My number one September bait for the northern half of the country is the drop shot. This is a carryover from August, but it continues to catch fish as summer starts fading away. What I love about the drop shot is that your bait stays suspended horizontally off the bottom, dancing naturally like the minnows and other forage bass are feeding on. If the water is clear, the fishing is tough, or I’m targeting smallmouth, I’m going with a Berkley MaxScent Flat Worm. I like the 3- and 4-inch sizes in simple natural colors like green pumpkin, black, pearl, and natural shad patterns. I’ll nose-hook the Flat Worm on a drop-shot-style hook to give it maximum movement.

If I’m around largemouth, dirtier water, weeds, brush piles, or deep docks, I switch to a Berkley Bottom Hopper, especially the 6-inch version, and Texas rig it on a small straight-shank hook.
My basic September drop-shot setup:
When those cool September nights start dropping the water temperature, bait number two becomes a major player, the spinnerbait. Guys, I’ve caught more bass on a spinnerbait starting in September than almost any other time of the year. As the water cools, forage starts moving. Shad, perch, alewife, herring, cisco, whatever the bass are feeding on begins to transition, and the bass follow it.
That means I need something that lets me cover water and find those moving fish. My favorite setup is a 3/8- or 1/2-ounce Molix Double Willow Spinnerbait. Those willow blades give you flash, vibration, and the profile of little baitfish, while letting you fish quickly. Cover flats, points, grass edges, pockets, and anywhere you see baitfish activity. The big lesson here is don’t keep fishing where the bass were. When those temperatures start dropping, the bass can move quickly. Pick up that spinnerbait, put the trolling motor down, and go find them!
Now let’s head south. If September still feels like August where you live, those bass are probably still holding in their summertime locations. That’s when I want bait number three—a football jig. In September, there are still plenty of bass living offshore on river ledges, main-lake points, channel swings, and deeper hard-bottom areas. I want a bait that I can keep in contact with the bottom and just crawl and crash through that stuff. For largemouth and bigger fish, I’ll use a traditional 1/2-, 3/4-, or even 1-ounce football jig paired with a craw or double-tail grub trailer.

But here’s a sleeper: when the water is super clear, the fish are pressured, or I’m targeting spotted bass, I downsize to the Missile Jigs Micro Football Jig, available in finesse and HD versions. That little compact profile can be deadly, especially on spotted bass lakes. Pair it with a small craw, double-tail grub, or even a Ned-style trailer.
Remember the football jig rule:
Last but not least is my favorite September big-fish bait, the swimbait! Guys, think about what has happened to the forage since spring. All those little shad, bluegill, and other baitfish have spent June, July, and August growing. By September, there’s a lot of bigger forage swimming around, and those bass know it! I generally like swimbaits from 5 to 8 inches, but 6 inches is my sweet spot. When I’m covering open water, flats, and non-specific cover, I love the 6-inch Berkley CullShad. Its boot tail creates body roll and tail action, so I can cast it out, reel it back, and cover a tremendous amount of water.

But around specific targets—deep docks, laydowns, bluff banks, or isolated stumps—I’m going with the 6-inch Berkley PowerBait Chop Block. That single-jointed design lets me chop the bait side to side and keep it around the strike zone longer. Both are soft-plastic baits, so I can even add nail weights when I need to get them deeper. Remember this one: September starts with an S, and swimbait starts with an S! Whether your fish are still holding onto summer or already making that first move toward fall, these four baits will help you adjust, find the fish, and put more bass in the boat!
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]]>The most important part of any square bill crankbait is right there in the name, the bill. A square bill has a short, angled lip that controls how deep the bait dives, but more importantly, it controls how the bait deflects.

Most square bills are shallow-running crankbaits designed for water from just a couple feet deep down to about five or six feet. My choice is the Berkley Squarebull, and one thing I really like about this bait is its wider, broader lip. When that lip contacts a stump, rock, dock piling, log, gravel, or other piece of cover, the bait kicks away from it instead of just running straight. The Berkley Squarebull comes in three sizes, and each one has a place in my boat:
That wider square bill lip helps the bait dive, deflect, and even “hunt” a little as it tries to center itself after hitting something. That movement is exactly what we want!
Color selection for square billing doesn’t have to be complicated. My number-one rule is to match the hatch. Look at the forage in the water and choose something that resembles what those bass are eating.

