Georgina Hindle of Decanter Magazine’s look at the Terrasses du Larzac
La Pèira 2017 and Montcalmès 2017 are the top-rated wines in Decanter’s comprehensive review of over 60 Terrasses du Larzac wines.
In the highly-regarded wine publication Decanter Magazine, Georgina Hindle offers a comprehensive exploration of the Terrasses du Larzac appellation and reviews a representative sample of over 60 wines from this notable area in the South of the French viticultural landscape.
Georgina Hindle is the Bordeaux Correspondent and Premium Editor for Decanter and resides in Bordeaux, southwest France.
Taking over from fellow Bordeaux resident Jane Anson, whose new website, Inside Bordeaux, also focuses on the region, Hindle covers the region and its wines from Pauillac to En Primeur to Pomerol and everything in between. For an in-depth interview, see here by wine merchants Fine + Rare.
Her article, Regional profile: Terrasses du Larzac plus 67 wines tasted, dated October 23, 2020, examines over sixty wines from recent vintages.
The article underscores the region’s burgeoning reputation for full-bodied, age-worthy reds that are both fresh and full of character.
The Terrasses du Larzac is nestled in the southern French department of Hérault, graced by the cooling shadows of the foothills of Larzac and the Massif Central mountain range. Vines at these altitudes, generally ranging from 50 to 400 meters, benefit from significant diurnal temperature shifts, aiding in the slow, steady maturation of grapes.
This, along with the appellation’s varied soil composition of limestone, clay, river pebbles, and schist in different parts, contributes to wines that are robust and fruit-forward with a spirited acidity and vibrant youthfulness.
La Pèira 2017 and Montcalmès 2017 Top Rated
The Decanter report highlights the exceptional quality of the La Pèira 2017 and Montcalmès 2017 vintages, which achieved the top scores in the Terrasses du Larzac reviews.
60 Terrasses du Larzac wines
The tasting encompassed an impressive selection of wines, including the likes of Les Vignes Oubliées, Clos Constantin, Mas Cal Demoura and Mas du Pountil, each showcasing the diversity and high-quality for which the Terrasses du Larzac is spoken of. Whether it’s the richness and depth of Gérard Bertrand, Château La Sauvageonne or the wines of the relatively recent Domaine La Tête dans les Etoiles, a tiny estate, there is an array of profiles to explore.
Hindle’s report covers a variety of outstanding wines from Terrasses du Larzac, featuring different cépages grown on diverse soils, in various areas, and available at a range of price points.
Given the appellation’s adherence to red wine production with a blend of at least three out of five sanctioned grape varieties: Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah, Cinsault, and Carignan — wines from different producers can have quite different emphases.
From the structural heft of a Carignan-dominated wine to the finesse of a blend featuring Cinsault, each grape variety and choice of blend adds a unique dimension to each of the producers’ Terrasses du Larzac wines.
The depth and breadth of this review make it a useful guide for those looking to explore the wines this appellation has to offer.
La Pèira 2017 Review
More reviews for the La Pèira 2017 vintage are here.
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]]>The post La Peira one of a handful of ★★★★ Domaines in France in Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine Book 2022 appeared first on La Peira Blog.
]]>La Pèira one of a handful of ★★★★ Domaines in Southern France, and a select few from France itself (in Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine Book 2022). Excerpts and PDF attached below.
★★★★ is the highest-ranking awarded by the guide
There are only three or so domains in our entire region with this rating, only a handful in all Southern France and just a select few in all of France.
Edited by Margaret Rand, Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine Book is world’s best-selling annual wine guide now in its 45th year of publication.
PDF Here: Hugh-Johnstons-Pocket-Book-of-Wine-2022-Online.pdf
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]]>The post La Peira 2018 Vintage | La Peira appeared first on La Peira Blog.
]]>La Pèira 2018 vintage
It’s been 15 years since our first harvest at La Pèira. So, this year, as well as introducing the 2018 vintage, we thought to take stock. The goal from the beginning was to be equal in vineyard practices as any of France’s finest, but to allow the wine to be very different – even unafraid – in terms of what it expressed. In short: to be uncompromisingly focused on quality, but to allow nature to determine the characteristics of the wine to express a sense of place.
Along the way there have been kind comments about the quality of La Pèira:
“Easily one of the top estates in all of France”, wrote Jeb Dunnock in the Wine Advocate “Make no mistake about it, this is a very special wine made on a very special estate” : Jancis Robinson
“A range of wines of striking depth and originality yet great truth to place, too” : Andrew Jefford – Financial Times
La Pèira has been mentioned as “Southern France’s First Growth”.
The chart below looking at vintages 2005-2015 (our first decade) bears that out. But we are still beginning when it comes to discovering the qualities of our place. Thank you for your continued support and interest in going along with us on that journey.
