Needle Point Rugs

Cautions:

1. Always inspect and pretest. Document and photograph. Note all pre-existing damage including:
2. Check the foundation for splits or discoloration.
3. Look to see if the rug lays flat. Look for buckling.
4. Note if the rug is out of square.
5. Look for yarn snags or runs. Quote repairs.
6. Check for loose or weak sewn-on fringe. Quote repairs.
7. Check for dry rot in the foundation.
8. Look for stencil ink.
9. Have a release of liability signed before cleaning.
10. Test for bleeding and crocking.

Cleaning Procedures:

1. Dust rug. Air dust or use a vacuum only.
2. Wet out rug with cool, clear water. If the rug fails the crocking test, wet out with diluted AntiDye, If it fails the bleeding test, wet out with diluted Dye Release solution.
3. Apply diluted LST over entire face pile of rug. Do not apply to backing.
4. Work in with hand brush or use shampooer or other tool if the rug can take it. Face pile and fringe only, not on backing.
5. Rinse rug with cool, clear water front and back, until water runs clear.
6. Roll, extract or centrifuge to remove excess water. Do not use rug squeegee,
7. If using flat bed washer, run with brushes up or on a very light setting.
8. Apply diluted Rug Soure solution to the backing only.
9. If shrinkage is a concern, tack-out during drying.
10. Dry rug face down on cotton towels or quilts.
11. Use air movers to speed drying.
12. Groom pile and fringes.

Navajo Rugs

CAUTIONS:

1. Always inspect and pretest. Document and photograph. Note all pre-existing damage.
2. Plan on color bleeding. Look for pre-existing color migration. Test all colors for crocking
   and bleeding. Look and test for ink on dark colors and side cords. Quote for DyeFix.
3. Inspected for damage. Quote for repairs.
4. Have release of liability form signed.
5. Work quickly. Wash Navajo, rugs, fast and efficiently.

Cleaning Procedures:

1. Dust rug. Air dust or vacuum only.
2. Treat entire rug, front and back with DyeFix for Wool solution. Work in with hand brush
   give at least 10 minute dwell time, more if possible. Do not apply Dyefix if there is
   pre-existing color migration.
3. Treat entire rug, front and back, with AntiDye solution. Apply heavily. Work in with hand
   brush.
4. Rinse to remove any loose dyes, rinse lightly and quickly, unless color is moving off rug.
   Reapply AntiDye solution if colors are migrating and continue to rinse.
5. Apply Navajo Rug Cleaner solution to entire rug, front and back. Work in with hand brush.
6. Rinse both sides. No squeegees. Rinse until water runs clear, if color still migrates, apply
   more AntiDye solution and rinse again. Repeat if necessary.
7. Extract, ring out, roll, or centrifuge to remove excess water. If using centrifuge, make sure
   to completely cover with absorbent cotton towels or quilts to prevent dye transfer
   (tattooing) onto rug.
8. Speed dry. Because dyes can possibly migrate during drying, flat dry on cotton towels, or
   quilts. Place on top of two or more layers of cotton material, add two or more layers of cotton material on top of rug, with air flow (without blowing off the cotton material). Use heat,
   dehumidification, or other method to speed drying.

MOROCCAN RUGS

Cautions:

1. Always inspect and pre-test. Document and photograph. Note all pre-existing damage.
2. Moroccan rugs are often chemically washed with strong, destructive chemicals, like
chlorine bleach, among other things. Test pH to see if damaged by sodium hydroxide
or other alkaline chemicals. Quote for pH balancing before washing. Test for redox
imbalance. Use an oxidation reduction potential (ORP) meter to determine if bleach
(oxidation) has been used and that residues remain in the fibers. These need to be
neutralized. Quote for redox balancing before washing.
3. Moroccan rugs often bleed dyes. Look for pre-existing color migration. Test all colors for
crocking and bleeding. Consider setting dyes. Charge accordingly.
4. Inspect for damage. Quote for repairs before washing.
5. Do Not set expectations to be 100% perfection, only an improvement.
6. Have a release of liability signed before washing.
7. Work quickly. Wash Moroccan rugs fast and efficiently.