I basically organize my square bill colors into three groups.
Size, color, vibration, and sound all matter, but none of them work to their full potential unless you fish that bait correctly.
Here’s the biggest secret I can give you about square billing: stop trying to keep your crankbait away from cover! I want that Berkley Squarebull hitting something on almost every cast. Cast past the stump. Crank the bait down. Let that square bill smack the stump,

pause for just a second, and start reeling again.
The bait hits, deflects, rises slightly, hunts, and then starts moving forward again. THAT is when the bite happens! You’re creating a sudden change of direction right in front of that bass. If there’s no stump, rock, dock, or other cover, try to makethe bait contact the bottom. And if you can’t hit anything at all, create the same action yourself:
The worst thing you can do is cast a square bill out and simply wind it straight back to the boat. Make that bait hunt, deflect, stop, start, and change direction. Those changes trigger reaction strikes from bass that might otherwise completely ignore your lure.
Finally, your equipment matters, especially because square bills use treble hooks. I like a softer, more parabolic rod that loads up and absorbs the shock when a bass jumps or thrashes. My choice is an Abu Garcia Ike Series Delay Rod, a composite rod combining glass and graphite. For close-range square billing, I like a shorter 6’6″ to 7′ medium-action rod because it helps me make accurate casts around docks, stumps, pilings, and other shallow targets. Match it with a medium-speed reel around 6.8:1 to 7.4:1; my Abu Garcia Ike Series 7.1:1 reel is right in that sweet spot. For line, forget braid most of the time. I want some stretch. When I want the Square Bull to reach maximum depth, I use Berkley Trilene Fluorocarbon, generally 12- to 17-pound test, with 15-pound being my favorite all-around choice. When I want the bait to stay higher in one to three feet of water, I switch to old-school mono like Berkley Trilene Sensation. The big lesson is simple: square billing is about creating a reaction. Hit the cover, hit the bottom, change your speed, move your rod, and make that bait hunt. When a square bill suddenly changes direction next to a bass, that fish has a hard time letting it go by. Give these tricks a try the next time you hit the water, and I promise you’re going to put more bass in the boat!
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Northern Anglers:
My first choice is a drop shot. When fish slide deeper or suspend around rock, grass edges, and current, a drop shot keeps your bait right in their face. I like heavier tungsten weights in August—usually 1/4 to 3/8 ounce or more—to stay in contact with deep fish. My favorite plastics are the Berkley MaxScent Flat Worm and the Berkley Lab Series Straight Tail Worm because their scent and natural action help trigger extra bites. My second northern bait is the Berkley Power Switch, a pre-rigged minnow that excels around suspended bass. Whether I’m casting to fish on electronics or vertically ‘moping’ beneath the boat, it stays horizontal and has an incredible shimmy that pressured fish can’t ignore.

Northern Deep Fishing:
• Drop Shot with Berkley MaxScent Flat Worm
• Berkley Lab Series Straight Tail Worm
• Berkley Power Switch pre-rigged minnow
Southern Anglers:
The heat is brutal this time of year. Bass often stay shallow if they have thick overhead cover. Grass mats, docks, laydowns, flooded timber and lily pads all become prime real estate. When fish are buried under that cover, I rely on two presentations. If I’m fishing over the top, I grab the Molix Sneaky Frog and walk it across the thickest cover I can find. If I need to punch through the cover, I rig a Berkley MaxScent Creature Hawg behind a Berkley Fusion Straight Shank Hook with a heavy tungsten weight. The goal is simple—
get that bait into the cool, shady holes where bass spend the day.
Southern Thick Cover:
• Molix Sneaky Frog
• Berkley MaxScent Creature Hawg
• Berkley Fusion Straight Shank Hook
• Heavy tungsten weight
When southern fish move offshore, I switch gears and hunt schools. A Berkley Dredger deep-diving crankbait is my search bait because it covers water and bangs the bottom where bass group up on ledges, points, humps, and river channels. Once I locate a school, I follow with the Molix Lover Spoon. Its fluttering fall keeps fish interested and often catches multiple bass from the same school. Many bites come as the spoon falls, so watch your line closely. If they won’t eat the crankbait anymore, that spoon can keep the action going.

