A Month in York.

After a month in Edinburgh (Scotland), August was spent in York (Northern England).

What to say about York? It’s a small city (population of about 200K) with history dating back to the Romans and later the Vikings. It’s the favorite UK city of many, I’ve seen certain publications naming it “the UK’s best place to visit in 2024”, “the best place in Britain for quality of life”, the “UK’s favorite city”.

I don’t understand any of that. In fact, York was our most disappointing base since getting back to full-time travel 7 months ago.

In this post I cover our month in York, cover our costs, and tell you about our upcoming plans (which we finalized earlier this month. We’re pretty excited about them).

York

What’s so great about York? It’s got a lot of history. A good video here.

York Minster is the highlight, it is a majestic Cathedral. The city walls (or at least part of them) are worth walking. The city has many quaint, half-timbered buildings (which bring back memories of Germany) and you’ll come across many when walking around the old town. We enjoyed the Museum Gardens, a green space next to the river with an old Abbey. The National Railway Museum is great.

But honestly, you can see York’s highlights in a weekend.

It’s not the lack of highlights that put us off York. We like small to medium sized cities; cities like Split and Lviv come to mind. We spent May in Avignon which we loved. But York had none of the charm of those cities, it was jam-packed with tourists (to the point of being Disney-ish), locals weren’t that friendly (unlike Edinburgh) and the city is dirty. More on that when I write about our accommodation below.

So what’s so great about York? The truth is that I don’t know. Of course everything is personal and what you like might not be what I like. But it’s rare that our sentiments diverge so much from what seems to be the general consensus on York.

We made it a point to get out of York and explored much of the county of Yorkshire; visiting Knaresborough, Harrogate, Scarborough, and taking tours to the Yorkshire Dales National Park as well as the North York Moors National Park where we visited beautiful Whitby and experienced the North Yorkshire Moors Railway (the 2nd longest heritage railway in the UK). Those day trips were the highlight of our stays in York which do highlight a positive: York is well-connected to explore the region. While Yorkshire is the largest county in England, it is not that big: you can be almost anywhere within an hour.

Next: The Cost of a Month in York

The Cost of a Month in York

We knew that our time in the UK would be expensive so costs in August weren’t a surprise.

Accommodation

Our accommodation experiences so far in the UK haven’t been very good. After a disappointing apartment in Edinburgh, our Airbnb in York was even worse.

With a 4.96 rating on Airbnb, you really start wondering “who are these people reviewing these apartments?”.

Pros: modern with spacious rooms, big and up-to-date kitchen, large living room with a big TV, 1 ½ bathrooms, 2 upstairs bedrooms with very comfortable beds (something we haven’t had much luck with). Excellent location 10 minutes walk from the center of town

Cons: poor cleanliness, dusty everywhere, kitchen is greasy. The apartment smells, part of that due wall to wall carpeting in all the rooms (there’s no vacuum cleaner in the apartment which made us question whether the carpets were ever cleaned). There’s a fish and chips restaurant next door which brings in the rancid, nauseating odour of cooking grease. Most of the windows in the kitchen don’t open, the one that does open faces an alley full of the neighbour’s garbage*. There’s leaking in the upstairs bedroom when it rains.

*I’ve never seen a city anywhere in the world that handles garbage the way York does. Garbage for residents is picked up every 2 weeks. 2 weeks! When we arrived, our big bin of garbage was already packed to the top. Despite it being closed, it smelled and flies were swirling in our stoop (the bin was in a private entryway next to our front door). When we found out that garbage wouldn’t be picked up for another 10 days and that we had no place to put our garbage, I had to complain to our host. She came from Harrogate (30 minutes away) to clean out the bin and “relocate” the garbage. During our month, people would leave garbage bags and recycling in the alley and it wouldn’t take long for holes to appear in the bag and to see garbage strewn everywhere. You’d think that York was a 3^rd world shithole. I’ve never seen such poor handling of garbage. How can this happen in a place like the UK? (PS we’re now in London where garbage gets picked up once a week. Better but…)

The thing is that all the above could be easily fixed. The apartment could be a fantastic apartment if cleaned and properly maintained…and if the city could clean up the alleys and streets.

Bottom line is that 2,722 £ was a lot of money spent for little value. 

Long Distance Travel

We paid a total of 121 £ (60.50 £each) for the 2 hour, 15 minute train from Edinburgh to York.

Short Distance Travel

Return train York <-> Knarsborough (about 25 min), Total 14.50 £ (ie.7.25£ each)

Return train York <-> Harrogate (about 35 min), Total 17.20 £ (ie. 8.60£ each)

Return train York <-> Scarborough (about 50 min), Total 48.00 £ (ie. 24.00 £ each)

All are day trips worth doing.

Total = 80 £

Restaurants and Cafés

We didn’t eat out much in York, mostly because restaurants are expensive and there were so many tourists everywhere. One very good restaurant (a recommendation from a local) was Taas for Nepali/Indian food. Very good with large portions (we always had leftovers for the next day). We ate there 3 times during our stay with each meal averaging 42 £ for both of us. Other than that, we had a very mediocre meal in a Chinese restaurant and a few sandwich lunches in mom-and-pop restaurants while on day trips.

We also spent quite a bit on coffee. For those wondering how much a good cup of coffee costs in the UK, we’ve paid between 3.50 – 4.00 £ for a Cappuccino so far in our time here (York and Edinburgh). That tends to add up fast.

Groceries

We spent a total of 905 £ for groceries in August (up from the 866 £ in Edinburgh). But that’s because we ate out less in York (our restaurant bill in Edinburgh was double that in York. We had lots of good local restaurants in Edinburg).

Again, groceries in the UK are about 10-15% more than what we paid in France and about 40% more than Spain. I always find it interesting seeing those comparisons.

Tourist Sites

York Minster: 36.40 £ for the 2 of us (ie 18.20 £ each). That seems like a lot but the good thing is that your ticket is good for a year: so if you’re staying for a while (like us) you can visit as much as you want. We came 3 times, mostly for the museum in the basement which has a lot of details (all about the history of the site including some Roman ruins). In my opinion the York Minster is very much worth the splurge.

Pump Museum in Harrogate: 9.75£ for the 2 of us (ie 4.88 £ each). A history of the city of Harrogate. The museum is also the town’s Tourist office. Good overview of the town’s history.

Scarborough Castle: 22.00£ for the 2 of us (ie 11.00 £ each). Come for the views, what’s left of the castle is underwhelming. For the price I don’t think great value.

All Saints Church in York: 5.00£ donation. A historic and very pretty church that won’t show up on any highlights list. Known for its stained glass windows. Very much worth a visit.

Tips for tours: 40.00£ tips on tours. As bloggers we sometimes get free tours and in August we were invited by Best of Britain for tours of the Yorkshire Dales National Park and North York Moors National Park. Both were very good tours and we tipped our excellent guide.

Other

The balance of our costs were some of our usual monthly costs including some new clothes and travel insurance (we have an expat insurance policy with Genki for emergencies).

Upcoming Plans

We went back to full-time travel in February and to date we’ve spent 2 months in Spain, 3 months in France and are now in our 3^rd month in the UK. It’s been mostly very good (France being the highlight) but we’re looking forward to something different.

That will happen in November. It’ll be our first cruise and not just a cruise, a repositioning cruise that will take us from Barcelona to Guadeloupe in the French Antilles. An 18-day cruise with stops in the Canary Islands, Saint Maarten, St. Kitts, St. Vincent, Barbados, Grenada, Martinique and then Guadeloupe in early December.

As I say, we’ve never been on a cruise and I look forward to documenting it all.

From Guadeloupe we’ll fly to Santo Domingo (Dominican Republic) where we’ll stay a few days before flying on to Cancun via Mexico City.

Cancun will be the starting point to exploring Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula using the (relatively) new Maya train. We’re planning to be in Merida for Christmas/New Years. In the new year we hope to continue our train travel to Palenque in Chiapas. From there we’ll go to Cristobal de Las Casas and then start travelling through Central America. How far that takes us we’ll see…I’m excited about it while Lissette is nervous 😊.

In the meantime we have to get through a month in London. As I write this (a week into our stay) we’re having another bad Airbnb experience and I found out that I need to get some (expensive) dental work done. That’ll be next week. Great. I think the UK hates us. I’ll be writing more about that in next month’s summary.

Related: July 2026: A month in Edinburgh

The post August 2026: A Month in York (England) appeared first on The Travels of BBQboy and Spanky.

The 7 Best Places to Sail in Europe.

Whether you rent and sail your own vessel OR hire a skippered vessel, this post applies to you.

Europe’s main charter regions sit relatively close together, yet they offer very different experiences on the water. Croatia has short legs and an unusually dense marina network. The Ionian Sea gives beginners room to learn. The Cyclades can turn a holiday into a serious passage plan. The Balearics add open-water swell and expensive berths. Northern Sardinia has exceptional water, but the Bonifacio Strait deserves respect. Turkey is warmer, greener and calmer than many people expect. Stockholm replaces warm water with rocks, close navigation and long summer evenings.

1. Sailing Croatia: the easiest place to keep a flexible plan

Central Dalmatia, Croatia is generally the safest recommendation for a first sailing holiday. From Split, Trogir or Šibenik, many useful legs are only 10 to 25 nautical miles, meaning there are great destinations within easy reach. The islands reduce much of the open Adriatic swell, and another bay, quay or marina is usually within reach.

The normal summer maestral often builds during the afternoon. The winds to take more seriously is the bora, a gusty north-easterly that accelerates down the mountains, and the jugo, a south-easterly that can create a heavier sea in exposed channels. Croatia’s meteorological service describes the bora as particularly gusty and the jugo as steadier but stronger between islands and the mainland.

Recommended is at least one quiet anchorage, such as Stupica Vela on Žirje, rather than moving between famous towns every night. Croatia has a dense network of marinas, town quays and managed anchorages, which makes it relatively easy to change plans. The downside is the combination of summer crowds and rising prices. A nightly berth for a 12 to 14 metre monohull can cost around €100 and may exceed €200 in some of the most popular marinas. The silver lining is the sheer size of the local market. With thousands of charter vessels available in Croatia, there are plenty of affordable sailing options to keep costs manageable.

Sailing in Croatia with a skipper is sensible when nobody has handled Mediterranean stern-to mooring. The navigation is rarely the hardest part. A crowded arrival in a crosswind often is.

2. Sailing Greece in the Ionian and Saronic: best for beginners

For beginners looking for a first sailing trip, the Ionian Islands are often recommended before any other region in Europe. The mornings are often quiet, the afternoon breeze usually builds gradually, and many legs between Lefkada, Meganisi, Kastos, Kalamos and Ithaca are only 8 to 18 nautical miles.

The water is warm and blue-green. The islands and mainland reduce open-water swell, so the crew can spend more time sailing and less time recovering from it. A preferred type of stop is a small harbour such as Kioni on Ithaca, followed by a quieter night at anchor. Kioni fills early, so you should arrive before the afternoon rush.

The Saronic Gulf offers a similarly manageable week from Athens. Aegina, Poros and the Peloponnese coast form a compact route with several alternatives. Russian Bay on Poros is useful when the town quay is full.

Novice sailors still have to be careful. Afternoon gusts still appear near high land, crossed anchors are common on town quays, and a calm morning can tempt a skipper into planning too much distance. The Greek national weather service publishes separate forecasts for the Ionian, Saronic and Aegean because conditions can differ substantially on the same day.

The Ionian island is the best choice for new skippers and families looking to rent a boat without a captain or a crew*.  If you already hold a license, you can browse bareboat charters in the Ionian Sea to check what sizes and layouts are available for a low-stress route. There are also options for skippered trips if looking for a day out at sea.

*“Bareboat charters” refer a rental agreement where you hire a boat or yacht without a captain, crew, or provisions. You take full control of skippering, navigating, and provisioning the vessel yourself, giving you total privacy and freedom but also total responsibility for the trip.