Cleaning procedures:

1. Dust rug.
2. Treat entire rug, front and back with AntiDye solution. Apply heavily. Work in with hand
brush or other tool if the construction can take it.
3. Rinse to remove any loose dyes. Rinse lightly and quickly, unless color is migrating. Reapply
AntiDye solution if colors are moving, and continue to rinse.
4. Apply Navajo Rug Cleaner solution to entire rug, front and back. Work in with hand brush
or other tool.
5. Rinse both sides with cold, clear water until it runs clear. If color is still migrates, apply more
AntiDye solution and rinse again. Repeat if necessary.
6. Squeegee, roll, wring out extract or centrifuge to remove excess water. If using centrifuge,
make sure to completely cover with absorbent towels, or quilts to prevent dye transfer
(tattooing) onto rug, during spinning.
7. Speed dry. Because dyes can possibly migrate during drying, flat dry on cotton towels or
quilts. Place on top of two or more layers of cotton material, and add two more layers
of material on top of rug, with airflow (without blowing off the cotton material). Use
heat, dehumidification or other method to speed dry.
8. Repair wool fiber damage with Wool Rug Revitalize if customer is okay with the additional
cost. Balance the pH of the wool to as close to pH 5.5 as reasonable. Balance the
redox to as close to 500 millivolts as reasonable to repair the wool.

Tapestry Cleaning

Cautions:

1. Always inspect and pre-test. Document and photograph. Note all pre-existing damage.
2. Tapestry is a form of weft faced weaving. Tapestries are relatively fragile, difficult to make
and often bleed color. This is why solvent dry cleaning is recommended.
3. Structural integrity is often weak.
4. Look for sunlight, or ultraviolet light damage. Ask about sunlight exposure.
5. Test for dry solvent damage. Check for ink or color repairs.
6. Have a release of liability signed before cleaning.
Cleaning procedures:
1. Air dust or vacuum with suction only.
2. Spray tapestry with Fringe Pre Treatment (Sublime). Working with towels, pads,
bonnets or soft brush. Allow a 3 to 5 minute dwell time.
3. Spray tapestry with Dry Side Cleaner, work in. Allow a 3 to 5 minute dwell time.
4. Extract with a solvent proof, dry cleaning machine. Exhaust the vapors to the outdoors. Or
extract by wiping with cotton towels, pads, or bonnets.
5. Flat dry. Absolutely NO heat or open flame, for fire safety reasons.

Alternative Methods:

Fluorosolve method (For lighter soils).
1. Air dust or vacuum with suction only.
2. Spray tapestry with Fluorosolve. Work in with towels, pads, bonnets or soft brush.
3. Extract soils with cotton towels, pads or bonnets by wiping and blotting.
4. Flat dry. Do not use heat or expose to open flames for fire safety reasons.
5. Make sure to charge for fiber protection.
Dry – wet – dry method (good for heavier soils).
1. Air dust or vacuum with suction only.
2. Spray tapestry with Dry Side Cleaner. Work in with cotton towels, pads or bonnets. Allow a
3 to 5 minute dwell time.
3. Mix 8 ounces of LST with cool water and whip up into a foam. Apply foam only with a
towel, lightly to the tapestry surface only. Wipe and blot all foam and soils.
4. Spray tapestry with Dry Side Cleaner again. Work work in with cotton towels, pads or
bonnets. Extract soils and moisture with by wiping or blotting with dry cotton
towels, pads or bonnets.
5. Speed dry. Flat dry. Do not use heat or expose to open flames. Use extra air flow to speed
drying time.

SURFACE CLEANING

Some rugs cannot survive a full immersion wash. Some rugs are not very soiled. Some rugs
are cleaned on a regular maintenance schedule. Shrinkage can be an issue with some rugs.
Stencil ink can become a problem with another one. So, sometimes surface cleaning is the
wise choice. What are some ways to surface clean a rug?

Low moisture surface cleaning

We want to control moisture, so that water does not get us into troublesome difficulty. We do
not want to get the backing wet, we would like to avoid rinsing with water. First, complete a
thorough inspection of the rug(s), see the tutorial “Hand Knotted Wool Rugs” for a good list
of considerations. Fill out a pre-inspection form.
LST is a great choice for low moisture cleaning as it will keep you out of trouble and it cleans
great. And most important, it does not leave a soil-attracting residue behind so rinsing is not
required. The pH is just right for wool fibers.