So before your next August trip, keep it simple. Remember the summer rule: deeper, thicker, and current. Let the fish tell you which pattern they’re using, then pick the bait that matches the conditions. For northern anglers, lean on the drop shot and Berkley Power Switch. For southern anglers, cover thick vegetation with the Molix Sneaky Frog or punch a Berkley MaxScent Creature Hawg into the heaviest cover you can find. If the fish move offshore, fire up the Berkley Dredger and clean up with the Molix Lover Spoon. Stick with those four bait categories, fish them with confidence, and you’ll put more bass in the boat all month long.
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]]>If you fish anywhere from Virginia north, one of the best baits you can throw in July is a minnow-style soft bait. Whether you’re using electronics to target offshore fish or simply casting from the bank, bass are feeding heavily on baitfish this time of year. Natural colors like pearl, white, translucent, or even green pumpkin work great depending on the forage in your lake.

One of my favorites is the Berkley PowerBait MaxScent Flatnose Minnow, especially when bass are feeding on smaller baitfish. If they’re eating bigger forage, I love the new Berkley PowerBait Lab Series Minnow, which combines PowerBait and MaxScent technology for incredible action and scent. Rig both on a Berkley Fusion Jighead and retrieve them with a slow reel while gently shaking your rod tip. That subtle rolling action drives summertime bass crazy.
Another bait that’s been absolutely on fire is the Berkley PowerBait MaxScent ‘Moeba. This unique urchin-style bait has tons of little tentacles that create incredible movement in the water.

For northern anglers, remember these simple tips:
These two baits cover a lot of water and consistently produce when northern bass move into their summer homes.
If there’s one bait that belongs on every deck in July, it’s a topwater lure. It doesn’t matter if you’re fishing New York, Pennsylvania, Texas, or Florida, July is prime time for explosive surface strikes.
Around shallow cover, I love throwing the Molix Lover Buzz SS Buzzbait. It planes quickly, runs straight, and makes plenty of noise to call fish up. When the cover gets really thick, lilly pads, hydrilla, matted grass, bushes, or docks, I switch to the Molix Supernato Frog. Its buzzing legs create incredible action while remaining completely weedless.
There are few things in fishing more exciting than watching a bass explode through the surface on a topwater bait. Those are the bites you’ll remember all year long.
If you’re fishing from Virginia south, bass are already dealing with extremely warm water and have often moved into deeper structure or heavy cover. That’s where deep-diving crankbaits become one of my favorite summertime tools.
The Berkley Dredger 17.5, Berkley Dredger 20.5, and Berkley Dime 15 allow you to reach fish holding in that critical 15- to 22-foot zone. The key isn’t just getting the bait deep—it’s making it deflect off rocks, brush piles, ledges, or other cover to trigger reaction strikes.
Then there’s the jig. Honestly, I don’t go anywhere in July without one tied on.
For deep structure, I rely on the Missile Baits Head Banger Football Jig. For grass, docks, wood, and heavy cover, I pick up the Missile Baits Flip Out Jig. Match your trailer to the situation. The Berkley PowerBait Shape 108 Craw gives you lots of action for deep football jig fishing, while the Berkley PowerBait Creature