Preamble and contents – La Pèira 2018 vintage
We were delighted to participate in Meininger’s FINEST 100 at the end of 2019. 100 of the world’s best wine producers and 100 of the most prestigious sommeliers from Germany are chosen to join this international summit alongside alongside 100 of the best wine merchants from Austria, Switzerland and Germany. La Pèira presented alongside producers such as Krug, Pichon-Longueville-Comtesse de Lalande, Gaja, López De Heredia, Conterno Giacomo, Biondi Santi, Ridge Vineyards. We were kindly hosted by Albert Kierdorf, famed for working with many of the world’s finest estates – not the least of which, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. More about the vintage including our extraordinary 2018 bottling of Las Flors, where to mark this new era for the blend we have we have decided to christen the vintage 2ÈME. Finally the whites at La Pèira and the reporting of Jancis Robinson are mention within.
Full La Pèira 2018 Presentation PDF
The news at La Pèira is that the 2018 (alongside the 2019) is excellent. Yet not without challenges. As Decanter Magazine in its November 19, 2018 article, Languedoc-Roussillon’s eventful year, reported:
“Mildew losses at La Pèira were 30%… while 35% were lost to mildew at Mas de Daumas Gassac”.
Some areas even suffered devastating floods in October and November. Yet as the article goes on: “The consolation was that quality, after a warm summer, was excellent: ‘the best we’ve ever made,’ according to Nicolas Raffy [Mas Amiel]”.
One exciting piece of news is that, with the 2018 blend, the Las Flors cuvee has reached new heights. With the maturity of vineyards planted years ago, we found in 2018 we really could take a leap in terms of Las Flors, delivering that wonderfully approachable and supple experience of a second wine while at the same time progressing ahead in terms of quality.
And so, this standout 2018 vintage has a name: 2ÈME. In our last vintage report, we noted how our partner in Belgium, the famed Young Charly, discovered that La Pèira had outperformed almost all of Bordeaux’s five First Growths over the decade 2005-2015 (See pages 4-7 in this report).
Likewise, our commitment and work with the Las Flors de la Pèira vineyard can be seen in the fact it has outperformed France’s greatest second wines in the years 2005-2017 as per Wine Advocate reviews over the period 2005-2017 (see pages 15-21).
Despite this, we still felt we could do better. And the 2018 and 2019 Las Flors may be in style and quality the greatest blends of the cuvee.
We’ve also exciting news of the Obriers. And Jancis Robinson reports on the white Deusyls de la Pèira 2008 (after 12 years in bottle) and others:
“Lovely to taste an old white wine that has not lost its fruit. This promises rather well for Terrasses du Larzac whites…”
Thank you for your support which has made this ongoing improvement possible.
The Two Faces Of The 2018 Vintage
Janus, the Roman two-faced deity (one looking to the past, one to the future) was said to be the god of beginnings, of doorways, duality, passages, frames, and endings. For much of the first-half of 2018 it felt like a door was closing on us. Despite treatment after treatment, mildew returned, time after time, taking with it a much of the crop at La Pèira. By contrast, July onwards until the end of harvest were worry free, with perfect weather conditions and ripening. The Wine Scholar Guild vintage chart for the region (compiled by Andrew Jefford) gives the vintage a four out of five glass rating (‘Excellent’).
2018 Losses and Gains First the losses: one third of the crop was lost in 2018 at La Pèira. One in every three bottles were lost to due to the worst outbreak of mildew in 25 years. The cause? A wet spring followed by heavy rain in May and June with high humidity. After these early losses, July and August saw the warm weather return. The sun led the vines from September to October, with not a drop of rain from the beginning of the harvest right until its end. And so, fortuitously, our luck having changed, we gained the opportunity to harvest each grape variety at the best moment. This is the second year of low production. You may remember from last year’s vintage report Decanter magazine wrote wine production to be at “historic lows” in 2017.
2018 in brief:
• A rainy wet spring great for the vines during budding and at the beginning of growing season
• Heavy rain during May and June. This led to high humidity and mildew on a level that has not been seen in the last quarter of a century • Around 30% of crop was lost at La Pèira due to mildew in 2018
• July and August saw warm summer weather return. September remained sunny with cooling nights
• Then not a drop of rain from the beginning of the harvest until its end in early October. This allowed harvesting the grapes at the best moment without the pressure from changeable weather conditions. •After this restraint, when harvest finished a terrible storm broke in the neighbouring Aude area caused destruction and damage. • By this point the grapes has been all brought in.
And the result?
• An exuberant vintage with wines of concentration, structure, and generosity. • Production down by a third • La Pèira 2018 has exuberant creamy red fruits on the nose, then notes of cedar, spice, sous bois, earth, leading to wine of concentration, structure, and balance full-bodied southern French generosity. • 2018 La Flors is we think one the greatest Las Flors blends yet. Surprisingly dark colour. The same creamy red fruits of its older sibling (La Pèira) on the nose. On the mouth crisp feeling of red and black fruits you can almost bite into.