After a complete inspection :

1. Dust rug.
2. Lightly spray rug pile with Fringe PreTreatment (Sublime), if oily soil is present.
3. Lightly spray face pile of rug with diluted (8 ounces per gallon of water) LST solution. Do
not over wet.
4. Work in LST with hand brush.
5. Lightly wet out a pad or bonnet with LST solution to provide lubrication and prevent
excessive agitation to the pile of the rug. Spin the pad or bonnet with a rotary floor
machine. Flip over pad or bonnet when soiled and replace with a clean pad or bonnet,
when both sides are soiled.
6. Groom face pile with pile lay.
7. Allow rug to dry completely. Then dry vacuum or air dust.
8. Groom pile, and comb out fridges.

Some rugs can survive, more moisture, but still do not require full immersion washing. A
surface cleaning is all that is needed.

Extraction method

After a complete inspection :

1. Dust rug.
2. Lightly spray rug face, with Fringe PreTreatment (Sublime) if oily soil is present.
3. Apply LST solution (8 ounces per gallon of water) with sprayer, rain can or shampooer tank.
Wet out face pile, but not backing.
4. Work in with hand brush, shampooer, or other tool.
5. A. Use wet & dry, vacuum or carpet extractor to vacuum only extract soil and LST solution
from rug. Use slow and deliberate overlapping (50%) passes, to remove as much
moisture as reasonably possible.
B. If the backing is preshrunk, synthetic or otherwise able to take more moisture use
carpet extractor to rinse and vacuum away soils & moisture. Turn down pressure if
possible and use low moisture wand if available. Use only one or two wet passes. Use
three or four vacuum only passes. Just use clean, clear water with no extra chemicals,
let the LST do the work.
6. Speed dry with fans.
7. Groom pile.
8. Allow rug to dry completely. Then dry vacuum or air dust.
9. Groom pile and comb out fringes.

No equipment method

After a complete inspection :

1. Dust rug.
2. Lightly spray rug face, with Fringe PreTreatment (Sublime) if oily soil is present.
Page 2 of 3
3. Lightly spray face pile with diluted (8 ounces per gallon of water) LST solution. Do not over
wet.
4. Work in with hand brush.
5. Wipe face pile with cotton towels or hand bonnets to extract soil and moisture.
6. Groom face pile with pile lay.
7. Dry with fans or in direct sunlight.
8. Allow rug to dry completely. Then vacuum or air dust.
9. Groom pile and comb out fringes.

STRIP WASHING

Cautions:

1. Always inspect and pre-test. Document and photograph. Note all pre-existing damage.
2. Inspect to determine the cause of color migration. Is it crocking, dye bleeding, both? Is it
   ink or stenciling?
3. Test to determine which solution removes the color. Is it oxidation? Is it reduction? Is it
   solvent? Next determine the concentration required to destroy the color at its minimum. Do not go too strong. “First, do no harm”. Avoid using heat, as high temperature can over accelerate and cause blotchiness in appearance or worse, color, and fiber damage. Determine dwell time. These instructions are using Dye Stripper to remove color. Reduction should take about 5 to 10 minutes, if any faster, you’re using too strong of a concentration. Avoid using chlorine bleach. Only use chlorine bleach as a last resort, it must be neutralized immediately after using. Chlorine bleach can cause yellowing and fiber damage.
4. Test for fiber(s) types.
5. When using redox reactions to strip wash, you should balance the fibers afterwards. Use an
   oxidation reduction potential (ORP) meter to determine the balance value. Quote for this before washing.
6. Do Not set expectations to be 100% perfection, only improvement.
7. Have release of liability signed before washing.

Cleaning procedures:

1. Dust rug.
2. Wet out rug with Dye Release solution. Work in with hand, brush or other tool.
3. Flood rinse with cold, clear water to flush out dyes if possible. If color is moving off rug,
   repeat if necessary. Use squeegee or roller.
4. Apply Rug Resurrection to entire rug, pile and fringe evenly and rapidly to achieve even
   dwell time. Work in with hand, brush, or other tool.
5. Apply Dye Stripper solution at your predetermined concentration to the worst area first
   and work your way to the least affected areas. Work in with a hand brush or other
   tool.
6. Observe attentively for color reduction. It should take about 5 to 10 minutes to reduce
   colors. Continue to apply solution and work in until the colors look good. Stop at 10
   minutes no matter what. Do Not try for 100% perfection, try for improvement (80% or
   90%) do not over shoot.
7. Rinse with cool, clear water to flush away chemicals and stop the reaction. Work in the
   rinse, water and squeegee.
8. If colors remain, apply dye stripper at increasing strength. Observe background colors and
   stop if you see color damage. Do not exceed 10 minutes of dwell time. Repeat if
   necessary. Rinse each time.
9. After rinsing, squeegee, roll, wring out, or extract to remove excess water. If using
   centrifuge, make sure to completely cover rug with absorbent cotton towels or quilts
   to prevent dye transfer “tattooing” during spinning.
10. Measure the oxidation reduction potential with ORP meter. If reading is below 400
    millivolts, apply Ancient Secret Formula solution to the pile of the rug to balance the
    value (about 500 millivolts) and to remove stripper odor. Apply after drying.
11. Flat dry rug in sunlight, if possible, even if cloudy. Sunlight will help with the colors. Do not
    hang dry.
12. Groom with pile lay after applying Ancient Secret Formula solution.

Sisal Rugs

Cautions: 

1. Test and inspect rug. Complete pre-inspection form and photograph rug. Note all pre-Existing conditions, including:
2.  Check for signs of shrinkage, dimensional distortion and rippling.
3. Look for water marks and rings. Look for “ghost” stains that may appear after cleaning.
4.  Test for color fastness on fabric borders, if any.
5.  Check for structural integrity and rot.
6.  If latexed on back, test for damage or failure.
7.  These rugs do not respond well to cleaning, have a release signed, note on pre-inspection form and inform customer that, browning, watermarking, rings or stains will not come out.

Cleaning procedure:

1. Air dust or vacuum only.
2. If fabric borders fail color fastness test, set dye with Dye Fix or saturate with diluted Rug Soure solution.
3.  Apply Sublime to rug.
4.  Apply Problem Reducing Shampoo solution to entire rug.
5.  Work shampoo solution in with shampooer, hand brush, Cimex or other method, evenly, front and back if two sided.
6.  Flood rinse rug with cold, clear water, front and back until rinse water is clear. Use squeegee or weighted roller to wring out soils and water.
7.  A. Squeegee, roll, ring out, extract, centrifuge or use other method to remove excess water.
   B. If using a flat bed washer, or other system, run with no brushes, no soap, rinse only.
8. Flay dry, face down. Use air mover across back to speed dry.
9.  For wicked-up stains or water marks, use 3% hydrogen peroxide, apply heavily to stain area and feather into surrounding areas.
10.  Tea dye may be used to even out colors after drying.

Repairing Wool Fibers

One of the most amazing facts about wool is that you can repair damaged wool fibers. Yes, wool fibers, even though dead, can repair themselves if given the correct tools. We all know this, because we know that high pH can damage wool. We can repair some of that damage by returning wool to its isoionic balance of 5.5 pH. Your goal when cleaning wool is to leave the pH as close to 5.5 as possible. You do not have to check the pH of every square inch of every rug, but, you should know the pH of your cleaning system, If you keep your system near 5.5 pH you will probably see that your colors “pop” too, as most dyes will look their best at this pH. More important, your wool will be stronger, remember, what is made of amino acids, it likes the pH of 5.5. The fibers will feel softer too.

Even more important to the repair of wool fibers is the redox balance of the wool. Many rugs are chemically washed and this adversely affects the wool, often the disulfide bonds of the wool proteins are broken. These disulfide bonds are covalent bonds and form the “backbone” of the protein molecule making it strong. These disulfide bonds are important in the folding and stability of the protein molecules.

You can measure this damage with a ORP meter (oxidation-reduction potential meter). A healthy wool rug will have a reading of between 400 and 600 mV (millivolts). However, if a rug has a reading below 200 mV, you need to repair the wool. If you strip wash (reduce) a rug to remove color bleed you will get low readings and will need to repair the wool. Oxidation is the answer to this damage. We manufacture “Ancient Secret Formula” to get the balance of the wool back to the 400 through 600 mV range. This will make the wool strong again and will remove any sulfur dioxide odor from strip washing.

Chemical washed rugs, even brand, new rugs are sometimes washed in chlorine bleach. This will give a high reading of over 800 mV, which you need to repair with a reducing agent like Chem Max “First Stripper”. Reduction will get the wool protein back to a balanced state of 400 to 600 mV. This wool fiber repair will often improve the colors of the rug, while giving back the strength of the repaired wool fibers.

