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Blognoreply@blogger.com (Alfonso Cevola)Blogger1847125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20283310.post-5211132282559866511Sun, 27 Sep 2026 22:57:07 +00002026-09-28T05:54:40.129-05:00Drinking without Dogma – Writing without Wonder‽<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 26pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="; style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2856" data-original-width="3330" height="274" src="; width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>𝅘𝅥𝅰 Don't bother they're here 𝅘𝅥𝅰 </i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 26pt; line-height: 115%;">W</span><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 115%;">hen I look at the “inside
baseball” world of wine writing lately, I want to puke. It is as if this
little manufactured bubble, which displays little if anything of a natural
reality, exists for the simple reason that folks need something to hang onto in
regard to the way they identify themselves in the world. Apart from the
artifice, the performativity, the virtuousness and the constant scuffling for
the top rung, where are the stories? What happened to the story tellers?<span><a name='more'></a></span></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 115%;">I think about photography often when arguments over “art” and
technology become heated. In the 1830s, when photography was born, painters
were outraged. Here was this imitator, this mechanical intruder, muscling in on
what they'd decided art was. Give it a century, though, and we got an Ansel
Adams, a Diane Arbus – as different from each other as Monet was from Kandinsky
– and nobody was arguing anymore about whether photography was or wasn’t art.
Then digital cameras arrived and the film shooters lost their minds over this
new usurper. Now digital is as good, technically, maybe better, at making art
than film ever was. And here comes AI, and once again everybody's hair is on
fire. I often heard this line from a wine colleague of mine, Guy Stout. He
loved to say, “It ain’t the wand, it’s the magician.” I took those words to
heart. In the same way – AI is a wand – it sure as hell ain’t my magician. It’s
a tool, a prop, a pillow to cry on, even – but it is not the story teller we
need – we still need the humans, the magicians, to saddle up to the campfire
and spin the tale. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="; style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="666" data-original-width="666" height="320" src="; width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #999999;">Spellcheck: There's no "AI" in Guy</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 115%;"></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 115%;">So there's that. It's nothing new. It's the same argument,
dressed up for the latest unsuspecting and upcoming generation. The tool
changes but the panic rears its ugly head once again. And it's never really
about the tool – it's about who has the loudest megaphone to calm us/rile us up
while the earth trembles ever so repeatedly.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 115%;">There is also the general dearth of good storytelling out
there. In my freelance writing for Dallas’ flagship monthly magazine, D, (think
New York magazine with a slight twang) I’ve gone for short form storytelling
while also informing people of trends or unseen gems in my orbit – a </span><a href="; target="_blank"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 115%;">neighborhood
grocery store</span></a><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 115%;"> worth building a shopping list around, a </span><a href="; target="_blank"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 115%;">manufactured
coastline</span></a><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 115%;"> worth calling out – they’ve been well received, and gotten
good traffic, and while that wasn’t my sole objective, it offers a critical
metric which is the needed oxygen for today’s online world.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 115%;">I can see why so many folks who lay a claim to being a wine
writer are lamenting that their platforms have all but been abandoned by
people, who a mere 10 or 15 years ago, flocked to the sites in copious amounts,
inhaling and ravishing any little tidbit of vinous information, in search of a
good glass of wine. It used to be better. Now it’s gotten murky and cloudy and
stifling. No wonder the wine mavens now all talk at and past each other – most
everyone has left the room years ago.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="; style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2848" data-original-width="4288" height="266" src="; width="400" /></a></div><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 115%;">When did it become a bloody dog-eat-dogmatic world? Or better yet,
why‽</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 115%;">I’m gonna throw some diesel on the bonfire I’ve already
started and state out front that there are too many people trying to monetize
their writing and it has caused a huge fragmentation among the readers – they
simply cannot afford it in economic terms, and further they do not have the
attention bandwidth to absorb and digest all the information that the wine
writing community produces</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 115%;">‽</span><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 115%;"> There have been several folks
who have done a cost analysis, if one were to subscribe to all the major