3. Sailing the Greek islands in the Cyclades: for crews who want real sailing

The Cyclades are a top choice for the strongest sailing experience on this list. They are also the area that should be avoided for a nervous crew or first-time skipper.

The islands are exposed and the water is a deeper cobalt blue. In July and August, the Meltemi can blow from the north for several days. A 25-mile passage that looks modest on a chart becomes tiring when the wind is against the route and the sea is short and steep.

Such winds change how to plan a bareboat charter in Greece: instead of forcing through a fixed list of famous islands, it is recommended to build your route around wind direction. Keep conservative options as a backup. Syros, Paros, Kythnos and Serifos can form a good circuit, but – depending on the winds –  the order matters more than the names.

Finikas on Syros is a practical harbour because it offers better protection than many exposed island ports. In settled weather, Schinousa and Iraklia provide a quieter experience. In strong Meltemi conditions, it’s best to play it safe and shorten the route.

The reward of sailing the more challenging Cyclades is proper sailing (and less motoring). The downside is that the crew must reef early, tolerate rougher water and accept route changes. Greek marine bulletins warn that gusts can be considerably stronger than the stated average wind and that maximum waves can exceed the published significant wave height.

If you want this experience but lack an experienced skipper on board, you can look into skippered charters out of Athens to handle the passage planning safely. Since this is one of the primary charter hubs for the region, there is a large concentration of professional local skippers, so finding the right fit for a Meltemi route is usually straightforward.

4. Sailing the Balearic Islands: beautiful water, harder logistics

Mallorca, Menorca, Ibiza and Formentera look compact on a map, but sailing the Balearic Islands involves more open water than Croatia or the Ionian.

The crossing between Mallorca and Menorca is a substantial half-day passage for many charter yachts. Mallorca to Ibiza can consume most of a day. Even in moderate wind, leftover Mediterranean swell can keep the boat rolling after the local breeze has eased.

The water is exceptional over sand, especially around Formentera. Anchoring, however, requires more care than simply finding a turquoise patch. Posidonia seagrass is protected, and regulated buoy fields operate around Mallorca, Menorca, Ibiza and Formentera.

Recommended are Cala Saona on Formentera in a settled forecast and Port de Sóller when exploring Mallorca’s north-west coast. Do not try to visit Ibiza, Mallorca and Menorca in one week. It creates long legs and too little margin for weather.

Berths and organised buoys can be expensive, while popular calas become crowded in July and August. It makes sense here to choose your boat in Balearics well in advance to secure a decent price on the vessel itself and offset those seasonal marina costs. If looking for a skippered vessel, there are many options for a day out from Mallorca or Ibiza.

The Balearics suit confident coastal sailors who want clear water, restaurants and genuine passages. Before leaving, check the official AEMET marine forecast.

5. Sailing Italy around northern Sardinia: clear water, serious wind

For sailing Italy, northern Sardinia and the La Maddalena Archipelago are top recommendations. The water around Caprera, Spargi and Budelli can look tropical, but this is not simply a beach-hopping area.

The Bonifacio Strait funnels westerly winds between Sardinia and Corsica. When the Mistral arrives, conditions build quickly and an anchorage that worked in the morning may be uncomfortable by afternoon. The distances are short, yet rocks, shallows and protected zones demand attention.

Recommended is a route built around Cala Portese on Caprera and Cala Corsara on Spargi, provided the forecast and local restrictions allow it. La Maddalena National Park requires a permit to sail, moor or anchor within 300 metres of the coast. Seasonal rules also protect Posidonia and restrict activity in sensitive areas.

The area is expensive. Porto Cervo and the Costa Smeralda are not budget stops, so use anchorages intelligently and keep a marina night for provisioning or bad weather. Before committing to dates, it’s best to compare what charter prices are in Northern Sardinia to see which starting ports offer the best value. La Maddalena Archipelago is also a great area for a skippered tour with lots of affordable options.

Northern Sardinia suits an experienced skipper who wants stronger wind, exceptional water and short but technical navigation.

6. Sailing Turkey’s Turquoise Coast: the relaxed all-rounder

The Göcek and Fethiye coast combines warm water, wooded hills, short distances and a large number of protected bays.

Summer mornings can be very light. The afternoon breeze usually builds from the west or north-west, often around 10 to 20 knots, then weakens towards evening. Inside the Gulf of Fethiye, the sea is generally calmer than the open Aegean. Turkey’s meteorological service publishes separate marine and wave forecasts for its Aegean and Mediterranean coasts.

From Göcek, Bedri Rahmi Bay, Göbün Bay, Tersane Island and Boynuzbükü are close enough for short days. Many bays have restaurant jetties where the expected arrangement is dinner ashore rather than a conventional marina payment.

That’s a great arrangement because it reduces administration. Sail for a few hours, swim, secure the boat and walk to dinner. The downside is that narrow coves can produce local gusts, stern lines require care, and popular jetties fill earlier than expected.

For this style of bay-hopping, many sailors opt for traditional Turkish gulets. These motor-sailers are built specifically for this coast with broad beams, low drafts, and plenty of deck space for restaurant-jetty mooring. There are lots of good (and affordable) multi-day skippered options available on the Turquoise Coast.

Turkey suits beginners, families and flotillas. It also suits crews that value anchorages more than towns. The Ministry of Culture and Tourism lists Göcek, Fethiye, Marmaris, Datça and Bodrum among the established marina centres and identifies the Gulf of Göcek as a major sailing area.

7. Stockholm Archipelago: for navigators, not sunseekers

The Stockholm Archipelago offers something the Mediterranean cannot. It has more than 30,000 islands, long summer evenings and enough narrow channels to make a short day feel full.

The water is brackish, darker and colder. Tidal range is small, but granite rocks and shallow passages make navigation demanding. The wind bends around islands, so the sail plan may need more adjustment than the forecast suggests.

Natural mooring is part of the experience. Boats commonly anchor off and secure to rock or shore where conditions and local rules permit. Sweden’s right of public access allows temporary mooring in many places, provided sailors respect homes, protected areas and the environment.

Recommendations include Grinda, Sandhamn and quieter islands beyond the main ferry routes. Guest harbours are normally cheaper than famous Mediterranean marinas. Birka’s published 2026 fee is SEK 275 for 24 hours, plus SEK 80 for electricity.

However, many sailors head here specifically for natural mooring. If you plan to tie up off uninhabited islands, check sailboats in Stockholm for models with a bow ladder or shallow draft, which makes securing directly to granite rocks much safer.

If looking for a skippered option, there are tours that will take you for a pleasurable day around Stockholm’s archipelago.

This is not the right choice for people who measure a sailing holiday by water temperature. It is ideal for sailors who enjoy chart work, close navigation and quiet natural stops.

Which destination suits you?

Do you have a skipper?

You should choose the charter format after choosing the destination.

A bareboat gives complete control, but the skipper is responsible for weather decisions, deposits, maneuvering and crew confidence. The Ionian, Saronic Gulf and Göcek are the most sensible areas here for a first bareboat. Croatia also works, although crowded stern-to arrivals can be stressful.

A skippered charter is appropriate when the crew wants a holiday more than a sailing course. It is particularly useful in the Cyclades, Sardinia and the Balearics, where local weather and anchoring knowledge can prevent expensive mistakes.

A flotilla is a compromise between the two. You sail your own boat during the day, while a lead crew assists with the route, weather and evening mooring. It works best in the Ionian and Turkey, where several safe alternatives exist close together.

So what is the best place to Sail in Europe?

Ask an expert and they would probably choose the Ionian Islands. They offer the best balance of manageable distances, sheltered waters and reliable afternoon wind, making them suitable for both newer skippers and mixed-experience crews.

Croatia has better marina infrastructure and more route flexibility, while Turkey is stronger for quiet bays, swimming and relaxed evenings ashore. The Cyclades offer the most exciting sailing, but they also demand more experience and a greater willingness to change plans when the wind builds.

The Ionian may not provide the most demanding conditions or the wildest scenery on this list, but it is the destination where you can most confidently plan a varied and enjoyable week on the water.

Related: The Best of Croatia in 7 Days

The post The 7 Best Places to Sail in Europe (and which is best for you) appeared first on The Travels of BBQboy and Spanky.

30 Things to Do in Edinburgh.

We spent the month of July in Edinburgh and really got to know and appreciate this city. I’ll mention this right off the top: the locals are very nice, in fact the Scottish rank up there with some of the nicest people we’ve met anywhere.

In this post I cover 30 things to do in Edinburgh. Note: it doesn’t mean you have to do each, in fact there are some top-rated highlights that I would probably skip if we were to do it again. I’m going to be very honest about everything I cover below and I’ll leave it up to you to decide if you want to visit or skip these sites and attractions.

1. Edinburgh Castle

I’m going to start with the highlight that will get me in the most trouble: Edinburgh Castle.

Edinburgh Castle has lots of history and it is very impressive to look at from the outside: huge and imposing with a vantage point overlooking the city center. But the truth is that we were massively disappointed with our visit.

Why?

1) it is crowded. You’d think that at £23.50/pp (it’s the most expensive attraction in all of Scotland) that there wouldn’t be so many people. There are.

2) It’s not a castle per se, Edinburgh Castle was a fortress. So, apart from the Great Hall and the Royal Rooms of Mary Queen of Scots, you won’t find the furnished rooms that you would in many castles. Instead, the bare rooms now host a variety of museums, most of them crammed with tourists.

3) While the views from the castle are good, you’ll find better views of Edinburgh from other spots…for free.

If you were ready to splurge for just one Scottish Castle, I would recommend that you visit Stirling Castle in the town of Stirling (1 hour away by train). I’ll be writing about that soon.

I know most people coming to Edinburgh will want to visit Edinburgh Castle, after all you’ve come all this way. I just don’t think it’s worth it though.

Ps. I’ll list a few spots in town with equal or better views of Edinburgh than the castle. I’ll also tell you where you can get great views of the castle itself.

2. St Giles’ Cathedral

The beautiful Cathedral (dating from 1124!) down the Royal Mile from the castle. It’s a cosy, Gothic-style Cathedral with gorgeous stained glass windows. The Thistle Chapel is incredibly elaborate and gorgeous. I think the Cathedral is very impressive and definitely worth a visit.

The question is cost. We went in July when there was no set fee, just a “suggested donation” of £10. But as of now (September 2026) the Cathedral was meant to impose a mandatory £12 per person charge. That’s a lot of money to visit what is a relatively small cathedral.

What would I do? I’d probably pay that £12/pp, we were quite impressed by the Cathedral. Use the money you saved at the castle 😊

3. Royal Mile

There’s no question whether to visit or not visit the Royal Mile: it is the backbone of Edinburgh’s Old Town and you won’t have a choice but to walk it.

Pros: many of Edinburgh’s highlights are along the Royal Mile: the castle on one end, Holyrood Palace at the other. Between them are the Cathedral (which I covered above), the Camera Obscura, Canongate Kirk church, a few museums and many of the city’s famous Closes (all to be covered). Really, there’s lots to see along this stretch even apart from the highlights.

Cons: it is so crowded and so touristy. My worst memories of Edinburgh was walking along the Royal Mile, trying to dodge the crowds. I honestly hated the Royal Mile just for those reasons.

4. Calton Hill

A volcanic hill a very short (maybe 10 minute) walk from the Royal Mile. There are some monuments up here but the main reason to come are the great views of the city on one side and the water (the Firth of Forth) on the other. It’s a public space and completely free to visit.

A must if you’re visiting Edinburgh.

5. Arthur’s Seat/Holyrood Park

I loved hiking in Holyrood Park; a real park right next to the city center.

My highlight were the Salisbury Crags, where you get fantastic views looking over Edinburgh. Arthur’s Seat is a longer hike and what many people do…and it’s great but I just preferred Salisbury Crags for the view. But it’s very easy to combine both.