The Whites
•An extraordinary year for the whites. More about the expressive, exotic, and very different whites along with Janis Robinson’s notes follow in the pages ahead.
•A level of expression of Terrasses du Larzac whites that articulates something unique not found elsewhere in other French AOP.
Full La Pèira 2018 Presentation PDF
JANCIS ROBINSON RECENT REVIEWS
“…this [La Pèira 2018] shows the potential to rival or even exceed the 2016 in terms of subtlety and sophistication”
La Pèira 2018 Healthy purplish crimson. Savoury, vigorous nose. Good lift with a floral top note. Still embryonic but this shows the potential to rival or even exceed the 2016 in terms of subtlety and sophistication. Real energy here as well as gloriously ripe, cossetted fruit. I’d love to taste this again once bottle. Admirably persistent already.
La Pèira 2017 Mid shaded crimson. Fresher nose than the 2016 at present, though the texture is just as opulent and the palate, if anything, more obviously sweet. With just a hint of heat on the finish. I wonder whether this has a little more Mourvèdre in the blend? There’s a slightly gamey note – but it’s a marvellous throat-soother. Very long and ripe. Just not quite as fresh on the palate.
La Pèira 2016 Heady, intense, already complex nose that’s enormously ripe and concentrated yet beautifully refined with the smoothest tannins. Really very classy indeed. A seamless blend, with notes of both chocolate and vegetation to keep it fresh. Exceptionally long and pure without any excess heat on the end…This is great winemaking and, presumably, terroir and vine growing.
Jeb Dunnuck’s review of the La Pèira 2016 called it: “Up with the finest vintages of this cuvée and a candidate for perfection” {97-99/10. He went on, “…despite being a rich, powerful wine, has remarkable elegance and purity. I’ve called this estate one of the best in France, and I stand by that statement today. “
2018 looks set to be one of the great La Pèira vintages.
Full La Pèira 2018 Presentation PDF
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]]>The post La Pèira 2018 Vintage – Las Flors de La Pèira 2018 2ÈME appeared first on La Peira Blog.
]]>We’ve made our second wine, Las Flors de la La Pèira since 2005. For 15 vintages. As with La Pèira and all the wines a huge amount of care and attention is spent on it. As you can see it compares favourably with France’s greatest second wines:
Las Flors 2ème – La Pèira’s Second Wine
2018 Las Flors 2ème – What Makes A Great Second Wine?
Over 12-years or so it comes in on average in first place against some of the greatest (source: Wine Advocate 2005-2017). Carruades de Lafite, Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild, Pavillon Rouge de Château Margaux, Le Clarence de Haut-Brion, Les Forts de Latour range from €200 to €250 a bottle. Las Flors de la La Pèira a smaller fraction of that. Yet we thought we could do even better. And, in 2018 & 2019, we think we’ve blended the greatest Las Flors yet. We always wanted to make a perfect second wine in terms of style. What makes a classic second wine? For us, it’s a wine made with all the care and attention as an estate’s Grand Vin but is astonishingly supple, approachable, balanced, and elegant at an early age.
A great second wine is bit like a time machine where you can see tonight what the grand vin might be like in decade or two.
To mark this new era of Las Flors, the 2018 vintage is simply titled: 2ÈME.
Full La Pèira 2018 Presentation PDF
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]]>We were delight to have Andrew Jefford and students Wine Scholar Guild for a very special visit to La Peira.
Andrew Jefford & Wine Scholar Guild visits La Pèira (Terrasses du Larzac)
English Text : My name’s Andrew Jefford, and we’ve come to La Peira today with a group from the Wine Scholar Guild. And we’ve got students from the USA, from Hong Kong, from China, from the Philippines, from Australia, from Denmark, so a nice international group. We’ve come here today to discover the wines of La Peira.
This is a very special place in Terrasses du Larzac, and Terrasses du Larzac, in my opinion, is already a very special part of France, a very special appellation in the Languedoc. Fantastic diversity of terroir here.
Beautifully draining bench lands
I could talk for a long while about that, but the point is La Peira is in really, for me, one of the best bits of Terrasses du Larzac, the beautifully draining bench lands, right in the middle of the appellation, and you can make wines of wonderful density, wonderful layers to them, a wonderful aromatic concentration and aromatic finesse as well. And we’ve seen all of that on display today in the wines we’ve tasted. It’s always a treat to come here and taste right through the range.
Right from Les Obriers, a wonderful kind of opening to the whole range. Lovely, voluptuous fruit there to enjoy. Las Flors, suddenly you go to a greater level of concentration, a greater level of complexity and depth, and intrigue.
La Pèira
Then you go to La Peira, the red La Peira, which is always a great treat, a wonderfully luxurious wine. I once described it as a sort of liqueur of the garrigue. And that’s always what I hope to find in La Peira, and I usually do.