publications and then add the top 10-20 fee-based Substack sites. It’s
thousands of dollars a year, not to mention the time it would take to go through
all of the material. If it were worth it. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 115%;">And it doesn’t look like many people are saying it is worth it
these days. Look, no one wants to work for free. But a blog, like mine, for
instance, while it is free to the readers who come to it weekly for the past 20
years, it does act like a billboard for my writing style and subjects and it
does lead to paying gigs. Do I need the money? Well, I do have my vices – I really
like to play around with photography equipment – and that can get expensive at
times. But I also use that equipment to augment my writing and it has brought
me income streams as well. So, while I do not depend upon writing for a living,
and while I do understand there are folks out there who would like to support
themselves, solely, with their writing, I know (as they do) that there are only
a few who actually make enough money to support themselves in a fairly comfortable
lifestyle setting. Like actors or artists or athletes, there is only so much
room at the top. Do I like that? Well, if I had my druthers, I’d love to see
more folks sharing the limelight and the financial rewards. But the market
drives those metrics.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 115%;">I was in sales. Reluctantly. My dad was a salesman. And a good
one. But it just didn’t feel like my jam. I did, however, make a study of it
and didn’t do too badly at it. But what the commercial world taught me was that
there is competition and if you don’t find a way to compete, you get left
behind to wail and flail in the wind. Get in and get in the game or get out. I
think that might be similar in the writing world. And in the uber-scrunchy
miniscule world of wine writing, there are even fewer angels dancing on the
head of that pin. Meanwhile in today’s open-media landscape, folks put up a
Substack or a WordPress (or a Blogger!) and, like the town criers we all are,
peel off and let ‘er rip. And this is where we have landed now, in 2026. </span></p>
<p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 115%;">* <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>*<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>*<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>*<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>*</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 115%;">All this has made me thirsty. We’re finally getting a break in
the 100°F weather here in North Texas. Haven’t had rain in months. I can hardly
wait for the weather to cool even more, so I can make my Eggplant Parmigiana
for Rocco. That’s what I am looking forward to – opening a good bottle of
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo to go with the Parmigiana and sharing the food (not the
wine) with man’s best friend, my dog. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 115%;"><a href="; style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3060" data-original-width="4080" height="300" src="; width="400" /></a></span></div><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 115%;">And dogma be doggoned, just for a blessed moment.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 115%;">links: <a href=";>https://www.dmagazine.com/food-drink/2026/09/jimmys-food-store-italian-favorites/</a></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 115%;"> <a href=";
<div class="by-line"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></div><div class="by-line"><span style="font-size: small;">© written and photographed by <a href=" Cevola</a></span><span style="font-size: small;"> - no AI was harmed in the making of this post - limited rights reserved <a href=" the Wine Trail in Italy</a></span> </div>
<div style="color: white;">
wine blog + Italian wine blog + Italy W</div>
2026/09/drinking-without-dogma-writing-without.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Alfonso Cevola)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20283310.post-4987774626018613383Sun, 20 Sep 2026 16:01:20 +00002026-09-26T06:22:55.392-05:00Choosing Your Hill - Bric by Bric<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 24pt; line-height: 115%;"><a href="; style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="861" data-original-width="1530" height="212" src="; width="376" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 24pt; line-height: 115%;">S</span><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 115%;">o much of what we’re enveloped in lately seems to
be a battle over where to plant one’s flag. There is such an overabundance of information
pulling us one way or another. I’m not just talking about the wine world, which
has it share of battles, but the overall sphere of experience and existence. It
just feels like everyone is itching for a fight. Which hill are you willing to
die on?<span><a name='more'></a></span></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 115%;">When Giotto revolutionized the world with his take on perspective,
the established art milieu didn’t swoon, it gasped. They had never seen
pictures in that light with those angels and in the foreshortened view he was championing.
</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 115%;">And then, the art (and the nonsecular) world took notice and
saw that this development would enhance its causes and present new opportunities
to tell stories, to bring more souls into the fold and voilà, the world didn’t end.