I write all about hiking Arthur’s Seat and the Salisbury Crags here. I was my personal favorite thing to do in Edinburgh.

6. Holyrood Palace

This Palace has been the residence of the Royal family when they visit Scotland since the 16th century. Every year King Charles spends a week here when carrying out official functions in Edinburgh.

What to See: 1) The Palace and Royal rooms including that of Mary Queen of Scots (note: no photos allowed inside the palace), 2) the 12th century ruins of Holyrood Abbey, 3) the gardens and grounds of the Palace.

It’s expensive at £22 pp and I think a lot of people will feel it’s overpriced for what it is. But if you’re interested in history and the Royal Family then it’s worth it.

7. Princes Street Garden

Just between the Old Town and New Town (previously a body of water that was drained in the early 1800’s) is this beautiful park.

You’ll find beautiful flower gardens, monuments and sculptures, and the Ross fountain – incidentally one of the best places in the city to look up at Edinburgh Castle.

Free and a “must-do” in Edinburgh.

8. Camera Obscura

Its full name is “Camera Obscura & World of Illusions” and it is located just steps from the entrance to the castle. It’s famous for the Camera Obscura which was first installed on Calton hill in 1835. Now it is on the roof of this tower and you can learn all about it. But kids will love this place for the interactive illusion games that you’ll find on its 5 floors. Go to the top floor rooftop terrace for fantastic views of Edinburgh.

Recommended for parents who want to keep their kids entertained…while enjoying what I think are the best views of the city from anywhere in the old town.

9. Victoria Steet 

One of the most picturesque (and colourful) streets in Edinburgh which some say was the inspiration for Diagon Alley in the Harry Potter series (I don’t really see the resemblance). Above the street, which is curved and leads down to Grassmarket street, is a pedestrian walkway called Victoria Terrace. You’ll find a few bars and restaurants up there where you can enjoy the views of the activity below.

Free and a “must-do” in Edinburgh.

10. Grassmarket Square

Very close to the above Victoria Street is Grassmarket square. It was here where the city held its weekly market in the 15th century. Later it was Edinburgh’s primary site for public executions.

Today it is a pretty square with beautiful medieval buildings.

Note: come here after visiting Victoria Street and then continue on to Vennel Viewpoint (next on this list)

11. Vennel Viewpoint

At the far end of Grassmarket square you’ll get great views looking up at the castle. Opposite the views to the castle, you’ll see a set of stairs. That’s the way up to the Vennel Viewpoint (which isn’t so much a “viewpoint” as that you’ve reached the top of the stairs).

I don’t know if the views here are really that much better than those at the bottom of the stairs…but the fact that this is a well-known “viewpoint” tells you that it’s a popular spot.

CEMETERIES

Edinburgh has some pretty fabulous cemeteries with plenty of spooky ambiance.

12. Greyfriars Kirkyard cemetery

Lots of stories here, including of Greyfriars Bobby (a dog who, when his owner died, guarded his grave for 14 years), names that inspired J.K Rowling to use them as her inspiration in Harry Potter (Thomas Riddell, William McGonagall, Elizabeth Moodie) as well as a grave so haunted that it is kept locked. This video (very interesting) names Greyfriars Kirkyard cemetery as the “most haunted cemetery in the world”.

But besides all that, Greyfriars Kirkyard cemetery has an interesting setting with a church, impressive crypts, and a historical wall.

13. New Calton Burial Ground

On a hill with views of Edinburgh, especially of Holyrood Palace and the peaks of Holyrood Park, the New Calton Burial Ground has lots of atmosphere. Why the name? When the city wanted to appropriate some property from the Old Calton Burial Ground, they had to make room…so they exhumed about 300 bodies and reburied them here in the early 1800’s. In 1821 the burial ground was opened for new burials, and remained in use until closed in the 1870s.

Interesting note: There’s a watchtower in the cemetery, built in 1820 to stop “body snatchers” from stealing fresh corpses for medical school dissection.

14. Canongate Kirk church and cemetery

Located on the Royal Mile just a bit up from Holyrood Palace, the Canongate Kirk Church has formal connections with the Palace. In fact, Queen Elizabeth II would often attend services here during her visits to Holyrood Palace. The pew at the front of the church bears the crown emblem to indicate its use by the royal family.

15. Dean Village

About a 15 minute walk from Edinburgh’s center, Dean Village feels like a little town built along the river. That’s because that’s exactly what it was: known as far back as 1535 as “the miller’s village” it used to be the hub of the city’s grain mills. It was at its peak in the 18th century, there were 11 mills here, all powered by the river.

Today Dean village is a residential area with quaint bridges and buildings. At its heart is the Water of Leith walkway, a 12-mile (20 km) path along the river and through the woods. 

More here on Dean Village.

In my books a “must see”. It’s just a whole different side of Edinburgh.

16. Circus Lane

Circus Lane: a curved street that’s considered one of the prettiest streets in the UK. Originally built to contain the stables and carriage houses of Edinburgh’s wealthy, buildings were later upgraded to what you see today. With St. Stephen’s Church in the background, the cobblestone street and all the flowers well-tended for by the residents, Circus Lane is a pretty spot.

Really, There’s not much to Circus Lane other than a photo opportunity. But you can combine it with Dean Village (above) on a circuitous walk that will bring you back to the center. More on that here.

MUSEUMS

Edinburgh has a few great museums that you can visit for FREE. Each caters to different interests so some may interest you more than others.

17. National Museum of Scotland

I have a hard time telling you what this museum covers because it basically covers everything. You’ll find a room full of flying dinosaurs and wild animals (you’ll think yourself in Jumanji), another with real planes hanging from the ceiling, another with interactive science and technology exhibits. There are sections all about Scotland, from culture to history to the economy over the centuries. There’s so much here and it’s all housed in a very large and beautiful building. On the top floor are good views over the city.

I think it’s a bit scattered in the topics it covers. But it is a GREAT museum if you have kids, the visuals here are just incredible.

As mentioned, this museum is free along with every other museum I list below. So you can come here multiple days to explore different parts of the museum.

18. National Gallery of Scotland

A great art museum and we enjoyed seeing work by some of the best Scottish artists of all time. You’ll see lots of painting of Edinburgh and the Scottish countryside so it really gives you an extended taste of the country you’re visiting. But the National Gallery also has lots of works from international artists including originals by Monet, Matisse, Gaughin, Cezanne and even Van Gogh.

Highly recommend you visit this museum.

19. Scottish National Portrait Gallery

Another great museum housed in an impressive Gothic building. When you walk in you’ll be amazed by the gorgeous entrance hall.

The Scottish National Portrait Gallery is a collection of portraits through paint, photos and sculpture of famous Scots (it’s a Who’s Who of Scotland) as well as international figures (including portraits of a young Churchill and King Charles). But there are also some interesting and eccentric portraits of more common people.

Again, you really should make time for this museum.

20. Museum of Edinburgh/People’s Story Museum

If you want to know about history and what life was like in Medieval Edinburgh, you should visit the Museum of Edinburgh as well as the People’s Story Museum right across the street (which is related to the former). Both are free.

The Museum of Edinburgh isn’t big but there’s a lot of detail and much to see. I loved the models of the city and found interesting the story of how the New Town was planned out and the story behind it (they even have the original architectural plans). Very interesting. The People’s Story Museum is more about the people behind the history and makes you realize how decrepit life was in Edinburgh, even until the mid 1900’s.

An essential “must-do” if you want to understand the history of Edinburgh.

21. Writers Museum

Edinburgh has 3 famous writers: Walter Scott (one of the most popular novel writers in all of Europe in the early 1800’s), Robert Burns (regarded as the national poet of Scotland) and Robert Louis Stevenson (known for novels such as Treasure Island and Strange Case of Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde).

This museum includes portraits, works and personal objects of the 3 writers.

Recommended for anyone who’s interested in knowing more about these writers.

22. The Shore Leith (Old port)

The Shore was the original port of Leith and Edinburgh. It was a major trading port with exports such as fish, coal, grain and animal hides going to Northern Europe and the Mediterranean and imports such as wine, fruit, spices and cloth coming back.

Today the area is busy with bars and restaurants frequented mostly by locals. But it’s pretty and you should also take one of the small bridges across the river to see remaining locks (Google “Teuchters Landing”) to find the sport. It’s an atmospheric area and you won’t see many tourists.

You may want to combine the above with the next item…

23. The Royal Yacht Britannia

The Royal Yacht Britania was the former Royal yacht (1954 – 1997) of the British Monarchy. The monarch during this whole time was Queen Elizabeth II and she sailed around the world (mostly with her husband Philip, the Duke of Edinburgh). For example, they sailed Britannia to the United States in 1959. The vessel has had notable dignitaries come aboard such as Dwight Eisenhower, Gerard Ford, Ronald Reagan, Bill Clinton, Frank Sinatra, Ursula Andress…and many more. Prince Charles (now king) and Diana took the Britannia on their honeymoon cruise.  

The Britannia is now retired but it sits in the Port of Leith and you can visit it. About 300,000 visitors visit it every year.

Note: It’s not cheap to visit (£23 for an advance ticket). The official website where you can also buy tickets. I’ll admit we didn’t visit the yacht which we now regret. It gets very good reviews on trip advisor).

24. Craigmillar Castle

If you want to visit a castle in Edinburgh that is not Edinburgh Castle, then you should visit Craigmillar Castle. It’s more “castle ruin” than castle but it’s remote setting (it’s not really “remote” but feels that way with its location amid grasslands) and lack of tourists made it a pleasure to visit. We enjoyed climbing the towers and imagining the history (Mary Queen of Scots stayed here for a few weeks in 1566).

Getting there: the 33 and 49 buses get you from Edinburgh’s center to close to the castle in about 40 minutes. From there you have to walk about 10 minutes along a path to get to the castle itself.

25. Edinburgh’s “Closes”

“Closes” are historic little alleyways and passageways that often bring you to surprising and almost secret spots in the old town. Most are actually located right on the Royal Mile. They’re not really “secret” anymore, seeking out “closes” now seems quite popular among tourists.

Popular Closes include White horse close, Sugarhouse close, Riddles Court and Lady Stair’s Close. My favorite Close is Dunbars Close which, based on our experience, many have not heard of (the alleyway brings you to a series of gardens. You’re steps off the Royal Mile yet suddenly you’re in the middle of nature)

26. Have a beer at The Guildford Arms

An atmospheric pub located steps from Princes St.  One of the most beautiful pubs in Edinburgh with good beer. One of Edinburgh’s classic pubs.

27. St. Andrew Square Garden

When they started building the New Town in 1772, they started here. A pretty square surrounded by impressive buildings. Good place to sit in the park.

28. The Scott Monument

I’ve previously mentioned Sir Walter Scott the famous novelist (when describing the Writer’s Museum). On Princes Street you’ll find this impressive monument dedicated to him. It is the second-largest monument dedicated to a writer in the world (only the José Martí monument in Havana is larger). Today you can take a tour explaining the monument and climb up the monument itself.

29. The New College of the University of Edinburgh

A beautiful building. But it gets even better when you enter the courtyard and see the views of “the hub” across the way (a former church, now an arts and events venue).

30. Tron Kirk market

On the Royal Mile, this is a church that’s been converted into a market selling mostly artisanal items (most higher end souvenirs). Worth a pop into just because of the setting and beautiful stained glass.

I’ll add to the list if more highlights come to mind…

What have I missed in Edinburgh? Feel free to let me know.

Related: A Visit to North Berwick (and Tantallon Castle)

Related: Edinburgh: a hike up to Arthur’s Seat (and what to prioritize instead)

The post 30 Things to Do in Edinburgh appeared first on The Travels of BBQboy and Spanky.

A Tour of Whitby and the North York Moors National Park.

