Comments for Beahm Stream

Comment on BAL Stabilizer Jacks for Leveling Airstream by Paul A Loper

Paul A Loper — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 16:44:54 +0000

Where can i purchase 20-8-T stabilization jacks

Comment on Dinette Table Base by db

db — Wed, 03 Jul 2024 17:06:18 +0000

In reply to Robert. Agree. But it is pretty darn stable, so there's that. And the 12-28 does get you appropriate heights for bed and standard table.

Comment on BAL Stabilizer Jacks for Leveling Airstream by db

db — Wed, 03 Jul 2024 17:04:42 +0000

In reply to Stewart Munsee. Sorry I missed this post, Stewart! These can *definitely* be replaced, and I would say the level of damage would dictate if they can be repaired. I have bent them back into shape on many occasions. Just be careful to note if the damage is affecting the worm-drive rod for ease of lowering/retracting. Also check to be sure the mounting holes have not been damaged (bolts/screws pulled out so that they won't "grab" back in). If that has happened, simply drill new holes instead of using the old ones.

Comment on 1975 Argosy 454 Chevy Big Block – Replace Mechanical Fuel Pump with Electric Fuel Pump by db

db — Wed, 03 Jul 2024 17:00:50 +0000

In reply to Eric Freudenthal.

Sorry I missed this last YEAR, Eric! Information probably won’t be useful to you any more, but I’ll post if for others who come along later. I ended up using the Carter P4070. A lot of people use this one, and I stand by it as well. This is a “low/regular pressure” unit that won’t work with electronic fuel injection (EFI) that require much higher pressure; it’s for carbureted engines. I will note: I purchased my first one from Amazon, and it did not make enough pressure. The seller said it was the “Carter Store,” but I always feel like there is less quality control and grey market/returned units when purchasing from Amazon. Ultimately I finally called Carter direct, spoke to a very nice lady, and was sent a brand new unit that works perfectly. I think Carter is a great brand, and I always love when you can speak to humans “old school style.” For blocking the hole… I found someone on ebay selling milled billet stop blocks that are made for our engine and simply bolt back on using the original pump bolts. I believe I used some liquid gasket maker around the edge before bolting on to seal it up. Hope you found the right info. and your electric pump has been a success!

Comment on Insulating an Airstream (part 1: research and theory) by db

db — Mon, 24 Jun 2024 20:59:16 +0000

In reply to Christine.

Part two is linked at the bottom of part 1! ;-)

At this point, I have created many Airstreams using the information in Part 2, and feel confident in this “4 season” solution. The thermal gap on the ribs is key for summertime, and getting everything sealed up tight makes winter possible.

Comment on Insulating an Airstream (part 1: research and theory) by Christine

Christine — Fri, 21 Jun 2024 01:16:12 +0000

At 62, I am not OLD, but am at a time when I am wanting to do what I want and what I want is to live in a 4 season Airstream and be able to pick up and go where I want, when I want for the foreseeable future while I still have the gumption, marbles and a little cash. That said, Im not loaded and want to be able to sell said 4 season hotel on wheels at the end of my adventures and move into somewhere with whatever I have left and live comfortably. I’d have found a gutted decent sized 1969 Airstream that appears in reasonable shape for $10,000. Enough time has passed since you started your adventure, so Id like to know how you got on and what the result. Where can I find part 2 of the story?

Comment on Insulating an Airstream (part 2: practical application) by db

db — Tue, 28 Nov 2023 01:47:16 +0000

In reply to Jess and Mike. The two sides of that rib won't come in contact with anything that would transfer heat/cold. Heat/Cold will transfer from the outside metal skin, through the metal rib, and through/to the metal interior skin (where all three of those materials are in direct contact). Lining the rib with a thermal barrier (like foam) on the surface reduces the amount of heat/cold transferring from outside to inside. The sides of the rib should only come in contact with insulation or air, so there shouldn't be any reason to line the sides with anything. If the worry is cold/heat radiating off the sides of the rib, there should be minimal concern with that issue (especially when the walls are filled with insulation). Surface area is a huge contributor to temperature shifts. If just the ribs (minimal surface area) were heating up, it wouldn't be much of an issue, but since that heat (or cold) is then transferring to a giant surface area which then radiates that unwanted heat/cold, it can really alter the interior temperature of the cabin.

Comment on Insulating an Airstream (part 2: practical application) by Jess and Mike

Jess and Mike — Sun, 26 Nov 2023 17:14:10 +0000

Hi there,
We really appreciate all your thorough research and explanation! We bought a 1969 Land Yacht Overlander International from my Uncle who hasn’t used it since 1980 or so. When reading your description, I was picturing the thermal barrier wrapped around the three sides of the rib, but your pictures show that only the part that touches the interior skin was covered. Did you consider “wrapping” each rib and decide against it for some reason?
Jess and Mike

Comment on 1975 Argosy 454 Chevy Big Block – Replace Mechanical Fuel Pump with Electric Fuel Pump by Eric Freudenthal

Eric Freudenthal — Wed, 24 May 2023 02:18:20 +0000

I’m about to replace my mechanical fuel pump and would love to know
* how the electric one worked out (and which one you ultimately purchased)
* how to seal the hole in the block where the mechanical pump attaches (shoudl I just use an old pump with the lever hacked off??).

Thanks,
Eric

Comment on BAL Stabilizer Jacks for Leveling Airstream by Stewart Munsee

Stewart Munsee — Sun, 07 May 2023 20:00:56 +0000

I have a 23Ft Flying Cloud and went into an unusually steep driveway and the stabilizer feet took a hit but saved the trailer from damage. A few of the brackets are now bent but still operable with a bit more exertion than before. Can the brackets be removed and straightened out or are new brackets available. The feet are in good shape it is just the straight line brackets that are damaged. They are BAL stablizer jacks.