It just pivoted and moved on.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 115%;">When I was a university student in Silicon Valley, teachers alerted
me to the revolution of information that we were in, and the abyss we might be
staring into. A Zen-like koan that moved through the circles I inhabited in
California in those years went something like this: “Nothing above me, nothing
below me, so I leap off.” So many of the popular thought leaders of the time,
from Alan Watts to Bucky Fuller, jammed us into the small Mission church at
Santa Clara and fed us with their ideas and words. Nearby Stanford and Berkeley
added to the foment of the times with the never-ending mantra of “change,
change, change.” Writers like Marshall McCluhan, Robert de Ropp, Hunter Thompson
and Alvin Toffler crammed our unformed brains with notions of fundamental
shifts in the world we came up in, with no end in sight to the convulsions we
would face in a lifetime. A lifetime later, they were prescient in that, indeed,
a lot of shit went down. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 115%;"><a href="; style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="378" data-original-width="567" height="255" src="; width="384" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 115%;"><br />Back to that hill.</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 115%;">In the 20 years I have been writing on this blog, I’ve covered
a lot of territory with regard to Italian wine. So much so, in fact, I often refer
back to what I wrote years ago, as I have forgotten it. That too much
information thing, with limited storage in a repository that is shrinking daily
and heading off the cliff, eventually. I’m not ready to leap, nothing to worry
about there. But I have thought about the many perturbations that are incurring
the ire of those in wine writing circles. It seems like folks are planting
their flag every day on a new hill to die upon. And like groundhog day, the
next week or month, they’re back up and running, full mast in arms, ready to do
battle again. Cue the bugles!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It’s
gotten a little like wrestling - which is real and which is simply more of the
performative slop we are exposed to in the wine world and the greater beyond? </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 8.0pt; margin-left: 1.0in; margin-right: 1.0in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 1in 8pt; tab-stops: 387.0pt;"><i></i></p><blockquote><i><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 115%;">“During this lamentable period, a
new industry arose which contributed not a little to confirm stupidity in its
faith and to ruin whatever might remain of the divine in the French mind. The
idolatrous mob demanded an ideal worthy of itself and appropriate to its
nature—that is perfectly understood."</span></i></blockquote><p></p><xml><p class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 387.0pt;"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 115%;">Written in 1859 by poet and
essayist, Charles Baudelaire, about photography and it’s incursion into the art
world, it could as easily refer to AI in these times and the concern people
have with it’s ability to usurp the established norms so many have grown
comfortable with. But as my teachers repeated, over and over, 50 years ago, the
curtain long ago was pulled back, and not only are we not in Kansas anymore,
but this Brave New World is the de facto default world now. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 387.0pt;"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 115%;">Which hill will I choose to die
on? Well, it ain’t on the natural wine hill. Or the over-barriqued one. It
isn’t the “AI isn’t real” one. It’s real. And right now, to many folks it’s
real scary. But do I worry about an LLM taking my writing gig from me? I do
not. And an LLM isn’t going to harvest the 50 lbs. of Hoja Santa ready to
harvest in my back yard, pesticide-free by the way (*cueing up virtue
signaling*). As far as photography goes, I do find some of the LLMs to be
interesting adjuncts to digital photography, much in the way all my darkroom
tools helped me when I printed analog photos. And yes, like selenium toner and dodging
tools, too much of anything can spoil the final result. In the end, from my perspective,
what one creates, whether it is with augmentation or not, must be judged on the
quality of the final product. Now, if the judges cannot tell if something,
written or produced, is natural or made for the masses by the masses, that
might be a hill worthy of a fight, for someone. But that isn’t my fight. Or so
my little dog Rocco informs me, as he pulls me out the door with his leash for
another walk around the block. </span></p><div style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border: medium; mso-border-bottom-alt: solid windowtext .75pt; mso-element: para-border-div; padding: 0in 0in 1pt;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="; style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="516" data-original-width="777" height="252" src="; width="379" /></a></div><br /><p></p>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 387.0pt;"><i><u><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 115%;">Today’s lagniappe of sorts.</span></u></i></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 387.0pt;"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 115%;">I am the grocery shopper in the
house, for the humans. One of my stops is the nearby Aldi, which is small and
one can get in and out of quickly. During my last stop there I came upon a 2025
Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc for $5.99 and I had to try it. I like SB and with
the temps here hovering in the 100°F for weeks now, a crisp, cool white always
sounds good. I took this home, put a real good chill on it and let ‘er rip. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 387.0pt;"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 115%;">What I found was a relatively well-made
wine – fresh, not sweet, but with a good layer of fruit. Dry – yes. Spicy? Un
po. Decent balance, texture was not bad for a $6 wine. Nothing odd or