This tour was one of the highlights of a month spent in York.

We had wanted to visit the seaside town of Whitby but, without a car, it was near impossible to visit independently from York (a 3 hour bus…one way!).

So we took the Whitby & The North York Moors Day Trip from York with a company called Best of Britain. Part of the tour was a visit to Whitby but it also included a drive (and stops) in the North York Moors National Park (beautiful!) as well as an optional ride on the North Yorkshire Moors Railway (the 2^nd longest heritage railway in England).

All about our tour of the Whitby and the North York Moors National Park below.

Starting Off

The meeting point was at 8:50 am at the Dean Court Hotel, steps from the York Minster. There were 14 of us on the tour plus our guide/driver Mark. We knew Mark: a couple of weeks previous we had done a tour of the Yorkshire Dales National Park with him and had been impressed by both his knowledge and ability to get it across in an entertaining way. A great guide.

Our drive took us Northeast of York, passing Sheriff Hutton (where you’ll see the impressive ruins of a 14^th century castle) and the pretty town of Hovingham.

Coming along this route, there is no sign that you’re entering the North York Moors National Park except for a cattle grid that the van rattled over. The North York Moors National Park is one of two National Parks in Yorkshire (the other being the Yorkshire Dales National Park which I mentioned up top).

What’s the difference between the two parks? The Yorkshire Dales National Park is defined by green valleys, limestone and the dry stone walls everywhere. The North York Moors National Park is defined by wide open spaces, colourful shrubs called heather*, and a dramatic descent to coastal towns (like Whitby) on the North Sea.

*As you’ll see below, the effect of the heather on these hills is gorgeous. The best time to come is in late summer (mid-August to mid-September) when the shrubs break out into brilliant purples and pinks that cover the area.

Hutton-le-Hole

Almost exactly 1 hour since having started out from York, Hutton-le-Hole was our first stop on the tour. Why Hutton-le-Hole? While it’s a pretty little place (incredulously listed by Condé Nast Traveler as one of the among the “20 most beautiful villages in the UK and Ireland“), there’s really not much to it except for a “little waterfall” as Mark put it. Rather, stopping here was to give everyone a chance to stretch their legs, use the free public bathrooms, and get a coffee or snack at the fabulous bakery on the edge of town.

Curious about the name? It used to be called “Hoton” but someone got it into their heads that “Hutton-le-Hole” would sound much more dignified and appealing to the visitor. I guess they were right.

The North York Moors National Park

From Hutton-le-Hole, the road climbed into the park, the horizon opening up and the views getting more and more beautiful as we continued on.

Blakey Ridge marks the highest point in the park. On this ridge you’ll see the symbol of the North York Moors National Park: Young Ralph cross. The story: a farmer named Ralph had come up here with his flock of sheep when suddenly the weather turned. With not enough time to return to his village, he hunkered down with his sheep for the night. The next morning, the weather having cleared, he found a traveller who had died from hypothermia. He was so moved by his finding that he commemorated the traveller by erecting a cross in his memory in this spot.

The cross is about 10 feet high and is thought to have originated in the 11^th century.

Continuing on, it doesn’t take long to see the blue of the North Sea. Although seemingly close, we were still about 20 miles from the coast. It just goes to show how open the spaces and how expansive the views are in the North York Moors.

Whitby

Besides being a very pretty town with a majestically-situated 7^th century abbey, Whitby has two major claims to fame;

• Explorer James Cook, who was born just a bit inland, came to Whitby in his late teens and it was here that he started his maritime training. After 9 years in Whitby, he joined the British Royal Navy and would eventually lead them through 3 trips of exploration through the Pacific and Southern Oceans. He was killed in Hawaii in 1779 during a dispute with a local chief. Whitby has a monument dedicated to James Cook as well as a museum in the house in which he once lived. There’s also a replica of HMS Endeavour in the harbour.
• It was in Whitby that Bram Stoker (an Irishman) got his inspiration for the novel “Dracula” (in quotations because, contrary to what some think, Dracula wasn’t a real person). In fact, there are several references to Whitby in the novel, specifically Whitby Abbey, St. Marys’s church (and graveyard) and the 199 steps up from town. More on that here.

After driving into Whitby and stopping at the Whalebone arch (a real set of whale jaw bones), we drove into town. We were given almost 2 hours of free time in Whitby.

What to do in 2 hours in Whitby?

There are several options:

• See Whitby Abbey
• Mary’s church and graveyard
• Wander the pretty old town and harbour (including the Endeavour replica)
• Visit the James Cook museum.
• If you haven’t done it, go up to the Whalebone arch for the views.

Really, there wasn’t time to do everything so we focused on the outdoor activities: seeing the Abbey, the church and graveyard and walking down the steps into the old town. I would have loved to see the James Cook museum but there was just no time. Plus we had to get something for lunch which ended up being a sandwich at Daisy Baileys (possibly the worst sandwich I’ve had in my life. But they’re better known for their ice cream).

Some photos.

If I had any tips to give on visiting Whitby: if lunch is your priority, go to a restaurant as soon as they open up (Mark’s recommendations: Trenchers, The Vault and I think the 3^rd was Cosa Nostra). We arrived back in town at 1 pm and the lines to get into any decent restaurant were 20 deep. That, and a sudden downpour, had us going to Daisy Baileys.

The North Yorkshire Moors Railway

At 1:50 we all met up at the Whitby train station. While riding the North Yorkshire Moors Railway is an option on the tour everyone had chosen to participate (note: Best of Britain gets a discounted fare of £11, almost half of the regular fare. There are other perks which I’ll go into below).

As mentioned above, North Yorkshire Moors Railway is the 2nd longest heritage railway in the UK at 24 miles, the route running from Whitby to Pickering. Only the West Highland Railway in Wales is longer (at 26 miles). It might be the 2nd longest, but the North Yorkshire Moors Railway is the most popular in Britain and might be the busiest steam heritage lines in the world carrying about 350,000 passengers per year.

What makes the North Yorkshire Moors Railway popular?

• It runs through the North York Moors National Park so you can see some of the scenery I’ve highlighted above from the train window.
• You can ride a vintage steam locomotive (or a diesel locomotive if conditions don’t allow), most dating from the early 1900’s. See here the list of locomotives used on the railway.
• One of the most popular stops is the one where we would get off: Goathland station. It was the filming location of Hogsmead station in the Harry Potter movies and appears much like it is portrayed in the series.

I mentioned the perks of taking the tour; Mark had prearranged everything for us. We didn’t have to get in line with the general public, we had seats on the train specifically reserved for us and, as stated above, we had a discounted fare. After seeing us off, Mark would go back to the van and drive to the Goathland station where he would meet us when the train arrived.

It was all very well planned and coordinated.

A few more facts about the railway:

• It was first opened in 1836 as a way to move supplies from the port of Whitby up to Pickering
• In the mid-1900’s the line was deemed uneconomical and freight stopped being transported along the line in 1966.
• In 1973 the line was sold and the North Yorkshire Moors Railway was opened. Since then it has gotten more and more popular with tourists.

Our trip from Whitby to Goathland station took 50 minutes, the scenery pretty and the experience on the train pleasant. At Goathland we got off the train, Mark on the platform making sure that all of us got off.

Summarizing the rest of the tour

Goathland is a popular spot, famous as a filming location for Harry Potter as well as the series “Heartbeat” which ran for 18 years on British TV. You’ll see a bunch of souvenir stores here selling almost exclusively Hearbeat memorabilia.

After a brief stop in Goathland we drove back towards York, passing through the North York Moors National Park. One of the interesting things along the way (and in the park itself) is the RAF Fyingdales ballistic missile early warning system. It is one of three stations worldwide in the United States Ballistic Missile Early Warning System (BMEWS) network (the other two are in Greenland and Alaska). The radars here can detect projectiles heading towards the UK from as far as 3,500 miles (5,600 Km) away.

The last highlight was outside the boundaries of the park as we neared York. It is Castle Howard, a large mansion built in the late 1500’s for the wealthy Howard family. We didn’t stop for a visit but for those curious, Castle Howard can be visited and is a popular day trip from York. How to get there on your own: Bus X81 from York goes several times a day, taking 1 hour to get there.

About 20 minutes later we were back in York.

As I wrote at the top, this was one of our most enjoyable days in the York region. We had wanted to visit Whitby and it was everything we had hoped for. As far as the North York Moors National Park, it surpassed all expectations. Some gorgeous geography and taking the train ride was an added bonus.

 Many thanks to Mark – a great tour guide – and Best of Britain.

Related: Why Knaresborough is a great day trip from York

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The perfect 3-day itinerary for Sorrento.

Sorrento is one of those destinations where deciding how long to stay can be surprisingly difficult. The town itself is compact enough to explore in a day.  But if you’re going to come here, you may as well discover some of southern Italy’s most famous destinations: places like Capri, Positano, Amalfi, Pompeii and the entire Sorrento and Amalfi Coast. Sorrento’s location makes it the perfect base to explore the region. 

In this post I’ll tell you how to discover the best of Sorrento  – from its historic streets and spectacular viewpoints – as well as Capri, Positano, Amalfi and even Pompeii. There’s a secret to fitting in so much into a short trip.

So, how many days do you really need in Sorrento?

Three full days is an excellent starting point. It gives you enough time to experience Sorrento itself, dedicate a day to Capri and spend another exploring the Amalfi Coast without turning your holiday into a race from one attraction to another.

There is, however, one important condition: how you move around matters just as much as how much time you have.

On a map, Positano and Amalfi and other small towns along the coast all look remarkably close to Sorrento. By road, things can be very different. During spring and especially summer, traffic along the coast can turn relatively short distances into long journeys. Parking in the coastal towns is limited, expensive and often difficult to find.

The sea completely changes the geography of the trip. Instead of spending hours inside a car or bus, you can travel directly along the coastline, combining transportation with one of the most beautiful experiences of your holiday. This is why a well-planned three-day stay can actually allow you to see much more than you might expect.

Boat travel also offers something that cannot be measured only in minutes saved. When travelling by car or bus, transportation is usually dead time: you are waiting to arrive somewhere. On a boat, travelling becomes part of the day.

You can see the coastline, sunbathe, take photographs, stop for a swim and discover places inaccessible from land. On a private tour there is also greater flexibility to decide where to spend more time, where to swim and, depending on the itinerary, where to stop for lunch.

This is particularly valuable when your holiday is short. Three days do not feel like three days spent commuting between destinations. They become three complete days of experiences.

For travellers who want to explore Capri and the Amalfi Coast this way, local operators such as PDG Boat Tours offer private boat tours departing from the Sorrento area, allowing the itinerary itself to become part of the holiday rather than simply transportation between stops.

Day 1 — Exploring the heart of Sorrento

Your first day should belong entirely to Sorrento. After travelling to reach the coast, there is no reason to immediately start another excursion. Sorrento deserves time of its own, and its relatively small historic centre makes it particularly enjoyable to explore without a strict schedule.

Start at Piazza Tasso, the lively heart of town. Cafés, historic buildings and busy streets converge here, making it a natural starting point for discovering Sorrento. Just a few steps away you can look down into the Vallone dei Mulini, one of the town’s most unusual sights. The deep valley, now covered in vegetation, contains the ruins of an old mill and offers a glimpse into a very different Sorrento hidden below the modern streets.

From here, forget the map for a while.

Walk through the narrow lanes of the historic centre, particularly around Via San Cesareo. You will pass small food shops, artisan workshops, limoncello producers, restaurants and boutiques. Sorrento is compact, and getting slightly lost among these streets is often more rewarding than moving systematically between landmarks.

Continue towards the Cloister of San Francesco, one of the most atmospheric corners of the historic centre, before reaching the Villa Comunale. Its terrace offers one of Sorrento’s classic views: the Bay of Naples stretching towards Mount Vesuvius, with the coastline below and boats crossing the water in every direction.

