and fast metabolisms, so they typically need to eat more frequently than adult cats. Here’s a general guideline for how often to feed a kitten based on their age:

Remember, these are general guidelines, and individual kittens may have different needs based on factors like size, breed, and activity level. It’s essential to monitor your kitten’s growth and appetite closely and consult with a veterinarian for personalised feeding recommendations.
If your kitten is eating way less than the above guideline, here are a few reasons why.



Remember, when your kitten isn’t eating like they used to, it’s important to take notice and take action. Whether it’s a dental issue, a parasite, or just a case of the picky-eater blues, there’s always something you can do to help. And if you’re ever in doubt, go to your local vet.
]]>If you have found a baby seagull nearby and not sure what to do, check out this article about finding a baby seagull.
Baby seagulls are fed by their parents, both mother and father. The parents will regurgitate food for them or place down scraps and the type of food highly depends on what the parents have caught. Gulls eat a large variety of foods, they can catch fish and will also scavenge if necessary. If you find yourself in a situation where you need to provide food, tinned sardines, tuna etc are all acceptable choices.
Seagulls can and will eat wet dog or cat food. Young seagulls may appreciate this mashed up. You can also offer strips of fish such as white bait, trout or herring and even tin fish such as pilchards in tomato sauce. If a parent Is feeding the baby, there is no need to feed the baby as it should have enough food. In the case of an abandoned baby, always seek advice from your local wildlife rehabilitation centre or the RSPCA.
Young gulls may need 2-4 meals a day, with meals being less frequent as they grow. Always ensure that fresh drinking water is available and that any leftover food is removed as mouldy food can cause respiratory diseases in birds.
Aging a gull can differ between species, commonly you will find herring gulls and black headed gulls but this depends on location. In general, these rules apply for herring gulls.
Very fluffy chicks can be anything from new born to a month old, depending on size. In general, herring gulls have grey soft feathers with black spots and rely heavily on parents for food. After two weeks, you will see mottled grey and brown feathers start to develop. Unless one is unfortunate to leave the nest, you would rarely see a chick.
In one to two months, chicks will become fledglings. The process is gradual as more feathers replace the baby fluff, they can look a bit awkward at this stage. When flight feathers are more developed, fledglings may begin to fly, the first flight is usually unsuccessful. Many fledglings will end up on the ground. Often, a parent is at hand, calling with encouragement. They may withhold food to encourage their young to fly. Always look out for parents before removing a young gull as parents will still feed their young but they won’t be able to if their young was removed or if you are too close to their young!
Juvenile herring gulls can take up to four years to mature. First to second year juveniles tend to be mottled brown in colour with black bills and dark spots around eyes. Second years tend to have a slightly pink bill and legs. You will often see them in high places whistling in a high pitch for adults to feed them. They can fly at this stage but if they can get away with it, they would beg adults for food. Juveniles in their third year starts to grown whiter feathers on their stomach and their wings are beginning to look uniform grey. Their tails start to look darker in contrast and their bill are black tipped.
When they have matured, their wings are grey throughout, head and stomach white, tail tips black and their bills are yellow with a red spot on the lower half.
The answer to this question does highly depend on individual scenarios. For instance, if you see a young gull on the ground and its parent on a roof, the gull could be crying and it may appear heartless that the parent is not tending to the baby but it could be that the parent is simply giving the baby gull an incentive to fly. Other reasons could be that the parent does not want to interact with its baby when you are nearby, they may see you as a threat. It is also quite possible that the baby is old enough to seek its own food and the parent feels that they no longer need to look after the baby so much.
There are many possible reasons so you will need to examine your situation with care. If in doubt, contact the RSPCA or a local wildlife centre.
Young seagulls can be curious creatures. They may be slightly wary of people.
When the young seagull is able to fly and search for food by itself, parents will leave them. Some young seagulls are able to manipulate their parents into feeding them for longer by crying at them.
Unless the baby is threatened or has fallen out of its nest, I would suggest do nothing. As sad as it seems, there is a food chain in this world and not all chicks reach adulthood. However, if you do happen to save a chick from being someone’s lunch, do contact a local wildlife rehabber or the RSPCA as they would be able to offer the best care to a chick.