With time the wool fibers become dried out. Wool fibers have a lipid layer. This is found on the epicuticle at the wool’s outer surface, these “scales” cover the entire surface of the fiber. This structural lipid layer is about 1% of the total content of the wool fiber. As this lipid content is lost over time or the wool is damaged by aggressive washing, the wool loses its sheen and luster, plus the fibers become coarse and brittle, even fragile. The cell membrane complex of wool is also a lipid structure. This membrane acts as “cement” to hold the protein cells together. This lipid bilayer is needed to keep the wool fiber strong. You need to repair this damage and make the wool healthy again by treating it with Wool Rug Revitalizer, This can repair the damage from dried-out wool fibers and rebuild the full value of antique or damaged
wool rugs.

As a wool care professional, you should be aware of the widespread use of cyclodextrin as a deodorizer on wool carpet and rugs. Cyclodextrin is used, for example, to make Febreeze.  Repeated use can damage wool as the cyclodextrin breaks down and captures the lipids of the wool fibers. This will eventually physically break down the cell membrane complex. You can and should repair this damage from cyclodextrin by washing away residues and applying Wool Rug Revitalizer.

Just as it is important to clean wool rugs, it is important to repair wool fibers and keep them healthy. Your discerning customers will appreciate your ability to repair their wool rugs and are willing to pay for it. These services can be very profitable and satisfying to preform. A win-win for you, your customer and the rug itself.

Rayon Viscose Rugs

Cautions:

1. Test and inspect rug. Complete pre-inspection form and photograph rug. Note all
pre-Existing conditions, including:

2. Look for yarn slippage.

3. Document texture issues.

4. Look for yellowing and other discolorations.

5. Test for bleeding and crocking.

6. These rugs often become stiff and change texture if not washed with proper chemistry
and procedures.

7. Avoid any aggressive dusting. Do NOT air dust.

8. Must have customer sign a release of liability waiver before washing.

Cleaning procedures:

1. Gently dust or vacuum with care.

2. Wet out rug with cool water and Rayon Rug Shampoo mixed at two ounces per gallon.
Apply to both sides of rug. Allow two or three minutes of dwell time.

3. If colors/dyes crock off, apply Dye Release heavily.

4. Apply Rayon Rug Shampoo mixed at eight ounces per gallon. Apply to both sides,
including fringes.

5. Work in with rotary, Cimex, hand brush or other method, to shampoo into rug.

6. Rinse with cold, clear water until rinse water is clear.
7. Squeegee, roll, ring out, extract, centrifuge or use other method to remove as much
excess water as reasonably possible.

8. Groom pile with the primary lay of the pile.

9. Speed dry the rug. Rayon is very slow drying and some will brown or discolor during
drying. Speed dry as soon as possible. Dry upside down to prevent browning to the face.
If hanging to dry, ensure proper spacing to avoid rugs flapping against one another.

10. After drying, groom again, going with the primary and secondary lay of the pile.

11. If the rug pile is stiff or distorted, lightly apply Silky Soft Solution and groom again. If
yarn slippage is an issue, use the hand wash brush for silk to groom.

12. Tactfully advise the customer to never buy rayon rugs again.

Additional information:

It is important to understand that there is a wide variety of rayon fibers. Your cleaning results will vary from one type of rayon to another. There are three different methods of manufacturing rayon, with some subgroups. Let us discuss a few.

Viscose method:
Viscose rayon uses carbon disulfite during manufacturing and is very damaging to people (neurotoxin) and the environment. Viscose often contains lignin, leading to discoloration during the drying phase. Viscose becomes very weak when wet. No one should ever buy viscose.

Cuprammonium (cupro) method:
Cupro Is another process used to make rayon. Cupro does use some toxic chemistry (copper sulfate ,ammonia, sulphuric acid and sodium hydroxide) which are all recycled in most manufacturing plants, so much better than carbon disulfide used in the viscose method. Cupro is more silk like than any of the other rayon types. Cupro is also being called “vegan silk” or Bemberg silk to con people into buying more rayon. Bemberg is a brand-name for cupro. Just because you can make cupro rayon safe for the environment, does not mean that all manufacturers make it in an environmentally safe way. Remember that rayon is the worlds cheapest and weakest fiber, and many manufacturers cut corners to make it.