off-putting in the finish. Not great, but I’ve been spoiled lately by a
Verdicchio I have been enjoying and contemplating as my much more affordable
(at $25 – 4 times the price of the Napa Valley SB) alternative to the Puligny-Montrachet
I can no longer access because it is now 8x the cost of that Verdicchio (and
33x that of the NP SB, but now we’re into “apples and oranges” territory). </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 387.0pt;"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 115%;">The good news? That NP SB for
$5.99 is years better than the SB’s from Napa Valley when I was selling them in
the late ‘80s-early ‘90s. So, that is progress, of a sort. My question is: How
in hell did it go through all the channels to arrive at my local Aldi for
$5.99? If we be slouching towards Bethlehem, what does this mean?</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 387.0pt;"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></p><div style="text-align: center;"><a href=" border="0" data-original-height="682" data-original-width="1024" height="266" src="; width="400" /></a></div><br /><p></p><br />
<div class="by-line"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></div><div class="by-line"><span style="font-size: small;">© written and photographed by <a href=" Cevola</a></span><span style="font-size: small;"> limited rights reserved <a href=" the Wine Trail in Italy</a></span> </div>
<div style="color: white;">
wine blog + Italian wine blog + Italy W</div>
</xml>2026/09/choosing-your-hill.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Alfonso Cevola)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20283310.post-5921377903909165130Sun, 13 Sep 2026 18:33:10 +00002026-09-13T14:04:56.949-05:00What the Next Ten Years Actually Held<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 16pt;"><i><span style="font-family: "Georgia", serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">redoing a <a href="2025/10/ten-years-after-what-i-got-right-and.html" target="_blank">2025 blog post </a>over a 2016 set of <a href="2016/01/what-will-next-ten-years-hold-for.html" target="_blank">guesses about Italian wine in America</a> </span></span></i></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-family: "Georgia", serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="; style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1024" height="400" src="; width="400" /></a></span></span></i></div><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 9.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: .75in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 0.75in 9pt 0in; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: x-large;">T</span><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;">en years ago this past January I sat down and made a list of
guesses about <a href="2016/01/what-will-next-ten-years-hold-for.html" target="_blank">where Italian wine in America was going</a>. I hedged at the top, the
way one might:</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 11.0pt; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: .75in; margin-top: 3.0pt; margin: 3pt 0.75in 11pt 0.5in; text-align: left;"><i><span style="color: #0070c0; font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;">Looking back is so much easier than
this. But the past is dust. So where are we going? All I have are some educated
guesses. Maybe not predictions, but inklings from the tea leaves.</span></i><span style="color: #0070c0; font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 9.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: .75in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 0.75in 9pt 0in; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;">The past is indeed dust and the tea leaves have all dried out. Here is
the scorecard.</span><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;"><span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 8.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 16.0pt; margin: 16pt 0in 8pt;"><b><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;"></span></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;"><a href="; style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1024" height="400" src="; width="400" /></a></span></b></div><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 8.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 16.0pt; margin: 16pt 0in 8pt; text-align: left;"><b><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;">What
I got right</span></b><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 9.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: .75in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 0.75in 9pt 0in; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;">Private label. Here I was right and, if anything,
conservative:</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 11.0pt; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: .75in; margin-top: 3.0pt; margin: 3pt 0.75in 11pt 0.5in; text-align: left;"><i><span style="color: #0070c0; font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;">There will be more of this, already
is. Big huge wave of wine. Like I said, from national chains to one man
pizzerias.</span></i><span style="color: #0070c0; font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 9.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: .75in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 0.75in 9pt 0in; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;">The sourcing desks inside the big houses only got bigger, and
the wineries in Italy who do nothing else are still spending August on the
beach.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 9.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: .75in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 0.75in 9pt 0in; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;">Barolo. The Burgundization call was the easiest one on the
list and it still came in higher than I imagined:</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 11.0pt; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: .75in; margin-top: 3.0pt; margin: 3pt 0.75in 11pt 0.5in; text-align: left;"><i><span style="color: #0070c0; font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;">So kiss affordable Barolo (and