This is also a good moment for a gelato, coffee or lemon granita. There is no need to fill every hour with sightseeing. Part of experiencing Sorrento is simply stopping somewhere beautiful and watching the town move around you.

Later in the afternoon, head down towards Marina Grande, Sorrento’s old fishing village. Despite being only a short distance from the centre, it has a noticeably different atmosphere. Fishing boats sit close to the shore, restaurants line the waterfront and the rhythm becomes slower.

Stay here for dinner if you can. Fresh fish, local seafood, a glass of Campanian wine and the lights appearing across the Bay of Naples make Marina Grande an ideal ending to your first day.

And then get some rest: tomorrow is when Sorrento’s location really begins to work in your favour.

Day 2 — A dream day in Capri

Capri is so close to Sorrento that not visiting it during a three-day stay would be difficult to justify. But there is an important distinction between simply getting to Capri and actually experiencing Capri from the sea.

Hydrofoils connect Sorrento with Marina Grande on the island and are a practical solution if your priority is simply reaching Capri town. During high season, however, departures and arrivals can be crowded, and once you arrive you are following essentially the same route as thousands of other daily visitors.

A boat tour offers a very different day.

Leaving Sorrento in the morning, the journey itself becomes part of the experience. As the boat moves away from the peninsula, you begin to understand the geography of the coastline in a way that is impossible from land. Sorrento rises above the cliffs behind you, while Capri gradually appears ahead.

Once you reach the island, take time to explore its coastline. Sail past dramatic cliffs and sea caves, see the famous Faraglioni from the water and stop for a swim when conditions allow. Capri’s beauty is not limited to the Piazzetta or its boutiques: some of its most spectacular scenery is found precisely where the road cannot reach.

This is one of the reasons why travelling by boat makes such a difference when you only have three days available. You are not losing time travelling between experiences — the journey is already one of the experiences.

With a private boat tour, you can usually combine time at sea with time on the island; the skipper will be happy to adapt the day according to sea conditions, timing and what you would most like to see. Once ashore, head towards Capri town and the famous Piazzetta, then walk through the elegant pedestrian streets towards the Gardens of Augustus. From here, the view over the Faraglioni and Via Krupp is one of the island’s most recognisable panoramas.

If you have more time, you can explore Anacapri, but avoid trying to tick off every attraction in a single day. Capri is much more enjoyable when you leave space for an espresso, a walk, lunch or simply a few minutes looking at the sea.

Just a small tip: leave early in the morning. The sea is often calmer, temperatures are more pleasant during summer, and you can enjoy the coastline before the busiest part of the day.

Day 3 — Amalfi & Positano by sea

Your third day is the most ambitious: Positano and Amalfi.

Seeing both towns in one day from Sorrento is absolutely possible, but the way you travel makes an enormous difference.

The road connecting the Sorrento Peninsula and the Amalfi Coast is spectacular. It is also narrow, winding and extremely busy during the main tourist season. A distance that looks short on Google Maps can take considerably longer than expected when traffic builds up. Once you reach Positano or Amalfi, another problem appears: parking.

If you only have three days, spending a significant part of one of them sitting in traffic is hardly the best use of your holiday.

By sea, the same day feels completely different.

Leaving Sorrento by boat means travelling along the coast rather than fighting your way through it. There are no parking spaces to search for and no long queues of cars between towns. Instead, the journey reveals cliffs, coves, small beaches, fishing villages and coastal landscapes that remain hidden from the road.

It also allows you to understand why the Amalfi Coast became famous in the first place.

Approaching Positano from the water is an experience in itself. The pastel-coloured houses appear stacked vertically against the mountainside, rising from the beach towards the hills. From the sea, you can see the entire town at once before stepping ashore.

Spend some time walking through Positano’s narrow streets, browsing its boutiques and exploring the area around Spiaggia Grande. You do not necessarily need several hours here: part of the pleasure of a boat itinerary is being able to enjoy the town and then continue exploring rather than spending the entire day in one place.

Back on board, continue towards Amalfi. Along the way, the coastline becomes the attraction: tiny beaches beneath enormous cliffs, historic villas, caves and villages built in places that seem almost impossible to reach.

In Amalfi, walk from the harbour towards Piazza Duomo and visit the impressive Cathedral of Sant’Andrea. Stop for coffee, a pastry or a lemon granita before wandering through the narrow streets behind the main square.

Then return to the boat.

This is where a sea-based itinerary really proves its value. A day that could otherwise involve buses, transfers, queues and parking becomes a continuous coastal experience. Between Positano and Amalfi you can swim, relax on deck or simply watch one of Italy’s most extraordinary landscapes pass in front of you.

Depending on the boat tour and itinerary, there may also be opportunities to stop near quieter swimming spots along the coast. Again, remember that your skipper is your best friend and he will make wsure to adapt the day to your pace.

If you are staying in Sorrento for only three days, this efficiency is essential. You are not trying to see more by rushing. You are able to see more because you have removed much of the wasted time from the journey.

Bonus tip — Visit Pompeii without sacrificing one of your three days

There is one destination missing from the itinerary: Pompeii.

That is intentional.

Pompeii is absolutely worth visiting, but if you have only three days in Sorrento, dedicating an entire day to it means giving up either Capri or the Amalfi Coast. There is a smarter solution: visit Pompeii while travelling between Naples and Sorrento.

The Circumvesuviana railway connects Naples with Sorrento and stops at Pompei Scavi–Villa dei Misteri, close to the archaeological site. This makes it possible to visit the ruins either on the day you arrive in Sorrento or on your way back towards Naples.

If you are travelling light, the train is the simplest option. Leave Naples, stop at Pompeii, explore the archaeological site and continue towards Sorrento afterwards.

Travelling with suitcases requires slightly more planning, but luggage-storage services are available near the archaeological area. Another comfortable alternative is arranging a private transfer between Naples and Sorrento with a stop in Pompeii. In this case, your luggage can generally remain with the vehicle while you visit the ruins, depending on the service booked.

Allow three hours for the archaeological site. Pompeii is enormous, so trying to see every street and building is unrealistic during a short visit. Concentrate instead on the main areas and consider booking a guide if you want to better understand what you are seeing.

By organising Pompeii this way, you effectively add another major destination to your trip without sacrificing one of your three full days on the coast.

So, are three days really enough for Sorrento?

Yes — but three days should be considered the minimum rather than the maximum.

With good planning, three days allow you to experience three very different sides of the destination: the atmosphere and food of Sorrento, the glamour and natural beauty of Capri, and the extraordinary landscapes of Positano and Amalfi.

Four or five days would obviously give you more freedom. You could spend additional time at the beach, visit villages around the Sorrento Peninsula, hike or simply enjoy Sorrento without planning an excursion every morning.

But if your Italian itinerary only allows three days here, you do not need to choose between Sorrento, Capri and the Amalfi Coast.

The key is not filling every hour of your schedule. It is reducing the amount of time you waste moving between places.

Walk when you are in Sorrento. Combine Pompeii with your arrival or departure. And when exploring the coast, look towards the sea.

After all, this entire region developed around the water long before visitors began trying to navigate it by car. From Sorrento, Capri is an island on the horizon, Positano is around the coastline and Amalfi lies further along the same stretch of sea.

Seen from a boat, they stop feeling like separate destinations connected by complicated roads. They become different stops along the same journey.

And that is perhaps the most important secret to making three days in Sorrento feel much longer.

Related: The Best day trips from Lecce (Puglia)

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What to See in the 3rd Arrondissement of Paris.

Paris’s 3rd Arrondissement is a popular one among tourists. That was not always the case: the 3^rd and the 4^th arrondissements are known as Le Marais (“the swamp”) because that’s exactly what this area was before the 12^th century. Today it is a historic and trendy district full of restaurants, cafés, food markets, LGBTQ+ venues and art galleries. The 3rd is also known for LOTS of Museums, including the city’s history museum as well as Paris’s Picasso Museum. I’ll mention a few of the museum choices further below.

This post covers the highlights of Paris’s 3rd Arrondissement as well as a suggested itinerary on visiting the district.

The 3^rd Arrondissement In a few words: very touristy, young, trendy, narrow and convoluted streets, lots of restaurants and bars, momentous buildings and museums.

How to see the 3^rd Arrondissement: We started at Place de la République (metro station République) and ended at Musée des Arts et Métiers (metro station Arts et Métiers). Although the Arrondissement is not big and the number of “highlights” not as numerous as some other Arrondissements, you’ll find yourself browsing and maybe getting distracted by exhibits in stores, galleries or getting lost in food markets. You’ll also want to visit at least a couple of museums. Bottom line, plan on most of a day to explore the district properly.

Highlights along the way:

Place de la République

Le Carreau du Temple

Marché couvert des Enfants Rouges

Musée National Picasso

Place des Vosges

Musée Carnavalet

Musée des Archives Nationales

Jardin Anne Frank

Plus more as you’ll see below

Note: many of the highlights straddle the border of the 3^rd and 4^th and you may end up crossing the street and finding yourself in the Bibliothèque Historique De La Ville De Paris (Library Historical of Paris) or Paroisse Saint-Paul Saint-Louis. Both are technically in the 4^th but I’ll give them a mention below as well as covering them in more detail when I cover the 4^th Arrondissement.

The 3rd Arrondissement of Paris in detail

Place de la République

This large square is where three Arrondissements meet: the 3rd, 10th and 11^th. It has a metro station (République) which makes it a logical starting point to exploring the 3^rd.

In the center of the square is the Monument to the French Republic, the statue of Marianne. Marianne wasn’t a real person, she’s an emblem (since 1792) of the ideals of the French Republic: Liberty, Equality, and Fraternity*.

*Note: I previously wrote about the 1st Arrondissement and the Louvre. One of the most famous paintings in the Louvre is Eugène Delacroix’s painting of Marianne named “Liberty leading the people”. So Marianne is an important figure in French history.

Le Carreau du Temple

This mostly steel and glass building was built in 1863 and was a 2nd hand market of clothing and fabric. It was renovated and in 2014 re-opened as a hall where festivals, shows and fairs are held.

It’s not a major highlight on this route but worth seeing for what was an impressive architectural achievement at the time.

Marché Couvert des Enfants Rouges

The oldest covered market in Paris, dating to the seventeenth century and named for a former orphanage whose children wore red. It’s not fancy but it is always full of people coming to fill up on food, especially at lunch time. Lots of international cuisine and a buzzing vibe.

If you don’t mind the crowds (mostly tourists it seemed to us) a good place to come for lunch.

Musée National Picasso

Located in the former Hotel Sale, the Musée Picasso houses over 5,000 works by Picasso, detailing the artist’s life and influences as well as works by other artists, including Cézanne, Matisse, and Rousseau. There are drawings, sketchbooks, photographs, and notebooks from his personal archives. Each phase of his life is brought to life with letters, photographs, and sculptures.

The building itself is gorgeous with over 50 beautiful bronze chairs, tables, benches, and light fixtures by Diego Giacometti, who was commissioned for the opening of the museum.

Museum website. General Tickets cost 12 Euros.

Note: We intended to visit the museum separate to a visit of the 3rd as it needs between 90 minutes to 2 hours to visit. Unfortunately we ran out of time – we’ll come back on our next visit to Paris.

Place des Vosges

Place des Vosges, built between 1605 and 1612, is the oldest planned square in Paris and one of 5 Royal Squares in Paris*.

*The others are Place des Victoires (in the 2nd), Place Dauphine (in the 1st), Place Vendôme (in the 1st) and Place de la Concorde (in the 8th).

It’s a beautiful square built of uniform red brick houses over vaulted arcades. The well-to-do lived here and, until the French Revolution, it served as a meeting place for chats in the park. In the center of the park is a statue of Louis XIII. Once of the most famous residents of the square was Victor Hugo the French writer. Today his home is a museum (interesting if you are a Hugo fan).