Juvenile seagulls will call to parents for food. This can very well continue long after the juvenile gull has gotten old enough to feed itself. This is normal behaviour of juvenile gulls – they will take advantage for as long as they can. There is no need to take any action.
Seagulls are less tolerant of other gull’s chicks. Therefore, it can be dangerous if you place a chick in the wrong nest. Unless you are absolutely certain, I would place the gull in a short extension room or shed roof. That way they are out of reach of predators. Parents will fly down to feed their chicks.
It could be that the parent does not want to interact with its baby when you are nearby, they may see you as a threat. I would advise leaving the young gull alone for a few hours, and if you are able to, pop out to check on it regularly. The parents should fly down to feed the gull. If you are able to and you know which roof the gull belongs to, you can put it back up or place it on a shed to keep it away from predators. If after a day and no parent has come to feed the gull, or if the gull is in danger then it may be a good idea to contact the local wildlife centre.
Once a seagull has built its nest, you can not do anything to remove the eggs/chicks/nest without a license from the council. If there is a particularly aggressive gull in your garden, you can contact your council. However, the best way would be to prevent them nesting in the first place. Proof your property, keep it clear of rubbish and secure your bins to ensure gulls will not see your property as a good feasting ground. Gulls will attack you if they are concerned that you will be a threat to their chicks. I would advise keeping a safe distance, do not provoke the gulls and bring an umbrella out as a means of preventing them from hurting you. Once the chick is grown, they will leave.
Foxes and weasels will feed on chicks. Some cats may also go for a really young chick.
Dependent on species, gull fledglings will begin to fly around 6-8 weeks old.
Hopefully these can answer your questions about baby seagulls. If you find a stray baby seagull and not sure what to do, make sure you check out this article about finding a baby seagull.
If you have any more questions or suggestions, please leave a comment in the box below!
]]>Whales belong to the same scientific order as porpoises and dolphins (Cetacea) but differ from them in that most do not have teeth. The suborder Mysticeti (baleen whales) includes right whales, pygmy right whales, gray whales, and rorqual whales.
The suborder Odontoceti (toothed whales) includes beluga whales, narwhals, sperm whales, and beaked whales. Remember that so-called “killer whales” and “pilot whales” are actually dolphins. True whales range in size from the 98-foot-long, 200-ton blue whale to the 11-foot-long, 880-pound pygmy sperm whale.
Millions of these highly intelligent marine mammals exist throughout the world’s oceans. They live quite a long time—up to 77 years for humpback whales and over 100 for bowhead whales. Like dolphins and porpoises, whales have to breathe air to survive. They also cannot drink water from the ocean but must metabolize it from their food.
In short, Baleen whales eat plankton, crustaceans (krill, shrimp), or small fish. As the name implies, these whales have baleen instead of teeth. Made of keratin (also found in human hair and fingernails), baleen is strong, flexible, and grows continually. Long plates of this material hang in a comb-like row from the whales’ upper jaws. Broad at the gumline, baleen tapers into a curtain of bristles that acts as a sieve.
When the whales locate food, they open their mouths wide, taking and eating in huge volumes of seawater along with the prey.
They then press their tongue down to force the water out. Any plankton, crustaceans (krill, shrimp), or small fish (herring, mackerel, capelin, and sandeel) get trapped and become lunch. The number and size of baleen plates varies by species.
The feeding behavior described above is characteristic of “gulpers,” or filter feeders that take large gulps of concentrated food, expel the seawater, and push the food back into their gullet with their tongue. Humpback whales, blue whales, fin whales, and Bryde’s whales all exhibit this behavior. In another method, “skimmers” swim through the water with open mouth, straining the water for food. Right whales engage in skimming most of the time, but bowheads and sei whales combine it with other forms of feeding.
Humpback whales also feed cooperatively, employing a strategy called “bubble net feeding.” Upon locating a shoal of prey, they will dive above 50 meters below it and swim in a spiral towards the surface, blowing bubbles as they go. The bubbles congregate prey and force them towards the surface near the center of the whale circle. Then the whales will surface in the center of bubbles, their mouths wide open to collect water and prey.