Hawg or Pit Boss slips through vegetation much easier when flipping heavy cover.
For southern anglers, keep these tips in mind:
July is one of my favorite months of the year. The fish are feeding, the weather is warm, and there’s no better time to spend long days on the water with family and friends. Whether you’re fishing a big reservoir, a natural lake, a river, or your neighborhood pond, these baits will put more bass in the boat.
Here’s the game plan:
Give these baits a try this month, keep an open mind, and adjust to the conditions you find. I promise they’ll help you catch more bass this July. Fish hard, have fun, and never stop learning!
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July Top Baits EXPOSED! (Plus Pros SECRET Pick)
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One bait that has really stood out for me is the new Berkley MaxScent ‘Moeba. Over the last year, I’ve spent a lot of time fishing it in tournaments, fun fishing, and filming content, and the results have been incredible. The big question anglers keep asking is, “Why are bass eating these things?” The answer might be simpler than you think, they offer fish a look and action they haven’t seen before.
There are two theories about why these baits work so well. The first is biological. When bass are tiny fry, they feed heavily on zooplankton and other microscopic organisms. If you compare those tiny creatures to a fuzzy ball bait, there are actually some similarities. It’s possible that bass recognize this shape from the earliest stages of their life. The second theory, and the one I believe more every time I fish it, is that the bait is simply different. Every one of those tentacles moves independently as the bait falls. When you twitch it, jerk it, or pull it through the water, it creates an incredible amount of water displacement. Bass see countless swimbaits, jigs, worms, and crankbaits every year. The ‘Moeba gives them a completely different profile, vibration, and action. Add in Berkley’s proven MaxScent technology, and you have a lure that appeals to a bass’s sight, feel, and smell all at once.
One of the things I love most about the ’Moeba is its versatility. There’s really no wrong way to rig it. You can fish it on a drop shot, Carolina rig, wacky rig, or even weightless. But after a lot of experimenting, I’ve found one setup that consistently gives me the best action and the highest hookup percentage. I use a Berkley Fusion19 treble hook in either a No. 1 or No. 2 size and nose-hook the bait between the tentacles. Then I secure it with a bait stopper so it stays locked in place. To weight the bait, I either insert a tungsten nail weight through the center hole or attach a teardrop-style drop-shot weight to a split ring on the hook. Both methods work great depending on the situation.
The nail weight creates a slower, more horizontal fall that’s deadly on suspended fish. The drop-shot weight acts more like a ball-and-chain, helping the bait get down quickly around docks, trees, and other shallow cover.
When I’m targeting suspended fish offshore, especially while using my Lowrance ActiveTarget system, I cast beyond the fish and let the bait fall naturally into their strike zone. The fall is the key. Most of the bites happen while those tentacles are slowly quivering on the way down. If the fish follows but doesn’t commit, I’ll give the bait a subtle shake and then let it fall again. For shallow-water fishing around docks, seawalls, bridge pilings, and laydowns, I fish it differently. I pitch the bait to the target and allow it to fall on a semi-slack line. If I don’t get bit, I give it a sharp snap with the rod tip to make the bait surge forward and push water, then I let it fall again.
This combination of sudden movement and slow fall creates a reaction that bass simply can’t ignore!
The bottom line is this: the fuzzy ball bait trend is here to stay. The Berkley MaxScent ‘Moeba offers bass something completely different from the traditional baits they see every day. Its unique shape, incredible water displacement, slow fall, and proven MaxScent formula make it one of the most exciting new lures I’ve fished in years. Whether you’re targeting suspended fish offshore with Lowrance electronics or flipping shallow cover, this bait deserves a spot in your tackle box. As anglers, we always talk about staying ahead of the curve, and right now this is one of the best ways to do it.
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]]>One of the biggest mistakes I see anglers make is thinking all frogs are the same. Just like jigs and crankbaits, different frogs are designed for different jobs.
Over the years, I’ve simplified my frog selection into three basic categories. First is a walking frog like the Molix Sneaky Frog, which excels when you want to cover water and create a side-to-side action. Second is a popping frog like the Molix Pop Frog , which is perfect for fishing isolated targets and slowing your presentation down. Finally, there’s the Molix Supernato Frog, a buzzing-style frog that shines

in windy conditions, low-light periods, and around heavy vegetation with open holes. Here’s a quick breakdown of when I use each:
If you have these three frog styles in your tackle box, you’ll be prepared for almost every frog fishing situation you’ll encounter throughout the season.
When it comes to color, I keep things incredibly simple. You don’t need twenty different frog colors to catch bass. I pay attention to what the bass are naturally feeding on. If they’re chasing shad, I lean toward white. If they’re feeding on bluegills or darker forage, I’ll often throw a darker frog or one with some yellow and orange on the belly. Sometimes I’ll even add a little orange marker to the throat of a bluegill-colored frog to make it look more natural. Keeping your color selection simple allows you to focus on location, presentation, and confidence, three things that matter a lot more than having a hundred different colors.