Musée Carnavalet (the history museum of Paris)

It’s the oldest museum in Paris and is dedicated to the history of the city. An excellent museum that’s also free to visit.

The Carnavalet covers Paris’s history from different angles: archaeology, fine art, urban history and social anthropology. You’ll see old maps of Paris, store signs from the 18th and 19th centuries, Roman artefacts, models of the city, beautiful 18th-century rooms that used to be the residence of French nobles.

If you don’t have time, make sure to prioritize this museum. Firstly, it’s the only museum in Paris dedicated to the city’s history. Secondly, it’s situated in 2 mansions with gardens between them. A beautiful setting.

Note: after Musée Carnavalet, you might want to peak into a couple of places that are technically in the 4th arrondissement. Right across from the museum is Bibliothèque Historique De La Ville De Paris (Library Historical of Paris). We were attracted by the exhibit of photos of Paris in the 1970’s which were on display in the courtyard. Totally free and fascinating. Inside the library are some beautiful reading rooms. One block south of the Musée Carnavalet is the Paroisse Saint-Paul Saint-Louis, an impressive Jesuit church built in the early 1600’s.

Musée des Archives Nationales

Another free museum, this one housed in a huge mansion. The subject is pretty dry; documents and lots of it. Many of these documents have touched the hands of the most famous French personalities from history: Napoleon, Marie Antoinette, Louis XIV, Louis XVI, Henry IV and Cardinal Richelieu.

But even if the subject is a bit dry you can’t help but be wowed by the setting. The Hôtel de Soubise was built for the Prince and Princess of Soubise and was later, in 1808, declared a property of the state.

More Museums in the 3rd

Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature. Just around the corner from Musée des Archives Nationales. We didn’t visit but have heard about its excentric collection of stuffed animals and hunting weapons. If that’s your interest it gets good reviews on Tripadvisor.

MAHJ. The Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaïsme (Museum of Jewish Art and History). Le Marais (the 3rd and 4th Arrondissements) was historically the old Jewish quarter of Paris. This museum is the largest museum of Jewish art and history in France.

Musée des Arts et Métiers. It’s Paris’s Science and Technology museum. The museum presents seven different collections: Scientific Instruments, Materials, Energy, Mechanics, Construction, Communication and Transportation. It’s a well-reviewed museum and you’ll see cars, planes and the Foucault pendulum (named after a French physicist).

Jardin Anne Frank

This pretty green spot is hidden amidst the busy streets of the 3^rd. As mentioned above, this part of the city was the old Jewish quarter of Paris so when this park opened in 2007 they decided to name it after Anne Frank (it is located right around the corner from the Museum of Jewish Art and History). I’m not going to tell you that the park will change your life but you might find it interesting considering who it is dedicated to.

We finished our walk of the 3rd Arrondissement at Arts et Métiers metro. There you’ll find the Musée des Arts et Métiers (which I mentioned above). Close by you’ll see a pretty park (Square Émile-Chautemps) across from a theatre (La Gaîté Lyrique).

As I state off the top: the 3^rd isn’t big and isn’t filled with famous highlights…but there’s lots to see and you can easily find yourself spending the day in this Arrondissement.

A few more photos from around the 3rd

Summing up Paris’s 3rd Arrondissement

Absolute “must-sees” in the 3rd: Place des Vosges (Paris’s oldest Planned square), Musée Carnavalet (Paris’s history museum) and Musée des Archives Nationales (for the grandeur of the building). The Musée National Picasso if you’re a Picasso fan and Marché couvert des Enfants Rouges if you’re into food markets.

But the 3^rd is more than just highlights, it’s an area to “Flâner” as the French say (Flâner = to stroll, saunter, or wander aimlessly with no specific destination, simply to enjoy the surroundings and watch the world go by).

Related: What to See in the 2nd Arrondissement of Paris

Related: What to See in the 1st Arrondissement of Paris

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How to Choose Among the Best Egypt Tour Packages: A Complete Traveler’s Guide.

Choosing an Egypt itinerary is not simply a matter of deciding how many attractions can fit into a week.

Egypt Tour Packages can vary widely in route, pace, accommodation, guiding style, and inclusions. Some focus on Cairo and Upper Egypt, while others combine cultural sightseeing with Alexandria, the Red Sea, or longer stays in Luxor and Aswan.

A package may look impressive because it mentions many destinations. Yet a long destination list can hide rushed transfers, early departures, short visits, and repeated hotel changes.

The right itinerary should reflect how you want to experience Egypt—not merely how much of the map you can cover.

Decision One: What Kind of Egypt Trip Do You Want?

Begin with the purpose of the journey.

Most first-time itineraries combine several themes, but one usually matters more than the others. When comparing different Egypt tour packages, identifying your primary travel style early makes it much easier to select the right route.

A History-Led Journey

Travelers interested primarily in ancient Egypt should give the largest share of their time to Cairo, Luxor, and Aswan.

A suitable route may include:

• The Giza Pyramids and the Great Sphinx.
• Saqqara and Dahshur.
• Major museum collections.
• Karnak and Luxor Temples.
• The Valley of the Kings.
• Hatshepsut Temple.
• Edfu and Kom Ombo.
• Philae Temple.
• Abu Simbel.

In this type of program, an additional night in Luxor may provide more value than a brief beach extension.

A Balanced Cultural Vacation

Some travelers want the major historical sites without spending every day inside temples and museums.

A balanced itinerary may combine:

• Cairo
• A journey through Upper Egypt.
• Free time in Aswan.
• Several nights at the Red Sea.

This structure creates contrast between active sightseeing and relaxation.

A Leisure-Focused Trip

Travelers prioritizing resorts, diving, or family activities may use Cairo or Luxor as a shorter cultural introduction before continuing to Hurghada, Marsa Alam, or Sharm El Sheikh.

The key is to decide what the vacation should emphasize before comparing packages.

Decision Two: How Many Days Can You Use Comfortably?

Trip length should determine the route—not the other way around.

Four to Six Days

A short journey is most successful when it remains focused.

Good combinations may include:

• Cairo and Giza.
• Cairo and Alexandria.
• Cairo and Luxor by air.
• Luxor and Aswan.
• Cairo followed by a Red Sea stay.

Attempting to include Cairo, Luxor, Aswan, Alexandria, and the Red Sea in less than a week usually creates more transportation than meaningful exploration.

Seven to Ten Days

This range provides enough time for a classic first visit.

A well-paced route might combine Cairo with Luxor and Aswan, either through hotel stays or a multi-night river journey.

Depending on transfer times, travelers may also include Abu Simbel or a short beach extension.

Eleven Days or More

A longer vacation creates room for depth.

Additional time might be used for:

• Alexandria
• Dendera and Abydos.
• Abu Simbel.
• Extra nights in Luxor or Aswan.
• The Red Sea.
• Fayoum
• A desert experience.
• Unscheduled rest days.

Longer should mean more comfortable, not more rushed.

Decision Three: Does the Route Make Geographical Sense?

An itinerary can include excellent destinations and still be poorly designed.

Look at the order of the journey.

A logical route reduces repeated flights, unnecessary road journeys, and one-night hotel stays. For example, Cairo can connect naturally with Luxor by domestic flight, followed by travel south toward Aswan. A Red Sea stay can then be added according to the selected resort and transport plan.

When reviewing different Egypt Tour Packages, do not begin by comparing the number of attractions. First, trace the route from arrival to departure and identify every flight, road transfer, hotel change, and early-morning start. The strongest program is usually the one that connects destinations efficiently while protecting enough time for sightseeing and rest.

Questions worth asking include:

• Does the trip return to the same city unnecessarily?
• Are domestic flights scheduled at practical times?
• Are arrival days treated as full sightseeing days?
• How many hotels are used?
• Are long drives followed by major excursions?
• Is the final destination close to the departure airport?

A map often reveals weaknesses that are difficult to notice in a written itinerary.

Decision Four: What Daily Pace Suits You?

Two tours with identical routes can feel completely different.

One may begin early every morning, include several attractions before lunch, and move to a new hotel every second night. Another may visit fewer sites but allow more time at each one.

Neither approach is automatically wrong.

The important question is whether it suits the traveler.

A Faster Pace May Suit:

• Visitors with limited vacation time.
• Active travelers.
• Those comfortable with early departures.
• Travelers prioritizing the main landmarks.

A Slower Pace May Suit:

• Familes
• Senior travelers.
• Couples seeking a relaxed journey.
• Photographers
• Travelers with mobility considerations.
• Visitors who prefer time for local dining and independent exploration.

Look carefully at what happens between the major attractions. Meal breaks, transfer time, hotel check-ins, and rest periods are part of the vacation too.

Decision Five: Private, Small Group, or Luxury?

The way a tour is operated can influence the experience as much as the destinations.

Private Travel

A private itinerary generally provides greater control over the schedule.

It can be especially useful for:

• Families
• Couples
• Senior travelers.
• Visitors with specific historical interests.
• Travelers with dietary or mobility needs.
• Anyone who prefers a personal guide.

Private travel does not necessarily mean luxury. The same format can use moderate, deluxe, or premium accommodation.

Small-Group Travel

Small groups can reduce costs and create a more social atmosphere.

Before booking, confirm:

• Maximum group size.
• Guiding language.
• Whether transfers are shared.
• The amount of free time.
• Whether the group remains together throughout the trip.

Luxury Travel

A meaningful luxury package should offer more than an expensive hotel.

Look for practical upgrades such as:

• Better room categories.
• Well-located properties.
• Premium river accommodation.
• Private guiding.
• Refined dining.
• Flexible transportation.
• Personalized assistance.
• Smoother arrival and departure services.

The value of luxury lies in comfort, privacy, and service—not simply the label used in the itinerary.

Decision Six: What Is Actually Included?

A starting price is useful only when the inclusions are clear.

Before comparing quotations, confirm whether each package covers:

• Airport assistance.
• Hotel accommodation.
• Breakfast and other meals.
• Domestic flights.
• Train tickets.
• Private or shared vehicles.
• Egyptologist guides.
• Entrance fees.
• River accommodation.
• Transfers between cities.
• Taxes and service charges.
• Bottled water.
• Optional excursions.
• Gratuities

Pay attention to expressions such as:

• “From price.”
• “Selected hotel.”
• “Similar vessel.”
• “Optional visit.”
• “Shared excursion.”
• “Subject to availability.”

These terms are common, but they should be explained before the traveler pays a deposit.

A lower quotation may exclude flights, entrance tickets, or transfers. A higher one may already cover the services needed to complete the trip comfortably.

Test the Package Against a Real Travel Day

Do not review only the destination headings.

Choose one of the busiest days and examine it closely.

Imagine the schedule includes:

• Hotel checkout.
• Airport transfer.
• Domestic flight.
• Arrival assistance.
• Lunch
• Two archaeological sites.
• Hotel check-in.

Individually, each activity may sound reasonable. Together, they may create an exhausting day.

A realistic program should account for:

• Airport procedures.
• Traffic
• Attraction opening hours.
• Meal breaks.
• Walking distances.
• Heat
• Unexpected delays.
• Time to rest.

The more detailed the daily description, the easier it is to judge whether the itinerary works in practice.

Check the Accommodation, Not Just the Star Rating

Hotel quality can vary within the same category.

Request the names of the proposed properties and review:

• Location
• Room category.
• Meal plan.
• Recent photographs.
• Distance from attractions.
• Elevator access.
• Family-room availability.
• Transfer time to airports or stations.

A centrally located property can reduce daily driving and provide more free time, even when its star rating is lower than a hotel outside the main sightseeing area.

For river accommodation, also check:

• Vessel name.
• Cabin position.
• Window or balcony type.
• Passenger capacity.
• Facilities
• Excursion arrangements.
• Included meals.