During cooperative feeding, whales call to each other with various sounds, and divide tasks. This is similar to the way dolphins work together to get food.
Some whales, such as humpbacks, will also lunge through a shoal of prey with their mouth agape or stun prey by hitting the water with their pectoral fins or flukes (again, similar to dolphins).
Opportunistic feeders, toothed whales eat many species of fish and invertebrates. Though they have teeth, they use them only for grasping and tearing before they swallow their food whole.
Beluga whales have eight to ten peg-shaped teeth, and will feed in both open water (pelagic) and on the bottom (benthic). They prefer capulin, char, sand lance, and cod, but will also eat worms, squid, and octopus. When foraging on the ocean floor, beluga whales use their flexible necks to search for food. They can also use their mouths as a sort of suction device to dislodge prey from the bottom.
Narwhals, with their unmistakable spiraled tusk, have a more specialized diet than other whales, making deep dives to feed on Greenland halibut or Gonatus squid. Only males have the tusk, and all narwhals possess a mere two teeth.
Sperm whales have functional teeth only on the lower jaw. They may dive over a mile to find squid in the dark depths of the ocean. Due to the absence of light in the whales’ feeding grounds, scientists can only speculate how these creatures obtain food. They may lie motionless near the ocean floor in order to ambush prey, or they may stun prey with ultrasonic sounds. To attract squid, they might emit a bioluminescent glow from their mouth. They also produce sequential clicks, called “codas,” which may serve as echolocation.
Male beaked whales have one to two large functional teeth on the lower jaw (probably for use in social encounters), while the teeth of females do not protrude from the gums at all. In contrast to the rest of this family, Shepherd’s beaked whale has 17-29 conical teeth on both jaws (males of course have two extra). Also, though most beaked whales feed almost exclusively on squid and octopus, Shepherd’s will eat fish, such as eelpouts.
The seasonal movements of whales are influenced by climate changes; water temperature, depth, and salinity; topography of the sea floor; and abundance of food. Their migrations are also synchronized with breeding/mating seasons.
Generally speaking, whales feed in cold, higher latitudes in the summer and breed in warm, lower latitudes in the winter. During the three to four months it takes them to travel thousands of miles between habitats, whales must live off stored reserves. Accordingly, they eat as much as they can hold while at the winter feeding grounds. Humpback whales, for instance, may consume up to 3000 lbs. of food per day, although smaller beluga whales eat only 55 lbs. per day.
As we mentioned, almost all spiders are carnivorous, meaning they eat insects, other spiders, and sometimes even vertebrates. In order to catch prey, which usually can crawl quickly, jump great distances, fly, and/or defend itself with toxic substances, spiders must have certain anatomical advantages.
Most spiders have eight simple eyes, though a few families have six. The quality of vision varies by family, with jumping spiders having the most acute vision. They also have four pairs of walking legs, one pair of chelicerae (containing the fangs and venom glands), and one pair of pedipalps (which are used as an extra set of legs to aid in walking, manipulating materials, or mating).
Within the exoskeleton, spiders have muscles in their limbs, which operate via hydraulic pressure. The ends of their legs have two to three claws that help them grip surfaces. Spiders’ bodies are covered with sensitive hairs that provide important information about their surroundings.
When a spider first attacks its prey, whether in the web or on some other surface, it must deploy its fangs and inject venom into the prey’s body in order to subdue it. Depending on species, this venom will contain a combination of neurotoxins and cytotoxins, containing proteolytic enzymes, amines and amino acids. Since spiders cannot digest solids, they must convert their prey to liquid and filter out any inedible material. Called external digestion, this process can take different forms.
First, a spider uses the serrated coxa (maxillae) of its pedipalps to bite a hole in the exoskeleton of its prey. The hairy maxillae also serve as a filtering mechanism to prevent solid particles from entering the spider’s mouth. Some species, such as crab spiders, widow spiders, and jumping spiders, bite only a small hole in the cuticle of their prey and regurgitate digestive enzymes into it.