In fact, I rely on just three basic colors to start:
Now let’s talk frog modifications. Before I ever tie on a frog, I make a few simple adjustments. The first thing I do is trim the legs because most frogs come out of the package with skirts that are way too long. I cut them shorter and angle the cuts to create more movement. Next, I use pliers to slightly bend the hook points away from the body. This tiny adjustment can dramatically improve your hookup percentage without making the frog any less weedless. Finally, when I’m fishing dirty water, thick mats, or low-light conditions, I’ll add a tube rattle inside the frog. That extra sound helps bass locate the bait and can make a huge difference when visibility is limited. These little adjustments only take a few minutes, but they can turn missed strikes into fish in the boat.
The final piece of the puzzle is using the right equipment. My frog setup consists of an Abu Garcia Ike Series 7’4” Medium Heavy Casting Rod, Abu Garcia Ike Series Casting Reel, and Berkley X5 Braid in 40- to 50-pound test. One mistake I see a lot of anglers make is using a rod that’s too stiff. A medium-heavy rod with some tip helps you cast farther, work the frog more effectively, and gives the fish a split second longer to fully eat the bait before you set the hook.

That setup gives me the power to drive the hooks home and pull fish out of the thickest cover imaginable. Pair it with the right frog for the conditions, and you’re ready for some of the most exciting fishing of the year.
Frog fishing is one of the few techniques where every cast could produce an explosive strike. Keep your frog selection simple, make a few key modifications, and use the proper equipment, and you’ll put more bass in the boat from spring all the way through fall. Trust me, once you experience a giant bass blowing up on a frog, you’ll be hooked for life.

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]]>Northern Anglers (Virginia and North)

Bait #1 Soft Jerkbait
For my northern anglers, bait number one is a fluke-style soft jerkbait. This bait is usually thought of as a fall bait, but honestly, June is one of the best times of the year to throw it. My favorite is the Berkley Powerbait Jerk Shad in the 5-inch size. I like natural baitfish colors like white, pearl, shad, and chartreuse. If your lake has more perch or bluegill, green pumpkin and watermelon colors work great too.
The reason this bait is so good in June is because it covers multiple patterns at once. If bass are still spawning or guarding fry, twitching that bait over the bed drives them crazy. It looks like a baitfish trying to eat their babies, and those bass will absolutely smash it. But if the bass are done spawning and baitfish are spawning instead, it’s still perfect because it imitates wounded shad, herring, or alewives.
One of my favorite tricks is rigging the bait with a silver barrel swivel about a foot above the hook. I use a short fluorocarbon leader tied to a 4/0 or 5/0 Berkley Fusion Offset Hook. That swivel adds weight, stops line twist, and gives the bait extra flash as it jerks through the water.
Key Targets:

Bait #2 Soft Tube Bait
Bait number two for my northern anglers is a tube bait like the Berkley Powerbait Maxscent Tube. Guys, June and tube fishing go together perfectly. Whether you’re targeting largemouth, smallmouth, or spotted bass, a tube catches fish this month. I usually throw two sizes:
For open water, sand, gravel, or bedding fish, I use an internal jig head. That internal head gives the bait an erratic spiral fall that bass can’t stand. Once it hits bottom, the tentacles flare out and look alive when you shake the rod tip.
For heavier cover, especially around largemouth, I Texas rig the larger tube with a Berkley Fusion EWG Hook and a pegged 3/16- or ¼-ounce weight. Whether fish are spawning, guarding fry, or moving toward summer spots, a tube bait gets bites.
Key Targets:
Southern Anglers (Virginia and South)

Bait #1 Crankbait
For my southern anglers, most of your fish are already done spawning by June. Bass in places like Texas, Florida, Alabama, Louisiana, Georgia, and the Carolinas are moving away from spawning pockets and starting to settle into summer patterns. That makes bait number three a perfect choice: a diving crankbait.
I love the Berkley Dime series because the number tells you how deep it runs. A Dime 6 runs about 6 feet, a Dime 10 runs 10 feet, and a Dime 15 gets down to around 15 feet. In June, I’m targeting secondary points and transition areas where bass stop before heading to deeper summer water.
The key is matching the crankbait depth to the depth you’re fishing and keeping that bait grinding the bottom. When it crashes into rock, shell beds, or isolated cover, that’s when you get those reaction bites.
Key Targets:

Bait #2 Football Jig
Last but definitely not least is one of my all-time favorite June baits for catching giant bass: a football jig. My favorite is the Missile Jigs Headbanger Football Jig in heavier sizes like ½-ounce, ¾-ounce, and even 1 ounce.
I fish this bait in the same places as the crankbait — secondary points, hard-bottom areas, ledges, and offshore structure. The football-shaped head keeps the jig upright and allows it to crawl over rock without tipping over. I slowly drag it, hop it, and pause it every time I hit something different.
For trailers, I want more action because the water is warming up. The Berkley Shape 108 Craw is perfect because those claws kick hard and create a bigger profile. Big bass love that larger meal in June.
Key Targets:
June is an awesome month because there’s so much happening at once. Bass are feeding, moving, and changing every day. If you keep these four baits tied on; a fluke, tube, diving crankbait, and football jig, you’ll be ready for all the major June patterns across the country. Tie these on, hit the water, and go catch some big ones.
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The first and biggest secret is the trailer. Guys, listen to me, the trailer isn’t optional. A Chatterbait without a trailer is like a cheeseburger without cheese. It works, but it’s missing something important! The trailer lets you completely fine-tune the bait. I break trailers into three categories:

Non-Action Trailers
These trailers have very little movement of their own. The blade creates all the action. I love these for:
And here’s the magic word: hunt. Non-action trailers help the bait get loose and wander side to side instead of running perfectly straight. Think about a scared baitfish or crawfish, they don’t swim in a straight line. They dart around. That hunting movement creates reaction strikes. To make it even better, trim your skirt down to just below the hook point and thin it out. Pull out strands from the sides and back until you cut the skirt volume almost in half. That little tweak creates incredible action.
Now let’s move into my all-around favorite category: moderate-action trailers. These are the workhorses. They add movement but don’t overpower the bait.
Moderate Action Favorites
These trailers are killer because they work almost everywhere:
When I’m matching baitfish or crawfish, I rig the trailer flat. But here’s a secret trick that catches a lot of fish: rig it sideways. Sounds crazy, right? But turning a Pit Boss sideways creates a wider profile and suddenly your bait looks more like bluegill, perch, crappie, or tilapia. You still get moderate action, but now the bait looks bulkier. Small adjustment. Huge difference.
Now let’s talk about maximum action. This is where paddle-tail swimbait trailers come in. I’m talking:
Full Action Trailers
These create massive movement and lift. But remember, the more action you add in the back, the less hunting action the bait gets. Instead of wandering around, it tracks perfectly straight. That’s critical around isolated targets. Think:
You want the bait moving straight so you can purposely tick cover. Tick. Tick. Tick. Deflection creates strikes. Another bonus is that the bigger trailer creates lift. If fish are high in the water column, under docks, or over shallow grass, use a larger paddle-tail and keep that bait up higher.
Now let me give you some bonus juice before we wrap this thing up. First, if the water gets dirty, add sound. I almost always stick an 8mm glass rattle inside the trailer in stained water. That extra clicking sound can make a huge difference. Second, use a dab of super glue to keep your trailer from sliding down after every fish. Third, and this one is big, if fish are short-striking your Chatterbait, add a trailer hook. Guys, people do it on spinnerbaits and buzzbaits all the time. Why not here? A size 1 or 2 trailer hook catches fish that just slap at the bait. Last tip: pay attention to blade color. On sunny days I like shiny blades:
Low light, muddy water, rain, or cloudy days? Go darker. Use black or painted blades. Don’t be afraid to customize. A Sharpie works great, and products like Spike-It Electra Chrome Blade Dip let you completely change blade color on the fly. Guys, these little tweaks matter. One last thing, fish your Chatterbait on a medium-action rod with a softer tip. Too stiff and the fish pull off. Too soft and you won’t drive the hook home. Find that perfect middle ground. Try these tricks next time you’re on the water, and I promise you’ll put more bass in the boat.
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]]>May is all about transition. Up north, it’s spring turning into the spawn. You’ve got fish coming in, fish on beds, and even some fish guarding fry. But down south, it’s a totally different deal. Those fish are mostly done spawning and moving into a post-spawn feeding mode. And the key thing down south in May? The bait spawn; shad, herring, and bluegill all spawning at once. That means bass are feeding hard!
Now let’s get into it. Here are my top four baits for the month of May.
For my anglers up north, bait number one in May is a small swimbait, six inches or less. I’m talking about baits like the Berkley PowerBait Chop Block or the Berkley Cull Shad in that five- to six-inch range.

This is a two-for-one bait in May:
Think about this,if a fish is on a bed that’s a little deeper or just out of sight, they’ll come up and swipe at that swimbait. Same thing with fry guarders. Even if they don’t eat it, they show themselves, and now you know exactly where they are.
Keep your colors simple:
This is your search bait. It helps you cover water and find fish fast.
Bait number two for my northern anglers is a soft stick bait, like the Berkley PowerBait MaxScent The General Worm in a four- to five-inch size.