And then Matissat, today we’ve had a treat to taste the 2007, a much older vintage. Personally, I would never have guessed if I’d been given it blind that it was as old as 2007, because it still has wonderful density, and power, and concentration. That’s a pure Mourvedre wine. Always something really to look out for, there aren’t many wines like that in the Languedoc.
There are a few other references elsewhere in the south of France, but not really in the Languedoc, so always a great treat to try that.
La Pèira Whites
And finally, there are now two wonderful whites to try.
There’s Deusyls, which is, as it were, the second tier of the white. I mean, I say it’s the second tier of the white because it sells at a lower price, but for me the two white wines are almost at a par. They’re both wonderfully intricate. The difference between them is the difference of varieties. So, for me Deusyls, perhaps, is the most typical Languedoc wine, in that we have more of the southern varieties in there, lovely glycerate wine, perfumed wine again, but more sort of anise level of perfumes, whereas compare that with La Peira Blanc, that’s made from Viognier and Roussanne. Again, a very perfumed wine, but the perfumes there are more exotic, if I can use that word. Honeyed, rich, but two wonderful white wines to look at and, again, a super treat to try those. So on a very difficult day where it has rained and we’ve had all sorts of problems getting here, we’ve finally got here, we’ve had a magnificent tasting, so we’re all going home very happy.
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]]>The post La Pèira Blanc & Deusyls 2019 Vintage – (La Pèira Early 2019 Vintage Releases ) Terrasses du Larzac appeared first on La Peira Blog.
]]>La Pèira blanc 2019 and Deusyls de la Pèira 2019 (La Pèira’s second white) are released a year or so earlier than their red 2019 counterparts due to a shorter elevage period.
What distinguishes the La Pèira whites from many southern white wines is their capacity to age.
Jancis Robinson reviewed the Deusyls de la Pèira 2008 (bottled before we made the first wine) in 2020 with the words:
“Lovely to taste an old white wine that has not lost its fruit. This promises rather well for Terrasses du Larzac whites…”
Her recent reviews of the La Pèira whites, a collection of reviews to-date-, and, hopefully, some feeling of what characterises whites wines from the Terrasses du Larzac – and those of La Pèira – are below.
Towards a Terrasses du Larzac White AOP
“Headily floral perfume”, “Satin texture and excellent cut of acidity”, “Distinctly Condrieu-ish”, “Very well done!”, “Dense and racy and honeyed”, “like a lovely Northern Rhône white”, “A very interesting, but already fully formed, wine”, “Really exciting and good”, “Honeysuckle”, “Ripe apricots with a savoury undertow”, “A kick of citrus, even lime-peel, acidity”. All comments from Jancis Robinson from her reviews of La Pèira’s whites from 2005 to 2018. Most recently, Jancis reviewed the 2008 Deusyls de la Pèira in 2020 after 12 years in bottle: Her note: “Deep copper colour. Strong honey and spicy biscuits on the nose but still lively. Very rich
with an edge of veg to keep it fresh. Lovely to taste an old white wine that has not lost its fruit. This promises rather well for Terrasses du Larzac whites…”
TERRASSES DU LARZAC WHITES
A Terrasses du Larzac white AOP (Appellation d’Origine Protégée) is what we are working towards. In fact, La Pèira’s Bois de Pauliau plot has been part of the white wine Clairette AOP for over half a century since 1948. We grow Clairette, but include other grape varieties such as Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier, Grenache blanc in the La Pèira whites: Both the Deusyls and La Pèira Blanc in 2019 are stunning. The vintage is not yet reviewed but past reviews are below. Here are the most recent Wine Advocate reviews:
WINE ADVOCATE REVIEWS
2018 La Pèira Blanc Rating 91 – 93
“It’s full-bodied and creamy in texture, a rich white that retains a bit of citrus zest”
2016 La Pèira Blanc Rating 93 – 95
“first-rate purity and freshness, it’s probably the white wine of the vintage.”
2015 La Peira Blanc Rating 91 – 93
“It’s certainly an outstanding wine”
2014 La Pèira Blanc 94
“this beauty is up with the top whites of the appellation.”
2018 Deusyls de la Pèira (90 – 92)
“Full-bodied and lush.”
2016 Deusyls de la Pèira 90 – 92
“Like everything here, it’s impeccably made.”
2015 Deusyls de la Pèira (89 – 91)
“Medium-bodied, elegant and balanced”
2014 Deusyls de la Pèira 92
“Fresh and lively, with superb purity of fruit”
2013 Deusyls de la Pèira 92
“Layered, downright classy, medium to full-bodied”
2012 Deusyls de la Pèira 94
“It’s a smoking white”
2011 Deusyls de la Pèira 94
“Vibrant, energetic and with a great finish”
2010 Deusyls de la Pèira 92
“Elegant, seamless”
2009 Deusyls de la Pèira (90 – 91)
“Outstanding effort”
2008 Deusyls de la Pèira 91
“Intriguing, elusive mineral traces”
2006 Deusyls de la Pèira 92
“Demonstrates the striking potential of this site and talented team extends to white wine”
JANCIS ROBINSON
LA PEIRA BLANC RECENT REVIEWS
“…Any oak is exceptionally discreet in these three whites (2016, 2017 and this 2018). Very well done!”