Barbaresco goodbye). In the meantime, look for the wines from the Alta Langa,
from Carema, Boca, Ghemme, Gattinara, Sizzano and from the Valtellina.</span></i><span style="color: #0070c0; font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 9.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: .75in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 0.75in 9pt 0in; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;">A hectare of Barolo DOCG now runs up to two million euros, the
most expensive vineyard land in Italy, with Brunello and Bolgheri around one
million. And that consolation list is no longer a consolation. It is where the
sommeliers who cannot afford Barolo actually shop.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 9.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: .75in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 0.75in 9pt 0in; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;">The sommeliers. I handed them a chore:</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 11.0pt; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: .75in; margin-top: 3.0pt; margin: 3pt 0.75in 11pt 0.5in; text-align: left;"><i><span style="color: #0070c0; font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;">So when you are finished with your
“high-fiving” and posting all your incredible pictures of 1965 Cappellano
Barolo to your Instagram account, let’s try and figure out how to get normal
people to drink something Italian beyond the Big Four (Chianti, Pinot Grigio,
Prosecco and Moscato).</span></i><span style="color: #0070c0; font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 9.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: .75in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 0.75in 9pt 0in; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;">The chore is still there. Prosecco is now the best-selling
Italian wine in America, close to 40 percent of everything we sell here, and
the Prosecco denominations together account for 31 percent of the value of all
Italian wine consumed in the United States. The young lions are still tilting
at windmills. The Big Four still carry the freight.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 9.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: .75in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 0.75in 9pt 0in; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;">Wine blogging. I gave it a metaphor I now find a bit
disconcerting:</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 11.0pt; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: .75in; margin-top: 3.0pt; margin: 3pt 0.75in 11pt 0.5in; text-align: left;"><i><span style="color: #0070c0; font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;">But like a chicken running around
after its head is cut off, it ain’t over until the poor thing stops moving.</span></i><span style="color: #0070c0; font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 9.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: .75in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 0.75in 9pt 0in; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;">Then, almost as an afterthought, I put it another way and got
closer than I knew:</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 11.0pt; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: .75in; margin-top: 3.0pt; margin: 3pt 0.75in 11pt 0.5in; text-align: left;"><i><span style="color: #0070c0; font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;">It’s like we’re driving around in a
Model T, waiting for the next model.</span></i><span style="color: #0070c0; font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;"></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 9.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: .75in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 0.75in 9pt 0in; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;">The next model was Substack, and it took most of the decade to
show up. The chicken kept twitching the whole time. HoseMaster of Wine™ up and quit in June of 2019, seven years before any of it resolved. And what it
resolved into was the same people doing the same thing behind a paywall.</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;"><a href="; style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1024" height="400" src="; width="400" /></a></span></b></div><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 8.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 16.0pt; margin: 16pt 0in 8pt; text-align: left;"><b><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;">Half
right</span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 9.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: .75in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 0.75in 9pt 0in; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;">Delectable. I hedged this one — morph or die — and got a third
thing:</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 11.0pt; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: .75in; margin-top: 3.0pt; margin: 3pt 0.75in 11pt 0.5in; text-align: left;"><i><span style="color: #0070c0; font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;">In order to provide some return (for
the investors, as well as the users) Delectable will morph (or die) into an
online selling tool, which is the direction it has been heading.</span></i><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 9.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: .75in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 0.75in 9pt 0in; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;">Antonio Galloni’s Vinous bought Delectable and its sister app
Banquet in December 2016, eleven months after the post, reportedly at a
fire-sale price. Banquet was the online selling tool, and Banquet is the part
that actually failed — it never produced the revenue to keep the company
independent, and after layoffs it went looking for a buyer. Delectable itself