This is your follow-up bait:
I like to fish it:
Target key areas like:
There’s just something about that slow fall during the spawn. Bass can’t stand it. This bait turns those lookers into biters.
For my anglers down south, bait number three is a swim jig, and I love something compact like the Missile Baits Mini Swim Jig.
May down south is all about the bait spawn, and this bait lets you match it perfectly.

Think about the forage:
Adjust your setup based on conditions:
Trailer choice matters too:
This is a great search bait down south, just like the swimbait is up north. It lets you cover water and match what bass are feeding on.
Bait number four—and this is where it gets fun—is topwater. May is one of the best months of the year for topwater fishing down south.
Start by matching the baitfish:

Then match the cover:
Here’s the key adjustment—when bluegill are spawning:
Bass are targeting those bluegill, and they cannot stand something popping over the top. That’s when you get those explosive, heart-stopping strikes.
May is an awesome month because fish are doing so many different things. Up north, they’re moving into and through the spawn. Down south, they’re feeding up and heading toward summer patterns.
If you match your bait to what the fish are doing, you can have some of the best fishing of the entire year.
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When you compare it to something like the Berkley MaxScent Hit Worm, it’s not even close. That’s a 6-inch finesse-style bait versus a 9-inch Power Wag that’s double the thickness. This thing is built to stand out, and that’s exactly why it works.
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Now let’s talk about the concept behind this bait, because this is important. This is what I call the “big bait theory.” You’ve heard me talk about it before with big glide baits like the Berkley PowerBait Chop Block or oversized swimbaits. Bigger bait equals bigger drawing power. And now we’re taking that same idea and applying it to a straight-tail worm. That’s what makes the Power Wag so special. It’s not a ribbon tail like the old-school big worms—it’s a straight tail with a totally different action. This bait has already blown up in places like Japan and out West in California, and there’s a reason why. It pulls fish in from a distance and triggers those big bites. That big profile? That’s dinner to a giant bass.
Another huge deal with this bait is the material. This is MaxScent, and if you’ve used it before, you already know. It’s soft, it’s wet, it’s loaded with scent. This isn’t your typical hard plastic worm; it’s like a big, floppy noodle. And because of that, the action is insane. Even though it’s thick, it still tapers down to a thinner tail, and that tail just moves like crazy. You’ve got that blunt, thicker head and that thinner, tapered end, and that combo creates a ton of movement in the water. So now you’ve got a big profile, a ton of action, and scent that makes fish hold on longer. That’s a triple threat right there.
Alright, let’s get into rigging, because this is where it gets fun. My number one way to fish this bait is a Neko rig. I know, it sounds crazy using a big worm like this on a finesse-style rig, but it works. Here’s the deal:
That offset rigging creates a pivot point, and when you shake it, this thing goes nuts. It’s kicking, wagging, and drawing fish in from a distance. That’s my go-to.
My second favorite way is a traditional Texas rig. This is where it really shines for covering water and targeting bigger fish. Rig it from the blunt end with a 5/0 to 7/0 offset worm hook, and keep that bait straight. Use:
What makes this different from a ribbon tail worm is the action. A ribbon tail has that steady, rhythmic motion. The Power Wag? It’s unpredictable. It kicks side to side, up and down, totally out of rhythm. That uneven movement looks like a distressed baitfish or worm, and bass can’t stand it, they’ve got to eat it!
Last but not least, you’ve got the free rig, and this one is sneaky good. It’s like a Texas rig but with a twist:
On the fall, that big Power Wag just glides and wiggles down on its own, and a lot of bites happen right there. But the magic is when you drag it—when the bait catches up to the weight, it pops up and falls back down. That little “jump” is a huge trigger. It’s subtle, but it gets big bites.
So listen, guys—this bait might look wild, but don’t let that scare you. The Berkley MaxScent PowerBait Power Wag is a big worm for big fish. It’s got drawing power, crazy action, and that MaxScent advantage. If you’re looking to catch some of the biggest bass in your lake, this is one you’ve got to try. Hope you enjoyed this one—get out there, tie one on, and go catch ‘em!

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