Why Direct Local Coordination Matters

Planning a multi-destination journey through Egypt requires more than selecting hotels and attractions. Domestic flights, private transfers, Nile sailing schedules, entrance times, guides, accommodation, and regional connections all need to work together without creating unnecessary delays or repeated arrangements.

Trips in Egypt provides direct, locally managed planning for private and fully customized journeys across the country. Travelers work with an Egypt-based team that combines local expertise, 5-star travel options, personalized itinerary design, and 24/7 support throughout the journey.

This becomes especially valuable when an itinerary includes Cairo, Luxor, Aswan, Abu Simbel, the Nile Valley, desert destinations, and the Red Sea. If a flight, sailing date, hotel stay, or transfer changes, the wider route can be adjusted accordingly.

Direct local coordination can also reduce unnecessary middleman markups while keeping transportation, accommodation, sightseeing, and support connected within one seamless travel experience.

Twelve Questions to Ask Before Paying

Before confirming the tour, ask:

1. Is the itinerary private or shared?
2. What are the exact hotel names?
3. Which room categories are included?
4. Are domestic flights included?
5. Are attraction tickets covered?
6. Which meals are provided?
7. Is the river vessel named?
8. Is Abu Simbel included or optional?
9. How many travelers share the guide?
10. Can the itinerary be adjusted?
11. What are the payment and cancellation terms?
12. Who provides assistance during the trip?

Clear answers suggest that the operator understands the itinerary in detail.

A Strong Package Should Solve Problems Before They Appear

The purpose of a well-designed package is not to place the greatest possible number of destinations into the schedule.

It should connect the right destinations in a logical order, limit unnecessary transfers, match the traveler’s preferred pace, and explain all major costs clearly.

When comparing options, look beyond the headline price and attraction list. Study the route, timing, accommodation, guiding format, inclusions, and support available throughout the journey.

The right package should make Egypt feel accessible and rewarding—not like a race between airports, hotels, and monuments.

Related: How I research (and choose) a travel destination

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Why Knaresborough is a great day trip from York.

Knaresborough is a great day trip from York, it’s actually my very favorite day trip from York. Why? 1) It is beautiful and scenic, 2) there’s lots of nature and you have the option of some nice walks, 3) It is easy to get there, in fact the train will get you there in about 25 minutes.

In this post I’ll tell you everything you need to know about visiting Knaresborough including what to see and do. Depending on what kind of traveller you are, you might even want to consider making Knaresborough (instead of York) a base in the area. More on that below.

A Brief History of Knaresborough

Knaresborough started simply as a fortress on the rock, its location on a rocky bluff with impressive views of the gorge of the River Nidd (Origins of the name: “knarre” meaning rocky outcrop in Anglo-Saxon, and “burgh” meaning fortress). In time, a settlement grew around the castle.

The most famous event in Knaresborough history happened in 1170. Hugh de Morville (owner of Knaresborough castle at the time) and 3 other knights assassinated Thomas Becket who was the Archbishop of Canterbury. They in fact assassinated him in Canterbury Cathedral. Why? The English king at the time was Henry II and he was feuding with Becket. The 4 assassins, who had previously fought for the king, thought they were doing it under his orders.

After their crime, the 4 ran back to Knaresborough and barricaded themselves in the castle for a year. Long story short, they would be excommunicated by the Pope and ordered to fight for the Knights Templar for a period of 14 years.

Most famous Knaresborough people:

Mother Shipton (Ursula Southeil, c. 1488–1561): England’s most prophetess (described as a hideously ugly witch), reportedly born in a cave by the River Nidd. The Mother Shipton cave, a tourist attraction know for mineral-rich water that petrifies objects, is named after her and is – according to legend – where she was born.

“Blind Jack Metcalf” (1717–1810): John Metcalf lost his sight as a child but became a famous trader and a road and bridge builder. He became a builder after the age of 50 and managed to build hundreds of miles of road throughout Northern England.

St Robert of Knaresborough: A 12th-century hermit and holy man who lived in a cave along the River Nidd and became renowned for his piety and healing gifts. Pilgrims visited him, including King John in 1216. After his death, he became one of the best-known saints in Europe.

What to See and Do in Knaresborough

Go to Knaresborough Castle

There’s really not a lot to the castle these days, it is mostly a ruin sitting on that high bluff. But the location is spectacular, with incredible views of the gorge, River Nidd and the viaduct running over it (which is where the train in/out of town runs).

What to see at the Castle? Enjoy the various views of the scenery. It really is beautiful. You can pay £4.50 to visit the castle and the Courtyard museum which are on the grounds. Our honest opinion is that it is not worth it. The Castle is mostly a ruin and the museum is just ok (unless you want to read more about the town and some of the famous personalities I’ve mentioned above). I should mention that the man in charge of the museum is a beautiful human being with lots of information and advice. It’s nice meeting people so dedicated to their work.

Walk around Knaresborough town center

It’s not big but you should walk around the town center before going down to the river. The prettiest spot is Market Square which has some restaurants, cafés and quaint stores. They have a Subway if looking for a quick and inexpensive bite.

Every Wednesday there is a market in the square so if you want to see what Knaresborough is like when it’s happening, try to come on a Wednesday.

Bebra Gardens

Come back to the castle grounds. Behind the Courtyard museum (off to the right of the entrance to the museum) you’ll see a path going down. Follow it down, it’ll lead to the Bebra Gardens which is lush with trees, plants and even a community swimming pool. Just by the swimming pool you’ll find another path that will lead you down to the river.

Walks along the river

If you’ve come down to the river from the castle, you have two directions to go: 1) right, taking you on a beautiful scenic walk towards the viaduct, 2) left if you have a lot of time and want a longish walk that will take you to Sir Robert’s cave. I’ll cover the two below.

1.Along the river to the Viaduct

After the castle, it’s the most popular place to walk in Knaresborough. The road (Waterside) has restaurants, cafés, ice cream stalls and souvenir stores. It’s very pretty and lively and you can walk up to and under the viaduct. There you’ll see a place where you can rent canoes and go paddling along the river. It’s very, very pretty. It’s not long though…it’ll take you about 10 minutes before the road goes up to a small bridge.

Across the bridge is the Mother Shipton Cave tourist attraction. Some may find it interesting but it caters mostly to families honestly and at £16/pp during peak season it’s expensive. We skipped it.

But you should go on the little bridge for the views of the river below and the viaduct in the distance.

2. Along the river to Sir Robert’s cave

I mentioned up above the friendly custodian at the Castle. He recommended the walk along the river to the left, telling us about the cliffs and beautiful cottages along the way.

It was all that and more. The walk is very peaceful and you get glimpses of the river along the way. If you continue further you’ll get to Sir Robert’s cave which is down a dirt path to the river. There’s not much to it but as I mentioned in the “brief history” section, there is history here. You’ll find signs explaining the story of Sir Robert. But really, the walk is more about scenery and being out in nature.

Getting to Sir Robert’s cave takes about 30 minutes from the Viaduct, so about 1 hour return trip from the center.

A few other things

Getting to the train station: When ready to leave Knaresborough, walk up pretty “Water Bag Bank” from Waterside road under the viaduct. The train station is just 5 minutes up from the hubbub of the river.

Have a beer at Knaresborough train station. It’s a beautiful little train station. You’ll see a store on the platform selling paintings and things as well as a bar. You actually have seating on the platform where you can have a beer while waiting for your train to come. There’s signage indicating when the next train comes so you can enjoy your beer without stress. That’s what I did.

The views over the Viaduct: If you are continuing on in the direction of Leeds (or Harrogate which is 2 stops – about 10 minutes – from Knaresborough), look out for the incredible views you get as you pull out of the station. The train goes over the Viaduct so you’ll get great views of the town and river below. One of the prettiest views you’ll ever see.

Practical Information

Trains between York and Knaresborough run every 30 minutes and it takes about 25 minutes. See the London North Eastern Railway (LNER) website. It cost us £14.50 (£7.25 each) for return tickets York – Knaresborough.

How long does it take to see Knaresborough? Honestly, you can see everything in 2 hours if it’s just about seeing the highlights and taking a few photos. But if you want to walk around, have an ice cream or beer at the river or go for the long walk I described up top, you could stay 4 – 5 hours. It’s a charming place and if you’re coming from York (which was jampacked with tourists. Turned us off to  the place to be honest), then you might really enjoy the quaintness of Knaresborough.

Knaresborough as a place to base yourself. It was our guide Mark (with who we did the tour of the Yorkshire dales) who said it: if looking for a cheaper, quieter alternative to York, Knaresborough might be the place for you for a few days. He’s absolutely right. As mentioned, York is 25 minutes away by train, Harrogate about 10 minutes in the other direction. So Knaresborough could be a great base if looking for something a bit different.

Bottom line? Knaresborough makes for a great place to visit.

Related: A Tour of the Yorkshire Dales from York

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A Tour of the Yorkshire Dales from York.

Why visit the Yorkshire Dales? It is considered the most typical North English national park, an area of rolling green hills, stone walls, plenty of sheep and cattle, a castle and many quaint villages (among them filming locations for the series “All Creatures Great and Small”). The area is also known for artisanal produce: our tour featured the oldest sweet shop in England, an incredible pie shop, and the most famous cheese creamery in the country.

We didn’t have a car in England so we took a tour with Best of Britain, they specialize in the Yorkshire Dales.

All about our tour of the Yorkshire Dales below.

Starting off

The meeting point was at 8:50 am at the Dean Court Hotel, steps from the York Minster. There were 9 of us on the tour plus our guide/driver Mark, a colourful and interesting character who (as we would find out) was full of fun facts and information.

Did you know that the county of York has its own professional cycling competition? In 2014 the Tour de France came to the region and did 2 of its 21 stages here. Locals were so enthralled by it that they decided to start their own cycling competition. What to call it? It took them 2 months to come up with the perfect name…the Tour de Yorkshire. You might spot brightly painted yellow or blue bikes off the side of the road that indicate locations of previous race routes of the Tour de Yorkshire.

We drove Northwest from York, passing the town of Knaresborough. We had visited Knaresborough by ourselves 2 days previous and Mark told us what we previously knew: that it is a wonderful and scenic town that’s still little known to visitors. A quiet and cheaper base in the region than York (truth be told, there are just too many people visiting York. It can be overwhelming).

Pateley Bridge

The small town of Pateley Bridge was our first stop…and last stop before we entered the boundaries of the Yorkshire Dales National Park. Why stop here? Firstly, it has the oldest sweet shop in England (it’s literally called “The Oldest Sweet Shop in England”), a bakery with Incredible looking pies (Kendall Farm Butchers) and Cocoa Joe’s, known for “the best hot chocolate you’ve ever tasted”.

The other reason to stop in Pateley Bridge was to use the public bathrooms next to the parking. As Mark would say over and over again on the tour “Better to go when you can and not when you need”.

Entering the Yorkshire Dales National Park

Leaving Pateley Bridge, the countryside became increasingly desolate and hilly. We soon passed a marker indicating that we had entered the boundaries of the Yorkshire Dales National Park. The word “Dale” originates from the Old Norse word “dalr,” meaning valley, describing the region’s steep-sided glacial river valleys. The geography here was mostly shaped by glacial activity around 80,000 years ago. They created the U-Shaped Valleys, drumlins (smooth, rounded hills), gorges as well as the cave systems that exist under the ground (the Yorkshire Dales National Park is Britain’s premier caving and karst area, featuring over 2,500 known caves—including the UK’s longest cave network).

Interesting fact that would shock most people: 95% of the land in the Yorkshire Dales National Park is privately owned. You’ll see farms, their lands separated by stone walls: it is estimated that the park had about 5,000 miles (8,000 kilometers) of dry-stone walls, all put together naturally without mortar (most “wallers” are professional and certified with the Dry Stone Walling Association). You’ll also see lots of little towns, all characterized by stone housing.