They then suck out the liquefied tissues until the prey is but a hollow shell. Other species, such as tarantulas and many orb-weavers, use cheliceral “teeth” above the fangs to grind the prey to pulp, while filling it with regurgitated enzymes. The fangs fold in on top of the teeth, and the chelicerae and the bases of the pedipalps form a pre-oral cavity to grip the food. In this case a small dark blob of cuticle (called a “bolus”) will remain when the spider finishes eating.
Behind the spider’s mouth, the pharynx further filters the incoming fluid. After liquid passes through the esophagus into the sucking stomach—a powerful pump—it enters the midgut. The midgut then branches out into well-developed caeca that store the digested food. The caeca can extend throughout the spider’s body, down to the coxa of the legs, up between the eyes, and around other organs such as the ovaries and silk glands, supplying them with needed nutrients. When a spider eats a good meal, its body will be filled with caecal fluids, allowing it to survive without food for many days. Unlike other arthropods, a spider’s abdomen can expand and shrink based on the amount of food it takes in.
Web-building spiders (e.g. cobweb spiders and orb-weavers) rely on their sticky webs to catch prey. Depending on family, they will build a horizontal or vertical web with a specific pattern, or they will draw crisscrossing lines of silk. The spiders will lie in wait for prey in the center of the web or in a shelter, such as a leaf or clump of debris, off to the side. While the structure of the web allows spiders to crawl around without getting stuck, and traps a myriad of unsuspecting insects, such as mosquitos, flies, moths, and stinkbugs, it can be easily damaged or destroyed by birds or other large animals. Since they do not have to travel to find prey, web-building spiders have delicate legs and poor vision.
Ambush spiders spin silk, but not in a traditional web. For instance, funnel weavers usually build a horizontal web with a tube extending from it into some sheltered area. The spider will wait inside the tunnel, quickly subdue any prey that gets caught in the web, and then retreat with its meal back into its hideaway. As its name implies, the trapdoor spider constructs a hinged “trap door,” which it keeps closed until a prey insect “trips the line,” whereupon the spider emerges and attacks. Ambush spiders are more robust than traditional web-builders, and their bodies are fairly squat.
Roaming spiders (e.g. wolf spiders, fishing spiders, and jumping spiders) chase down their prey and consequently have muscular legs and good vision. They hunt both at night and during the day. If they find a good hideaway, jumping spiders will also employ ambush tactics, striking from a silken cocoon. In addition, jumping spiders often use a trial-and-error approach when they locate prey, experimenting with different strategies until they have success.
Basically, ant-mimicking spiders pretend to be ants. They “transform” themselves into ants by changing their appearance and behavior. While some spiders do this for self-preservation (ants are not high on the menu of predators), true ant-mimicking species do it to lure ants into a trap. For example, members of the genus Amyciaea act like dying ants to attract workers, which they then kill.
Some juvenile sac spiders and jumping spiders eat plant nectar to obtain nutrients. This is less stressful for these still developing spiders as they do not have to expend energy or risk their life as they would when engaging in carnivorous behavior. Research shows that spiders that consume nectar also have longer lifespans.
Spiders have been observed scavenging for dead insects. Females of two orb-weaver species will eat old webs, while the males will sometimes eat the web to stake their claim on a female. Like nectar, pollen can prolong a spider’s life. In captivity, spiders may consume milk, egg yolk, marmalade, bananas, or sausages.
Tarantulas, huntsman spiders, and black widows may eat an animal as large as a bird, lizard, frog, snake, or bat. Members of the species Theridion nigroannulatum form webby colonies, hunting cooperatively. There is no conclusive evidence that such communities have a division of labor (like a beehive), but the fact that these spiders share tasks is intriguing.
Lastly, the jumping spider Bagheera kiplingi represents the only species known to be herbivorous, with the Beltian bodies of acacia trees making up about 90% of their diet. Scientists believe that these spiders may have a different physiology that enables them to digest this fibrous, nitrogen-poor material. The spiders supplement their diet with the larvae of the ants inhabiting the acacias. The ants protect the Beltian bodies from other hungry animals, indirectly serving the spiders’ interests.
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