Jancis Robinson’s La Pèira white wine reviews got off to a great start with her first review of the Deusyls 2005 and the words:
“Dense and racy and honeyed and like a lovely Northern Rhône white. Really exciting and good.”
Here are her recent La Pèira Blanc reviews.
La Pèira Blanc 2018 17 Relatively youthful, muted nose but with everything in the right place. Very powerful Viognier character here – ripe apricots with a savoury undertow. Distinctly Condrieu-ish. Some spice is bubbling up too, but not in an oak idiom. Any oak is exceptionally discreet in these three whites (2016, 2017 and this 2018). Very well done!
La Pèira Blanc 2017 16.5 Deeper, yellower gold than the 2016. Exotic, fully ripe, blossomy hedgerow aromas. Much fatter and more evolved than the 2016. This is no aperitif! But could sit happily with a rich shellfish dish, not least because it does finish with a kick of citrus, even lime-peel, acidity. A very interesting, but already fully formed, wine.
La Pèira Blanc 2016 17 Crystal-clear greenish yellow. Headily floral perfume seems informed by the Viognier. Little notes of hazelnuts too. Satin texture and excellent cut of acidity. Very youthful for a three-year-old wine. Carries its alcohol well. Just a tiny bit of texture on the end. Sophisticated wine.
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]]>The post Release of the Obriers: Éditions Monocépage Series: 2019 Vintage 100% Cinsault appeared first on La Peira Blog.
]]>The Obriers cuvee was first bottled in 2005 as a tribute to Southern France’s most unloved (at the time) and reviled grape varieties: Cinsault and Carignan. These days both varieties are positively fashionable. As 2019 was a year of such low yields at La Pèira we found we were not in a position to bottle the Obriers, we had so little of it. Never fear, however, for we will be bottling some of the standard Obriers cuvee in March 2020. In the meantime, we have something exciting that goes back to the original idea behind the Obriers cuvee. The initial release of what may become a series (Obriers: Éditions Monocépage) looking at local, typical or overlooked varieties in southern France. This first release is an extraordinary plot of 100% Cinsault.
Éditions Monocépage : An Extraordinary Plot of Cinsault
These days Cinsault is the Pinot Noir of the South according to some. Yet only a decade or two ago it was (along with Carignan and others) one of the most despised and rejected of grape varieties. It hid its face and was esteemed not. Grants were given to growers who would pull it up, get rid of it, and plant something more commercial.
It was derided as a workhorse grape, a beast of burden, a filler for unremarkable blends and roses. Plantings fell from the 1980s on to a mere fraction of what they were.
The Oxford Companion to Wine on Cinsault reads:
“the wines it produces tend to be lighter, softer, and, in extreme youth, more aromatic and charmingly cher- ry-fruited than most of its peers.
Jancis Robinson writes, “with its lighter skins and soft perfume it is particularly suitable for rosés and fruity, early- drinking reds, although low yields are needed to eke out much flavour.”
In 2005, we thought we could do something wonderful with these grape varieties of Cinsault
and Carignan. The now-retired Robert Parker describe the first vintage he tasted (the 2006) as: “Falling somewhere between a great Cote Rotie and a top-notch Hermitage”. In 2020, in same way, we wished to see what individual indigenous or long-standing traditional southern varieties can do when bottled alone.
So, this is not the usual normal blend of Obriers cuvee. That will be released in March 2020.
Rather it is a special bottling of an exceptional plot of this Cinsault that has played a part in the Obriers blend for many years and now has a chance to shine alone.15-vintages have seen a good degree of care and attention in the Obriers vineyards, and well as a gaining of understanding as to what each individual plot can deliver.
It’s a wonderful bottle of pure Cinsault. One we hope at La Pèira will play its small part among others in ensuring a more effusive entry in future editions of the Oxford Companion.
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]]>The post La Pèira alongside the Terrasses du Larzac in Hugh Johnson's Pocket Wine Book 2020 | La Peira appeared first on La Peira Blog.
]]>The world’s best-selling annual wine guide, Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine Book (now in its 43rd year of publication) is an annual update guide.
Said to be the essential reference book for everyone who buys wine – in shops, restaurants, or on the internet.
It also take abbreviation to extremes (a necessity as it has to fit the world of wine into a pocket book). A brief entry is included for each producer, appellation, grape variety, person.