I wrote above that most people would be shocked to hear that most of the land in the national park is privately owned. That’s because usually (especially in North America) National Parks are government property. You usually won’t see any buildings unless it’s a Park information center or lodge. But it doesn’t work that way in the UK, the National Park system here was established in the 1950’s when there were already people living in what are now National parks. As Mark told us, “National Parks are not owned by the government, they’re managed by the government”. That means there are limits on what can be built here including what businesses you’ll find. You won’t see a Starbucks or McDonalds, any establishments you’ll see within a National Park are old mom-and-pop stores and restaurants. And there’s limits to additions to houses, construction has to be consistent with traditional methods. So an old barn has to look like an old barn…even if you have a modern 10-foot TV inside the barn.

Grassington

We came up on Grassington, what looked like a pretty little town. Even early on a weekday it was busy with tourists. Why? It is a filming location for “All Creatures Great and Small”. Mark was pointing out buildings that had starring roles in the series when he realized that nobody really cared – the participants in the bus were all from other countries (France, Sri Lanka, Germany, Canada, Chile, US) and most of us had never heard of “All Creatures Great and Small”.

I think Grassington was meant to be a stop but judging that it would be wasted on us, Mark did a little loop with the van and we were soon on the road out of town.

Kettlewell

A pretty little town that gets few visitors except for the specific week we were visiting. Why? The annual Kettlewell Scarecrow Festival (always held in August). They even have a website.

The Scarecrow festival aside, it is a scenic town with a stream running through it and high ridge dominating the view.

The Yorkshire Peaks

Continuing on, we did a gradual ascent into the hills, the geography becoming desolate and the views opening up as far as the eye could see. This area of the Yorkshires is the home of the 3 Yorkshire Peaks: Whernside (736m), Ingleborough (723m), and Pen-y-ghent (694m). A popular hike is the 24-mile hike that takes in the 3 peaks (it’ll take you between 10 and 12 hours). More on walking the Yorkshire Three Peaks.

Whether hiking or not, the views here are very impressive.

Hawes

Hawes is where we stopped for our lunch break. The town is best known for the Wensleydale Creamery, England’s most famous cheese creamery. You can stop here to sample various cheeses like their traditional Wensleydale, the Wensleydale & Cranberries and their Wensleydale Mango and Ginger cheese (quite nice!). Their restaurant (Calvert) is popular and has a nice garden area.

But Wenslesdale Creamery was full of tourists. Too busy for us. After doing the cheese tasting, we decided to walk into town (Hawes town center is 5 minutes away). It’s pretty with a main street comprising of a hotel, bank, a Spar and a church. We had lunch at quaint Caffè Curva which has some great vegan/vegetarian options.

More scenery and small towns

We left Hawes, the van meandering along small, winding roads. The scenery in this part of the Dales is beautiful, the colours changing as you round every corner.

Something interesting Mark told us: the Yorkshire Dales is an official International Dark Sky Reserve. It is in fact the largest dark sky reserve in the UK with some of the darkest skies and lowest light pollution in the United Kingdom. That makes the Dales one of the best places anywhere to come for stargazing. More about that here.

Castle Bolton

Castle Bolton was our last stop of the day. It was built between 1378 and 1399 by Richard, 1st Baron Scrope of Bolton and has stayed – over the last 600 years – in the Scrope family. Many castles in England have stayed in private hands through time.

The castle is most famous as being where Mary, Queen of Scots was held prisoner for 6 months in 1568. Her imprisonment didn’t sound too harsh; she had a retinue of 51 “gentlemen, servants and ladies-in-waiting” and was allowed to wander the lands around the castle and even go hunting.

Being on a tour, we didn’t have time to visit the Castle (which I’m told requires at least 2 hours to do properly). But we were able to wander the grounds, see the boars (feeding behind a fence), walk through a cafeteria (which might have been a dining hall), and use the bathrooms. As Mark would repeat yet again, “Better to go when you can and not when you need”.

Ending the Tour

From Castle Bolton, we navigated some roads, suddenly seeing stop signs and street lights. Mark stated the obvious “We are now outside the national park”. It makes you aware of how special national parks are; places to see peaceful landscapes, animals grazing…without all the ugliness of human development.

From Castle Bolton it was a 90 minute drive back to York (during which most of us slept). Back under the shadows of York’s Minster, we said our goodbyes. It was the end of an enjoyable day of touring the Yorkshire Dales.

Many thanks to Mark – a great tour guide – and Best of Britain.

Related: A Visit to North Berwick (and Tantallon Castle)

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A Visit to North Berwick and Tantallon Castle.

Just 35 minutes away by train, North Berwick is one of the best day trips from Edinburgh.

Besides being a very pretty little town with some interesting highlights, it is home to Tantallon Castle, a unique castle situated in a location overlooking the Firth of Forth (an estuary that’s always been strategically important).

All about North Berwick and Tantallon Castle in this post.

Getting to North Berwick from Edinburgh: There’s an hourly train (usually leaves about 40 minutes past the hour) from Edinburgh to North Berwick. Check the Scot Rail website. It takes about 35 minutes, so it usually arrives around 15 minutes past the hour.

Tantallon Castle

Tantallon Castle is absolutely worth a visit. Since it has scheduled hours (9:30 – 4:15 every day), we made it our first stop when visiting North Berwick.

How to get here North Berwick:  At the train station in North Berwick, walk about 2 minutes to the main road and take the 120 bus. That will take you directly to Tantallon Castle. The only problem – the bus is hourly and usually leaves around 8 minutes past the hour. So if everything is on schedule (see what I say above about the train schedule), you’ll miss that bus by about 7 minutes when arriving in North Berwick. TIP: check the bus route on Google Maps, it updates if the bus is running late. In our case, the bus was 10 minutes behind schedule so our timing was perfect.  The bus took about 20 minutes to get us to the castle.

The history of Tantallon Castle

Built in the mid-14^th century, Tantallon Castle is unique – it has one wall that defends castle inhabitants from attacks from the interior. The other three sides are naturally defended by high sea cliffs. It is the last medieval curtain wall castle to be constructed in Scotland.

The Castle was built by the powerful Scottish House of Douglas.

About the Douglas family…if you’ve seen movies about Scottish Independence (we recently watched Outlaw King), Sir James Douglas (1286 – 1330) was a key figure fighting with Robert the Bruce, the king of Scotland. Known the “Black Douglas” he was Bruce’s most trusted friend, chief military commander, and a master of guerrilla warfare during the Scottish Wars of Independence. He was a commander at the decisive Battle of Bannockburn in 1314.

In 1389 the House of Douglas split and Tantallon Castle passed to the Red Douglases (the Earls of Angus). The other part of the house, the Black Douglases, based themselves in Douglas Castle in Lanarkshire. The allegiances of both sides of the house also split: while the Black Douglases always fought for Scottish independence, the Red Douglases would align themselves with English kings.

Alignment with English kings led to conflict several times. The first was in 1491. After the 3^rd Earl of Angus (as the Red Douglases were known) struck a deal with Henry VII of England, Tantallon Castle was invaded by Scottish troops (under the orders of Scottish King James IV). The Red Douglases conceded and Tantallon castle escaped with little damage.

In 1528 there was another siege of Tantallon castle, this time by James V. Again, the Red Douglases had colluded with the English, taking James V as a child. Years later at 16 years of age, James V wanted revenge and attacked the castle. Long story short, Tantallon was retained as a Royal fortress until James V’s death in 1542. It then fell back into the hands of the Earls of Angus.

During the “Rough Wooing” of Henry VIII (also known as the 8 years war between England and Scotland. 1543 – 1551) Tantallon Castle was bypassed by the English because of its historic allegiance. The Earl of Angus ended up being imprisoned by the Scottish and he finally changed sides. In 1548, Tantallon Castle fired on English ships during an engagement in the Firth of Forth.

Mary Queen of Scots visited Tantallon Castle in 1566. In 1592 her son James VI took possession of the castle.

The last major incidence at Tantallon Castle came in 1651 during the Third English Civil War (also known as The Anglo-Scottish war) when the English under Oliver Cromwell invaded Scotland. It led to 12 days of bombardment of the castle and the surrender of the Scottish. It left Tantallon Castle in ruins and in the state in which you see it today.

We spent about an hour at the castle. More than the castle itself (mostly ruins), it is its location on this promontory that is so impressive. We enjoyed walking the walls and the views over both the sea (and Bass rock which I’ll cover later) and inland. It feels like you’ve gone back in time.

North Berwick (and what to See)

We took the bus back into town. Make sure to time your exit from the castle to meet the 120 which only passes hourly. It’ll take about 10 minutes to get from the castle to the bus stop (which stops on the other side of the road to get back into town).

It took about 15 minutes to get back into the center of North Berwick. Unfortunately the weather had turned a bit by the time we got back.

Bass Rock

The white rock I have a bit further up is Bass Rock. A volcanic rock, it was the site of a castle which was later a prison (the Scottish version of Alcatraz). There’s lighthouse there and the remains of a chapel. But what Bass rock is known for these days is the largest colony of northern gannets in the world. The rock also has puffins.

Note: from a distance, Bass rock looks white. Why is that? It’s bird poop from all the birds. Underneath it all, the rock is grey and brown.

You can take boat trips to see all the birds from The Scottish Seabird Center (below).

The Scottish Seabird Center

The Center organizes trips out to Bass Island for those that want to see the northern gannets and puffins up close.

But if you don’t want to commit to that, the Seabird Center is known for its live cameras: inside you’ll see high-quality live cameras on all the different islands off North Berwick’s coast. So you’ll see the birds on Bass Island and possibly seals on the Isle of May.

It’s a marine conservation and education charity, so visiting is for a good cause. The Scottish Seabird Center website.

Around the Scottish Seabird Center

Around the Center is a beach, a church in ruins and some monuments. It is a picturesque area that’s very popular with visitors. But there’s more if you look further…beyond the harbour are rocks heading out into the water. A path with stairs runs along it and you get nice views of the coast and islands.

Walk around the Old Town

After walking around the jut of land around the Seabird Center, explore the town. It’s not big but its pretty.

If coming from the Seabird Center, go up Victoria Road. A block up it becomes Quality street: there are some nice restaurants, a very popular ice cream store (Alandas Gelato) and a few pretty monuments and lighthouses (“toy” lighthouses are a big thing in North Berwick. I’ll get to that). We had lunch at the Ship Inn, they have excellent Fish & Chips.

From there, walk along High Street to appreciate how pretty North Berwick is. It’s small, you’ll probably spend no more than 15 minutes walking around the streets.

“Toy” Lighthouses

I mentioned lighthouses above. You’ll see these beautiful toy lighthouses all over town. A few photos below. There’s a website if you want to know more, including a map you can download of the 15 lighthouses in town (I think we came across 10).

West Bay Beach

The highlights of High street peter out and you can walk a block back to the coast. Here you’ll see West bay beach which has more pretty views and there’s a nice park-like area to walk around (where you’ll also see the Tantallon golf course).

More things to see in North Berwick

The Law is a hill just outside town, a volcanic hill that you can climb for great views. It’s a very strange hill and, coming to North Berwick on the train, you can see it from miles away long before you arrive.

I had hoped to hike it but ran out of time. I’m told that it takes about 30 minutes to get to the summit from North Berwick town center. Views are great.

Castles. I’ve mentioned Tantallon Castle above. But there’s another castle called Dirleton Castle which gets good reviews and you can visit by bus – bus #124 from the train station gets you there in 15 minutes. So if you are into castles, you can easily visit two castles while in North Berwick.

National Museum of Flight. It’s 15 minutes from the center of North Berwick by car. But this museum is worth it, it gets great reviews. It even has a retired Concorde. I would have loved to see it. The website.

Bottom line is that there’s lots to see in North Berwick and it makes a fantastic day trip from Edinburgh. 

Related: Edinburgh: a hike up to Arthur’s Seat

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