Polynosic rayon:
Polynosic rayon is a subtype of viscose. So very undesirable for all. However it is easier to clean than standard viscose. Viscose rayon gets weaker when wet, this makes wet cleaning very difficult, even damaging. The polynosic method of making viscose creates a stronger form of viscose. Polynosic viscose has a higher degree of polymerization than ordinary viscose. Polynosic viscose has about 55% polymerization as compared to only about 40% polymerization in ordinary viscose. Modal is a brand name for polynosic viscose. Much easier to work with than ordinary viscose when wet cleaning.

Lyocell method:
The lyocell process of making rayon does not use carbon disulfide, or other toxic chemicals, It uses 4-methylmorpholine 4-oxide so it does not harm people or the environment. Also, it does not contain lignin, the lyocell method removes all of the lignin. So, far less problems with discoloration during drying.

A brand name for lyocell process is Tensell . The lyocell method makes the best type of rayon. Better for you the cleaner, better for the environment and better for your clients. So for those who insist on buying rayon, insist on recommending the lyocell method of making rayon.

Sources:
Textile fibers, dyes, finishes, and processes a concise guide. Howard L. Needles.
Textiles in perspective. Betty F. Smith/Ira Block.
Essentials of textiles. Marjory L. Joseph.

Paint Removal

Cautions:

1. Safety first. Many solvents are flammable. Ventilate and stay below the flashpoint. Avoid open flames and sparks. Wear appropriate PPE.
2. Solvents may damage carpet and rug backings, cushions and subfloors. Test to be sure that your solvent will not dissolve adhesive or other materials.
3. Some paints will not come out (epoxy paint). Carpet or rug repair may be offered as a solution. If paint is only on the tips of the pile yarns, you may be able to tip sheer the paint off. A bonded insert may fix a tufted carpet or a hand knotted rug may be rewoven.

Cleaning procedures:

1. Vacuum, dust or scrape. Remove as much dried paint as possible without damaging the carpet.
2. Apply First & Foremost to paint. Tamp in to penetrate and break up the paint. Blot with rags or disposable towels. If First & Foremost does not dissolve the paint, use a different volatile dry solvent (VDS). If you cannot find a solvent that will dissolve the paint, it will not come out. Offer your repair or replacement services.
3. Apply a small amount of Non Volatile Dry Solvent (NVDS). NVDS will not evaporate rapidly like First & Foremost so it will have the dwell time to soften and remove the paint.
4. After some dwell time, cover paint with rags or disposable towels and tamp. You can also vacuum only extract to suck out the dissolved paint. Do not use any water/rinse, vacuum only. This will get paint all over (and inside) your extraction tools, so you may want to have a paint job only tool and hose, or you will have to clean up before the next job.
5. Apply First & Foremost and vacuum only extract. Repeat until all or as much as possible is removed.
6. Apply diluted LST solution. Cover with rags or disposable towels and tamp.
7. Vacuum extract with water/rinse, thoroughly.
8. Cover area with rags or disposable towels and dry completely. Use several layers to act as a poultice to draw out the last paint residues.
9. If some color is still apparent, treat like a dye stain. Use a redox reaction to remove the color. Reduction is the safer of the two and is more likely to work. Use Low Odor Dye Stripper. Start weak and work your way up (1%, 2%, 3%, etc).
   For oxidation use Urine, Odor And Stain Remover (hydrogen peroxide). Start weak and work your way up (5 to1=2%, 4 to 1=2.4%, 3 to 1=3%, 2 to 1=4%, 1 to 1=6%, full strength=12%).

Fresh Paint Spills

When a customer calls about a fresh paint spill, advise them to pick up as much paint as possible with a spoon, and be careful not to rub it into the carpet pile. Then cover the area with plastic to prevent drying until you can get there. Water based paint can be kept damp with wet towels.

Cleaning procedures:

1. Remove excess paint.
2. Apply LST solution. Tamp and rinse, extract. Repeat as necessary.
3. Cover area with rags or disposable towels and dry completely. Use several layers to act as a poultice to draw out the last paint residues.
4. If some color is still apparent, treat like a dye stain. Use a redox reaction to remove the color. Reduction is the safer of the two and is more likely to work. Also try Low Odor Dye Stripper. Start weak and work your way up. For oxidation use hydrogen peroxide. Start weak and work your way up.