The customarily brief entries for La Pèira and the Terrasses du Larzac follow:
La Pèira
La Pèira L’doc r w English-owned, AL winemaker, rich intense reds. La Peira ( SYRAH / GRENACHE ), las Flors de la Peira (Syrah/Grenache/ MOURVÈDRE ), Obriers de la Peira ( CARIGNAN / CINSAULT ).
Terrasses du Larzac
Terrasses du Larzac L’doc r ★ ★ → ★ ★ ★ Most n part of AC L’DOC . Wild and hilly region from Lac du Salagou to Aniane, incl MONTPEYROUX , St-Saturnin; wide day/night temperature variation, coolth makes fresher wines. AC since 2014; 25 new growers in recent yrs, plus est names: CAL DEMOURA , CLOS des Serres, Mas de l’Ecriture, Mas Jullien , MONTCALMÈS , Pas de l’Escalette. LA PÈIRA . Over half organic/bio. Definitely to watch . White, rosé AC L’doc or IGP.
Abbreviations
AC = AOC | L’doc = Languedoc | AL = ? | r = red | w = white | n = north | capitals = a separate individual entry
La Pèira also makes an appearance in the Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson publication, The Oxford World Atlas of Wine: more here. And the excellent Wine Behind the Label Guide is similarly comprehensive while going into great detail: more here.
The Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine Book is widely available in bookshops as well as online.
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]]>“The 2017 La Pèira is brilliant. This estate continues to fashion some of
The most impressive wines in the Languedoc.” Jeb Dunnuck
THE 2017 VINTAGE NOTES
“There has been more ballyhoo about this domaine than any other since Daumas Gassac”, writes Paul Strang of La Pèira in his recent book Languedoc Roussillon The Wines and the Wine Makers. Indeed, in the new 11th Edition of Wines behind The Label, La Pèira remains the only producer for its region to be awarded the rare super 5-star rating designation ✪✪✪✪✪. This super 5-star rating is restricted to the true classics, out-and-out world class. Not only La Pèira is the sole estate in the Languedoc to receive this rating, it is one of a mere three domaines in the entire south of France. For some context, stalwarts such as Grange des Pères and Mas de Daumas Gassac received five-stars (outstanding) and four-stars (high quality) respectivly, while standout domaines outside the Terrasses du Larzac include Chateau de la Negly, five-stars (★★★★★ outstanding) and Puech-Haut four-stars (★★★★☆ high quality).
2017 THE VINTAGE
The instinct at La Pèira since the beginning has been to drive a middle line between the excessively traditional and the ultramodern, between finesses and elegance on the one hand, and power and richness on the other. To search for a typicité that is not obscured by an approach that is overtly backward, nor denied by perhaps the even greater limitation of being overly modern. As Jancis Robinson say of La Pèira: “There is clearly real sensibility for the local terrain and varietal traditions”. Andrew Jefford states that La Pèira bottles “wines of striking depth and originality yet great truth to place, too”. Joe Czerwinski writes in his review of the La Pèira 2017 vintage: “As all of the grapes are handpicked, the team does an initial triage in the vineyards, followed by another sorting at the winery. That care shows in the finished wines, which manage to combine ample weight and concentration with a rare degree of elegance and length.”
As if to underline the quality point, since our last vintage report, our outstanding importer in Belgium (Young Charly) – importer of the wines of Gaja, Ornellaia, Chapoutier and owners of Saint Emilion Grand Cru, Château Fougueyrat – discovered in the process of organising a vertical tasting that La Pèira had outperformed almost all of Bordeaux’s five First Growths over the last decade. Looking at the reviews of the Wine Advocate over a ten-year period, La Pèira averaged just hehind Château Haut-Brion, yet ahead of each of the other four Premier Grand Cru Classé rated First Growths.
This is a testament to the work of all the La Pèira team and in particular winemakers Jérémie Depierre (vintages 2004-2014) and Audrey Bonnet (2015 -2019). A great testament, too, to the outstanding vineyard terroirs of La Pèira’s lieux-dits: the Bois de Pauliau and Bellefeuille (Belle Fiolle). The reviews of the 2016 vintage (‘…a candidate for perfection’ – Jeb Dunnuck) and of the 2017 vintage (‘…the 2017 La Pèira is brilliant’ ) as detailed in this report continue to be excellent.
All this serves to emphasise one central point: that in a current wine universe where true excellence is priced stratospherically and often out of reach, La Pèira, we hope, delivers the world-class while remaining firmly within grasp.
I hope you find wines here that might find a place in your collection. And thank you for your support which has made this exploration possible. – Rob Dougan et l’équipe de La Pèira
2017 HIGH QUALITY – LITTLE QUANTITY
As across France in general, 2017 was characterised by a harvest of reduced quantity and high quality. As Jancis Robinson reports, in the Midi, the “condition of the fruit at harvest was generally very good, so the most quality-conscious estates have the potential to produce excellent wines”. The Wine Scholar Guild vintage chart for the region (compiled by Andrew Jefford) gives the vintage a four out of five glass rating (‘Excellent’). In the Wine Advocate the vintage is designated as ‘Outstanding’ and with maturity characterised by the symbol ‘T’ (indicating still tannic, youthful, or slow to mature).