is still running. It went pay-to-play under Vinous, the database stopped
keeping pace, and it is no longer what anyone means when they say wine app. Vivino
won on sheer scale. So the app did not morph and it did not die. It got
absorbed, which was not on my list of outcomes.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 9.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: .75in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 0.75in 9pt 0in; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;">SevenFifty. I was right about the tool and wrong about its
independence. I wrote that I was putting my money on it as a bridge between the
three-tier system and the newer ways of communication. Provi acquired
SevenFifty in January 2022. SevenFifty Daily is now a Provi publication, and it
absorbed Beverage Media and Beverage Journal after their New York, New Jersey
and Florida print editions folded in December 2025. The platform that was going
to bridge the tiers got bought by the bigger platform. That is the whole decade
in one sentence.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 9.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: .75in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 0.75in 9pt 0in; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;">Dalla Terra. The model still works. Almost nobody copied it. I
wrote that I did not know why more importers had not adapted it, and ten years
later I still do not.</span><b><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;"> </span></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;"><a href="; style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1024" height="400" src="; width="400" /></a></span></b></div><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 8.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 16.0pt; margin: 16pt 0in 8pt; text-align: left;"><b><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;">Wrong</span></b><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 9.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: .75in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 0.75in 9pt 0in; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;">Etna. This is the one I would most like back:</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 11.0pt; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: .75in; margin-top: 3.0pt; margin: 3pt 0.75in 11pt 0.5in; text-align: left;"><i><span style="color: #0070c0; font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;">Good lord, we’re going to beat this
one with a stick. But we won’t kill it. Namely, because the region is so hard
to get to … the trend followers will gravitate to other places, leaving these
wines to the Sicilians the Italians, and to those of us who love the stuff,
long before fashion dictated that we should.</span></i><span style="color: #0070c0; font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 9.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: .75in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 0.75in 9pt 0in; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;">Dead wrong. A hectare on Etna runs 150,000 to 250,000 euros
against 20,000 to 25,000 elsewhere in Sicily, ten times more, and nearly every
serious Sicilian and mainland producer has bought a piece of the volcano.
Difficulty of access turned out to be a feature. The fetish became
infrastructure.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 9.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: .75in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 0.75in 9pt 0in; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;">The mid-size distributor. Right about consolidation, wrong
about the direction it came from:</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 11.0pt; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: .75in; margin-top: 3.0pt; margin: 3pt 0.75in 11pt 0.5in; text-align: left;"><i><span style="color: #0070c0; font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;">There just isn’t enough money to
sustain distribution at small or medium scales.</span></i><span style="color: #0070c0; font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 9.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: .75in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 0.75in 9pt 0in; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;">It was not the middle that broke. RNDC, the second-largest
wine and spirits distributor in the country, began unraveling in 2025 after
Tito’s left for Reyes and a supplier exodus followed. It exited California,
then sold markets off to Reyes, Martignetti and Columbia. The regionals I had
written off ate the giant.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 9.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: .75in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 0.75in 9pt 0in; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;">Franciacorta. I said it was time. It was not. And for the
record:</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 11.0pt; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: .75in; margin-top: 3.0pt; margin: 3pt 0.75in 11pt 0.5in; text-align: left;"><i><span style="color: #0070c0; font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;">If you see a Franciacorta at Trader
Joe’s for $12.99, you might as well head for your back-country compound.
Armageddon will be near.</span></i><span style="color: #0070c0; font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;"></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 9.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: .75in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 0.75in 9pt 0in; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;">Armageddon arrived on schedule anyway, from a different
direction entirely.</span><b><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;"></span></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-family: "Georgia",serif; font-size: 16pt;"><a href="; style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1024" height="400" src="; width="400" /></a></span></b></div><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 8.0pt; margin-left: 0in; m