It was somewhat of a surprise that the spring frosts that severely affected the vineyards of Champagne, Bordeaux Burgundy, the Loire valley, Alsace, Jura…touched the Hérault and our wider region in 2017. This is not an area known for April frost. Fortunately the La Pèira vineyards were spared the effects. But a cooler April here, as in Bordeaux and Burgundy, affected budburst and the flowering. And a dry summer and low rainfall (again as with the 2017 vintage in Bordeaux and Burgundy) saw small berries resulting in reduced yields.
Where the Hérault faired quite differently to other regions was the fair weather over the harvest period. This produced fine-quality wines but in small quantities. How small?
Decanter magazine reported wine production to be at “historic lows” for 2017. France’s agricultural statistics bureau estimates that it will fall short of the post-World War II record low set by the 1991 cropHere as in much of of France the year was characterised by an early picking season with grapes in good health and good maturity being harvested.
THE 2017 VINTAGE EN PRÉCIS
- Sufficient rain in the winter 2016 replenished soil water reserves • Temperatures during winter not too cold so
vines began their growing period early • End of April temperatures fell and growth slowed
restarting in May • Frost touched some producers (unusually for
Southern France). • High temperatures dominated throughout June
July August with the very little rain • The 2017 harvest at La Pèira was a little earlier
than usual but we had very good maturity.
• Yields were lower than 2016 due the somewhat dryer year and the flowering (coulure).
And the result?
- Aromatic suggestions of dark fruits, floral qualities,
spice (pepper), pencil lead • Full-bodied reds that match richness, complexity and length with a high degree of purity of fruit,
balance and elegance. • Soft silky fine tannins
• A third very successful vintage under Audrey Bonnet-Koenig’s supervision (2015, 2016, 2017)
LA PÈIRA 2017 REVIEWS
LA PÈIRA 2017 The 2017 La Pèira is brilliant. This estate continues to fashion some of the most impressive wines in the Languedoc. Blockbuster notes of smoked black fruits, ground pepper, and graphite all give way to full-bodied red that has building tannins, stunning purity of fruit, and a fresh, balanced, elegant style that’s going to age gracefully. 95-97+/100 Jeb Dunnuck
LA PÈIRA 2017 I was shown a prospective blend for the 2017 Terrasses du Larzac La Pèira, which comprises 50% Syrah, 40% Grenache and 10% Mourvèdre. Still to fully absorb its oak, vanilla and cedar notes loom large against a backdrop of cola, plum and blueberries. Full-bodied and concentrated, it finishes long and dusty, with a fair bit of tannic clout.” 92-95/100 Wine Advocate
2017 MATISSAT
MATISSAT 2017 A wine to be sought out by the Mourvèdre lovers out there, the 2017 Matissat (100% Mourvèdre brought up in demi-muids) offers a terrific perfume of black raspberries, spiced meat, pepper, and earth that develops beautifully with time in the glass. As with all these 2017s, it’s slightly more elegant and streamlined than usual, yet it gains richness and depth with time in the glass. Medium to full-bodied, beautifully balanced, with silky tannins, it’s going to benefit from 3-4 years of bottle age and should keep for 15-20 years. 94-96+/100 Jeb Dunnuck
MATISSAT 2017 The most impressive wine I tasted during my visit to this exemplary estate was the 2017 Terrasses du Larzac Matissat, which was still in a single demi-muid. A blend of 70% Mourvèdre, 20% Syrah and 10% Grenache, it displays knockout aromas of red raspberries and seductive vanilla. Full-bodied, lush and creamy, this looks to be even better than the impressive 2016. It’s a true Wow! wine, with tremendous richness, complexity and length. 95-97/100 Wine Advocate
LAS FLORS DE LA PÈIRA 2017
LAS FLORS DE LA PÈIRA 2017 More Grenache-based, the 2017 Las Flors de la Pèira offers a fresher, medium to full-bodied, more elegant style than usual. Perfumed notes of black raspberries, flowers, ground pepper, and spice all define the bouquet, and it too is beautifully balanced, has good acidity, and a balanced, lengthy, elegant profile that’s going to drink nicely right out of the gate. 93-95/100 Jeb Dunnuck
LAS FLORS DE LA PÈIRA 2017 The 2017 Terrasses du Larzac Las Flors de la Pèira is likely to be a blend of 30% each Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah, plus 5% each Carignan and Cinsault. Still in barrel, it’s full-bodied but showcases beautifully delineated notes of spring flowers, mixed red and black fruit and a dusting of baking spices on the long, silky finish. 92-95/100 Wine Advocate
OBRIERS DE LA PÈIRA 2018
OBRIERS DE LA PÈIRA 2017 Tasted from tank, the 2018 Terrasses du Larzac Les Obriers de la Peira was showing lots of floral notes and red fruit. This medium to full-bodied blend of roughly 28% Mourvèdre, 27% Carignan, 25% Cinsault, 20% Syrah and “a drop” of Grenache is already silky, fine and fun to drink. 90-92 Joe Czerwinski Wine Advocate
LA PÈIRA WHITES
LA PÈIRA BLANC 2018 The tiny production of the 2018 La Pèira Blanc consists of three barrels: two of Roussanne and one of Viognier. Blended in those proportions, it’s not overly floral but instead delivers ripe apricot and pineapple notes. It’s full-bodied and creamy in texture, a rich white that retains a bit of citrus zest on the finish to provide lift and freshness. 91 – 93/100 Wine Advocate
DEUSYLS DE LA PÈIRA 2018 Tasted as a prospective blend drawn from barrel, the 2018 Deusyls de la Peira is a rich, creamy-textured blend of 40% Roussanne, 25% each Clairette and Grenache Blanc and 10% Marsanne. Fermentation starts in tank but finishes in barrel, with partial malolactic. Full-bodied and lush, I’d opt to drink it young for its plush pear and tangerine flavors, but it might evolve well beyond my conservative drinking window. 90 – 92/100 Wine Advocate
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‘…Boasts an ethereal elegance that seems to be the Domaine’s Calling Card.’
Simon Field MW – BBR Buyer
We had the pleasure of a visit from Berry Bros. & Rudd’s Simon Field MW and Alun Griffiths MW.
Berry Bros. & Rudd is one of the the UK’s oldest fine wine merchants, alongside Justerini & Brook and Corney & Barrow.
Berry Bros. & Rudd Cellar Notes
‘To achieve such a thing is an achievement indeed, and puts this wine at or near to the top of the great wines of the Languedoc’
Simon Field MW – BBR Buyer
Simon Field M.W of Berry Bros. & Rudd – Tasting Notes
La Pèira 2006
Tasting Note: The senior wine for the Pèira Domaine has been picked at extraordinarily low yields of 7.5 hl/ha in 2006 and is, unsurprisingly extremely concentrated. Cassis, black cherry even macerated prune, then undergrowth, spice and black pepper; the wine is young of course yet already boasts an ethereal elegance that seems to be the Domaine’s Calling Card, this in spite of the richness of the wine. To achieve such a thing is an achievement indeed, and puts this wine at or near to the top of the great wines of the Languedoc.
Medium-Full Bodied, Dry, Ready, but will keep, Other Varieties, 14.5% alc.
Simon Field MW – BBR Buyer Download Cellar Notes (pdf)
Las Flors de la Pèira 2006
Tasting Note: Made from 40% Syrah, 40% Grenache and 20% Mourvèdre (therefore known as an SGM), La Flors is aged in small barrels, having , once again been selected from low yielding fruit. Dark fruits, almost rarified into a liqueur, undergrowth and even hints of tar and roses; plenty of personality in other words; the palate has concentration and depth, elegant all the way to its sweetly perfumed finish.
Medium-Full Bodied, Dry, Ready, but will keep, Other Varieties, 14.5% alc.
Simon Field MW – BBR Buyer Download Cellar Notes (pdf)
Deusyls de la Pèira 2005
Tasting Note: An absolute stunner! Only a few cases of white remained by the time we had taken Andrew Jefford’s advice, and tasted the range from Pèira. Made from 65% Viognier and 35% Roussanne, yielding a mean 17-18 hl/ha, this is one of the best white wines I have tasted from the Midi. It has texture, warmth and viscosity, a nose that evokes fennel, spring flowers, lemon, crushed chalk and a hint of tobacco; the palate marries green fruit, minerals and honey, with a characteristic hint of salinity. To finish the note as it started…stunning!
Medium-Full Bodied, Dry, Ready, but will keep, White Rhône Blend, 14.5% alc.
Simon Field MW – BBR Buyer Download Cellar Notes (pdf)
Les Obriers de la Pèira 2006
Tasting Note: Traditional winemaking with indigenous varietals (both Carignan and Cinsault pre-date Grenache in the area). The wine is incredibly complex, with aromas of tar, roses and spicy fruit; the palate is opulent and beautifully textured, a good match, perhaps, for beef stroganoff or meat-balls!
Medium-Full Bodied, Dry, Ready, but will keep, Other Varieties, 14.5% alc.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer Download Cellar Notes (pdf)
La Pèira
Our most exciting Languedoc find of 2008, La Pèira is located on the limestone plateau of the fashionable enclave of Les Terraces Du Larzac.
First planted by the Romans, these beautiful vineyards share the terrain with the Roquefort-producing sheep and the wild savagery of the garrigue. The Domaine consist of a stone barn, its location almost exactly half way between the two great properties of Grange Des Pères and Mas De Daumas Gassac.
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